The Fabulous Fuji X owners thread

Fuji Dave said:
As I always say just a few from today, X-T3 + XF33mm f1.8 so will get my street shots done first as I know it's ok in here.

1

Watching by Rohan, on Flickr

2

Strike a Pose by Rohan, on Flickr

3

Happy Busker by Rohan, on Flickr
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Fuji Dave said:
X-T3 + XF33mm again

1

W. R. IIII by Rohan, on Flickr

2

To Let by Rohan, on Flickr

3

The Main Man by Rohan, on Flickr

4

The Boss by Rohan, on Flickr

5

Birdy by Rohan, on Flickr
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Two very nice sets of street style captures Dave, your new lens seems to be very nice.
 
Just looking back on a review from a few years ago and this sticks to my mind lol


Image Quality​

Alright. I’ve been avoiding the emotional outbreaks so far. Been trying to keep things sober and objective, but I can not hold it in any longer.

OH MY DEAR LORD! THE IMAGE QUALITY OF THIS LENS!
 
Fuji Dave said:
Agree on the rain mate, the lot we have had was just drizzle.
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Tell me about it. The last time we were supposed to have a storm, and heavy rain (i got all set up to get some splash macros). We had about 3 minutes of drizzle ffs :rolleyes:
 
Has anyone compared the X-H2S with a Canon R7 for wildlife/BIF etc? I'm "renting" and X-H2S from Fuji over the long weekend to try it out for bird tracking etc, so hoping it's going to be good for that. Not seen an R7 yet though and it's quite a bit less expensive...
 
Fuji Dave said:
Just looking back on a review from a few years ago and this sticks to my mind lol


Image Quality​

Alright. I’ve been avoiding the emotional outbreaks so far. Been trying to keep things sober and objective, but I can not hold it in any longer.

OH MY DEAR LORD! THE IMAGE QUALITY OF THIS LENS!
Click to expand...

Must stop reading this review by Jonas, I don't want it.
 
Fuji Dave said:
Must stop reading this review by Jonas, I don't want it.
Click to expand...
Oh yes you do!

But the only thing I would add is (that for me) I needed a body with IBIS to get the exquisite sharpness every one raved about. It was in my 'get rid' box until the X-H1 arrived and at a stroke it transformed the 90mm.

It is a stunning piece of glass and Jonas is spot on.

Great shots with your 33mm by the way. Its on the radar but I bought the 35mm 1.4 way back in my X-Pro1 days and though AF is a bit slow and noisy it is a lovely lens. I will try and borrow/hire one to compare with the 35mm but you have captured some crackers there.
 
patr said:
Oh yes you do!

But the only thing I would add is (that for me) I needed a body with IBIS to get the exquisite sharpness every one raved about. It was in my 'get rid' box until the X-H1 arrived and at a stroke it transformed the 90mm.

It is a stunning piece of glass and Jonas is spot on.

Great shots with your 33mm by the way. Its on the radar but I bought the 35mm 1.4 way back in my X-Pro1 days and though AF is a bit slow and noisy it is a lovely lens. I will try and borrow/hire one to compare with the 35mm but you have captured some crackers there.
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Thank you patr, it is a hell of a lens so will have to have a good think on it.
 
Fuji Dave said:
As I have never taken out a X camera when it rains, what is the WR like on the X-T3 if I get caught in a down pour ?
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I only know with the XT-4 and the XH2S but the WR is really solid, I don't know how much water resistance was added between the Xt-3 and XT-4 though. I've taken both out on fishing boats in the Scottish weather (so saltwater and rainwater) and had no issues at all. Definitely only use the WR lenses though. Added some videos because I never trusted people saying "it can be wet" without seeing it myself.
https://vimeo.com/743016723/bd9f8be115
 
