Water cooling my new PC

Ben: said:
Just so I understand... The pump Paul has suggested, goes with the XSPC top/reservoir, is that the only res I would need? Or another, bigger res aswell?
Click to expand...


if you bought the Liang/swiftech DDC pump, it would go with the XSPC resovoir yes,
the pump screws in underneath it, so it can be replaced if needs be

the res I suggested is a bay res that accomodates a DDC pump, it would be the only res you will need

:)
 
I see, so I can use the 'Laing 18W DDC-Pump 12V DDC-1T Plus' pump with either res.

How do you go about filling, bleeding, emptying the 'top' res? Much more difficult I can imagine?

Whereas the bay res seems easier. Is that correct?

EDIT: Just noticed the EK CoolStream XT 240mm Dual Radiator is too deep. NEED a slim one to fit in top of case otherwises it affects the MB
 
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Ben: said:
I see, so I can use the 'Laing 18W DDC-Pump 12V DDC-1T Plus' pump with either res.

How do you go about filling, bleeding, emptying the 'top' res? Much more difficult I can imagine?

Whereas the bay res seems easier. Is that correct?

EDIT: Just noticed the EK CoolStream XT 240mm Dual Radiator is too deep. NEED a slim one to fit in top of case otherwises it affects the MB
Click to expand...


the bay res is easier, but a top is no more difficult to fill or bleed, you just need a funnel on the end of a piece of tube :)
 
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Rob 80386 said:
The black Ice GT is pretty good, being slimline, it should be easier to fit and provide a bit more airflow through the case :)
Click to expand...

Super! :D Thank you!

So would that be best mounted with the fans above it (blowing into the case)
Or below it, (exhausting out of the case) :thinking:
 
Ben: said:
Thanks for all that info!
I'm unfamiliar with 'tops' for pumps :/ could you please enlighten me? :p

And cooling for ram blocks on the card, is this a must?

(sorry for all the questions, this is all new to me)
Click to expand...

If you change the pump top, you can change the pumps pumping characteristics

something for you to have a look through

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?257721-Skinnee-Labs-The-Pump-thread...

As for the question regarding the GPU, yes you have to cool the RAM.
Underneath the standard air cooler, a lot of components are cooled by the flow of air & being in direct contact with the cooler.
If you miss one critical component, you will kill the card.
 
Rob 80386 said:
Why not just use a bay res that accomodates a ddc pump

http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/cus...DC-Pump-Multi-Fascia--DDCBAYONE-pid-9974.html
Click to expand...

I have never used one of these.
A lot of people have but some have complained of issues with vibration & problems of filling them up.
They do look good & take up very little space (down to personal preference in the end)

Ben: said:
Ah ok :) I'll have to have a think then :thinking:

Any ideas on this rad? http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/Black-Ice-GT-Stealth-240-Radiator_153.html
It's the only one I can find around the price that is in stock and slim!
Click to expand...

I have used a swiftech GT slim rad (120.3) & I was very happy with it.
It takes a lot of heat for its size.


Ben: said:
Super! :D Thank you!

So would that be best mounted with the fans above it (blowing into the case)
Or below it, (exhausting out of the case) :thinking:
Click to expand...

I would put the fans under the rad.
This way it takes any heat out of the case & not draws it back in.
 
Ben: said:
Super! :D Thank you!

So would that be best mounted with the fans above it (blowing into the case)
Or below it, (exhausting out of the case) :thinking:
Click to expand...


I've always mounted them below, blowing through the rad, (push configuration)

:)
 
piggin said:
I have never used one of these.
A lot of people have but some have complained of issues with vibration & problems of filling them up.
They do look good & take up very little space (down to personal preference in the end)

Hmm there's for and against then. They are more expensive though. And I'm trying to stick to a tight budget.

I have used a swiftech GT slim rad (120.3) & I was very happy with it.
It takes a lot of heat for its size.

Thanks I'll have a look, don't seem to be easy to find though :(

I would put the fans under the rad.
This way it takes any heat out of the case & not draws it back in.
Click to expand...

Rob 80386 said:
I've always mounted them below, blowing through the rad, (push configuration)

:)
Click to expand...

Great that makes sense.
So 1 fan drawing air in at the front. 2 on the top exhausting and 1 on the back exhausting.

Thanks very much for all your help!

(I'll have a read of the pump thread Paul)
 
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neil_g said:
Wouldn't bother unless you're pushing air cooling limits.

Just get good silent fans
Click to expand...

I would consider this statement if you are concerned about funds.

