The Fabulous Fuji X owners thread

chrism_scotland said:
Managed to grab a few shots between rain clouds yesterday, nothing notable but nice to get the camera in hand.
I have to admit though I am struggling getting used to the handling v the XH1 - I know a lot of the reviews mentioned the dial changes, etc but it just feels like a lot of things are in the wrong place!
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You’ll soon get used to it. It’s just another camera.
 
bl0at3r said:
UK - black X100V - at time of posting this there are 6 currently in stock at John Lewis

Fujifilm X100V Digital Compact Camera with 23mm Lens, 4K Ultra HD, 26.1MP, Wi-Fi, Bluetooth, Hybrid EVF/OVF, 3" Tiltable Touch Screen

Buy Fujifilm X100V Digital Compact Camera with 23mm Lens, 4K Ultra HD, 26.1MP, Wi-Fi, Bluetooth, Hybrid EVF/OVF, 3" Tiltable Touch Screen from our Cameras range at John Lewis & Partners. Free Delivery on orders over £70.
www.johnlewis.com www.johnlewis.com
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Now only 4 left…
 
chrism_scotland said:
Managed to grab a few shots between rain clouds yesterday, nothing notable but nice to get the camera in hand.
I have to admit though I am struggling getting used to the handling v the XH1 - I know a lot of the reviews mentioned the dial changes, etc but it just feels like a lot of things are in the wrong place!
Click to expand...
I agree with @trevorbray you will soon get used to it.
I like my XT3 best and XH1 but with the XH2S and XH2 I am sure I will soon think that the newer cameras are more understandable once I have used them for a few months.
 
patr said:
View attachment 368078View attachment 368079

Sorry Nick, @Speedy136, hopefully these will show the UK adapter a bit better. Off my X-T4 charger, same as the X-H2S
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Because of the angles of the two images I'm not sure about this, but it looks as if that adaptor is not fused. If that's the case it is illegal to use it and potentially very dangerous. The purpose of the fuse in UK plugs is to limit the fault current in the event of a short circuit or earth fault, which is why there are various plug fuse ratings.

If a fuse is not present then the fault current will only be limited by the circuit breaker in the distribution board, the most common rating for this is 32 amp which would most probably destroy that adaptor, damage the socket outlet and cause a severe burn to your hand if you were inserting or removing the adaptor at the time.
 
Paulie-W said:
Well, for all you H2 variants;
I`m still more than happy with my H1. Even bought a cheap "L" bracket for it the other day ;)

But, keeping an eye on the T5 rumours just in case.
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I'm so happy with my X-H1 that I recently bought another one as a spare in case the one I already have failed and was beyond repair. :-)
 
Earley Man said:
Because of the angles of the two images I'm not sure about this, but it looks as if that adaptor is not fused. If that's the case it is illegal to use it and potentially very dangerous. The purpose of the fuse in UK plugs is to limit the fault current in the event of a short circuit or earth fault, which is why there are various plug fuse ratings.

If a fuse is not present then the fault current will only be limited by the circuit breaker in the distribution board, the most common rating for this is 32 amp which would most probably destroy that adaptor, damage the socket outlet and cause a severe burn to your hand if you were inserting or removing the adaptor at the time.
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The images show the UK 3 pin slide-in adapter which is not fused. It is just the interchangeable male pins with a L and N pin and a plastic, non-earthed pin to release the safety covers in the wall socket. It is not a 240v plug for a figure of 8 mains cable but an adapter for a universal USB charging unit.

FujiFilm (and millions of others) provide a universal USB adapter block to transform mains voltage from 240v to 5v and provide a set of male pins dependant upon the country of purchase. My X-T4 and X-H2S came with a UK 3 pin adapter, a continental round pin adapter for a Schuko type socket, and an Australian/NZ two pin adapter as well as a 100-240v, 50/60 Hz, .5A input / 5V, 3.0A, 15W output transformer.

I suspect that the USB transformer itself has internal over-current protection (likely to be fusible resistor but I haven't opened the case).

You raise a very valid point regarding fuses but a quick scoot around my house to check all of my USB adapters did not find one with a replaceable fuse and this includes my M1 MacBook Pro. So unless the adapter is a 'market special' or supplied off the back of a lorry then I suspect that reputable manufacturers such as Apple, FujiFilm, Canon and Olympus et al would not provide a universal USB transformer and a set of interchangeable pin interfaces without ensuring they meet all of the statutory electrical safety regulations. But I could be wrong!
 
kanebaguley said:
Hi, looking to upgrade from Canon to Fuji XH2 this month. Quick question though, I see a lot of editing software struggles to get the best from Fuji RAW files. Is this still the case? If so, what is recommended?
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Capture one seems to be the best.

To be honest though, there isn't much in it at all. Plenty of professionals use adobe and are able to print huge, or print fine art etc.

