The Fabulous Fuji X owners thread

Craikeybaby said:
I have got some macro extension tubes, 11mm and 16mm, but which of my lenses would be best to try with them? I have the kit lens, the 35f1.14 and the 55-200. I will likely just be shooting whatever I can find around the garden.
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I tried my 11 and 16mm ones doing this, it is an old 1960s slide that I wanted to take a photo of , I'm the baby and then it's my father mother and brother.

Family by Rohan, on Flickr
 
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Craikeybaby said:
I have got some macro extension tubes, 11mm and 16mm, but which of my lenses would be best to try with them? I have the kit lens, the 35f1.14 and the 55-200. I will likely just be shooting whatever I can find around the garden.
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Try with the 55-200 first, with shorter focal lengths you end up with very short working distances (end of lens to target object),
 
Craikeybaby said:
I have got some macro extension tubes, 11mm and 16mm, but which of my lenses would be best to try with them? I have the kit lens, the 35f1.14 and the 55-200. I will likely just be shooting whatever I can find around the garden.
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Either will work. Depends on what you want to shoot. Things work in reverse with tubes so shorter focal lengths will get you closer - both physically and image-wise.

For example, on my 18-55mm, at 18mm i can pretty much touch the subject with the lens, and it's huge in the image, at 55mm the minimum distance is further away, and the subject fills less of the frame. It's a compromise, and using that lens I often end up somewhere in the middle.

So, while the 35mm will probably do well, you also need to factor in OIS, since you'll probably want to be shooting at f8 for any kind of DOF.
 
jimmyjamjojo said:
Haha love these little guys. Especially in the movie where they're running with their little bums lol
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They are super cute. Only about an inch and a half high. So I can imagine a few more pix to be taken ;)
 
I am in need of a flash for my XH1, it will need it to illuminate a kneeling person at a range of upto 2m, at any time of night, in the countryside, with no other lighting! A unit that is as compact as possible, and not costing fortunes, as its only for occasional use would be ideal! What are my options?
 
popcorn said:
I am in need of a flash for my XH1, it will need it to illuminate a kneeling person at a range of upto 2m, at any time of night, in the countryside, with no other lighting! A unit that is as compact as possible, and not costing fortunes, as its only for occasional use would be ideal! What are my options?
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Have a look at the Godox F flash.
 
popcorn said:
I am in need of a flash for my XH1, it will need it to illuminate a kneeling person at a range of upto 2m, at any time of night, in the countryside, with no other lighting! A unit that is as compact as possible, and not costing fortunes, as its only for occasional use would be ideal! What are my options?
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The EF-X8 flash works on the X-H1 I believe. It's not all that powerful, but should be more than enough for what you want. It's tiny, and needs no batteries!
 
Italian bikes just have something special (with my Aprillia it was the electrics!!)
 
Jelster said:
Italian bikes just have something special (with my Aprillia it was the electrics!!)
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That’s right mate. All had their nuances.
 
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www.fujirumors.com

Live Blog: Fujifilm X-S20, Fujinon XF 8mmF3.5, New X-App, New Firmware Officially Announced - Fuji Rumors

Fujifilm Launch Blog (refresh for latest updates) Fujifilm X-S20: → USA: BHphoto / AmazonUS / Adorama / Moment → Worldwide: AmazonCA / Amazon of Your Country → UK: AmazonUK / WexUK / ParkCameraUK → EU: AmazonDE / AmazonIT / AmazonFR / AmazonES / CalumetDE / FotoErhardt / Fotokoch / PCHstore...
www.fujirumors.com www.fujirumors.com

Lots of new Fuji stuff announced today - X-S20, XF 8mm f/3.5 lens, finally a new app and lots of new firmware for X and GFX cameras.
 
RichardC27 said:
www.fujirumors.com

Live Blog: Fujifilm X-S20, Fujinon XF 8mmF3.5, New X-App, New Firmware Officially Announced - Fuji Rumors

Fujifilm Launch Blog (refresh for latest updates) Fujifilm X-S20: → USA: BHphoto / AmazonUS / Adorama / Moment → Worldwide: AmazonCA / Amazon of Your Country → UK: AmazonUK / WexUK / ParkCameraUK → EU: AmazonDE / AmazonIT / AmazonFR / AmazonES / CalumetDE / FotoErhardt / Fotokoch / PCHstore...
www.fujirumors.com www.fujirumors.com

Lots of new Fuji stuff announced today - X-S20, XF 8mm f/3.5 lens, finally a new app and lots of new firmware for X and GFX cameras.
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I see the new app will allow you to transfer images even if the camera is turned off... I hope for my battery's sake you can turn that off!
 
jimmyjamjojo said:
I see the new app will allow you to transfer images even if the camera is turned off... I hope for my battery's sake you can turn that off!I
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I can't see anywhere if you're finally able to transfer Raw images via the app or not. I hope so, if not I still won't be using it much
 
I've just read that you still can't transfer Raw files via the app
 
Paulie-W said:
Messing around with little Kodama (Japanese Tree Spirits) dudes, on my Bonsai.

