Wet Plate Collodion

Pookeyhead

Pookeyhead

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I've been re familiarising myself with Ambrotypes and Tintypes this week.. all part of a project I'm doing with students.

I'll post up some results when the plates are varnished. I have to say... it was refreshing to go back to a process where some luck and randomness enters the equation :)
 
As a collodion photographer, looking forward to the results.

Mart
 
Look forward to seeing them.

I love the look and feel of alternative processes. I had my first try at lith printing at my evening class and really want to explore other methods.
 
Tintypes are buff, chemicals are a bit scary though.


joxby said:
aggressive ?

shoot Tintypes, you gets to play with.........Cyanide.....:D


I've posted it before but its great vid, its a slow loader but worth it, tintypes are fablious..

click The Process
Click to expand...
 
Ok.. here're the first tintypes in over 20 years. A group effort with students really.


jMfjEG6.jpg


k60yrbA.jpg
 
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They are beautiful..... haunting and ethereal.

Hope we get to do this process as part of my evening class
 
It's that gaze caused by having such a long exposure, and the orthochromatic nature of the emulsion...

I've got my pouring technique better since I did these... but these were the only ones varnished in time.

These were 10 seconds wide open (f5.6) with a 1KW tungsten spot, and 2x 1500 flash heads with 2 flashes during the 10 seconds. We used a head clamp for the sitters.

The emulsion works out at ISO 7 :)


Didn't use potassium cyanide for fix.... just too many H&S regulations to stop that happening in college. Fixed in hypo.
 
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Fantastic look to these, I'm not sure how 21st century folk would take to headclamps though :lol:
 
Pookeyhead said:
These were 10 seconds wide open (f5.6) with a 1KW tungsten spot, and 2x 1500 flash heads with 2 flashes during the 10 seconds. We used a head clamp for the sitters.

The emulsion works out at ISO 7 :)
Click to expand...


The first one isn't too bad because he's further away but the second one really shows your problems with low sensitivity and light levels.
The guy in the video was shooting outside, in the shade but still outside with a 4 sec exposure, dunno the app but dof suggests it was mebbe a stop smaller than 5.6.
Seems like you put enough light on the thing, so I'm wondering if there are differences in the silver nitrate mix or something, for you to be stuck wide open @ 10sec ?
 
What collodion and developer are you using?

Comparing iso with film does not tend to work, too many variables, like temperature, how old the collodion is, what the UV light levels are, etc, etc.

The oysters around the edge are usually caused by a contaminated plate holder.
Having said all that they are still good plates.
Quick tip, scan before you varnish, its a lot easier.

Mart
 
joxby said:
Seems like you put enough light on the thing, so I'm wondering if there are differences in the silver nitrate mix or something, for you to be stuck wide open @ 10sec ?
Click to expand...

It's a UV thing. You'll always get shorter exposures in daylight. We did some daylight ones too, which were about 4 seconds with teh same nitrate mix/bath.. but the development was rough.




Marvin d martian said:
What collodion and developer are you using?
Click to expand...


Dev was

15g ferrous sulphate
400g water
20ml acetic acid
15ml alcohol

Fresh mix each session, at 20 degrees.

15 secs development.


Don't have notes for the collodion on me.


Marvin d martian said:
The oysters around the edge are usually caused by a contaminated plate holder.
Having said all that they are still good plates.
Quick tip, scan before you varnish, its a lot easier.

Mart
Click to expand...

I like the oysters :) If this gets too perfect, it kind of ruins it for me. You're probably right though. We cannibalised an old 5x4 film holder, and made no attempt to clean it :)
 
Pookeyhead said:
I've been re familiarising myself with Ambrotypes and Tintypes this week.. all part of a project I'm doing with students.

I'll post up some results when the plates are varnished. I have to say... it was refreshing to go back to a process where some luck and randomness enters the equation :)
Click to expand...

Great results!
 