After some advice. I had a sabbatical from photography after selling all my fuji kit. Doing weddings killed the joy for a while but I'm looking to return. Trying to work out what to go for. Either an XT2/20 Xh1 or XT30. I've had an XT20 so I'm not concerned with the handling. I see lots of comments about improved AF with the newer sensors but most of it seems to revolve around face detection or tracking, neither of which I would use that much. Is single shot and the normal Continuous AF much different in the newer models? The IBIS of the XH1 interests me too.....
TIA
 
amtaylor said:
After some advice. I had a sabbatical from photography after selling all my fuji kit. Doing weddings killed the joy for a while but I'm looking to return. Trying to work out what to go for. Either an XT2/20 Xh1 or XT30. I've had an XT20 so I'm not concerned with the handling. I see lots of comments about improved AF with the newer sensors but most of it seems to revolve around face detection or tracking, neither of which I would use that much. Is single shot and the normal Continuous AF much different in the newer models? The IBIS of the XH1 interests me too.....
TIA
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I had the 3 you mention, T2 is a nice camera to use but in the end the H1 won as it really was a joy to use plus the IBIS came in very handy.
 
amtaylor said:
After some advice. I had a sabbatical from photography after selling all my fuji kit. Doing weddings killed the joy for a while but I'm looking to return. Trying to work out what to go for. Either an XT2/20 Xh1 or XT30. I've had an XT20 so I'm not concerned with the handling. I see lots of comments about improved AF with the newer sensors but most of it seems to revolve around face detection or tracking, neither of which I would use that much. Is single shot and the normal Continuous AF much different in the newer models? The IBIS of the XH1 interests me too.....
TIA
Click to expand...

I moved from an X-T1 to an X-T3, and like you I don't really use tracking or face detect, but the difference felt massive. Everything just felt snappier, from general operation to autofocus, everything was improved.
 
Anyone else find it weird that the X-S10 is the only camera compatible with the Instax link wide printer?

All the other printers are compatible with most/all x-series cameras, yet the newest and arguably best printer is only compatible with the X-S10? Crazy. I've got an old Instax wide camera and a bunch of film, it's great fun but with a fixed aperture and no flexibility in shutter speed its only really able to shoot on bright days. Also, it has a plastic lens and has only two focus options - near, and far.

I also own an X-T3 and would love to print straight from that - it gives me access to low light shooting, shallow depth of field, sharper lenses etc. It has the option built in to print straight to an Instax printer, but for some reason Fuji have decided that only one camera can use that printer...

Sure, I could send to my phone, and then print from there but that would mean connecting the camera to my phone, using the flaky remote app to transfer, disconnecting from the camera and then connecting to the printer, and using the separate Instax app to send to the printer. That's a lot of faff for an "instant".

Sorry for the rant, but thought I'd found something really great there until I saw the compatibility. I mean, regardless of what I want, surely Fuji must see that this would pair amazingly with the X100v?

While I don't agree with the practice, I understand when companies limit certain products in order to push their new range or their flagship, but this just makes no sense. :mad:
 
Fuji Dave said:
I had the 3 you mention, T2 is a nice camera to use but in the end the H1 won as it really was a joy to use plus the IBIS came in very handy.
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So you didn't find the AF lacking compared to the XT30?
 
Hello everyone. I did ask this a while ago when I first got my X-T4 but thought I'd try again as I still can't find a way to stop this happening. Basically, for slow shutter work in bright light I actually shoot at f/22 a reasonable amount of time. For panning shots I'm obviously in AF-C mode to track the subject, but as it says below, the aperture is always at f/22, even when I'm trying to focus. Obviously AF performance at f/22 is not the best, so I want the aperture to stay wide open until I take the shot, as it does on a DSLR.

I get that mirrorless cameras want to show you a 'live' exposure, but I'd rather have the AF performance of having the aperture wide open. How do I get this to happen? I know on Sony cameras there is a setting to make them behave like this but I cannot work it out on my X-T4, if it's even possible.