T5 35mm (plus a bit of PS) ;)

Kodama by Paulie-W, on Flickr
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All your macro shots look great. I love the Star Wars ones, they're almost like comic panels! I'd love to know your process and see where you actually take the shots.
 
colourofsound said:
All your macro shots look great. I love the Star Wars ones, they're almost like comic panels! I'd love to know your process and see where you actually take the shots.
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Thank you, Chris. Much appreciated (y)

Most of the toy shots, are done in my little cave, apart from the obvious PS ones. Some in the garden. Quite a bit of PS involved anyway (but for me, that`s part of the fun).
All I have mainly for the darker shots, is a couple of sturdy bits of dark grey board, and of any mount board that I can find. Sometimes use a Rotolight Neo, and sometimes 2x Godox 685`s. Also have a light whip, and some modification parts for the light painting, but need to really be in the mood for that ;)

Never be afraid to ask how, and I`ll try to describe as well as I can :)
 
Looks like Tamron have dropped an 11-20mm f2.8 for Sony and Fuji. Priced at ~£800. Initial reviews look good!
 
A question for @Topsy - just wondering why the 16-55 rather than the 18-55. Is it just the extra stop at the long end or is it hugely better in other ways?
 
Nod said:
A question for @Topsy - just wondering why the 16-55 rather than the 18-55. Is it just the extra stop at the long end or is it hugely better in other ways?
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@Topsy may have his own reasons but when I had it the weather sealing (for what it may actually be worth) was more important than the fixed 2.8 although that was nice too.
To my eyes the 16-55 was sharper throughout (pixel peeping though).

I would say having had both and with the benefit of hindsight if I wasn’t bothered about the weather sealing or the constant f2.8 I’d not even bother with the 16-55 as beyond those two points the cost I don’t think justify’s it.

Unless you want a red badge. It that case definitely worth every penny!
 
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Thanks for your reply, Rob.

FWIW, although I have an 18-55, it sits on the shelf because I also have an 18-135 which is a WR lens and also far better than the 18-55 at 56mm and longer!!! FOR ME, the extra stops of light gathering (or shallower DoF) aren't enough of a draw and the extra length makes the 18-135 a great walkabout option.
 
Nod said:
A question for @Topsy - just wondering why the 16-55 rather than the 18-55. Is it just the extra stop at the long end or is it hugely better in other ways?
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A couple of reasons really Nod, the weather sealing is a big thing for me since I go out in almost any weather and the 16mm at the wide end because I prefer that FOV to the 18mm FOV. TBH the f2.8 constant is far less relevant since I am mostly at f8 to f16 but the hard stops and marked apertures are a definite plus for me. I do have the 18-55 and I keep it on my old beater X-Pro1 just for those days when I want to have something that I can put in the car as a grab and go.

@Lost_Manc see above, I agree the f2.8 isn't the big deal but the marked apertures are, if you look at my blog you'll see the types of weather I put them through and the WR is a great comfort and it (so far) has worked in some pretty awful conditions. One of the reasons I use 3 bodies is so I don't have to change lenses in the field which definitely helps.

Lost_Manc said:
@Topsy may have his own reasons but when I had it the weather sealing (for what it may actually be worth) was more important than the fixed 2.8 although that was nice too.
To my eyes the 16-55 was sharper throughout (pixel peeping though).

I would say having had both and with the benefit of hindsight if I wasn’t bothered about the weather sealing or the constant f2.8 I’d not even bother with the 16-55 as beyond those two points the cost I don’t think justify’s it.

Unless you want a red badge. It that case definitely worth every penny!
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Three X-T2s.JPG

L1010788a.JPG
 
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Thanks for the answer, Paul. Again, FOR ME, the extra (well, fewer!!!) 2mm at the short end wouldn't be enough to sway me from the 18-135 - I have the 10-24 on my old X-Pro1 for the UWA side of things!

Taking a gamble next week - leaving all the Fuji kit behind and just taking the Sony RX-100vi on holiday. Not a huge gamble TBH - it's a place we go every year so I have "proper" shots (several times over in most instances!) of all the places we tend to go so the (very competent) Sony should do the job I want/need it to do. The only 2 reasons I'm taking the Sony rather than the Fuji X-30 compact are a) the Sony slips into a shirt pocket and b) it racks out to 200mm (35mm equivalent) so gives me the extra reach over the RX-100ii I upgraded from.
 
