What do you all do first?
- Thread starter Briony
- Start date
Grendel
Suspended / Banned
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- 9,005
- Name
- Paul
- Edit My Images
- No
My usual process is as follows:
Open the RAW file and adjust white balance and exposure.
Open the file into Photoshop at 300dpi
Crop if needed.
Adjust Levels (if necessary).
In curves - Add an 'S' Curve to bring out the contrast in the image. I usually start with the preset Linear Curve and tweak from there.
Increase saturation to between +6 and +12, depending on the image.
(the above done using adjustment layers).
At that point I save the Photoshop file with all layers intact so I can always go back to that point to adjust if necessary.
Flatten layers.
Sharpen using the high pass filter method.
Add a border / frame and my signature.
Save as a TIFF file - my hi resolution version.
Reduce to 72 dpi 800 pixels
Sharpen again using USM at 30, 0.3-0.5, 0
Save as JPG - my lo resolution version for forum posting / screen viewing etc.
Open the RAW file and adjust white balance and exposure.
Open the file into Photoshop at 300dpi
Crop if needed.
Adjust Levels (if necessary).
In curves - Add an 'S' Curve to bring out the contrast in the image. I usually start with the preset Linear Curve and tweak from there.
Increase saturation to between +6 and +12, depending on the image.
(the above done using adjustment layers).
At that point I save the Photoshop file with all layers intact so I can always go back to that point to adjust if necessary.
Flatten layers.
Sharpen using the high pass filter method.
Add a border / frame and my signature.
Save as a TIFF file - my hi resolution version.
Reduce to 72 dpi 800 pixels
Sharpen again using USM at 30, 0.3-0.5, 0
Save as JPG - my lo resolution version for forum posting / screen viewing etc.
GrittyShaker
Suspended / Banned
- Messages
- 1,424
- Name
- Scott
- Edit My Images
- Yes
It varies for me, depending on the photo.
Cropping would be first on my list, if it needs it. Then probably white balance, again, if it needs it.
Then brightness, contrast, saturation.
Noise reduction, if required.
Sharpening should be last on everyone's list.
Cropping would be first on my list, if it needs it. Then probably white balance, again, if it needs it.
Then brightness, contrast, saturation.
Noise reduction, if required.
Sharpening should be last on everyone's list.
Well, I'm no expert at all, but this is my workflow:
Upload pics in Lightroom (usually all raw) and copy to external drive. I make a copy before I do anything else, I have one dump drive where all pics are on (even ones that get deleted later on).
I then do a first screening and delete all pics that are useless (motion blur, wrong exposure, ...).
The I go through them one by one again, and adjust for exposure, lighting, colour, WB, etc...
I develop them into a tiff file.
In PSE I go through them yet again and do smoothing, stamping, any other adjustments I want done. Finally, I do a crop if needed.
These are copied on my "good pics" external drive.
Lots of tedious work, and I assume some of the more pros will have a better workflow, but this is my way of making sure I always retain the original pics and have plenty of backup.
I only format my memory card after the second back up.
Upload pics in Lightroom (usually all raw) and copy to external drive. I make a copy before I do anything else, I have one dump drive where all pics are on (even ones that get deleted later on).
I then do a first screening and delete all pics that are useless (motion blur, wrong exposure, ...).
The I go through them one by one again, and adjust for exposure, lighting, colour, WB, etc...
I develop them into a tiff file.
In PSE I go through them yet again and do smoothing, stamping, any other adjustments I want done. Finally, I do a crop if needed.
These are copied on my "good pics" external drive.
Lots of tedious work, and I assume some of the more pros will have a better workflow, but this is my way of making sure I always retain the original pics and have plenty of backup.
I only format my memory card after the second back up.
- Messages
- 49,339
- Name
- Nod (UK)
- Edit My Images
- Yes
Copy to computer HDD, copy to 2 external HDDs and make final CD/DVD backup.
Open in PS(E) and use the grid overlay to check horizon's level. Crop of rotate to straighten horizon if necessary.
Zoom in to 100% and check for anything that needs cloning out - from dust bunnies to unwanted things in frame.
Faff with levels if necessary (picture at full screen).
Save at full size as a "corrected master".
Resize as wanted.
Sharpen to suit final use.
Save as edited copy, usually with the size as part of the file name, or in a folder called "Subject9x6prints" or similar. (leave this step out if the print's likely to be a one off - I've always got the master copy to resize and sharpen if necessary)
Print or upload to FlickR or other hosting site.
Open in PS(E) and use the grid overlay to check horizon's level. Crop of rotate to straighten horizon if necessary.
Zoom in to 100% and check for anything that needs cloning out - from dust bunnies to unwanted things in frame.
Faff with levels if necessary (picture at full screen).
Save at full size as a "corrected master".
Resize as wanted.
Sharpen to suit final use.
Save as edited copy, usually with the size as part of the file name, or in a folder called "Subject9x6prints" or similar. (leave this step out if the print's likely to be a one off - I've always got the master copy to resize and sharpen if necessary)
Print or upload to FlickR or other hosting site.
trencheel303
Suspended / Banned
- Messages
- 4,888
- Edit My Images
- No
generally i plug the memory card in, and from there in Canon DPP I...
adjust exposure, contrast, colour tone, colour saturation, white balance, NR if needed and RAW sharpness. I will also crop them if needed. Then I'll usually output the ones I want into JPEGs at 1024 pixels on the long end. Then the same again at 620 pixels on the long end, this time into TIFFs. I then add borders using Irfanview (phatch would make this a little easier but sods law it doesn't like DPP TIFFs...) and finally save as JPEG. I only need to sharpen once because the final sized image that DPP puts out is sharpened and doesn't get resized again.