"After my first weekend out using my X-T4, I have one burning question. Now this may just be something I have to get used to coming from a DSLR, or a unique quirk of Fuji cameras I'm not sure.
Is there a way to prevent the aperture stopping down until the shutter button is pressed? On a DSLR, the aperture is always wide open until you press the shutter button, but on my Fuji the aperture seems "live", for want of a better term, I.e if I set it to f/22, then it's at f/22 all the time. The reason I ask is that AF is obviously rather slow and inaccurate at such small apertures, but I do need to use them quite frequently for slow shutter panning shots, where I need the AF to track a car as I pan."
 
jimmyjamjojo said:
Anyone else find it weird that the X-S10 is the only camera compatible with the Instax link wide printer?

All the other printers are compatible with most/all x-series cameras, yet the newest and arguably best printer is only compatible with the X-S10? Crazy. I've got an old Instax wide camera and a bunch of film, it's great fun but with a fixed aperture and no flexibility in shutter speed its only really able to shoot on bright days. Also, it has a plastic lens and has only two focus options - near, and far.

I also own an X-T3 and would love to print straight from that - it gives me access to low light shooting, shallow depth of field, sharper lenses etc. It has the option built in to print straight to an Instax printer, but for some reason Fuji have decided that only one camera can use that printer...

Sure, I could send to my phone, and then print from there but that would mean connecting the camera to my phone, using the flaky remote app to transfer, disconnecting from the camera and then connecting to the printer, and using the separate Instax app to send to the printer. That's a lot of faff for an "instant".

Sorry for the rant, but thought I'd found something really great there until I saw the compatibility. I mean, regardless of what I want, surely Fuji must see that this would pair amazingly with the X100v?

While I don't agree with the practice, I understand when companies limit certain products in order to push their new range or their flagship, but this just makes no sense. :mad:
Click to expand...
Not just me then. ?
Yep. It’s so infuriating that only the X-S10 can do it. Even the flagship X-H2S or GFX models can’t.
Come on Fuji. Surely a firmware fix is needed.
 
RichardC27 said:
Hello everyone. I did ask this a while ago when I first got my X-T4 but thought I'd try again as I still can't find a way to stop this happening. Basically, for slow shutter work in bright light I actually shoot at f/22 a reasonable amount of time. For panning shots I'm obviously in AF-C mode to track the subject, but as it says below, the aperture is always at f/22, even when I'm trying to focus. Obviously AF performance at f/22 is not the best, so I want the aperture to stay wide open until I take the shot, as it does on a DSLR.

I get that mirrorless cameras want to show you a 'live' exposure, but I'd rather have the AF performance of having the aperture wide open. How do I get this to happen? I know on Sony cameras there is a setting to make them behave like this but I cannot work it out on my X-T4, if it's even possible.

"After my first weekend out using my X-T4, I have one burning question. Now this may just be something I have to get used to coming from a DSLR, or a unique quirk of Fuji cameras I'm not sure.
Is there a way to prevent the aperture stopping down until the shutter button is pressed? On a DSLR, the aperture is always wide open until you press the shutter button, but on my Fuji the aperture seems "live", for want of a better term, I.e if I set it to f/22, then it's at f/22 all the time. The reason I ask is that AF is obviously rather slow and inaccurate at such small apertures, but I do need to use them quite frequently for slow shutter panning shots, where I need the AF to track a car as I pan."
Click to expand...

I think for the most part they will stay wide open until you shoot (Or rather, until you half-press the shutter button. At that point it switches to your exposure settings)- so long as it can emulate the exposure you're going for while still wide open. The problem will come when the settings you choose don't allow it to remain wide open while showing you a preview of the exposure. Usually this will be a problem in the other direction - the camera will adjust via the auto settings to a point where it can no longer compensate, and the image starts to get darker. In your situation, it get's to that point where there is no other way to compensate - except that it can, by stopping down.

I don't know what you've tried already, but the two settings I would immediately run to would be "Preview WB/Exp" and "natural live view". Setting both of those to off would stop the camera trying to emulate your exposure, but obviously you lose your exposure preview. Other than that I don't think there is much you can do, other than using ND filters and more flexible aperture settings.
 
