Tutorial for developing film and Axomat manual

cowasaki

cowasaki

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Well my studio will hopefully be finished by weekend and inside I have built a changing room which is absolutely light tight to use as a dark room.

I am totally new to developing and have not done ANY at all.

I have just bought a complete kit of stuff for my new darkroom. LINK.

So I have all the kit: enlarger; easel; timers; tongs; film and paper squeegies; funnels; measuring cylinders; 2 x 2 film developing tanks; 4 film developing tank; jugs; trays; safe light; exposure thingy; grain viewer/focus checker thingy and an absolutely humungous box of paper including all manner of vintage and rolls etc.

There are some chemicals but Dave said he can't be sure of how good they are now.

So......

I have found a seller on ebay who will do me a complete kit of chemicals (all Ilford) ...... Film developer, Paper developer, fixer, stopper and wetting stuff plus a selection of Ilford films (6 different ones).

Right now have I got this straight.

First I go in the dark room and turn on the safe light {REMOVED THIS BIT}.
Pop open the canister and somehow get the film into the film developing tank.
Add the correct concentration of film developer at the right temperature.
Replace the lid.
Sit and wait for the desired time (do i move the canister about?)
Pour out the chemicals (can I re-use them?)
Pour in the stopper.
Replace the lid.
Sit and wait for the desired time.
Pour out the chemical (again can I re-use them?).
Pour in the fixer. SWAPPED FIXER AND STOP AROUND. (THANKS!!)
Replace the lid.
Sit and wait for the desired time.
Pour out the chemical (again can I re-use them?).
Remove the film and use the film squeegy to remove any liquid before hanging it to dry.

Is that about right or have I no idea?

Is there a really good tutorial on line?

Would anyone suggest a particular book?

Oh and I got an Axomat 5 standard enlarger for B&W..... Anyone got a manual or know where I can find one even PDF?


Then for the prints....
 
Are you using the Ilford Multigrade system?

****Don't turn on the safelight when you're loading the film onto the spiral***
 
RaglanSurf said:
Are you using the Ilford Multigrade system?
Click to expand...

Is that the set of Ilford chemicals ?

RaglanSurf said:
****Don't turn on the safelight when you're loading the film onto the spiral***
Click to expand...

Ok, wasn't aware of that, thanks!!

So I have to prise off the lid of the film and feed it into the spiral thing in complete darkness ?
 
All the messing about loading film into the spiral must be performed in the dark, yes. Safe light's for the printing end of things :)

Also - one way to make things easier, if you're using your fancy 35mm is to have a look at the custom settings, and set it so it doesn't wind the film leader into the canister. That way, you can trim the leader edge and get it just into the spiral (just past the ball bearings) before turning the light out. Makes it easier for the first couple of films, 'till you get used to it.
 
TheBigYin said:
All the messing about loading film into the spiral must be performed in the dark, yes.
Click to expand...

It's a shame the end doesn't stay out then, I am sure that that would be easier. Is there an easy way to do this, I am sure there is as some people do this in a bag!
 
ilford multigrade is the paper - you use different filters / filter settings on the enlarger to get different grades of contrast out of your prints.
 
TheBigYin said:
ilford multigrade is the paper - you use different filters / filter settings on the enlarger to get different grades of contrast out of your prints.
Click to expand...

I have a very large box of assorted paper of various different brands including Ilford and Kodak.

Will go and check what they are and pop back.....
 
cowasaki said:
Is that the set of Ilford chemicals ?



Ok, wasn't aware of that, thanks!!

So I have to prise off the lid of the film and feed it into the spiral thing in complete darkness ?
Click to expand...

Multigrade is a system of gels that fit between the lens on the enlarger and you paper, they change the contrast of the paper when printing rather than having to buy different grades of paper.

Ilford site

And yes, you have to load film onto spiral in TOTAL darkness, practice with an old roll of film in daylight first until you can see how everything works, then with your eyes closed and keep doing it until you feel you've cracked it. Don't turn the light on until you've got the lid on the tank.
 
cowasaki said:
It's a shame the end doesn't stay out then, I am sure that that would be easier. Is there an easy way to do this, I am sure there is as some people do this in a bag!
Click to expand...