I personally switched to capture one to see what all the fuss was about. I stayed because I prefer the way it works rather than any percieved improvement in image quality.
 
So a sunny day and a bit of time to test with the XH2.
Initial thoughts that the image in the EVF was too bright so I started to use -3EV.
Also tested on Spot metering which gave a better exposure, in my eyes than MultiArea metering.
I need to examine this further.

I tested with 56mm f1.2, the 16-55 f2.8 and 80mm f2.8 macro.

All shot in bright sunlight at ISO200 and testing the lenses at f2.8 aperture

56mm f1.2 at f2.8
1664726409999.jpeg


16-55mm f2.8 at f2.8
1664726484047.jpeg

Sorry Fuji but the 56mm f1.2 seems to work very well for me so I wont be changing any time soon.

Did some tests with the 80mm f2.8 macro.
1664726560638.jpeg

1664726587107.jpeg

Liking these as the rendering is similar to my XF60mm f2.5
I think I might test this lens as well but it is a slow focusing lens. But who knows.


A very helpful fly who landed on the window.
Notice this is a 100% crop from the 16-55 image.
1664726672934.jpeg

Didnt have time to put the 80mm on before he flew off.


My preferred rendering using -3EV.
This gives a truer colour to the rose hips but notice the histogram compared to the earlier images.

1664726753139.jpeg
 
patr said:
The images show the UK 3 pin slide-in adapter which is not fused. It is just the interchangeable male pins with a L and N pin and a plastic, non-earthed pin to release the safety covers in the wall socket. It is not a 240v plug for a figure of 8 mains cable but an adapter for a universal USB charging unit.

FujiFilm (and millions of others) provide a universal USB adapter block to transform mains voltage from 240v to 5v and provide a set of male pins dependant upon the country of purchase. My X-T4 and X-H2S came with a UK 3 pin adapter, a continental round pin adapter for a Schuko type socket, and an Australian/NZ two pin adapter as well as a 100-240v, 50/60 Hz, .5A input / 5V, 3.0A, 15W output transformer.

I suspect that the USB transformer itself has internal over-current protection (likely to be fusible resistor but I haven't opened the case).

You raise a very valid point regarding fuses but a quick scoot around my house to check all of my USB adapters did not find one with a replaceable fuse and this includes my M1 MacBook Pro. So unless the adapter is a 'market special' or supplied off the back of a lorry then I suspect that reputable manufacturers such as Apple, FujiFilm, Canon and Olympus et al would not provide a universal USB transformer and a set of interchangeable pin interfaces without ensuring they meet all of the statutory electrical safety regulations. But I could be wrong!
Click to expand...

Hi patr,

Thanks for the helpful reply, because of the angle of the photo I thought it was a simple step-down transformer unit. You are correct about all the reputable manufacturers supplying USB transformer units that have an internal fusible link. Being a bit of a skeptic that's probably because it's a lot cheaper and they get to sell another PSU if the fusible link operates.:)
 
kanebaguley said:
Hi, looking to upgrade from Canon to Fuji XH2 this month. Quick question though, I see a lot of editing software struggles to get the best from Fuji RAW files. Is this still the case? If so, what is recommended?
Click to expand...

I have been using Capture 1 for a while now and find it to be excellent. The latest version works perfectly with my X-H2S and I will try it out next week when the X-H2 arrives.

If you do go for the X-H2, Capture 1 Express for FujiFilm is a free download and whilst missing many of the features of the full-blown product, is very good and will give you a feel for the programme.

I recently did a free trial with ON1 Photo RAW and was impressed enough to buy it, especially as they offer a 50% discount to military veterans (I am in the UK and received the discount immediately).
 
kanebaguley said:
Hi, looking to upgrade from Canon to Fuji XH2 this month. Quick question though, I see a lot of editing software struggles to get the best from Fuji RAW files. Is this still the case? If so, what is recommended?
Click to expand...

There are lots of ‘solutions’ for Fuji processing. Older Lightroom and earlier X-Trans cameras did have some issues, Lightroom has improved over time but it still can have issues and certainly isn’t the best for higher ISO files. If you do want to use Lightroom only, then I suggest creating a camera preset which significantly reduces default sharpening and apply this to all Fuji files on import - you can automatically apply a preset based on Camera type in LR

Recently I’ve been using DXO PureRAW2 for the RAW conversion and then processing in Lightroom - this IMO works well and the noise reduction stuff in PureRAW is definitely witchcraft level!! That said it can oversharpen at times, so very occasionally I’ll use the imported RAW from Lightroom.

