I don't think anyone objects to a "basic" book, aimed at beginners. What people object to is a book full of padding and waffle that does not explain things well, or accurately, and which fails to acknowledge the features of modern day equipment for establishing exposure before the shot and confirming the exposure afterwards. Basically, the way the book approaches things is not how things are done today - IMHO. Maybe some of it is semantics, but even though I know what he means to say, I would not choose the words he does in the order he presents them in order to describe the process he goes through. I do not consider it helpful instruction aimed at somebody struggling to learn. I consider it obtuse.
Take this example from page 22 of the book....
OK, he chooses 8 seconds for his exposure in order to blur traffic. That's fine. But look at the next bit. He says "I adjusted my aperture until the camera's light meter indicated f/11 as a correct exposure....". Well, I'm sorry, but that comes over to me as nonsense. Surely he adjusted the aperture until the meter indicated a correct exposure and that turned out to be with an aperture of f/11, which (hopefully) satisfied his wishes regarding DOF. He should have been watching the meter initially, not the aperture. The aperture was the result, not the input. Furthermore, there is no mention of what the meter reading was, simply that it was "correct". So what was correct? Was it 0? +1? -1? Something else? Who knows? The whole section is completely useless. Of course, we get treated to some nonsense about parking tickets. Very bloody useful, not. There was no useful lesson here whatsoever, just useless drivel.
What he should have done was to set a shutter speed to portray motion as he wished, then set an aperture to provide the DOF he desired, and then set the ISO to allow him to get a correct exposure with those two constraints in place. He should have told us the metering mode, where exactly he was metering in the scene and what meter reading he was aiming for, and why. Still, I'm sure someone finds it useful to know that the bridge in in Hamburg and he has made over $4,000 from that picture. Personally I couldn't care less about those trivial details. This book is supposed to be teaching us how to set an exposure. FAIL!
Here's how I might have written it....
I wanted to photograph this bridge scene, with wonderful light in the sky from the setting sun. I knew it would be impossible to pull out detail in the bridge itself so I was happy to let the bridge become a silhouette. In order to make long light trails from the traffic I set a longish exposure of 8 seconds. Since I was using a long lens (300mm) I knew I would need to stop down in order to have sufficient DOF. I figured I'd need f/11. Finally I had to make sure my exposure was correct. I switched to spot metering and aimed the camera at the sky just above the bridge. I didn't want the scene to look too bright, and I didn't want to overexpose the light trails from the traffic, so I chose to set an exposure with the sky at +0 on the meter. To do this I needed to use 400 ISO. With the exposure set manually I then recomposed the scene and took my shot. I checked my histogram to make sure I was happy with the result and spotted small areas of blinking highlight warnings for the street lamps. I was happy with those. The trails from the car headlamps were barely showing clipping and I was happy with the shot. Here is the histogram for this shot.... ..... You will note the peak on the extreme left, which relates to the dark areas of the bridge in silhouette. There is also a small peak on the extreme right, which is for the road lighting and car headlights. The broader peak in the centre is for the various tones of the sky, which was set to +0 on the meter, but extends a little to either side.
Now, that's hardly creative writing, but it conveys the full thought process of setting up the shot, the sequence of operations of the camera, and the final confirmation that I got the results I expected. I'm sure that those are "instructions" that anyone could follow. They might find they need something other than 400 ISO, but otherwise it should all fall into place and could be practiced and results compared, like a mini exercise. There really is no need to know what I was driving, how much fuel was left in the tank or what I ate for breakfast.