Ultra Low Light - What do you do ?

Tugster

Suspended / Banned
Messages
4,421
Name
Tug
Edit My Images
Yes
Let me set the scene,

The lighting at this night game is very uneven. The body is set at 6400 and Im aiming for a minimum shutter of 1/500s @f/2.8...... Unfortunately only 1/125s is available. Lenses are the 300mm f/2.8 IS and a 135mm f/2.0

Knowing full well unless the speed of play reduces to snail pace, 99% of the shots are going to be full of shakes.

Now remember you are not on a deadline, so would you under expose by two stops shooting raw and PP the images when you get in ?

Or is there some other way you would approach this situation?
 
Under exposing only adds noise and adds more noise than if you would have upped the ISO the equivilant amount of stops, your best choice would be to opt for the 135mm f/2, not only will you gain almost 1 full stop because of the faster aperture you will also gain extra due to the wider lens which by its very nature lets in more light.

Best advice i dish out regarding shooting ultra low light when you simply cant up the ISO to an acceptable level is not to "over reach" which will require cropping hence highlighting the noise, fill the frame as much as possible, probably the most important bit of info i give is to concentrate on shooting your subject as he is running straight towards you, motion blur is minimised and almost negated if your subject is coming to you head on, dont shoot tour subject running across you, motion blur is exaggerated.

Or simply get a D3S and up the ISO
 
If you are expecting to throw away 99% of the shots, then why not try some at even slower shutter speeds, you migth just nail one of they - especially if you pan well or as Gary said shoot head on - Good luck

Glenn

http://www.gmatherphotography.com
 
Cry and go home.





Actually, in situations where this has happened, I've phoned the desk, explained the situation and told them my plan. Which is to shoot some under-exposed and dragged up in PP (explain to the desk they might have a LOT of noise)....some with slower SS and panning and some which might be a bit "arty" and using the slow shutter speed to my advantage.

At all points, I've explained the situation to my desk so they'll know what to expect, and won't think I've had a mini-stroke and forgotten how to use a camera when they get some strange stuff uploaded.
 
Last edited:
Let me set the scene,

The lighting at this night game is very uneven. The body is set at 6400 and Im aiming for a minimum shutter of 1/500s @f/2.8...... Unfortunately only 1/125s is available. Lenses are the 300mm f/2.8 IS and a 135mm f/2.0

Sounds like Cas Lock Lanes ground, i once had to cover a BARLA International there, BARLA GB V Manly Sea Eagles during a massive Thunder and Lightening storm, 1DMK2 ISO 3200 and underexposed 2 full stops just to get 1/320th sec on the good parts of the ground

full set here http://www.barla.fotopic.net/c1108196.html

Just looking at the thumbnails you can clearly see the vast difference in lighting on the pitch, they were all run through NN as well

Sold about £400 worth of prints though so worth it in the end.
 
Let me set the scene,

The lighting at this night game is very uneven. The body is set at 6400 and Im aiming for a minimum shutter of 1/500s @f/2.8

sigh :( I would love a minimum shutter of 500 at some of the venues I go to.. I have tried to say this niceley but I really would take the shutter speed minimums people give you with a pinch of salt :( you cant have a minimum shutter without knowing what people are photogrpahing what lens they are using etc.. people giving minimum shutter advice are talking about there own experiences...

You can get pictures at far lower shutter speeds than that.. get the nifty fifty out if you have to... I have never left a venue wiht no pictures in my life..
 
Well if it was me I'd go for 250th and try for the more static shots. Fiddle a bit in PS and NN to bring them up. You may end up with high percentage of ***** but should get a few usuables.
 
Well if it was me I'd go for 250th and try for the more static shots. Fiddle a bit in PS and NN to bring them up. You may end up with high percentage of ***** but should get a few usuables.



you can get some action pics on slow shutter but your keeper rate will drop to maybe one in one hundred.. but anythings better than going home wiht nothing IMHO .. even moreso if you ahve been sent on an assignment.
 
In addition to working round the poor light by changing iso/lenses etc I think I'd diversify my portfolio of shots more than usual. Sure, you will have to try and get some action shots but look for alternatives where noise and/or a slow shutter speed won't be such an issue - celebration shots, booking/sendings off/ranting at refs, crowd shots, wide angle scenes...
 
Under exposing only adds noise and adds more noise than if you would have upped the ISO the equivilant amount of stops, your best choice would be to opt for the 135mm f/2, not only will you gain almost 1 full stop because of the faster aperture you will also gain extra due to the wider lens which by its very nature lets in more light.

Best advice i dish out regarding shooting ultra low light when you simply cant up the ISO to an acceptable level is not to "over reach" which will require cropping hence highlighting the noise, fill the frame as much as possible, probably the most important bit of info i give is to concentrate on shooting your subject as he is running straight towards you, motion blur is minimised and almost negated if your subject is coming to you head on, dont shoot tour subject running across you, motion blur is exaggerated.

Or simply get a D3S and up the ISO

Gary,

Is the D3S that much better or is it just better?

I think last night was really the extreme of what I may encounter in the future. Well I hope it was :thinking::thinking::thinking:anyway !!!!!!

Thank you all again for the useful information....
 
Gary,

Is the D3S that much better or is it just better?

I think last night was really the extreme of what I may encounter in the future. Well I hope it was :thinking::thinking::thinking:anyway !!!!!!

Thank you all again for the useful information....
Well I've owned the MKIV as well and I would say the D3S is at least 1 to 1 1/2 stops better but others might argue differently, read the thread I posted in the sports forum titled "RL does ISO 10,000 here http://www.talkphotography.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=258967
 
Last edited:
Well I've owned the MKIV as well and I would say the D3S is at least 1 to 1 1/2 stops better but others might argue differently, read the thread I posted in the sports forum titled "D3S does ISO 10,000

Its an interesting point you make Gary, and as you have had both, I think you are probably well versed to make that statement....I will try the mk4 ...if I feel its not giving me what I expect, I will change.....Unfortunately for me,,,, Im not really the type to stick to a brand because its what I had first....It started that way when I got back into photography but now the caamera is just a tool. ''Right tool for the job'' Something the millitary taught me lol
 
I've seen some excellent stuff from the MKIV under terrible lighting, I think wether you shoot Nikon or Canon everyone will tell you that if you nail the exposure or even over expose slightly you will minimize the noise, under exposing adds more noise than upping the ISI IMHO
 
have you guys ever pushed a pop of flash (like 1/128th) into an uber low light image? to get a little stability?
 
I've seen some excellent stuff from the MKIV under terrible lighting, I think wether you shoot Nikon or Canon everyone will tell you that if you nail the exposure or even over expose slightly you will minimize the noise, under exposing adds more noise than upping the ISI IMHO

If possible I always go for the slight over expose if I can in terrible conditions.. wipes most of the noiuse of skin and if you ahve players in white kits its amazingly clear :)
 
Back
Top