RichardC27 said:
Hello everyone. I did ask this a while ago when I first got my X-T4 but thought I'd try again as I still can't find a way to stop this happening. Basically, for slow shutter work in bright light I actually shoot at f/22 a reasonable amount of time. For panning shots I'm obviously in AF-C mode to track the subject, but as it says below, the aperture is always at f/22, even when I'm trying to focus. Obviously AF performance at f/22 is not the best, so I want the aperture to stay wide open until I take the shot, as it does on a DSLR.

I get that mirrorless cameras want to show you a 'live' exposure, but I'd rather have the AF performance of having the aperture wide open. How do I get this to happen? I know on Sony cameras there is a setting to make them behave like this but I cannot work it out on my X-T4, if it's even possible.

"After my first weekend out using my X-T4, I have one burning question. Now this may just be something I have to get used to coming from a DSLR, or a unique quirk of Fuji cameras I'm not sure.
Is there a way to prevent the aperture stopping down until the shutter button is pressed? On a DSLR, the aperture is always wide open until you press the shutter button, but on my Fuji the aperture seems "live", for want of a better term, I.e if I set it to f/22, then it's at f/22 all the time. The reason I ask is that AF is obviously rather slow and inaccurate at such small apertures, but I do need to use them quite frequently for slow shutter panning shots, where I need the AF to track a car as I pan."
Click to expand...

Richard, I assume that this is for motorsport work. At F22 you have a vast DOF, so my preference in this sort of situation is to zone focus - I put the camera into Manual focus and then use the BBF (AF button) to focus on the centre of the DOF that I'm trying to capture. You can then pan (and still use a burst mode to acquire images if you wish) and the subject should remain in focus without troubling the AF. This is the technique I use with the GFX as the AF is just too slow for motorsport, I also only take one image per pan, as at 3fps I'm liable to miss the shot I want!!!

jimmyjamjojo said:
using ND filters and more flexible aperture settings.
Click to expand...

ND filters may not help, as the camera will still have to focus through them.
 
jimmyjamjojo said:
I think for the most part they will stay wide open until you shoot (Or rather, until you half-press the shutter button. At that point it switches to your exposure settings)- so long as it can emulate the exposure you're going for while still wide open. The problem will come when the settings you choose don't allow it to remain wide open while showing you a preview of the exposure. Usually this will be a problem in the other direction - the camera will adjust via the auto settings to a point where it can no longer compensate, and the image starts to get darker. In your situation, it get's to that point where there is no other way to compensate - except that it can, by stopping down.

I don't know what you've tried already, but the two settings I would immediately run to would be "Preview WB/Exp" and "natural live view". Setting both of those to off would stop the camera trying to emulate your exposure, but obviously you lose your exposure preview. Other than that I don't think there is much you can do, other than using ND filters and more flexible aperture settings.
Click to expand...

In AF-S mode it seems to stay open until you take the shot. In AF-C it closes down as soon as I press the AF-On button. I've turned all the live preview, exposure and all that off and it still does it in AF-C. Odd. I think it's just a quirk of Fuji cameras. I do need to invest in a couple of ND filters to make this sort of thing easier.
Mr Perceptive said:
Richard, I assume that this is for motorsport work. At F22 you have a vast DOF, so my preference in this sort of situation is to zone focus - I put the camera into Manual focus and then use the BBF (AF button) to focus on the centre of the DOF that I'm trying to capture. You can then pan (and still use a burst mode to acquire images if you wish) and the subject should remain in focus without troubling the AF. This is the technique I use with the GFX as the AF is just too slow for motorsport, I also only take one image per pan, as at 3fps I'm liable to miss the shot I want!!!



ND filters may not help, as the camera will still have to focus through them.
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Yes it's for motorsport, and I've adapted around it by pre-focussing and then stopping the aperture down. I use back-button focus so that's all fine, I just wondered if there was a way to stop the camera behaving like that in AF-C. I'm not someone who sits there holding the shutter button down for a slow pan taking loads of shots, I only take a couple on each pan.