If you put a very good aftermarket cooler on your CPU & update your case fans, you will get very close to what a 120.2 rad will give you.

Again this is all down to personal preference.

A long time ago I decided to go with water instead of going with GOOD air cooling.

As the heat generated by CPU's & GPU's is dropping with every new release. Water cooling is becoming less popular.

Is it better to just get the internals of the case powder coated & add new fans with some extra lighting.
 
piggin said:
I would consider this statement if you are concerned about funds.

If you put a very good aftermarket cooler on your CPU & update your case fans, you will get very close to what a 120.2 rad will give you.

Again this is all down to personal preference.

A long time ago I decided to go with water instead of going with GOOD air cooling.

As the heat generated by CPU's & GPU's is dropping with every new release. Water cooling is becoming less popular.

Is it better to just get the internals of the case powder coated & add new fans with some extra lighting.
Click to expand...

Well budget is always negotiable :P It's just I wanted to spend around £200 for water. I'm going to leave the GPU for a while and just cool the CPU. It seems I can do that for £200.
Then later I might want to add another GTX560ti then cool them both as funds become available :)
 
Ben: said:
Well budget is always negotiable :P It's just I wanted to spend around £200 for water. I'm going to leave the GPU for a while and just cool the CPU. It seems I can do that for £200.
Then later I might want to add another GTX560ti then cool them both as funds become available :)
Click to expand...

I understand, just wanted to give you a few options before you start water cooling.
I thought that I would only have a small setup, with one pump & a small rad etc :lol:

I think it just comes down to you making a decision on what you want now
 
piggin said:
I understand, just wanted to give you a few options before you start water cooling.
I thought that I would only have a small setup, with one pump & a small rad etc :lol:

I think it just comes down to you making a decision on what you want now
Click to expand...

Haha gets a bit addictive I can imagine! Wanting to add new bits etc.

I'd definitely like to get into water cooling, learn all about it and build the system myself.

I'm thinking now maybe about a 120mm rad in the back (fan exhausting), 240mm on the top (fans exhausting) and leave the front 200mm fan as an intake.

Hopefully this would be an easier set up than a 200mm fan on the front due to case mountings. This way I could cool a gpu as well as cpu with 1 loop.
 
You need some fans acting as intake & exhausts on even a pure water cooled set up.
You need to move the air around to ensure you don't cook RAM, motherboards etc.

Both setups that you have suggested will work, it just comes down to preference.
I personally like to have all the water cooling inside the case & not have rads on the outside (for esthetics & fear of damage)
Have a look @ the 650d thread I posted, very inspirational.

As for water cooling being addictive, I am seeing someone about my problem :nuts:
 
piggin said:
You need some fans acting as intake & exhausts on even a pure water cooled set up.
You need to move the air around to ensure you don't cook RAM, motherboards etc.

Both setups that you have suggested will work, it just comes down to preference.
I personally like to have all the water cooling inside the case & not have rads on the outside (for esthetics & fear of damage)
Have a look @ the 650d thread I posted, very inspirational.

As for water cooling being addictive, I am seeing someone about my problem :nuts:
Click to expand...

Oh yes I totally agree with keeping it all inside, I meant a rad inside the back on the case where the current exhaust fan is.

That thread is great! I'm still reading through looking for pics :)

So do you need in and out take fans AS WELL as separate rad cooling fans?
 
Ben: said:
Oh yes I totally agree with keeping it all inside, I meant a rad inside the back on the case where the current exhaust fan is.
Click to expand...

Just though you maybe hanging the rad out the back of the case.

Ben: said:
So do you need in and out take fans AS WELL as separate rad cooling fans?
Click to expand...

No, as long as you have fans (on rads or not) drawing air in & exhausting it out. There will be no problems.
 
2 lovely builds here.

If I was to cool the GPU this is the set up I mean... (without the front rad)


If I didn't cool the GPU, just CPU I could add a fan near the video card to aid cooling, this would also exhaust through the rear 'slot things' (can't remember name lol)
 
Ben: said:
2 lovely builds here.

If I was to cool the GPU this is the set up I mean... (without the front rad)
Click to expand...

Looks like there is not enough space on the top 120.2 rad to fit the second fan due to the 120.1 rad being fitted on the rear exhaust fan cutout.

Ben: said:
If I didn't cool the GPU, just CPU I could add a fan near the video card to aid cooling, this would also exhaust through the rear 'slot things' (can't remember name lol)
Click to expand...