Nod said:
Thanks for the answer, Paul. Again, FOR ME, the extra (well, fewer!!!) 2mm at the short end wouldn't be enough to sway me from the 18-135 - I have the 10-24 on my old X-Pro1 for the UWA side of things!

Taking a gamble next week - leaving all the Fuji kit behind and just taking the Sony RX-100vi on holiday. Not a huge gamble TBH - it's a place we go every year so I have "proper" shots (several times over in most instances!) of all the places we tend to go so the (very competent) Sony should do the job I want/need it to do. The only 2 reasons I'm taking the Sony rather than the Fuji X-30 compact are a) the Sony slips into a shirt pocket and b) it racks out to 200mm (35mm equivalent) so gives me the extra reach over the RX-100ii I upgraded from.
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Mrs T has a Sony RX-100Mk3 it is a very capable camera. TBH she inherited it from me to replace her Mk2, I couln't personally get on with it but she loves it. I replaced it with a Leica D-Lux Typ109 (sister to the Lumix 100) as it is a bit motre tactile for my liking but gives the same zoom range (almost).
 
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Topsy said:
A couple of reasons really Nod, the weather sealing is a big thing for me since I go out in almost any weather and the 16mm at the wide end because I prefer that FOV to the 18mm FOV. TBH the f2.8 constant is far less relevant since I am mostly at f8 to f16 but the hard stops and marked apertures are a definite plus for me. I do have the 18-55 and I keep it on my old beater X-Pro1 just for those days when I want to have something that I can put in the car as a grab and go.

@Lost_Manc see above, I agree the f2.8 isn't the big deal but the marked apertures are, if you look at my blog you'll see the types of weather I put them through and the WR is a great comfort and it (so far) has worked in some pretty awful conditions. One of the reasons I use 3 bodies is so I don't have to change lenses in the field which definitely helps.



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Yeah. Forgot about the marked aperture aspect of the constant 2.8.
I never really thought about it as I was always looking through EVF or at the screen so seeing what my ‘f’ was there.

My point regarding the reliability of the WR was not a slight or criticism. I used it in some very wet situations.
More, Fuji (and many others) don’t IP rate so beyond saying it offers resistance should it get damaged I imagine things could get interesting trying to get it repaired/claim on warranty.
I have no actual experience of that however as like I say, my kit and likewise it seems yours held/holds up just fine.
 
Another one to factor in the 18-55 vs 16-55 vs 18-135 d3bate is the Tamron 17-70. I've just picked one up to replace my 18-55 and so far it seems like a great option. It is a constant 2.8, weater sealed, and still has OIS.

Suits me, as I plan to use it on rainy nights in the city, which my 18-55 probably wouldn't handle to well, and the OIS was a necessity since I don't have IBIS.
 
Like that, do I.
 
jimmyjamjojo said:
Another one to factor in the 18-55 vs 16-55 vs 18-135 d3bate is the Tamron 17-70. I've just picked one up to replace my 18-55 and so far it seems like a great option. It is a constant 2.8, weater sealed, and still has OIS.

Suits me, as I plan to use it on rainy nights in the city, which my 18-55 probably wouldn't handle to well, and the OIS was a necessity since I don't have IBIS.
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How about the Fuji 16-80? It has the marked aperture, WR and goes down to 16mm at the wide end, but rarely gets mentioned on here. I am tempted to "upgrade" my kit lens to one, for the aforementioned reasons.
 
Craikeybaby said:
How about the Fuji 16-80? It has the marked aperture, WR and goes down to 16mm at the wide end, but rarely gets mentioned on here. I am tempted to "upgrade" my kit lens to one, for the aforementioned reasons.
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Yep, good shout. I think I personally have always discounted it due to the aperture. For daytime use, and even early evening I guess, it shouldn't be an issue though.
 
trevorbray said:
High ISO noise reduction sample
Shot at 12800

1st using PureRaw and Deep Prime
Willow by Trevor, on Flickr

2nd Using Lightroom Denoise
WillowLRDN by Trevor, on Flickr

I'll let you draw your own conclusions.
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Well I’m on phone at the minute but even going on Flickr to me they are indistinguishable.

I did a lot of testing on my images both from the XT-4 and the GX9.

My end conclusion was that LR was as good if not better in some situations (eyebrows/lashes/hair looks better to my eyes in LR) to the point where the extra ‘effort’ of using DXO wasn’t worth it.

I will add however I use(d) Photolab rather than PureRaw and version 5 with only the original DeepPrime not the newer version in PL6 and PR3.

For me I won’t be upgrading my DXO software now unless something amazing happens as doing everything inside LR is now giving me as good or better results.

My thoughts anyway. You may of course disagree!
 
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