It's not that difficult when you get used to it. Knock the film cap off, pull the spool out, throw the scratchy metal bits far away from your film, feel for the tapered end of the leader, and snip it across, rounding the corners if you can. Then "just" load it in. It's a 2 minute job, either in a darkened room, or the changing bag, tbh, once you get used to it. Best tip is to just shoot a gash roll of B&W, something with nothing you can't repeat, and just go for it. Worst case, you'll have a roll that you can practice loading in daylight 'cos you beggared it up :shrug:
 
Loading the film should be done in complete darkness.

Only use safelights for printing.

A useful tip for checking light tightness of a darkroom is to sit in it for 30 minutes in daylight, you'll be amazed how much light comes in.

You should agitate the tank during processing, some people use the twirly thing in the top, some invert the tank, I tend to do both.
Don't invert tank if you are using a Paterson tank prior to the Super system 4 as they all leak.

When you first pour in the dev, tapping the tank sharply on the workbench can help dislodge any air bubbles.

The correct order is Dev / Stop (or water) / Fix, then wash.

There are various thoughts on film washing, I've always used a Paterson washer, which is a hose that plugs into the top of the tank. Although in these days of water shortages etc. some people recommend filling the tank and emptying multiple times (6 from memory)

After washing rinse aid can be used to reduce smearing.

A useful site is : http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php

As for reusing chemicals, usually you can reuse fixer and stop
but the Dev will depend on manufacturer and dilution. Its RTFM.

Other tips for loading films (in addition to practising with a spare film as mentioned above)

Make sure the spirals are bone dry
Put every thing you need in to a large dev dish, then you know its all there and not rolling about the darkroom somewhere.

Items needed :

Tank (in bits)
Spiral
Scissors
Bottle opener for opening film canisters
Lightproof bag - if everything goes pear shape you can throw everything in here and go for a fag / cup of tea while you calm down !
 
cowasaki said:
Add the correct concentration of film developer at the right temperature.
Replace the lid.
Sit and wait for the desired time (do i move the canister about?)
I tend to invert the tank 3 times, then tap it on the sinktop once ot dislodge bubbles, once a minute throughout dev. time

Pour out the chemicals (can I re-use them?)
depends on the chemicals - best to check the ilford site

Pour in the stopper.
Replace the lid.
Sit and wait for the desired time.
Pour out the chemical (again can I re-use them?).
Stop before fix - stop bath will probably change colour when needs replacing

Pour in the fixer.
Replace the lid.
Sit and wait for the desired time. (agitate every minute...)
Pour out the chemical (again can I re-use them?).
Fix will probably last quite a few films - can be tested by taking the bit of film leader you cut off earlier, and dipping in a capful of the solution. Observe time it takes to clear the film. Double this time is your fixing time. If film hasn't cleared in 5 minutes, throw fix out and mix up some more.

Rinse film after fixing - I use the "ilford method" - fill tank with recommended amount of water (300ml for patterson tank and 1 roll 35mm), invert 5 times. throw water out. Refill, invert 10 times, throuw out. Refill, invert 20 times, throw out, refill with 500ml water with 1 drop of ecover (other washing up liquids are available - this was under the sink:lol:). remove funnel part of tank, slosh film around and remove film from spiral. Pass it between your first and second fingers instead of squeegee. Hang to Dry.
Click to expand...

Oh forgot the important step -

examine negatives with a smug grin / hail of expletives as appropriate
wash your hands and kit thoroughly
open a beer and leave the negs to dry thoroughly (preferably overnight) as the emulsion seems to "cure" and get considerably less prone to scratching.
 
Right now for the paper.....