I would say this extra fan is positioned on the end to help the cards run cooler due to them being set up in crossfire.
This is less of a problem with only one card but still a good idea to get as much cool air into the card.
Also as the PCI slots have vented cutouts fitted, the heat will be blown out the back.
 
piggin said:
Looks like there is not enough space on the top 120.2 rad to fit the second fan due to the 120.1 rad being fitted on the rear exhaust fan cutout.



I would say this extra fan is positioned on the end to help the cards run cooler due to them being set up in crossfire.
This is less of a problem with only one card but still a good idea to get as much cool air into the card.
Also as the PCI slots have vented cutouts fitted, the heat will be blown out the back.
Click to expand...

Oh yeah I hadn't noticed that! I wonder if that's because it is a normal size rad on top, not a slim one.

Just wondering if the extra fan would 'block' air from the front fan, but I guess it would just speed up the air flow :)

Haven't trouble finding space for the unused psu cables, should have got a modular!!
 
Hey again, looking to order some parts tonight!

With the XSPC dual bay res and the DDC pump will I need 4 compression fittings?
(8 for the full loop)
Or does the pump mount to the res therefore only needing 2 fittings?
(6 for full loop)

CPU Waterblock = 2
Rad = 2
Pump/res = 2 or 4?

Thanks

Also, I'm trying to get as much as possible through Amazon (for free postage)
Is this the same pump as the one Paul suggested?
Here
A decent waterblock?
Here
 
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Ben: said:
Hey again, looking to order some parts tonight!

With the XSPC dual bay res and the DDC pump will I need 4 compression fittings?
(8 for the full loop)
Or does the pump mount to the res therefore only needing 2 fittings?
(6 for full loop)

CPU Waterblock = 2
Rad = 2
Pump/res = 2 or 4?

Thanks

Also, I'm trying to get as much as possible through Amazon (for free postage)
Is this the same pump as the one Paul suggested?
Here
A decent waterblock?
Here
Click to expand...

decent cpu block is koolance 370 :)
 
if you have too much money then Laing D5 Vario Pump:)
 
bastic said:
if you have too much money then Laing D5 Vario Pump:)
Click to expand...

I certainly don't plan on spending that much lol.

Just want a reasonable pump for the XSPC 200ml Reservoir Top.

THIS?
How are the attached together and water connected :\

Any other suggestions?
 
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Ben: said:
I've decided to go with a XSPC Laing DDC 200ml Reservoir Pump Top but unsure of which pump I need \:

This one has fixed barbs http://www.amazon.co.uk/Laing-DDC-1...1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1328042484&sr=8-1-fkmr1
Click to expand...

This is the same pump that I pointed you to.
They are all manufactured by laing.
There are two version (10watt & 18watt)
I would go with your link.

Ben: said:
I certainly don't plan on spending that much lol.

Just want a reasonable pump for the XSPC 200ml Reservoir Top.

THIS?
How are the attached together and water connected :\

Any other suggestions?
Click to expand...

The top of the pump has four screws holding it onto the lower section.
(the top is the section with the two pipes in it).
The screws are a version of a security screw but an allen key fits it (think it's a 4 or 5mm but can't remember of the top of my head).

You take the screws out & remove the top of the pump.
You then make sure you do not drop the 'o' ring that is in the bottom section of the pump.
You then fit the XSPC res top by fitting new screws through the bottom of the pump & into the res. (four in total).

As for the CPU blocks, stick with the EK version.
 
piggin said:
This is the same pump that I pointed you to.
They are all manufactured by laing.
There are two version (10watt & 18watt)
I would go with your link.

The top of the pump has four screws holding it onto the lower section.
(the top is the section with the two pipes in it).
The screws are a version of a security screw but an allen key fits it (think it's a 4 or 5mm but can't remember of the top of my head).

You take the screws out & remove the top of the pump.
You then make sure you do not drop the 'o' ring that is in the bottom section of the pump.
You then fit the XSPC res top by fitting new screws through the bottom of the pump & into the res. (four in total).

As for the CPU blocks, stick with the EK version.
Click to expand...

Paul thank you so much! Didn't realise the top (barbs) came off. It all becomes clear now :)
Great, I'll get that combo then.
And the black ek HF block.
White UV reactive tubing.
Black EK compression fittings. 5 straight ones and 1 90° for the pump. And maybe a fill cap thingy :)

Thanks again!!
 
If you want to put links to everything you want to purchase before you spend your money, I will be happy to have a look
 
piggin said:
If you want to put links to everything you want to purchase before you spend your money, I will be happy to have a look
Click to expand...

