The Fabulous Fuji X owners thread

saltireblue said:
It works on my X-H2 - press the playback button, wait a second then press and hold it will come up on screen that it has changed to card 2. Message disappears after a couple of seconds, but the camera stays in card 2 and you can delete all you want until you press and hold the playback button once more to change back to card 1
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But that is effectively the same as hitting the Playback button and then hitting Menu/OK if you have it set on Swap Card.

What I'd like to achieve is having Slot2 as the default without it switching back to Slot1 every time a shot is taken.
 
jknights said:
One option is to mark the images you want to keep then do an Erase All will delete all images that are not protected.
Click to expand...


Thanks but not really practical with the volume and speed that I'm talking about.

Besides, protecting an image is even more of a faff, given that you can't assign that to a function button.

I love the images that the Fuji achieves, and I love the camera but Fuji's menu system is about a decade behind the other three major manufacturers.
 
DemiLion said:
But that is effectively the same as hitting the Playback button and then hitting Menu/OK if you have it set on Swap Card.

What I'd like to achieve is having Slot2 as the default without it switching back to Slot1 every time a shot is taken.
Click to expand...
Yes but what is the big deal about Card1 v Card2?
Do you gave different sized cards?
I guess we dont understand the detail of your workflow.
 
DemiLion said:
X-H2s question, if I may....


I want Slot 2 (SD) to be the default on playback so that I can easily cull images.

However, despite using both 'Back Up' and 'Separate' in the Data Settings, once a shot has been taken the playback reverts to Slot 1 (CFe)
each and every time. Which I then have to reset. Both cards are recording Jpeg.

That may sound easy but when you are shooting in excess of 3k images a day and culling roughly 33% of them, two button presses for each action makes a massive difference.

Many thanks if you have any solutions! :)
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Is it important that images are only deleted from 1 card but kept on the other? On the X-T4 there is a setting to delete simultaneously from both cards no matter which one you are viewing, I assume the same thing can be set on an X-H2s
 
RichardC27 said:
Is it important that images are only deleted from 1 card but kept on the other? On the X-T4 there is a setting to delete simultaneously from both cards no matter which one you are viewing, I assume the same thing can be set on an X-H2s
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It can but doesn't appear to work when shooting Jpeg. Only RAW + Jpeg..
 
OK, I understand.
I use same sized cards 128GB for Slot1 (CFE) and Slot2 (SD) and use mine in overflow mode whereas you have yours in backup so you want to cull off the ?smaller? SD card.
 
jknights said:
OK, I understand.
I use same sized cards 128GB for Slot1 (CFE) and Slot2 (SD) and use mine in overflow mode whereas you have yours in backup so you want to cull off the ?smaller? SD card.
Click to expand...


The SD card is the working one being used for the transfer of images to the sales point.
 
I fancy having a recent photo capture printed professionally (as below), I had been using 'Peak Imaging' (Sheffield) for years for my printing requirements, but unfortunately they now have ceased trading.

Any advice please who I could use to print a monochrome Fuji file professionally with good quality results........something like a 18x12 size print..?

Advice/knowledge/experience appreciated.
Thank you.



Royal Enfield by APM Photography, on Flickr


Regards
peter
 
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macvisual said:
I fancy having a recent photo capture printed professionally (as below), I had been using 'Peak Imaging' (Sheffield) for years for my printing requirements, but unfortunately they now have ceased trading.

Any advice please who I could use to print a monochrome Fuji file professionally with good quality results........something like a 18x12 size print..?

Advice/knowledge/experience appreciated.
Thank you.



Royal Enfield by APM Photography, on Flickr


Regards
peter
Click to expand...
Peter. I use these guys, perfect

harmanlab.com

Harman Lab - UK Film Developing Lab

Black and White / Colour C41 Film developing, Photographic Printing, Film Scanning, Mounting and Framing. Mail Order Freepost, fast turnaround.
harmanlab.com harmanlab.com
 
macvisual said:
I fancy having a recent photo capture printed professionally (as below), I had been using 'Peak Imaging' (Sheffield) for years for my printing requirements, but unfortunately they now have ceased trading.

Any advice please who I could use to print a monochrome Fuji file professionally with good quality results........something like a 18x12 size print..?

Advice/knowledge/experience appreciated.
Thank you.



Royal Enfield by APM Photography, on Flickr


Regards
peter
Click to expand...

Trade Cavas Print (who advertise on TP) do all of my printing, and it's always top class.
 
I use my local lab - One Vision Imaging, but have also used the Fuji UK print service, when they have offers on, which seem to be pretty frequently.
 
macvisual said:
Scott 600cc two stroke - 3 gears



Scott 600 by APM Photography, on Flickr


X-E1
Click to expand...

As an ex-biker I can understand why he has modern gear (or also rides a modern bike during the week) as opposed to old fashioned open faced brain buckets and goggles, but it means this shot will unfortunately never be as good as your recent sidecar combination (y)
 
macvisual said:
I fancy having a recent photo capture printed professionally (as below), I had been using 'Peak Imaging' (Sheffield) for years for my printing requirements, but unfortunately they now have ceased trading.

Any advice please who I could use to print a monochrome Fuji file professionally with good quality results........something like a 18x12 size print..?