Ilford

Box MG1V RC deluxe 9x14cm
Box IB3.1P 10x8inch
Box B1-1P soft glossy 10x8inch
2 packs MGRC 8x10inch
2 packs Bromide B2-24K normal/semi matt 10x12inch
4 packs IB2-24K 10x12inch

Kodak

Box Bromesko IFL.2D normal 10x12inch
Box Bromesko IFL.1D soft 10x12inch
2 packs Bromesko WL.2D silk 6.5x8.5inch
2 packs Bromide WSG.3D 10x12inch
1 pack Bromide WSG.2S 8x10inch (projection transparent paper)

Agfa

1 pack Brovira BW119 extra white lustre 8x10inch

Paterson

1 pack Acugrade 5x7inch

Kentmere

1 box D.WT2 glossy 8x10inch
1 box FBVC glossy 8x10inch

&

2 massive rolls of 4 inch wide paper for doing batches of 6"x4" prints. Not sure of the brand as they are in sealed black bags at the moment.

Not sure where to start with these but I might buy some standard Ilford paper to try before I ruin some of the above vintage paper that I might never be able to replace.....
 
RaglanSurf said:
Multigrade is a system of gels that fit between the lens on the enlarger and you paper, they change the contrast of the paper when printing rather than having to buy different grades of paper.

Ilford site
Click to expand...

Yes there is a loader on the enlarger for these and a box of Ilford gels to stick in there. Another thing I missed off the list (It filled my car!)
 
Darrren

When I first started I found it hard in complete darkness, when winding the film onto to the spool so I practised with an old film in the day light until I was confident then tried in the darkness it takes a bit of getting used to but then its easy just take your time winding it on to the developing spool, and as said complete darkness not with the red light on, some of the chemical you can reuse as long as their not to discoloured

The multi grade filters are red pinky coloured ones in the booklet thing, they go in the top carrier
 
Just Dave said:
Darrren

When I first started I found it hard in complete darkness, when winding the film onto to the spool so I practised with an old film in the day light until I was confident then tried in the darkness it takes a bit of getting used to but then its easy just take your time winding it on to the developing spool, and as said complete darkness not with the red light on, some of the chemical you can reuse as long as their not to discoloured

The multi grade filters are red ones in the booklet thing pinky coloured
Click to expand...

Ok, will check that.

There is some great stuff there. I think I am going to get a few rolls of out of date film of ebay and practice with a couple ! Will probably buy the new paper/chemicals etc that go together from Ilford just to try until I am confident to try other papers etc. Some of that paper is going to be irreplaceable so I don't want to waste it practicing.

Think I do need to find a manual for the enlarger even if I have to buy one :lol:
 
TheBigYin said:
Oh forgot the important step -

examine negatives with a smug grin / hail of expletives as appropriate
wash your hands and kit thoroughly
open a beer and leave the negs to dry thoroughly (preferably overnight) as the emulsion seems to "cure" and get considerably less prone to scratching.
Click to expand...

So that will probably be...

examine negatives with a hail of expletives.
Slam the door as I leave the dark room and studio.
wash your hands and kit thoroughly.
Curse and pick up D700.... Wonder why I am bothering...
open a beer and leave the negs to dry thoroughly (preferably overnight) as the emulsion seems to "cure" and get considerably less prone to scratching.
Find one decent image in the four reels I have taken, be really pleased and order some more film.
 
2 massive rolls of 4 inch wide paper for doing batches of 6"x4" prints

think their Kodak and about 200 yds long from what I remember

Clicky To Manual £9.95, still looking for a pdf for you I never had a manual just used trail and error,
 
Cowaski, PM me your address. I have a guide to using Ilford's Multigrade system that you're more than welcome to. I only dev and scan my films now and I don't have any printing kit left so won't need it.
 
RaglanSurf said:
Cowaski, PM me your address. I have a guide to using Ilford's Multigrade system that you're more than welcome to. I only dev and scan my films now and I don't have any printing kit left so won't need it.
Click to expand...

Oh, thanks muchly......

I am really looking forward to doing this....
 
Got your address, I'll try and get it in the post later today.
 
Darren,

Many years ago did some B&W film developing and printing. I always loaded the film into the canister in a bag. Once you practise a few times, it's quite easy.