I haven't found out how to make rotations in DPP so if I have a wonky picture I alter the process slightly, I make my alterations, output it as a TIFF, rotate it to correct the wonky horizon in Irfanview, crop the corners, then save it again, fine tune it again in DPP and output to 620 pix. TIFFs and add borders.
It's a bit of an odd workflow that is always subject to change but it works for me and quality loss is still minimal as only the final product becomes a JPEG. The small bordered images are for internet/email use and the larger ones are for when I want to view them on the computer. If I have taken a photo of a newspaper or something I will also output a large image so it is possible to zoom in and read the words.
I committ all changes I have made to my RAWs in DPP (shock, horror, gasp!) and then copy them off the memory card onto the computer. Job done, 100 photos will take me an evening's work if I'm determined, but I often spread it over a few evenings.
adjust exposure, contrast, colour tone, colour saturation, white balance, NR if needed and RAW sharpness. I will also crop them if needed. Then I'll usually output the ones I want into JPEGs at 1024 pixels on the long end. Then the same again at 620 pixels on the long end, this time into TIFFs. I then add borders using Irfanview (phatch would make this a little easier but sods law it doesn't like DPP TIFFs...) and finally save as JPEG. I only need to sharpen once because the final sized image that DPP puts out is sharpened and doesn't get resized again.
I haven't found out how to make rotations in DPP so if I have a wonky picture I alter the process slightly, I make my alterations, output it as a TIFF, rotate it to correct the wonky horizon in Irfanview, crop the corners, then save it again, fine tune it again in DPP and output to 620 pix. TIFFs and add borders.
It's a bit of an odd workflow that is always subject to change but it works for me and quality loss is still minimal as only the final product becomes a JPEG. The small bordered images are for internet/email use and the larger ones are for when I want to view them on the computer. If I have taken a photo of a newspaper or something I will also output a large image so it is possible to zoom in and read the words.
I committ all changes I have made to my RAWs in DPP (shock, horror, gasp!) and then copy them off the memory card onto the computer. Job done, 100 photos will take me an evening's work if I'm determined, but I often spread it over a few evenings.
Fuuudge
Suspended / Banned
- Messages
- 706
- Name
- Craig
- Edit My Images
- Yes
Open in Camera RAW
Make sure WB is correct or tweak to my liking
Adjust levels
Set picture control
Crop if needed
Adjust blacks/Fill light/Recovery if needed
Open file into Ps
If landsacpe shot I then create layermasks for 50% brightness and one of the inverted selection
Adjust curves for these two layer masks
Flatten image
Sharpen with the unsharp mask while images are in LAB colour mode
Resize and save
If I like the image and will most likely be going back to edit it I will save the image as a PSD before I flatten the image. This way it's easier to go back and tinker with.
Make sure WB is correct or tweak to my liking
Adjust levels
Set picture control
Crop if needed
Adjust blacks/Fill light/Recovery if needed
Open file into Ps
If landsacpe shot I then create layermasks for 50% brightness and one of the inverted selection
Adjust curves for these two layer masks
Flatten image
Sharpen with the unsharp mask while images are in LAB colour mode
Resize and save
If I like the image and will most likely be going back to edit it I will save the image as a PSD before I flatten the image. This way it's easier to go back and tinker with.
Very much depends on the subject!
Generally if it's a wedding it's backed up before I do anything. Then I sort out the various phases of the day sort out WB, crop if I need to and then I'll pick out ones I really want to work on. They are the ones that get all sorts of stuff done to them and again it's very image dependant.
The recent boudoir ones got the liquify treatment followed by sorting the lighting a little using a Kubota digital fill flash and then some Nik filters and saved as TIFF for me printing and JPEG for my blog.
Generally if it's a wedding it's backed up before I do anything. Then I sort out the various phases of the day sort out WB, crop if I need to and then I'll pick out ones I really want to work on. They are the ones that get all sorts of stuff done to them and again it's very image dependant.
The recent boudoir ones got the liquify treatment followed by sorting the lighting a little using a Kubota digital fill flash and then some Nik filters and saved as TIFF for me printing and JPEG for my blog.
RacingSnake
Suspended / Banned
- Messages
- 1,653
- Name
- Gavin
- Edit My Images
- Yes
there are some pretty advanced techniques on here! I assume only come with practice.
my (v. basic) pp consists of:
I've found trial and error is the best way to understand the functions in the application
my (v. basic) pp consists of:
- Image in JPG from camera
- Open in Fireworks
- Resize if need be
- Magic wand select shape (or draw carefully with the lasso tool)
- Contract (or expand) the selection by 1 or 2 pixels to try to avoid ghosting.
- Adjust Levels RGB
and/or - Review saturation and Hue if need be
and/or - Adjust brightness/contrast
- Unsharp mask (usually for birds around 1 pixel, 150%)
- Flatten
I've found trial and error is the best way to understand the functions in the application