Thank you both for your replies.
 
Fuji Dave said:
As I have never taken out a X camera when it rains, what is the WR like on the X-T3 if I get caught in a down pour ?
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I havent had a problem with mine and it was on Dartmoor on some rainy days. I try to not expose it to the rain overly but if you want to shoot then just use it as it is not made of salt.
My buddy @Topsy has an XT2 and the same applies. He uses the XT2 + 16-55mm f2.8 and I use an XT3 +16-80mm f4. Results from the 16-55 are slightly sharper but it doesnt have the reach of the 16-80.
 
Fuji Dave said:
As I have never taken out a X camera when it rains, what is the WR like on the X-T3 if I get caught in a down pour ?
Click to expand...

Mine got a thorough soaking in seawater - I was doing long exposure stuff on some rocks when a rogue wave washed over. At one point the entire camera was beneath the foamy stuff. Gave it a good scrub with a wet/damp cloth and toothbrush when I got home and it has been fine since - and that was with a non-weather sealed lens on it (Samyang 12mm). I've also used my 18-55mm very briefly in a torrential downpour (see photo). Granted, it was literally poked out from under the cover for a few seconds a couple of times, but it got very wet. I dried it off, and never had a problem with it.

DSCF0136.JPG


I'm kinda between two ideas with it - I don't think weather sealing does as much as manufacturers would have you believe, but I also think you can get away with more than you'd think - In a similar way to my phone or laptop not being weather sealed. They would probably be fine in a light shower (in fact I regularly have to wipe rain off of my phone screen), and even if water does penetrate, removing the battery and drying them out would likely revive them.
 
jimmyjamjojo said:
Mine got a thorough soaking in seawater - I was doing long exposure stuff on some rocks when a rogue wave washed over. At one point the entire camera was beneath the foamy stuff. Gave it a good scrub with a wet/damp cloth and toothbrush when I got home and it has been fine since - and that was with a non-weather sealed lens on it (Samyang 12mm). I've also used my 18-55mm very briefly in a torrential downpour (see photo). Granted, it was literally poked out from under the cover for a few seconds a couple of times, but it got very wet. I dried it off, and never had a problem with it.

View attachment 365026


I'm kinda between two ideas with it - I don't think weather sealing does as much as manufacturers would have you believe, but I also think you can get away with more than you'd think - In a similar way to my phone or laptop not being weather sealed. They would probably be fine in a light shower (in fact I regularly have to wipe rain off of my phone screen), and even if water does penetrate, removing the battery and drying them out would likely revive them.
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THAT IS WILD :D
 
Damian Brown said:
THAT IS WILD :D
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Haha yeah it was a pretty funny day. Went from clear and sunny to rain like that several times on our 2 hour trip along the canals. The best part is that the controls for the boats are outside - that's why the guy is stood there looking like he's given up on life. Only seen rain like that a few times in my life!
 
jimmyjamjojo said:
Mine got a thorough soaking in seawater - I was doing long exposure stuff on some rocks when a rogue wave washed over. At one point the entire camera was beneath the foamy stuff. Gave it a good scrub with a wet/damp cloth and toothbrush when I got home and it has been fine since - and that was with a non-weather sealed lens on it (Samyang 12mm). I've also used my 18-55mm very briefly in a torrential downpour (see photo). Granted, it was literally poked out from under the cover for a few seconds a couple of times, but it got very wet. I dried it off, and never had a problem with it.

View attachment 365026


I'm kinda between two ideas with it - I don't think weather sealing does as much as manufacturers would have you believe, but I also think you can get away with more than you'd think - In a similar way to my phone or laptop not being weather sealed. They would probably be fine in a light shower (in fact I regularly have to wipe rain off of my phone screen), and even if water does penetrate, removing the battery and drying them out would likely revive them.
Click to expand...

Great image mate and beautifully taken.
 
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