The Official Fuji X Pro 1 Thread

Raymond Lin said:
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How come the 2nd photo makes the lens look smaller, is it just the angle?
 
SsSsSsSsSnake said:
How are you liking the X Pro 1 Raymond?
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Great in the hand. I love the way it handles.
Focus is slow.
LCD is dreadful...I can't tell if the photo is in focus or not when reviewing.
Optical viewfinder is useless for composition. I have been used to SLR with 100% coverage so having to guess really messes with my photo. EVF is meh, the contrast in the EVF leaves a lot to be desired.


But...

The images when i get out of it is very good but I don't trust the LCD to tell me at the time of shooting whether i nailed the shot so if I am at a job, this is a no no as I NEED to know I nailed the focus.

Then again, it's like a £300 camera, it is not a £1700 X-Pro 2. or the XT-2. I'll wait when those prices low then upgrade.
 
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I'd say for the money it's a good camera to get into the Fuji line up. The XE-2 might be worth a consideration as it's newer generation in sensor but lacks the viewfinder.
 
Ive got an XT20 Raymond but always fancied an X Pro1 for the handling and earlier trans version
 
Ah, if you have the XT20 then you might find the focus lacking, my only point of reference is the focus in my 5D mk 3 and now mk4, which smokes the Fuji naturally but for £220 though, it's a fun camera.
 
Raymond Lin said:
I'd say for the money it's a good camera to get into the Fuji line up. The XE-2 might be worth a consideration as it's newer generation in sensor but lacks the optical viewfinder.
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ftfy. The X-E2 still has the EVF and it is quite a bit faster than the X-Pro1. It has received a lot of updates making it on a par with the X-T10. It shares a similar body style to the X-Pro1. It can be bought for similar money on the second hand market.

Just one thing though.............. It's not an X-Pro1
 
Barrysprout said:
ftfy. The X-E2 still has the EVF and it is quite a bit faster than the X-Pro1. It has received a lot of updates making it on a par with the X-T10. It shares a similar body style to the X-Pro1. It can be bought for similar money on the second hand market.

Just one thing though.............. It's not an X-Pro1
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The X-Pro1 has character. The X-E2, fine though it is, hasn't. TBH neither has the X-T2!
 
I have a feeling the X-Pro 1 prices has bottomed out and eventually will be worth more than they are now, although never in the price of it when new. I feel like this camera holds some value being the first flagship of the X-mount rangefinder type of camera.
 
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I think it's unfair to compare it with a DSLR - it's a first gen mirrorless. I find it fine for AF - a bit slow and clunky but I've been used to manual focus. I don't have a problem using the OVF either - in fact, I use it mostly. The images are just lovely and it is just such great quality.
 
Rosedalelad said:
I think it's unfair to compare it with a DSLR - it's a first gen mirrorless. I find it fine for AF - a bit slow and clunky but I've been used to manual focus. I don't have a problem using the OVF either - in fact, I use it mostly. The images are just lovely and it is just such great quality.
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Well, the only frame of reference is my DSLR, fair or not, it is my experience and can only comment on my experience.
 
SsSsSsSsSnake said:
don't worry Peter,tomorrow it will be in good hands :exit::fuji:
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You'll love it.

I can't part with mine, they're far from perfect but I love using them (more than my xp2!). For the price you've paid it's a no brainer, if you're not happy with it you'll get your money back
 
Cheers David
Had the x100 series xe series and xt10 now 20 but never a pro so really looking forward to using it
 
Xpro 1 in my hands its a beast, but feels really good.

ok I will need to get a diopter thingy, so would welcome any help please.

My reading glasses prescription is
Right Sph 0.75 Cyl 1.50 Axis 120 ADD +250DS whatever that means
Left Sph 0.75 Cyl 0.75 Axis 471/2
now if you can work that out your a better man than me ,plus i understand it starts at -1? so any idea what i need.
plus where do i order from, apparently the nikon ones are ok?

thanks for looking
 
SsSsSsSsSnake said:
Xpro 1 in my hands its a beast, but feels really good.

ok I will need to get a diopter thingy, so would welcome any help please.

