Video a pole dance....

Raymond Lin

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It's not a paid gig, for a friend so it's less pressure but I still want to get it right.

I have 3 DSLR (5D3 x 2 and a 5D2)

I have one Yongnuo LED light.

I have 2 light stands.

How would you guys tackle this? I will get her to do her routine twice, one with the camera set on a tripod for a wide shot uninterrupted. 2nd time is where I have questions with, in the final edit I envisage editing wide and close up shots together, how do I do that easily?

Also, how would you focus? obviously this is not going to be easy with her moving all the time.

So....questions

1 - how would you tackle the focusing
2 - how to edit the wide and close up video together in sync?
 
1) manual
2) the 2 sets won't be exact, so you need to shoot in such a way that it's not obvious. The angle changes and zoom changes need to be large.
3) You need more lights.
 
You've got three cameras, why don't you shoot both routines wide with two of them on tripods at different angles, and close ups with the third.
It shouldn't be a problem focussing, your depth of field will only be a metre or so, biggest problem IMO will be camera shake if you are hand holding the third camera.
Also as above, the more lighting the better.
Syncing should be fairly easy, you'll be able to see the peaks from the music (assuming the routine will be done to music). Don't keep stopping and starting the footage when you shoot, run all cameras for the whole duration of the song. If you keep starting and stopping one of the cameras then you will have to sync each segment seperately which is a major pain in rear. Once you've done you could add the actual music track for better sound quality.
 
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Thanks guys, I do have 2 more lights but are mains powered, guess I'll use them (as opposed to spending £150 on more lights that i'll never use again).

In terms of using 2 cameras on tripod and 1 free hand. I could do that. Now....would you shoot in a way not be in the frame or don't worry about it and just step in and out and edit to shoot?

What focal length do you guys recommend shooting the free hand stuff with?

I also have a Manfrotto 561BHDV-1 monopod for a more steady image? It's no giro but it could sort of work in terms of moving small distances.
 
Depends what lenses you've got, use the longest for the close ups and the two widest for the statics, I'd keep out of the frame of the two wide angle ones.
I would think you'd be better off having your lighting and cameras all set up on one side.
Try a dummy run with someone just standing and dancing with the approx. Lighting conditions if you are still worried.

I'm assuming you've done video before and know all the rules on the relationship between frame rate and shutter speed.
 
Depends what lenses you've got, use the longest for the close ups and the two widest for the statics, I'd keep out of the frame of the two wide angle ones.
I would think you'd be better off having your lighting and cameras all set up on one side.
Try a dummy run with someone just standing and dancing with the approx. Lighting conditions if you are still worried.

I'm assuming you've done video before and know all the rules on the relationship between frame rate and shutter speed.

I have...

24/1.4 L
35/1.4 L
50/1.4 Art
85/1.2 L
100/2.8 L
135/2.0 L
45 TSE
16-35/2.8 L
24-70/2.8 L

And no...what relationship between frame rate and shutter speed?
 
You need to set your frame rate in the camera menu, the usual frame rate is 24 or 25 frames per second, which gives a look we're used to seeing in films etc.
When you decide on a frame rate (too high a rate will give an unnatural 'sharp' look), times it by two and that's your shutter speed.

which means that at 25 fps you are limited to a shutter speed of 1/50th, which is why you have to use good lighting to get a workable aperture, in daylight it's the other way round, you have to use Neutral Density Filters to get the correct exposures.
 
What aperture do you normally shoot at?

I'm used to shooting stills at sub 2.0 which I know are very shallow especially for moving targets.
 
It depends on how much of the frame I want in focus, when I shoot landscapes I would use a wide angle lens and aim for f11 unless I want a certain effect, a person or animal where I want to blur out the background I'd use a long lens with an aperture of f2.4, maybe a bit higher if I want more of the subject in focus, or if the subject is moving a lot. Using too wide a lens on people distorts the features a little, I wouldn't go any wider than a 50mm.
 
High frame rate isn't unnatural, it may not be "film-like". Personally I'd shoot this at 50p, as that would reduce artefacts.

24fps was an accident of history caused by the audio requirements,
 
High frame rate isn't unnatural, it may not be "film-like". Personally I'd shoot this at 50p, as that would reduce artefacts.

24fps was an accident of history caused by the audio requirements,


I meant 'natural' as in 'what we're used to seeing'.

Shooting with the Canon cameras he (or she) is limited in choice of frame rate, in 1080 I think the choices are 30fps, 25 or 24.
To get a higher frame rate you have to lower the quality to 720 which is a trade off, personally I prefer to shoot at the lower frame rate to keep the quality at 1080.
I've also ran into problems with my Canon when shooting with the low compression setting and higher frame rates because it struggles to write the information to the card. As a newbie I wouldnt expect him/her to have the best SD card available.

I was trying to give the OP some baseline settings to use, I know you're at a far higher level than me, but IMO as someone new to video, the OP would only get confused with a big debate on the merits of different frame rates, video quality, etc. etc., it still confuses me at times.
 
Well my main cards are 128G Sandisk Pro with 90/mbs which should give about 9 hours off 1080p video right?
 
I meant 'natural' as in 'what we're used to seeing'.

Shooting with the Canon cameras he (or she) is limited in choice of frame rate, in 1080 I think the choices are 30fps, 25 or 24.
To get a higher frame rate you have to lower the quality to 720 which is a trade off, personally I prefer to shoot at the lower frame rate to keep the quality at 1080.
I've also ran into problems with my Canon when shooting with the low compression setting and higher frame rates because it struggles to write the information to the card. As a newbie I wouldnt expect him/her to have the best SD card available.

I was trying to give the OP some baseline settings to use, I know you're at a far higher level than me, but IMO as someone new to video, the OP would only get confused with a big debate on the merits of different frame rates, video quality, etc. etc., it still confuses me at times.


Shooting a fast motion at 25 or 30 will give a lot of motion blur though.

Natural shots require higher framerates. If you get a chance to view a demo of proper UHDTV (ie 3840x2160 or similar at 100 fps with HDR), then it's like looking out of the window.
 
Shooting a fast motion at 25 or 30 will give a lot of motion blur though.

Natural shots require higher framerates. If you get a chance to view a demo of proper UHDTV (ie 3840x2160 or similar at 100 fps with HDR), then it's like looking out of the window.

Its immaterial though, all he can shoot with his cameras is either 24/25fps at 1080p or 50fps at 720p. Any other discussion on this thread is pointless.
 
25fps should be OK. I sometimes find higher frame rates can look to artificial, uses you're going to use them to get some nice slo-motion shots in there somewhere - which considering the subject material I'd think there is plenty of options for some closeup slo-mo shots.
 
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