Nice job, I kind of like oysters as well.
I've been using a vinegar based developer of late and its working well. Don't get much chance to use lights, so tend to rely on outdoor work myself.
Here's a couple of 5x7's on black plexi

8447311668_14b99e87c9_c.jpg
[/url] wet032 by Marvin d martian100, on Flickr[/IMG]

8447311612_2d60a575fb_c.jpg
[/url] wet020 by Marvin d martian100, on Flickr[/IMG]

Mart
 
I love these, the images are just so captivating. I need to try it. Is there an idiots guide anywhere?
 
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Absolutely stunning and probably my favourite 'look' in any type of photography.

Andy
 
Martin,

That portrait is simply stunning....how did you get it so sharp (I assume a longish exposure was needed...but no movement blur?)

I love the oyster bits - great descriptive term for them. They add a certain authenticity and honesty to a picture, as well as being a great artistic border.

No doubt there is an 'app' somewhere to add oyster effects to digital photos.... shudder.
 
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Sorry if I've hijacked the thread :(

Steve, that was a 3 second exposure in good sunlight, pretty easy to keep it all sharp, anything over 5 sec's and a head rest is almost always needed.

Mart
 
treeman said:
You all might be interested in this video I saw a while back, a studio photographer offering Tintype portraits. Absolutely love the feel of these shots, really wishing I hadn't got rid of all my 5x4 gear!

Video http://vimeo.com/41710130
Click to expand...

Great share. Enjoyed watching that
 
I'm definitely going to attend a John Brewer workshop later this year.

Would be interesting to see a portrait taken using this method entered into forum POTY competition.
 
Pookeyhead said:
It's a UV thing. You'll always get shorter exposures in daylight. We did some daylight ones too, which were about 4 seconds with teh same nitrate mix/bath.. but the development was rough.
Click to expand...


Handy to know..

Whatever, I dunno if we are conditioned to accept what old pictures are supposed to look like, or that they just have a unique quality that is difficult to describe.
Out of all the "alternative" processes, I find Tinotypes the most alluring..:thumbs:
 
These really are crackers. I don't think you could get this from software, or am I wrong? I guess that may not be an issue for you, the physical process I would imagine to be really rewarding.

Cheers.
 
posiview said:
...I don't think you could get this from software, or am I wrong? I guess that may not be an issue for you, the physical process I would imagine to be really rewarding.

Cheers.
Click to expand...

For me the process would play such a large part of making pictures like this, doing it via software would completely remove the process, a bit like using hideous PS plug-ins to make a shot look like an oil painting :puke:
 
The main difference why any sort of PP can never replace collodion photographs is simple, they are a one off physical thing. They are much better to look at in the flesh, scans just don't do them service at all. There is a feel and a smell to them (lavender varnish) that cant be replaced with pixels.

Mart
 
posiview said:
These really are crackers. I don't think you could get this from software, or am I wrong? I guess that may not be an issue for you, the physical process I would imagine to be really rewarding.

Cheers.
Click to expand...

I doubt you could really get the same effect in software.... nor want to. It's the production of the plate that makes this such a great thing to do. From each one having your thumbprint on it when you test when the collodion is ready to sensitise, to the individual nature of each plate. The smell, the feel, the experience... Give it a go.. find someone running a workshop.
 
Right.... bored of 5x4 already... I'm pulling out the big guns. 10x8 on the way :) Watch this space.
 
Cool, if you are like me you will find it easier to pour a plate at 5x7 or bigger than at 4x5.
Just finishing my 10x12 ready for the sun to come out and also my whole plate.

Mart
 
you guys are no good for my wallet :)
 
Pookeyhead said:
I doubt you could really get the same effect in software.... nor want to. It's the production of the plate that makes this such a great thing to do. From each one having your thumbprint on it when you test when the collodion is ready to sensitise, to the individual nature of each plate. The smell, the feel, the experience... Give it a go.. find someone running a workshop.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I think you're right. Getting down and dirty would appeal to me. Might have a look and see if I can find any workshops.

Cheers and looking forward to more.
 
posiview said:
Yeah, I think you're right. Getting down and dirty would appeal to me. Might have a look and see if I can find any workshops.

Cheers and looking forward to more.
Click to expand...

Just been looking for a course myself, the whole process looks fascinating, I'd really like to give it a try.
 
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