

The full moon isn't the best time to photograph it due to lack of shadows. Much better to photograph the waning or waxing crescent
This was handheld at 400mm, 1/200th and F8.
The Moon-2 by Paul S Wharton, on Flickr
Paul
PDS said:What ISO did you use Paul???

The full moon isn't the best time to photograph it due to lack of shadows. Much better to photograph the waning or waxing crescent![]()
If you got the time then manual mode is better, otherwise spot meter mode is probably best.

going by what you guys have posted as pics, wont get nowhere near your quality, only have 300mm lens, still have a go tho all part of learning curve,
i'll be taking pics about 10 to-night, thanks for input guys

Please don't think I'm being mean but it looks a little over exposed![]()


This is my first attempt at shooting the moon..
Canon 500D, 55-250mm lens. 1/800 @ F5.6, ISO 200, and a MASSIVE crop. 250mm is way too short to capture any real detail, although I think this looks ok for my first attemptFeedback gratefully received!
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IMG-2677.jpg by R1ch85, on Flickr
This is my first attempt at shooting the moon..
Canon 500D, 55-250mm lens. 1/800 @ F5.6, ISO 200, and a MASSIVE crop. 250mm is way too short to capture any real detail, although I think this looks ok for my first attemptFeedback gratefully received!
Michael
did you have any problems with shimmering from the atmosphere? there are so many things to consider when trying to get a picture of the moon without astronomical photographic lenses. I have my camera and scope mounted on my tripod, but to be honest I would prefer a much sturdier head, but what I have does the job. As has been stated, the full moon is not the best of times to photograph due to lack of shadows. But to get some really good detail you take a fair few pics and then stack them in a programme such as registax I have not done this myself yet but do will do at some point. Another important factor as well is let your equipment acclimatize to the outside temperatures before taking your pics. I don't use a remote as I don't have one, sometimes I use the 2sec self timer instead to reduce shake.
Some of the ones I can across was
1 =cloud cover/haze
2 = focus
3 =tracking the moon
4= camera settings as its all manual with the lens I used
5= getting the right section of the moon to show up the craters
6 = camera shake or should I really say lens movement
7 = wired remote control still produced movement so used wireless instead
8= And finally wind, the slightest breeze had terrible lens movement
9= Cold, as the clearest time is usually mid winter late at night
That unedited photo I put up was at 2600mm and hours of waiting on several different days.
What atmospheric conditions can produce (unedited photo)
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Realspeed
Considering it's a massive crop, you have done very well indeed and for a first attempt,![]()
It's likely that the 55-250 will be sharper at f8 than f5.6 (almost all lenses are sharper when stopped down a bit, sometimes spectacularly so). I'd try with the same shutter speed, but f8 and ISO 400. I'd probably also try f11 and ISO800.
one from me.
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As others have said, I still think that full moon is not the best time to shoot as you don't get to see the detail of the craters brought out when they are casting shadows and the rims are in sunlight.
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I struggled with this also , after many attempts
Buster, I don't know what lens this was shot with, but I do know it was at f5.7, 1/100s ISO200. Most of the Canon lenses that can do 300mm have a max. aoperture of f5.6. Bu they are a lot sharper when stopped down a bit. Trying again with f8 and ISO400 may well give a better image.
Is there any post processing tips I could use to give the picture some added va va vooom!