The New Lomography MC-A. The new AF point and shoot.

What you need then is a half frame camera that has a built in cutting knife and allows cassette to cassette film transport. A half frame Exakta - not that they made half frame versions...
 
I quite like the surprise of not knowing what’s coming back from the lab :ROFLMAO:
 
As I don't use the rear screen when I use a digital camera, I also have the surprise when I download the results. I find film far more predictable.
 
I think the difference with the Pentax 17 was that they still had engineers who had worked on the original film SLRs and they used it as a means of training a new generation in the tooling and design of such cameras - and they made a big deal of getting the winder mechanism right.
Latest from Ricoh suggests that they have not given up the film project, if you read between lines, apparently, but nor have they necessarily given up on DSLRs too.
 
Had a little trip out today with my dog. Camera worked flawlessly and no mini advance winds. I made sure I was using the full lever travel. I’m on about frame 26-27. Wanted to finish the roll but it rained heavily, don’t want the camera to melt lol! Plus it’s the furthest I’ve walked since new year, my leg and ankle are still 4 sizes larger than normal!
 
I've only taken 2 shots since my last post. Weather looks better tomorrow so may just rattle through the remaining half film.

@srichards - hardly the best response from Lomo. Hope you find out soon whether it's repair, replace or refund.

There's 3 of us with the same camera and I think everyone has used different film so it'll be interesting to see whether it's just the lomo chrome that is the problem or there's problems with other brands of film.
 
There's 3 of us with the same camera and I think everyone has used different film so it'll be interesting to see whether it's just the lomo chrome that is the problem or there's problems with other brands of film.
There’s a few reviewers claiming thicker films are causing issues. Normal ‘consumer’ film is okay. I’ve got hp5 in mine, I’d consider that basic consumer grade. I almost tried something different but thought I’d see how one of my usuals turned out with it, glad I did now.

The thicker stuff is putting a strain on the sprockets etc., according to others. It’s all speculation until Lomo give us their opinion, if they ever do.
 
There’s a few reviewers claiming thicker films are causing issues. Normal ‘consumer’ film is okay. I’ve got hp5 in mine, I’d consider that basic consumer grade. I almost tried something different but thought I’d see how one of my usuals turned out with it, glad I did now.

The thicker stuff is putting a strain on the sprockets etc., according to others. It’s all speculation until Lomo give us their opinion, if they ever do.

That's why I wanted a go with some XP2 as that I've never had a problem with it in anything. But the product description does say it works with any 35mm film so Lomo have shot themselves in the foot if it doesn't work with theirs and other slightly weird films.
 
That's why I wanted a go with some XP2 as that I've never had a problem with it in anything. But the product description does say it works with any 35mm film so Lomo have shot themselves in the foot if it doesn't work with theirs and other slightly weird films.
I’m just going off others with issues and what they’ve said. You would imagine it’d work with their film though! Surely they tested it with their own?

The camera obviously has some issue, whether it’s film thickness or not. I just hope it gets sorted out and they don’t ditch the mc-a and revert back to all plastic bodies and lenses.
I haven’t got £8000+ to drop on a new leica, my wife would have my Crown Jewels for earrings.

Trouble is finding the actual problem from the user errors. I’m still seeing some idiotic complaints from people loading and rewinding incorrectly, one rewound it the wrong way and complained about creased film. I showed the manual to my wife, she’s never used a film camera and she didn’t have a clue how to load the film. The manual is vague in this area, I think Lomo should do a YouTube video for the basics to show people how it all works! We might think it’s easy but for new to film people they’ve probably never even seen film before. Did you see the posts on Reddit on about returning theirs because of the lens focus noise and not having the extras in the box(they’re all packed in the side compartment if you read this and don’t know) :ROFLMAO:
 
I mentioned the film loading not having a good diagram in the pdf manual as well. It's a bit silly not to.

I have a feeling lomo did a film loading video but it was a bit vague. I saw someone else do one and they found the door flapped back on them and it was quite tricky to get the end of the film through the spool slot. The angle of the door is too upright to stay open easily and that makes it more difficult than it should be.
 
I found it easier to turn the camera and have the door at the top when I loaded, kept it open with my left thumb. The door is a bit of a hindrance, especially when it’s at the side and you’re right handed. I can’t see why it couldn’t open fully flat.

Who are we to complain? The designers obviously knew best…….
 
Just watched a review on YouTube from a guy in Japan. He’s put a few rolls through his and the first roll had odd spacing and overlaps. His first review mentioned mini winds on the lever, so he’s tried the last roll making sure he advanced all the way to the lever stop and had no overlaps. This was watched using YouTube translating the video.

This echos my experience so far too. Everything worked great last outing, ensuring the lever used its full travel. Normally I just flick a lever across single handed but last time I took care with moving the lever all the way to the end stop. I may not have been doing this just using my thumb.
 
I was definitely pushing on mine and it wasn't registering the frame increase at all. The rollei had the same issues with needing a good old push and I had no issues with gaps and such like with that one. The Lomo was all over the show. Over lapped on a couple of frames even with a firm wind and left different sized gaps as the frame counter didn't work. IMG_1130.JPG
 
b****r!

Bet my first lot of shots are almost like double exposures now you’ve said that :ROFLMAO:

Going to try and finish the roll this weekend if the weather, work and wife allow!
 