My reading glasses prescription is
Right Sph 0.75 Cyl 1.50 Axis 120 ADD +250DS whatever that means
Left Sph 0.75 Cyl 0.75 Axis 471/2
now if you can work that out your a better man than me ,plus i understand it starts at -1? so any idea what i need.
plus where do i order from, apparently the nikon ones are ok?

thanks for looking
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I would go for a +2 based on that. Robert White sell Voigtlander ones which are perfect. I have a +2 in mine.

PS just re-read and noticed that's your Reading script. Do you shoot with your reading glasses? If not, you need to check your distance script.
 
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thanks Stephen ,no I don't shoot with my reading glasses on.
isn't the distance script the ADD+ 250ds?

edit,
i don't wear glasses for distance
 
Stephen if this helps, when I put on my reading glasses(only ones i need) the viewfinder etc was just perfect so i think you were correct in the first place
 
ok its an add 2.50
does that mean i need a 3.50 so would a 3 or a 4 be better?
The Add, short for Reading Addition, is the additional correction required for reading, this can be used to make either reading glasses, bifocal glasses or Varifocal glasses.


This figure is an indication of how much extra power is required ‘on top’ of the distance prescription for near or intermediate glasses. This extra power will ALWAYS be the same for each eye and may only appear once on your prescription but it is understood to be meant for both eyes. The measurement is the Dioptre, and most values range from +0.50 to +3.50 and will go up in steps of 0.25.


The 'addition' is only required if the glasses are going to be used for reading or close work. If your glasses are for distance only, this will not be an issue. Sometimes opticians use the word 'Add' or 'Near' instead of 'addition'. They may only write it once, but it normally applies to both eyes and is almost always the same value for both eyes (e.g. 'Add' +2.50 - should be entered for both eyes).
 
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I think Robert White sell dioptres in whole number strengths (ie +2 or +3). I bought both and returned the one I didn't need but check that this is OK first
 
I would round up to the nearest whole if you're going for a positive number. As Andrew says, order 2 and send the other one back but double check with them. They said they would have accepted my return but it was correct.

Normally you are viewing distance through a viewfinder, even for the "text" display of aperture etc.
 
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thank'you,I just rang an optician but they were busy but the assistant said the distance was the +0.75 and the ADD + 2.50 was the reading, what she couldn't answer was do i add the 2 together?lol
 
Ok so if its for distance round up my +0.75 to 1.0 add another for the -1 of the pro it makes +2
yet if my reading glasses that are +2.50 make it clear surely i should need a +3 or +4 (ideal +3.5)

edit
just found a pair of distance glasses they made for me which i don't use but they don't help with the camera,definately its the reading ones i need so a plus 3 and 4 i will order.
thanks for your advice .
 
actually thats wrong surely, if a +2.50 glasses makes it correct shouldn't a 2.50 diopter make it right also,why do we add another for the minus,doesnt it go over the original?
 
The idea is to get to zero for the prescription you need for distance viewing. The "standard" Pro1 is minus 1. So without any prescription correction, you would need a plus 1 to get to zero. Add that plus 1 to your distance correction prescription and round up.
 
Stephen thanks for perservering with this but if my reading glasses which is a +2.50 gives me ideal view when looking through the VF and my distance glasses dont surely it should be based on my reading scrip shouldnt it?sorry if i sound thick lol
 
I see your point. Assuming you DON'T want to use your reading specs BUT they offer a clear view, then add +1 to your +3.5 to get +4.5 correction lens. In this case I'd be tempted to round down to +4 "just in case".

EDIT no, go to +3 as your reading glasses have already effectively added a +1.
 
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I'm short sighted -5 and when I look through the viewfinder on my XP1 things aren't sharp, so as the viewfinder is -1 if I add a +1 when looking through with my glasses on it should be sharp ?
 
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