To filter or not.

swiftflo

swiftflo

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Peter
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Just starting to think about filters(or not).

What is the point in adding an extra piece of glass to the lens when all the necessary adjustments can be carried out with your editing software, ie Aperture, PSP plus Nik software.

Am I thinking correctly ?.
 
Using that logic, what's the point in taking a photo at all if you can just knock something up in Photoshop?
 
Get it right in camera if possible :)
 
swiftflo said:
Am I thinking correctly ?.
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I don't think so...you're starting out with the wrong mindset, you'll always get the best shots by making the most of them at the time of taking, the best approach is to look at editing as a way of getting the very best out of already very good shots

Simon
 
there are certain things that a filter will do that no software can replicate.

spike
 
At the start of my photography I bought a LOAD of filters thinking it would be a cheap way to make my photos amazing - and that didn't really work. Now they are all in the draw just collecting dust, I NEVER use them. The only filters I use are UV filters for protection on every lens. But filters for effects - I wouldn't recommend them unless you're a landscape photographer then some NDs and ND grads might be necessery to manipulate exposures.
 
Polarising Filter plus ND and ND Grads are all I use now.
Plus a UV filter when sticky hands are about :D
 
As people has said above if you're doing landscape get ND grads and a polariser.

Polarisers can't be replicated in PP as they effect the light waves and ND grads can but not very well.
 
Suvv said:
Polarising Filter plus ND and ND Grads are all I use now.
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^^^ This. :thumbs:

You can not replicate the effect of a polariser in post and a ND allows you to get shots that could otherwise be impossible due to light...

ND grads can be done in post however, it's always easier to do it in the field.
 
I spent a lot of money on some top quality UV filters when I first started out. I bought mainly Hoya, but there were other makes too. To be honest, I wish I'd put the money towards something useful instead as all the filters did was seem to make my images soft. Now for protection I use the lens hood instead and only use a filter in very adverse weather conditions.
The only other filters I use occasionally now are CPL ones, I've not got into ND's at all as I don't do many landscapes or long exposures.
 
Reading the post's I guess my thinking was wrong and so stand corrected.
 
As someone who shoots landscapes almost exclusively, I couldn't recommend grads highly enough.

Frankly, and while I may take a slightly harder line on this than most, adjusting the *exposure* in software is a misnomer. You are NOT adjusting the exposure, you are moving a slider which gives the apparent effect of doing so. Information that is missing, be it due to highlight or shadow, cannot be fabricated so as to accurately represent the scene at the time. Granted, software does an OK job from what very little information might be in said under or over exposed areas, but then you need to ask yourself whether OK is good enough. For me, it isn't, so I use grads and would recommend them to anyone.

You could, I guess, exposure merge (Not HDR), but then again, for any non-static scene, will this be good enough?

Get it right in camera is the take home message :)
 
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Woodsy said:
As someone who shoots landscapes almost exclusively, I couldn't recommend grads highly enough.

Frankly, and while I may take a slightly harder line on this than most, adjusting the *exposure* in software is a misnomer. You are NOT adjusting the exposure, you are moving a slider which gives the apparent effect of doing so. Information that is missing, be it due to highlight or shadow, cannot be fabricated so as to accurately represent the scene at the time. Granted, software does an OK job from what very little information might be in said under or over exposed areas, but then you need to ask yourself whether OK is good enough. For me, it isn't, so I use grads and would recommend them to anyone.

You could, I guess, exposure merge (Not HDR), but then again, for any non-static scene, will this be good enough?

Get it right in camera is the take home message :)
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Very informative.

Now the big question - which filters would you advise me to get for the 52mm lens on my D90, brand and stops ?.
 
In order of usefulness -

  • CP - Can be used to enhance an image in a way that's totally impossible with software.
  • GND - Has an effect that can be replicated in software, but never with equally good results.
  • ND - Specialised uses where a very slow shutter speed is required in bright scenes.
  • Special Effect Filters - things like Star filters - Can often be replicated in software (if you should ever be sad enough to want to).
  • Coloured filters - Can normally be replicated easily in software.
  • UV/so-called 'Protective' Filters - Can easily be replicated by using the 'Blur' and 'Lens Flare' tools in Photoshop.
 
hollis_f said:
In order of usefulness -

  • Special Effect Filters - things like Star filters - Can often be replicated in software (if you should ever be sad enough to want to).
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You will also get a pleasing star effect if you shoot at small apertures, I'll sometimes use a smaller than necessary aperture if I want lights to star out.
 
a filter will certainly protect your lens from dust and scratches - much better to replace the filter than the whole lens!
 
markmullen said:
Oh christ Amy, what have you done? :lol:

You only have to search on UV filters to see opinion is very very very very very divided on their use.
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I wish there was still a popcorn smilie! :thinking:
 
ok. I'll start.

I never use UV filters. Why spend a fortune on a lens then add a (usually) cheap bit of glass to the front. A lens hood offers enough protection for me.

And now, let the debate begin......
 
S'pose I had better put my two'penceworth in.
I always carry a protector filter in my bag for when on gritstone and the wind howling, (yes, it happens regular) or on a beach in same conditions when carrying the camera. I usually take it of before shooting though. The only other filter I use is a PL.
 
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