"Issue - something that proceeds or comes from a source".

Ergo, "without issue" = with zero result.

I hope I'm wrong.
 
This guy has shot 7 rolls of various things in his. Lomo replaced it as first one just had frame over laps. Second one failed to count frames on one roll but didn't seem to stop it taking pictures. Strange. That also had over laps. He does try everything on it and it's fine other than the transport problem really. Some shots are OOF but he seems to have forgotten that it only has centre point focus and most of the missed ones he seems to have something off centre that it was expected to focus on. Or the focus/recompose method somehow is a bit janky maybe? I don't remember having anything that off with mine.

View: https://youtu.be/2fBg6lqce44?si=RQr8rFuSV0ilEYUx
 
ALL of my shots have been focus and recompose, hope it’s worked! I’ve not tried the zone focus on it yet. One of the selling points was autofocus.

I’ll finish my first roll this weekend if the weather plays ball. So far it’s rained every free time I’ve had.
 
You’re not boosting my confidence :ROFLMAO:

I’m just praying the b****r rewinds ok once I’ve got to the end!
 
Another with issues:

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kBw_D8XaVZ8


I think Lomo should take their camera to a repairer and find out what they've done wrong so they can sort out future ones. It's ok having weird framing on £50 cameras but one that is nearly £500 just shouldn't.
Are the corners really that soft or has that photographer edited to add a soft vignette?
 
Another with issues:

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kBw_D8XaVZ8


I think Lomo should take their camera to a repairer and find out what they've done wrong so they can sort out future ones. It's ok having weird framing on £50 cameras but one that is nearly £500 just shouldn't.

Thanks for sharing this. Shame about the overlapping frames - I hope LOMO is watching and coming up with a plan to sort out the issue - because honestly apart from that this camera could be exactly what I'm looking for.

Another minor thing that emerges from the samples in this video is the really poor quality/resolution towards the frame borders. This is similar to the Olympus XA and XA4 I used to have, which didn't appeal to me at all.

But perhaps given the video is in Helsinki and the light is poor, he was shooting wide open or thereabouts?
 
Asked Lomo for a replacement. I wasn't going to but I decided to be optimistic. I may regret this choice!
Have they sent you a replacement yet? They’re all still showing as no stock on the website. Wondering if they’re looking into any issues.

I’ve also thought that any early adopters may have been sent repackaged test models. Have they commented on any of the problems?
 
Have they sent you a replacement yet? They’re all still showing as no stock on the website. Wondering if they’re looking into any issues.

I’ve also thought that any early adopters may have been sent repackaged test models. Have they commented on any of the problems?

Yes. It's just been sent. :banana:

Website is showing pre order and shipping in January ie this month.


I think there is some corner darkness but supposedly it is only really bad at f2.8 but program mode does like that aperture quite a bit. Soft images can also be caused by the film not laying properly flat so if it does have transport problems then I'd assume that would make it more likely as well.

Lomo MC-A with Lomo Chrome Classicolor by Suzy Richards, on Flickr
 
Transport problems due to the plate would make odd soft/focus areas but I think that is just that weird vintage/ tin type era stupid frame. What gave him the idea of using that frame with blurred corners on a review of the images! I’ve watched lots of reviews and none are anywhere near to being that soft. The video from nick above shows the corners are nothing like that, he even thinks the vignette is minimal. I tried to look at his other video to see if he’s used that added frame but most of his shots all have movement blur, intentional or not, so you can’t see his corners.
 
I will happily live with a vignette, it vanishes when you stop down.

Really don’t want corners that look like the ones on the review. They look like they’ve had a Vaseline smear lol!
 
Is anyone actually 100% happy with their copy with NO problems?
 
Is anyone actually 100% happy with their copy with NO problems?
I am. I’m only 90% through my first roll though so I’ve not had to rewind or had any scans done yet. Not had any advancing issues whatsoever nor had the frame counter stop working.
 
Just seen a couple of images showing a new piece inside the camera, a frame behind the shutter to stop the crooked frame alignment apparently.
I’ll try to find them again and post the shots.
 
I think they must’ve been oversized due to comments on space around things that were shot using the frame guide in the viewfinder. Like you say, this must crop them down but making all images now inline. I think this is a cheap (but quick fix) way to get out of adding a top row of sprockets. I watched the film move up and down when I loaded the film in mine because there’s only bottom sprockets pulling the film along.
 
I think they must’ve been oversized due to comments on space around things that were shot using the frame guide in the viewfinder. Like you say, this must crop them down but making all images now inline. I think this is a cheap (but quick fix) way to get out of adding a top row of sprockets. I watched the film move up and down when I loaded the film in mine because there’s only bottom sprockets pulling the film along.
I haven't handled an MC-A, or seen any disassembly images, but the sprocket wheel is likely more of a counter than being used for pulling the film. For simplicity, the take up spool will be doing the heavy work so a single sprocket shouldn't (in theory at least!) cause issues for spacing unless there's a design fault with the gearing connected to it to control the spacing.

I've used single sprockets and a 'controlling' take up spool on every 35mm camera I've built (somewhere around 350 including pinholes) without spacing issues.
 
Put that way, roll film cameras appear to function without sprockets.
 
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