Trying to get fast moving owl in focu

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Very difficult getting a bird, moving towards me, in focus. It was late afternoon and very shady so not much light. I used ISO 1600. The lens (Nikon 70 - 300 f4.5-5.6) was not a patch on my 200-400 f4 for IQ however it was much easier to handle. I am wondering now whether I should have used manual focus rather than AF. What do you guys think?
 
on my canon 50D if I was in that position I would have been using AI servo mode for the focusing, but I do not know what that would be on your nikon.

Also if the bird was coming at you faster than the AF could keep up it would make it out of focus too, I maybe wrong on this, but I am sure someone wil be along shortly to correct me..

On your flickr picture go to share copy the BB code and then post it using the link buton at the top of the text box
 
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Similar problem focusing on motorbikes in the days of manual focus. Simple solution for shallow depth of field was to just focus on point ahead of where they were, and wait for them to ride into focus before releasing. so yeah, I'd say avoid the problem, go manual.
 
I remember all to vividly the pre-focussing on motorbikes days, and while teflon-mike's suggestions are valid, the OP has a nikon D3, which in itself should be more than capable of keeping the owl in focus given correct technique.

According to the exif, you were at iso 1600, and given the technical quality of the posted shot, I'm guessing that this is a fairly hefty crop. Normally a D3 wouldnt show this much noise with minimal cropping at iso 1600.

If I'm right (could be wrong), then I'd suggest you need to concentrate on filling the frame when shooting rather than cropping afterwards. In my opinion, this is what has caused the loss in quality, as if you look at the owls eyes, there is definition in the pupils.

Set your camera to continuous AF, use a single AF point for now - just the central one at the moment - and try and fill the frame in camera as you want the final image to look.

Oh, and the 200-400 should be used ahead of the 70-300 whenever possible, its a miles better lens - just look at Andy Rouse's photos if you need to see what that combo is capable of.
 
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