Vc - vr etc

ThelVlenace

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I know what the above terms mean. I just wonder what is the actual difference you achieve by having a VC lens to a non VC lens. When would you notice? Also would something like a 50mm 1.8 not need VC due to high shutter speeds?

A little insight greatly appreciated! :)
 
I know what the above terms mean. I just wonder what is the actual difference you achieve by having a VC lens to a non VC lens. When would you notice? Also would something like a 50mm 1.8 not need VC due to high shutter speeds?

A little insight greatly appreciated! :)

They are 'camera shake reduction' systems: IS - Image Stabilisation (Canon), VR - Vibration Reduction (Nikon), OS - Optical Stabilisation (Sigma), and VC - Vibration Contol (Tamron). It's brilliant technology and works very well.

When you hold a camera, there is always some movement known as camera-shake that can blur the image. This increases with focal length, and the rule of thumb is that most people can successfully achieve sharp results when the focal length (on a full-frame camera) equals the shutter speed - say 1/500sec with a 500mm lens.

Shake reduction systems detect the shaking and shift lens elements extremely rapidly to correct it, so the image stays sharp. There are also in-camera shake reduction systems that shift the sensor to compensate.

Both methods are extremely effective and a claimed 3-stops of improvement would mean that in the example above 1/500sec could be reduced to 1/60sec and still get a sharp result (1/250sec being one stop, 1/125sec two stops, 1/60sec three stops). Obviously very useful in lower light, or when you want a high f/number that would also push the shutter speed down.

However, shake reduction systems can do nothing to reduce blur from subject movement. Arguably, this feature is less useful on shorter focal length lenses like wide-angles and also with low f/number lenses like the 50/1.8 mentioned above. It's much less commonly found on these kinds of lenses.
 
^ Says it all :)
 
As above really, it does help and can make a huge difference.

Depending on lens and what you're going to use it for, can help to decide if it's worth paying the extra for - personally, if you can afford the difference, it is worth getting the IS version
 
HoppyUK said:
They are 'camera shake reduction' systems: IS - Image Stabilisation (Canon), VR - Vibration Reduction (Nikon), OS - Optical Stabilisation (Sigma), and VC - Vibration Contol (Tamron). It's brilliant technology and works very well.

When you hold a camera, there is always some movement known as camera-shake that can blur the image. This increases with focal length, and the rule of thumb is that most people can successfully achieve sharp results when the focal length (on a full-frame camera) equals the shutter speed - say 1/500sec with a 500mm lens.

Shake reduction systems detect the shaking and shift lens elements extremely rapidly to correct it, so the image stays sharp. There are also in-camera shake reduction systems that shift the sensor to compensate.

Both methods are extremely effective and a claimed 3-stops of improvement would mean that in the example above 1/500sec could be reduced to 1/60sec and still get a sharp result (1/250sec being one stop, 1/125sec two stops, 1/60sec three stops). Obviously very useful in lower light, or when you want a high f/number that would also push the shutter speed down.

However, shake reduction systems can do nothing to reduce blur from subject movement. Arguably, this feature is less useful on shorter focal length lenses like wide-angles and also with low f/number lenses like the 50/1.8 mentioned above. It's much less commonly found on these kinds of lenses.

That's great! Thanks a lot for your help!!!
 
Canon - IS.. Image stabilisation.
Nikon - VR.. Vibration Reduction
Tamron - VC.. Vibration Control
Sigma - OS.. Optical Stabilisation

The more you can control the stabilisation of the image, the better images you can get in shaky conditions and also low light due to the image stabilisation being the step between no image stabilisation at all and using a tripod.

:)
 
farrance said:
Canon - IS.. Image stabilisation.
Nikon - VR.. Vibration Reduction
Tamron - VC.. Vibration Control
Sigma - OS.. Optical Stabilisation

The more you can control the stabilisation of the image, the better images you can get in shaky conditions and also low light due to the image stabilisation being the step between no image stabilisation at all and using a tripod.

:)

So with regards to this...how would a 50mm prime hold out in low light? I know it's not a concern with a tripod but if you were going to use it handheld?
 
So with regards to this...how would a 50mm prime hold out in low light? I know it's not a concern with a tripod but if you were going to use it handheld?

The rule of thumb, as mentioned above, is shutter speed should be no longer than the focal length (preferably higher) on a full frame camera, ie 1/50sec with a 50mm lens. If you have a crop-format camera, then multiply by crop factor, eg 1.6x for Canon, so 1/50sec minimum should be 1/80sec. And image stabilisation could reduce that by maybe three stops.

It's a very rough guide though, with a good solid stance, and some people can hand hold much more steadily than others. Good technique can make a big difference, ie all the weight should be supported in your cupped left hand, leaving the right hand free to balance the camera and operate controls. Left elbow should be braced gently against the side of your chest, forming a supporting triangle.
 
So with regards to this...how would a 50mm prime hold out in low light? I know it's not a concern with a tripod but if you were going to use it handheld?

Very well, due to having a very low f-stop. F/1.8/1.4/1.2 primes are extremely good for freezing action but are often hard to do so because of the shallow depth of field.

Most times, I'm using a 50mm lens on my camera and when I'm outside in pure sunlight, i'm shooting at 1/500th to 1/1000th of a second. I'd have to be inside washing machine in order to cause motion blur at that speed! :D
 
1/500th to 1/1000th is about right for sports photography.
 
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