Wow I can't turn down an offer like that! :D

Just noticed the Basket link didn't work.

EK SUPREME HF WATERBLOCK
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0037AQUCW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&m=A1HVS4RF533X76

SCYTHE GENTLE TYPHOON FANS x2
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B001CSKUQI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&m=A1HVS4RF533X76

XSPC RAD
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0067LW8RY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&m=A1HVS4RF533X76

XSPC RES
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B001CAVBLE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&m=A1HVS4RF533X76

EK COMPRESSION FITTINGS x6
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B003U3ZA36/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?ie=UTF8&m=A1HVS4RF533X76

LAING PUMP
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B002C7K58Q/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?ie=UTF8&m=A1HVS4RF533X76

Plus I've already ordered the
TUBING
http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-050-OE&groupid=962&catid=1530&subcat=1775
From eBay.

Just the coolant.

Cheers
 
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Have to say the only reason I'd watercool is to reduce noise (but I do have 3 towers and a laptop within touching distance here). Given the massive number of fans people are shoving into cases, is there anything I'm missing over air cooling other than an extra 10% speed and bragging rights?
 
arad85 said:
Have to say the only reason I'd watercool is to reduce noise (but I do have 3 towers and a laptop within touching distance here). Given the massive number of fans people are shoving into cases, is there anything I'm missing over air cooling other than an extra 10% speed and bragging rights?
Click to expand...

Lower temps?

(edited list above^)
 
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Ben: said:
Lower temps?
Click to expand...
Not sure how relevant that is these days... I work for a Silicon company and the people validating the hardware are quite happy to run the chips at 125 deg C junction temperature all day, every day. When was the last time you heard of a CPU going AWOL because of heat (where it didn't just go pop as the heatsinking wasn't adequate).
 
Ben, I have had a look @ your equipment.
You have linked it all through Amazon?
The price Amazon charge is higher than the price on the Special Tech web pages & the postage is more expensive.
(Amazon are charging a high postage price for each item, unlike Special Tech who charge you once)

As for the equipment

I would add this to the order for the EK water block

http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/EK-Supreme-HF-Jet-Plate-6-pid-15038.html

You have said that you do not have a lot of top clearance but the rad you have picked is 121 x 35.5 x 275mm

This one is only 30mm

http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/cus...m-XFLOW-Radiator--GTS240-XFLOW-pid-13600.html

The 7/16" white UV tubing is out of stock @ Special Tech
http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/cus...lexible-Tubing--White--UV-Blue-pid-12956.html

But I would give them a call & ask is it back in soon.
I have spoken to them a few times before, they are very helpful & a plus point is they are Welsh :lol:

As for fluids, the world is your oyster. (you only need 1 ltr as its a small loop)

Mayhem have a very good range
http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Fluids--Dyes-cid-1182.html
The colour choice is yours.
I have been told they do not have the same issues as other dies.

If you want to be more conservative then just go with
http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/cus...-Litre---Ideal-for-watercooling-pid-2272.html
You can pick this up in Tesco, in the car section or in their petrol station.

To stop bacteria you need one of these (only needed if you go with distilled water)
http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Pulse-Modding-999-Silver-Kill-Coil-pid-13036.html

You will also need one of these to get it into the res
http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Plastic-Funnel---Ideal-for-Watercooling-pid-14166.html

If you wanted to go with a colour fluid to give it all a little more :clap:
Then go with this equipment.

You could go with this water block
http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/cus...l-CPU-Waterblock--Copper-Plexi-pid-12143.html

Clear pipework
http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/cus...D---58-OD-11-16mm-Tubing--Clear-pid-5397.html

I think thats about it :bonk:

I have to go to work for a few hours today :gag:
So will be unable to follow this thread.
If you have any further issues, problems etc, then post & I will get back to you later.
 
piggin said:
Ben, I have had a look @ your equipment.
You have linked it all through Amazon?
The price Amazon charge is higher than the price on the Special Tech web pages & the postage is more expensive.
(Amazon are charging a high postage price for each item, unlike Special Tech who charge you once)

As for the equipment

I would add this to the order for the EK water block

http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/EK-Supreme-HF-Jet-Plate-6-pid-15038.html

You have said that you do not have a lot of top clearance but the rad you have picked is 121 x 35.5 x 275mm

This one is only 30mm

http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/cus...m-XFLOW-Radiator--GTS240-XFLOW-pid-13600.html

The 7/16" white UV tubing is out of stock @ Special Tech
http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/cus...lexible-Tubing--White--UV-Blue-pid-12956.html

But I would give them a call & ask is it back in soon.
I have spoken to them a few times before, they are very helpful & a plus point is they are Welsh :lol:

As for fluids, the world is your oyster. (you only need 1 ltr as its a small loop)

Mayhem have a very good range
http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Fluids--Dyes-cid-1182.html
The colour choice is yours.
I have been told they do not have the same issues as other dies.