It’s really down to what you prefer as your main editing tool - 12 years of working with Lightroom means it’s difficult for me to move away, some people though found the transition to CaptureOne easy - I tried it and didn’t like it.
 
kanebaguley said:
Hi, looking to upgrade from Canon to Fuji XH2 this month. Quick question though, I see a lot of editing software struggles to get the best from Fuji RAW files. Is this still the case? If so, what is recommended?
Click to expand...

Lightroom is fine, just set up an import preset and set the sharpening at 0 and you'll be fine.
 
First time I'm hearing about setting sharpening to 0.

I've always heard to set detail to 100, radius to 0.7, then hold alt while using the masking slider to selectively sharpen.
 
Cheers all, glad to hear its not really an issue anymore. I saw a Tom Heaton video about it years ago and upon some Googling saw a few people still complaining. I currently use Affinity but I've been eyeing up Capture One and DXO PureRAW2 so I'll see how I get on with them. Thanks for the ON1 Photo RAW recommend to, will check it out.
 
:plus1: for C1, although I still finish in PS (too used to it now since CS3 ;)) But C1 is a great bit of software inho. I`ve never got on with LR, so cannot compare.
 
C1/COP is a different product to LR. The way you edit is important. I use C1 as I like the output and the control it provides me. I use it in parallel with LR Classic but I dont pay the subscription to Adobe so my LR Classic is timed out so no Develop, Map modules. I use it for the catalogs which are better than C1.

I use C1 or DXO Photo Lab 5.4 for my RAW conversion and then output to TIFF or JPG for editing in Photoshop CS6 or Serif Affinity Photo.
I use Photoshop for all my IR images as I can find an alternative.

BTW: All my XH2 images (above in post 68415) are screenshots from LR so the output from the RAW is totally unprocessed, unsharpened, without any edits.
They would be sharper yet if I exported them from C1.
 
Earley Man said:
Because of the angles of the two images I'm not sure about this, but it looks as if that adaptor is not fused. If that's the case it is illegal to use it and potentially very dangerous. The purpose of the fuse in UK plugs is to limit the fault current in the event of a short circuit or earth fault, which is why there are various plug fuse ratings.

If a fuse is not present then the fault current will only be limited by the circuit breaker in the distribution board, the most common rating for this is 32 amp which would most probably destroy that adaptor, damage the socket outlet and cause a severe burn to your hand if you were inserting or removing the adaptor at the time.
Click to expand...
Interesting point Christopher that I never really thought about. The unit is quite small and gives 15w of power which is enough to power the Fuji double charger where as a single usb lead directly from a PC or low power phone charger can only power enough for one battery at a time instead of the two on the charger.
 
jknights said:
Steve is that a focus stacked image?
It is mighty sharp.
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Don't think it was, that would have been difficult with a ladybird moving around (and my skills ain't that good!!!). I have focus stacked flowers before but normally roses, those unopened Poppies aren't really that big. But using the 100-400 with a close focus tube is great for this sort of thing, if not a little heavy!
 
chrism_scotland said:
Nothing incredible just a couple from Friday but there is a lot of detail in that XH2 sensor!

The Shore, Leith, Edinburgh (XH2 & 23mmm f1.4) by Chris Mitchell, on Flickr

The Shore, Leith, Edinburgh (XH2 &16-55 f2.8) by Chris Mitchell, on Flickr
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Are these fairly edited? I only ask as there seems to be some dark 'blooming' artefacts in places around the roof tops, mainly around the round building at the left? Also look like you need to clean the sensor :)

I've decided to get hold of a loan X-H2S to try out as there aren't any loan X-H2's right now with Fuji, will try that out against my Z9 and see how it compares in a few different ways :) Main thing I'm concerned about is noise being both the fujis are crop sensors, the X-H2 especially
 
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PeteStewardson said:
Are these fairly edited? I only ask as there seems to be some dark 'blooming' artefacts in places around the roof tops, mainly around the round building at the left? Also look like you need to clean the sensor :)

I've decided to get hold of a loan X-H2S to try out as there aren't any loan X-H2's right now with Fuji, will try that out against my Z9 and see how it compares in a few different ways :) Main thing I'm concerned about is noise being both the fujis are crop sensors, the X-H2 especially
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Yeah they are fairly edited, the light wasn't ideal (that and its been almost a year since I've used Lightroom!) - it was actually dirt on the 23mm, the 16-55 didn't show any dust spots!
 
Anyone got a 7artisans 25mm they want to sell? I've got an ad in the wanted section but doubt many look in there, and being such a cheap lens I doubt many people bother to sell them on...

But, if anyone has one that isn't seeing much use....
 
chrism_scotland said:
Yeah they are fairly edited, the light wasn't ideal (that and its been almost a year since I've used Lightroom!) - it was actually dirt on the 23mm, the 16-55 didn't show any dust spots!
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My editing is terrible so I don't think I'd have done as good a job as you did but wanted to check :D
 
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