welding glass??

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hi all.

have tried to take a photo with welding glass today and it keepscoming out green. I have used a "green" picture to preset my white balance but no joy!!!
What am I doing wrong?

thanks all.
 
I think the Nikon system isn't as straightforward as the Canon to change wb from a picture, I'm sure a Nikon user will give you some tips soon. You could just correct it in software if you are shooting in raw until someone does help out.
 
hi all.
thanks to everyone so far.
have used nikon's viewnx to try to sort out the green tint but if I use the calculate auto tab it still leaves a very slight green tint.
is there a way to sort this out?

better still in camera someone??
 
Do a custom white balance (see handbook) with the filter on, pointing at a plain white sheet of paper. Use that as your reference image to set WB. Should be very close to perfect.

Don't forget to cover the viewfinder.
 
Sorry If my tutorial wasn't of use to you, especially since I was writing it with experience from a Nikon, please feel free to post on my tutorial with your guide to help out all those Nikon users, if there is any? lol
 
hi jamie.

I followed your post and 99% works for me, but its just the setting of the wb against a picture already in camera. couldn't get it to work. Probably me rather than your instructions. haven't had the camera long.
If you have any ideas why the camera isn't using the custom setting I would love to know what has gone wrong.

Ben.
 
hi there Lee.

I do but not really sure how to use it yet. it is cs4 plus lightroom 2.6 and viewnx.

will try your method tommorow and see what happens.

thanks for the help.
 
Only thing I can suggest is what others have mentioned, using a white peice of paper to set your WB.
As for the memory of the WB I'm not too sure, I know that my camera (5D) can store the custom WB indefinately untill I manually change it myself, others may need to set it each time they use it?
 
hi lee.

one green pic!!! subject matter is rubbish but all i'm doing is playing to get it right....
DSC_0007800x531.jpg
 
A photo of a green bush and green lawn :P That's going to be a trick one just knowing how much green is supposed to be there :lol:

Someone better than me at PS should be able to help you though :)
 
here's a quick and dirty convert on the shot i've done...



I just took my welding shot w/b reference shot, applied a curves negative conversion to it, then copied the negative image and pasted it as a overlay over the shot you gave me. I then changed the blending mode to overlay, and it came out as above... not perfect, but then it's the calibration for my camera, my welding glass...
 
As he mentioned it's only a test shot just before he uses it properly.
And I also found getting the camera to WB for me made the photos soo much better than any edit could produce, so definatly try to sort it out with the cameras WB first :)
 
I bought mine just before Christmas, tried it out the window, resolved my green tint issue with the Custom WB. Wrote a tutorial to help others and I've never used it since.

I've taken three photos withit :lol:
 
On ebay they are £1.90 buy it now from a popular seller called DarkMutton. But there's a MakeAnOffer part on there and he accepts £1.10. So make an offer and get one at an 1/80th of the B+W one's.

So Welding Glass = £1 with some green cast
B+W 10-stop filter = £80 with no green cast :P
I know which i'd prefer.

And if you buy a scale10 welding glass filter from ebay :D thats the one most have gone for including myself.
 
Just wondering, I bought a cheapy 8 stop ND off fleabay for £7.50, not had a chance to use it yet.

Or was it a x8 ND, which is three stops. Ten stops ND is x1024.
 
to be honest, a 3-4 stop filter is probably much more use than the welders special for general photography, particularly landscape stuff. The welding glass can give some great special effect type shots, but it's a very pronounced effect.
 
I have used a "green" picture to preset my white balance but no joy!!!

Was the "green" picture of something white or grey? :)

You'd need to shoot a white balance or grey card in front of the "filter" to calibrate the white balance.

Were you shooting raw so you could adjust the WB in post?
 
hi john.

the picture is grass and trees.

I am going to set the wb today using the glass in place with a sheet of white paper.
have tried using software i have but still leaves a slight green tint.

ben.
 
to be honest, a 3-4 stop filter is probably much more use than the welders special for general photography, particularly landscape stuff. The welding glass can give some great special effect type shots, but it's a very pronounced effect.

Was looking for the flat water look on lakes and foggy seas. Got an ND grad at the same time.
 
I am going to set the wb today using the glass in place with a sheet of white paper.
have tried using software i have but still leaves a slight green tint.

Yeah, grass and trees are green anyway, so you can't really white balance off those other than by manually adjusting the temperature & tint sliders in ACR/Lightroom/whatever in post (if you're shooting RAW).

You need to shoot something white or grey for it to get an accurate (or as close as the camera can get) custom white balance setting.

Chances are you won't be able to do a regular custom white balance by just pointing at your target and shooting (as you might normally), so you'll have to take a well exposed image of whatever duration you need, and then set that image as your WB reference.

If you shot JPG, there's no way you're really going to be able to remove it if the custom white balance is a little off, so make sure you're shooting RAW (or RAW+JPG if you prefer), so that you can tweak things further if need be.
 
3-4 stops is probably going to be more of a milky water on waterfalls, fast flowing rivers kind of look, rather than dead flat water, unless it's fairly low light, and your camera will do low ISO's (sub 100). If i'm going for that look, with film, i'd be looking at using 25iso film, and maybe pulling it another stop...
 
I think he's happy with a sudden influx people wanting his glass!!!
not bad at £2.50 though.
 
to be honest, a 3-4 stop filter is probably much more use than the welders special for general photography, particularly landscape stuff. The welding glass can give some great special effect type shots, but it's a very pronounced effect.

I think that's a fair comment. Of course it depends on what you want and the light.

If it's milky looking waterfalls, you can do that with about 1/4sec and on a dull day it doesn't take much of an ND filter to get that. 10-stops is far more than you need, creating its own problems along the way.

I bought a 4-stops Tiffen HT recently for doing that sort of thing, spotted it for £53 on Amazon in 77mm. I thought it might be a mistake - it's now £99! :D

Ten stops is what you need for mirror-flat seas and streaked clouds with exposures in the 10 secs and more range.

Lee have brought out a 10 stopper for £90 and it gives a blue cast. Review - http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=849668

To be fair Tim, the blue cast on the Lee Big Stopper is very slight - I found it to be less blue than the B+W is orange when I tried them both side by side at Focus show. For most purposes I think you can ignore it. It's nothing like the welding glass which is pea-soup green!

Here are another couple of options, both of which look promising. Variable LCW Fader 2-8 stops £83 in 77mm http://www.premier-ink.co.uk/photog...raft-workshop-77mm-fadernd-filter-p-2828.html And a 9-stops multicoated LCW ND500 in 77mm only for £53 http://www.premier-ink.co.uk/photog...raft-workshop-77mm-nd500mc-filter-p-2927.html Both are currently out of stock and I'm waiting for delivery of the new improved version of the Fader 2-8 stops.
 
I think he's happy with a sudden influx people wanting his glass!!!
not bad at £2.50 though.

I paid £3.50 at my local Machine Mart - choice of densities!
 
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