Welder Glass First Shot. Guidance needed.

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CraigF

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Probably a few more issues than the green.
This is my picture.
Advice appreciated.
Shot with 17-40mm L and welder glass stuck with Blu tac to a filter ring.

welder.jpg
 
Looks like some nasty flare! Was the filter in direct sunlight? Remember, actual filters have plenty of coatings to stop this happening, welding glass unfortunately, doesn't! You might want to not use it right in the sunlight, or make some kind of shade.

Also check that no light can get into the lens through gaps in the blue tack etc, as this can cause issues too!
 
Not sure but is your welding glass flat against the lens, if not maybe thats why your getting the reflection as well as flare

From your other thread whys it green

Craig next time take you first image, then use that as a custom white balance, problem solved they wont be green after that, ps dont forget to change it back after your done with the welding glass shots
 
ok..i think i know the issue.
Will got kill and old scuffed filter and glue the welder glass on to that.
Thanks
 
very surreal...bet you couldnt do that again if you tried
its natural
 
hi craig
why do you need a welders glass for a filter..if not for some effect
 
mrcrow said:
hi craig
why do you need a welders glass for a filter..if not for some effect
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He was going for an effect, but I don't think it's quite the one shown here! More of a long-exposure effect rather than a photo-obliterating flare type of effect!
 
No one has the answer yet. Your problem is light leaking in behind the filter and reflecting back off the lens onto the welding glass. Make sure you have no light leaks between the lens and welding glass and your problem will be solved ;)
 
chris321 said:
Also check that no light can get into the lens through gaps in the blue tack etc, as this can cause issues too!
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Ajophotog said:
No one has the answer yet. Your problem is light leaking in behind the filter and reflecting back off the lens onto the welding glass. Make sure you have no light leaks between the lens and welding glass and your problem will be solved ;)
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I did, honest!!! Just wondering, when you (the OP) says you used blue tack to stick the welding glass to the filter ring, did you by any chance use something like 4 blobs at the top, bottom, and sides?

I did this myself yesterday, but instead rolled the blue tack into a long thread type thing, and put it all the way around the filter ring so no light could get in, and the results were absolutely fine, so maybe give that a go!

Chris
 
Ajophotog said:
No one has the answer yet. Your problem is light leaking in behind the filter and reflecting back off the lens onto the welding glass. Make sure you have no light leaks between the lens and welding glass and your problem will be solved ;)
Click to expand...

Urm Alby

Just Dave said:
Not sure but is your welding glass flat against the lens, if not maybe thats why your getting the reflection as well as flare
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is your welding glass flat against the lens, ;)
 
Here's my setup to avoid light leaks; a cheap eBay Cokin P 58mm adaptor with a ring of blu-tak around it.

IMG_3224.JPG
 
I used the black electrical tape to tape a Cokin 77mm fliter ring onto my glass. It seems to work ok. Don't forget that light leeks through the viewfinder too, so you should use that rubber thingy that's attached to the strap to cover it up. :)
 
dougiem said:
has anyone got a link to somewhere i can buy welding glass
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Lots of people on here have bought some via ebay from a chap called DarkMutton, I've ordered some, just waiting for them to arrive :)
 
BOM said:
Lots of people on here have bought some via ebay from a chap called DarkMutton, I've ordered some, just waiting for them to arrive :)
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What does it mean by 9,10,11 or clear?
 
Kerioak said:
The 9 - 10 - 11 and clear are the degrees of darkness - 11 is darker than 10.

Do not wash the glass when it arrives - you cannot wash the "marks" off but you will wash the the little white writing with the sizes off :D I had just started washing up when the post man came so in they went - mistake!
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My welder's glass was marked 11, and it's about 14 stops.

I washed mine! After I had it cut circular to fit in an old filter ring by the local glass cutters. It was a bit of a bodged job but I've sealed it fine with Blu Tac. Payment was £2 for their Xmas box :thumbs: It was flippin filthy after that.

It's now so much easier to use, apart from the custom white balance which is a bit of a pain, but I've kept the reference image for that on my memory card, taken in normal daylight, so it's easy to just click on that to reset it.

While the optical snob in me disapproves of this thing, it actually works pretty well :)

You can buy an empty filter ring from these folks for about a fiver http://www.srb-griturn.com/index.asp
 
I don't know what this obsession is with welding glass.

I bought an ND8 filter from CameraGearUK who is a member here and offered 10% discount. Alternatively it can be bought from ebay for £7.99 inc postage (where there are also other cheap filters). It's not up to the quality of B+W, but I would imagine its a lot better than welding glass blu-tacked to an old filter and probably no more expensive.
 
err, isn't a ND8 filter only a three stop reduction! If you can find a 10 stopper for £7.99 then please tell me, but until then I'll have to keep to the welding glass (as there is no way I can afford £70 for B+W 10 stopper)
 
Hawker said:
err, isn't a ND8 filter only a three stop reduction! If you can find a 10 stopper for £7.99 then please tell me, but until then I'll have to keep to the welding glass (as there is no way I can afford £70 for B+W 10 stopper)
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Exactly, ND8 is three stops, and in the same terms, 10 stops is ND1000. 14 stops on welding glass is a filter factor of ND1600 :eek:

Put another way, 10 stops reduces 1/1000sec to 1 sec, or 1/125sec to 8secs. You need several seconds at least to get blurry clouds, and to smooth out waves in a seascape, 30secs or preferably more (you can't go too long for those). Welding glass works well for these kinds of extreme exposure times in daylight.
 
Now I understand, I didn't realise B+W did a ND1000 :bonk:

Sounds like one of those might be useful; £70 you say, may be worth looking into this welding glass :D
 
Kerioak said:
The 9 - 10 - 11 and clear are the degrees of darkness - 11 is darker than 10.

Do not wash the glass when it arrives - you cannot wash the "marks" off but you will wash the the little white writing with the sizes off :D I had just started washing up when the post man came so in they went - mistake!
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Yeah I thought that was what they meant but I'm a tad confused as to how a 'clear' welding glass works (even for welders).

Anyhoo...so the welding glass you got was marked with scuffs when it arrived? What sort of quality images are you getting from it (assuming you've already tried it). I'm going to order some when I get from Ireland on business. It's only a few quid.
 
LJR said:
Yeah I thought that was what they meant but I'm a tad confused as to how a 'clear' welding glass works (even for welders).
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Clear Welding Glass is purely for protection - some welding masks have a clear glass behind a flip-up green one - use the green one for welding, flip up and use the mask with clear glass for chipping slag away / grinding welds flat etc.
 
LJR said:
Yeah I thought that was what they meant but I'm a tad confused as to how a 'clear' welding glass works (even for welders).

Anyhoo...so the welding glass you got was marked with scuffs when it arrived? What sort of quality images are you getting from it (assuming you've already tried it). I'm going to order some when I get from Ireland on business. It's only a few quid.
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Hi
The clear glass goes on the outside, the dark on the inside of the mask or welding helmet it is sacrificial because the clear glass is cheaper - when it gets full of splatter it is changed. These are old fashioned now, most welders use auto darkening helmets.
You can see through them until you strike up and then they automaticaly darken almost instantly, the clear glass on these is replaced with clear plastic.


Regards


Mike
 
Guys why should you not wash the welding glass? Does it take the coating off it?
 
clicktor said:
Guys why should you not wash the welding glass? Does it take the coating off it?
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No - but it does take the painted reference no's - type 9,10,11 etc. off, making it hard to tell which you've fitted to the camera, should you have more than one.
 
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