Using a light meter (part 2)

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Hopefully avoiding this thread going the way the other did, I thought I would let people know how I got on with my new Light Meter...

For those that don't know, I bought a 2nd hand Sekonic L-358 to help me with my portraits. Primarily to use with studio flash but while I am waiting for Lencarta to get some stock, I tried it out on a family Xmas portrait session.

I was working mainly with a Yongnuo 460 mk 2 in a softbox and I measured from the subject to the camera. Although shooting in a home, it was late in the day so it was dark out and we were using only interior lights and flash.

I used the meter in flash mode triggering the flash with transmitter test button on my rf-602's.

Firstly, it made me feel a bit more professional, but also more in control. After the first test I had my exposure (then realised I needed to extend the dome - doh!) So re measured and dialed it in.

Pretty much straight away - spot on exposures! I was really impressed! For me the biggest thing was in processing though, consistent good exposures has saved me hours of time. Will post a pic or two shortly but I can say now, the light meter is one of the best investments I have made in my photography...
 
I bought the same thing second hand to help me balance flash and ambient light better. Still haven't used it. Really should pull my finger out.
 
It's a great investment and a great skill to have, often underestimated IMO. Glad you're getting on well with it
 
I haven't got a light meter yet, but the rf602 being mentioned just made me wonder how one could do the same with the rf603. Those little brats won't go into transmitter mode without TTL pin contact.

Any ideas?
 
Image Warrior said:
Firstly, it made me feel a bit more professional, but also more in control. After the first test I had my exposure (then realised I needed to extend the dome - doh!) So re measured and dialed it in.
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Ive never used a light meter but I am getting one at Christmas, anyway, my question "What do you mean Dome" please
 
Just Dave said:
Ive never used a light meter but I am getting one at Christmas, anyway, my question "What do you mean Dome" please
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As my limited understanding has it.. the incident dome works in two positions, in the lower position it's a 2-dimensional measure of light useful for document copying, raised it's a 3-dimensional measure of light for 3-dimensional subjects (most portraits, politicians excepted).

Probably over-simplistic, I'm still getting to grips with flash-metering myself.
 
Cistron said:
I haven't got a light meter yet, but the rf602 being mentioned just made me wonder how one could do the same with the rf603. Those little brats won't go into transmitter mode without TTL pin contact.

Any ideas?
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Well I know the flash meter gives you 90 seconds to trigger the flash so you could leave the meter with your subject and go and activate it or find a remote trigger for your camera ie hahnel or similar? Alternatively get the 602's ;)

So will they not activate your flash other than when they are on the hotshoe at all? The 602's have a little test button on top of the transmitter...
 
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Alastair said:
(most portraits, politicians excepted).

Probably over-simplistic, I'm still getting to grips with flash-metering myself.
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That's funny! And no its not, its spot on as far as I understand it!
 
Oh.. and beginner errors that I've made that you'll no doubt encounter.. trying to get a flash reading for some website headshots, couldn't get my head around why I always got a "U" (under - or too low to measure) reading, the flourescent tubes in the room were triggering the reading before I could fire the flashes. Switched to plan B and chimped it instead (no alternative location in the time available).

Flash meters aren't infallible, it's worth knowing all the times they might let you down.
 
Alastair said:
Oh.. and beginner errors that I've made that you'll no doubt encounter.. trying to get a flash reading for some website headshots, couldn't get my head around why I always got a "U" (under - or too low to measure) reading, the flourescent tubes in the room were triggering the reading before I could fire the flashes. Switched to plan B and chimped it instead (no alternative location in the time available).

Flash meters aren't infallible, it's worth knowing all the times they might let you down.
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They will ony let you down if you use them incorrectly (technically they are not letting you down).

things like metering with something between it and the light source (like your own body) therefore giving a false reading or metering without including all the light sources like a reflector.....

I've never known florescent tubes to affect it but easily solved by switching the offending light off. The problem is not the fault of the lightmeter - so it's not really letting you down.
 
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My bad phrasing Jim, it's good to know when you might run into situations where you're left scratching your head wondering why the lightmeter isn't doing what you expect.. I couldn't switch off the lights in the area available without blacking out other areas, I was puzzled at the time until I got back and pulled out the manual. Sekonic say in the manual that some flourescent lighting may cause this problem - but I'd not encountered it before.
 
Alastair said:
My bad phrasing Jim, it's good to know when you might run into situations where you're left scratching your head wondering why the lightmeter isn't doing what you expect.. I couldn't switch off the lights in the area available without blacking out other areas, I was puzzled at the time until I got back and pulled out the manual. Sekonic say in the manual that some flourescent lighting may cause this problem - but I'd not encountered it before.
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The problem will be caused by the lights flickering - some meters can be female over sensitive and prone to irrational behaviour:)
 
Alastair said:
My bad phrasing Jim, it's good to know when you might run into situations where you're left scratching your head wondering why the lightmeter isn't doing what you expect.. I couldn't switch off the lights in the area available without blacking out other areas, I was puzzled at the time until I got back and pulled out the manual. Sekonic say in the manual that some flourescent lighting may cause this problem - but I'd not encountered it before.
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Alistair me neither so I've learned something :)

Did the modelling bulbs not provide enough light (or did your lights not have modelling lamps)?
 
Garry Edwards said:
The problem will be caused by the lights flickering - some meters can be female over sensitive and prone to irrational behaviour:)
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Sometimes (just sometimes) you are quite funnyt Garry lol - like it :clap:
 
EOS_JD said:
Alistair me neither so I've learned something :)

Did the modelling bulbs not provide enough light (or did your lights not have modelling lamps)?
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No modelling lamps.. multiple speedlight set-up. I need to have a play but I think a PC-synch between the meter and the RF-602 transmitter will solve the problem.
 
Alastair said:
No modelling lamps.. multiple speedlight set-up. I need to have a play but I think a PC-synch between the meter and the RF-602 transmitter will solve the problem.
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Yes it would. To be honest I tried that and it's a pain - would do so only if I had to
 
Finally got around to adding my photo! Here is one from the series shot using my new L358. I was honestly amazed with the change in my PP time (or how crap my exposures were previously!). Either way I have noticed a dramatic increase in consistency and because of less PP increased quality in my images.


Untitled by Rob.Richards.Photography, on Flickr
 
Image Warrior said:
I was honestly amazed with the change in my PP time (or how crap my exposures were previously!). Either way I have noticed a dramatic increase in consistency and because of less PP increased quality in my images.
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Not only should you notice the reduction in editing required but also how much easier the editing is, if required. Effectively you have removed one more variable.

So which way did you point the meter? :help:

Mike
 
Mike you are right - and a big variable at that! In this instance, I metered towards the camera...
 
I also have the L-358 and it saves time too..Especially if you are using lights that have calibrated level increments (Eli)
 
Cistron said:
I haven't got a light meter yet, but the rf602 being mentioned just made me wonder how one could do the same with the rf603. Those little brats won't go into transmitter mode without TTL pin contact.

Any ideas?
Click to expand...
shouldnt matter though? if the LM looks for the flash sync just take the shot? ok so its not the same as the test button on the 602s but your get the reading right? unless im missing something?
 
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