I gave all my equipment away to the Scouts a long time ago but I still have a book:
"How to Take & Develop Black & White Photographs" by Michael Freeman.

You are welcome to it, if it helps. Just pm me your address and I will post to you.

Ken
 
Depending on your dexterity I'd be tempted to go for a changing bag. Although your hands are more confined at least you can sit down and relax while you're doing it which can help reduce building frustration as you fail again to get the film on the reel. If you're using the patterson type reels with the ball bearings make sure you can move them with a finger nail before trying to load the film, the can stick in position after drying and make your life hell.
 
john-oh said:
Lightproof bag - if everything goes pear shape you can throw everything in here and go for a fag / cup of tea while you calm down !
Click to expand...

Wise words indeed :D
 
Nikon Ken said:
Darren,

Many years ago did some B&W film developing and printing. I always loaded the film into the canister in a bag. Once you practise a few times, it's quite easy.

I gave all my equipment away to the Scouts a long time ago but I still have a book:
"How to Take & Develop Black & White Photographs" by Michael Freeman.

You are welcome to it, if it helps. Just pm me your address and I will post to you.

Ken
Click to expand...

I will PM you now that is most kind. Thanks a lot.
 
What a top lot of people we have in the film section. TP itself is fun of great and generous people then come here and it gets even better. I have posted a thread to ask for peoples help with a new arm of my hobby and two generous people are sending me things they have finished with.

A big thanks to everyone and no doubt I will be asking many questions for weeks :)
 
Nick and Ken,

What can I say? Many thanks for the books from both of you I have had a very quick scan through them as the posty has only just delivered them. They look really helpful and a most generous gift.

THANK YOU BOTH



Darren
 
My dark room is DARK very DARK! Just fitted the flush lights to the ceiling after making little houses to go above them blocking anything coming through. It is a most strange sensation a new level of blackness. Even after 10 minutes there is not a hint of dark from anywhere (other than under the door where the carpet will be. I blocked it temporarily but has a draft excluder as a more permanent device. The safe light is fitted to the ceiling too with another pull cord (easily distinguishable by location!).
 
cowasaki said:
Nick and Ken,

What can I say? Many thanks for the books from both of you I have had a very quick scan through them as the posty has only just delivered them. They look really helpful and a most generous gift.

THANK YOU BOTH



Darren
Click to expand...

You're welcome Darren, glad to know it's gone to a good home. Look forward to seeing the results :thumbs:
 
RaglanSurf said:
You're welcome Darren, glad to know it's gone to a good home. Look forward to seeing the results :thumbs:
Click to expand...

I am trying to avoid rushing the final bits of the studio/dark room project but now that I have pretty much everything there it is tempting !! I will probably be up and running together with all the new chemicals etc in a couple of weeks but unfortunately that coincides with a silly busy month at work (1 day off in 19 days !!). I will take them with me tonight and if I get a chance I will have a read whilst I am having a break.
 
Another vote for trying loading in daylight. Practice while just watching TV until you can do it without looking. Then try a couple of times in the dark. Once you get the feel for it it's honestly not too difficult.

Used to do the same thing with guns. We had to be able to strip and reassemble them in total darkness while wearing a gas mask. ;) ooo errr! :)
 
AliB said:
Another vote for trying loading in daylight. Practice while just watching TV until you can do it without looking. Then try a couple of times in the dark. Once you get the feel for it it's honestly not too difficult.

Used to do the same thing with guns. We had to be able to strip and reassemble them in total darkness while wearing a gas mask. ;) ooo errr! :)
Click to expand...

What you get up to in the privacy of your own home is entirely your business ;)
 
Well they certainly didn't let us take the things home James!

Just as well really I'm bad enough in the kitchen without a gun around! ;)
 
AliB said:
Well they certainly didn't let us take the things home James!

Just as well really I'm bad enough in the kitchen without a gun around! ;)
Click to expand...

Another person to add to the "do not annoy list" with arkady etc......
 
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