If you want to be more conservative then just go with
http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/cus...-Litre---Ideal-for-watercooling-pid-2272.html
You can pick this up in Tesco, in the car section or in their petrol station.

To stop bacteria you need one of these (only needed if you go with distilled water)
http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Pulse-Modding-999-Silver-Kill-Coil-pid-13036.html

You will also need one of these to get it into the res
http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Plastic-Funnel---Ideal-for-Watercooling-pid-14166.html

If you wanted to go with a colour fluid to give it all a little more :clap:
Then go with this equipment.

You could go with this water block
http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/cus...l-CPU-Waterblock--Copper-Plexi-pid-12143.html

Clear pipework
http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/cus...D---58-OD-11-16mm-Tubing--Clear-pid-5397.html

I think thats about it :bonk:

I have to go to work for a few hours today :gag:
So will be unable to follow this thread.
If you have any further issues, problems etc, then post & I will get back to you later.
Click to expand...

:eek: Paul thanks again for all that lovely information! :)

As I've said, I bought some White UV Tubing from eBay.
Just added up all the parts on SpecialTech and they are about £15 less and free delivery over £200. So it all helps :)

Good suggestion on the 30mm rad. That should be perfect!

What does the Jet Plate do? :\ Haven't seen that before.

Will go for the XSPC compression fittings as they haven't got EK in stock.

I was going to have clear fluid as the pipes aren't 'see through'. However with the res being visible inside and having a clear water block a coloured fluid may still be worth it. I guess blue is the only option to go with my colour scheme, which is fine :)
However most of them are out of stock lol.

Also I like the idea of Non Conductive, where as I'm guessing distilled water isn't.

I hope to order everything today :naughty:
 
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Ben: said:
As I've said, I bought some White UV Tubing from eBay.
Click to expand...

Sorry, I must have missed that part. I thought you needed some as you linked tubing into the OcUk links.
If you have tubing then go with that.

Ben: said:
What does the Jet Plate do? :\ Haven't seen that before.
Click to expand...

The jet plate changes the flow characteristics of the water block & makes it cool more efficiently.
Basically you put it inside the block & it slows the flow down.
Therefore the water has more time to take the heat away.

Ben: said:
Will go for the XSPC compression fittings as they haven't got EK in stock.
Click to expand...

I take it you mean these ones
http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/cus...D---58-OD-Tubing--Black-Chrome-pid-12869.html

I have never used these myself. Can't see them being that different to EK

Ben: said:
I was going to have clear fluid as the pipes aren't 'see through'. However with the res being visible inside and having a clear water block a coloured fluid may still be worth it. I guess blue is the only option to go with my colour scheme, which is fine :)
However most of them are out of stock lol.
Click to expand...

If you follow the link & scroll down the page it shows a lot of mayhems Aurora & pastel products in stock.

http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Fluids--Dyes-cid-1182.html

Just stay away from fezer, primochill etc

As for colour I have run just distilled in my system with coloured pipes & there is very little difference to the aesthetics.
If you are going with white, go with distilled water & a kill coil.

DSCF1494.jpg


DSCF1355.jpg


I have also run red fezer with clear pipework but that clogged everything up

2008_10210248.jpg



Ben: said:
Also I like the idea of Non Conductive, where as I'm guessing distilled water isn't.
Click to expand...

People say that non conductive does not conduct an electric current.
The fact is, the fluid has less impurities & therefore is less conductive.
This does not really help you if you have a leak.
If you have fluid leaking over your components for any length of time they will die :nuts:

I killed a 1Kw Enermax power supply by dropping some non conductive liquid down inside the casing. :nono:
I though I had dried it out but when I turned it on it went POP, POP, POP :bang:

Thought I would die of a heart attack. :wave:
 
May I also recommend a flow meter, as it saved my graphics cards from damage when the pump died, it indicated immediatly that the pump wasn't working :)
 
More great information again! :) thank you.
Jet plate looks like a great idea!
Distilled or clear fluid it is then :)
That white tubing build is lovvvverly!
Flow meter seems like a very good idea!
I'll look into them.

Thanks! :D
 
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