Advice/knowledge/experience appreciated.
Thank you.



Royal Enfield by APM Photography, on Flickr


Regards
peter
Click to expand...
I’ve used Saal Digital several times and always been happy with the results. They often have some pretty hefty vouchers available, too.
 
DS Colour labs down the road in Manc have served me well, they provide the icc profiles for their papers so you can import and get a couple of test shot’s printed
 
Well it`s a big move tomorrow.

Saarf London to Naarch ;)
Last day of work was Friday, and it`s been chaos since then :eek: Hopefully everything will work out, although I won`t be taking any pix for a while.

I`ll still be able to nose on my phone though :)
 
Hi everyone,

A bit late to this thread, considering a got my Fuji back in April. I have been a Nikon user and still have all of my Nikon gear. I cover weddings, family portraits etc and other bits and bobs, however, I have eased off on my workflow somewhat due to health issues etc. Anyway, I have the X100V and I absolutely love it, so much so, that I am seriously thinking of getting rid of all of my Nikon gear apart from one body and one long lens. It's not that I don't like the Nikon, but for me, I just love having the smaller body and fixed lens. Also, I have been a raw shooter, but I am trying my best to shoot jpeg and get a finished result in camera. To aid this, I am looking at buying the Nisi Pro filter kit and that's about it. Just wondered if anyone else in here has done a similar thing as mentioned above?
 
Moey said:
Hi everyone,

A bit late to this thread, considering a got my Fuji back in April. I have been a Nikon user and still have all of my Nikon gear. I cover weddings, family portraits etc and other bits and bobs, however, I have eased off on my workflow somewhat due to health issues etc. Anyway, I have the X100V and I absolutely love it, so much so, that I am seriously thinking of getting rid of all of my Nikon gear apart from one body and one long lens. It's not that I don't like the Nikon, but for me, I just love having the smaller body and fixed lens. Also, I have been a raw shooter, but I am trying my best to shoot jpeg and get a finished result in camera. To aid this, I am looking at buying the Nisi Pro filter kit and that's about it. Just wondered if anyone else in here has done a similar thing as mentioned above?
Click to expand...
Yup. Long term Nikon user who traded in all his Nikon stuff at the weekend. Got a nice 35mm f1.4 for my X-t2 and love the short amount of time we've had...

Took me a while to make the jump but when I realised I was not using the Nikon much, always reached for the Fuji when I went out, and that second hand prices are dropping on DSLR gear I jumped.

Don't wait the year I did, I reckon I lost a couple of hundred pounds (non scientific estimate)
 
Moey said:
Hi everyone,

A bit late to this thread, considering a got my Fuji back in April. I have been a Nikon user and still have all of my Nikon gear. I cover weddings, family portraits etc and other bits and bobs, however, I have eased off on my workflow somewhat due to health issues etc. Anyway, I have the X100V and I absolutely love it, so much so, that I am seriously thinking of getting rid of all of my Nikon gear apart from one body and one long lens. It's not that I don't like the Nikon, but for me, I just love having the smaller body and fixed lens. Also, I have been a raw shooter, but I am trying my best to shoot jpeg and get a finished result in camera. To aid this, I am looking at buying the Nisi Pro filter kit and that's about it. Just wondered if anyone else in here has done a similar thing as mentioned above?
Click to expand...
The problem in adjusting the film simulation values (ie shadows, etc) is that while they may work for the shot you’ve set up, swing round 180 degrees and take another shot and they all can be wrong

There probably is a solution in there but I would suggest only baking in very small adjustments and then treating it like a selected film, just live with what you get, but if you want the best results you will need to process the RAWs - you can of course shoot RAW+ JPG and if you don’t like the JPG just process the RAW
 
Mr Perceptive said:
The problem in adjusting the film simulation values (ie shadows, etc) is that while they may work for the shot you’ve set up, swing round 180 degrees and take another shot and they all can be wrong

There probably is a solution in there but I would suggest only baking in very small adjustments and then treating it like a selected film, just live with what you get, but if you want the best results you will need to process the RAWs - you can of course shoot RAW+ JPG and if you don’t like the JPG just process the RAW
Click to expand...

True, I have noticed this, however, I created my own specifically for mono and I have been tweaking it here and there to get it to my preference. I have also been shooting RAW+JPEG whilst I try to lure myself into shooting jpeg only..... could be a while yet. Having said that, aside from a handful of images, I haven't spent much time editing the raw files, I've been happy with the jpegs :) .
 
bdslr said:
Yup. Long term Nikon user who traded in all his Nikon stuff at the weekend. Got a nice 35mm f1.4 for my X-t2 and love the short amount of time we've had...

Took me a while to make the jump but when I realised I was not using the Nikon much, always reached for the Fuji when I went out, and that second hand prices are dropping on DSLR gear I jumped.

Don't wait the year I did, I reckon I lost a couple of hundred pounds (non scientific estimate)
Click to expand...

I have a few lenses and a couple of bodies, so I will start narrowing them down sooner rather than later. :)
 
I shoot in raw, but like "Classic Neg" simulation, but I apply that in Lightroom.
 
I find I almost exclusively shoot in Classic Chrome for colour, with plain Monochrome for black and white.
 
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