The Fabulous Fuji X owners thread

FlyPhot said:
After having some technical problems with Capture One 20 today (drove me to absolute distraction!!!). I finally managed to get this image processed. It's taken under the canopy of a riverside willow, yesterday morning in the mist. I'm just starting to dabble in woodland type pgotography, but i'm fairly happy with this (any critique/hints/pointers most welcome?



X-Pro2; XF16-55 @ 16mm; f11; 1/15; ISO1250
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Dave’s right - print it big.

It‘s a cracking photo. I love this type of moody, atmospheric woodland shot but they’re a complete mystery to me when it comes to making my own. This is a great picture.

(Have a look at Simon Baxter on YouTube if you’ve not already done so.)
 
JasonPC said:
Dave’s right - print it big.

It‘s a cracking photo. I love this type of moody, atmospheric woodland shot but they’re a complete mystery to me when it comes to making my own. This is a great picture.

(Have a look at Simon Baxter on YouTube if you’ve not already done so.)
Click to expand...

Cheers. Yes i've seen Simon Baxter (in fact, he gave this image a like on twitter - chuffed!)
 
stupar said:
Thanks Donna,
Yeah this is the Mk1 Viltrox 85mm.

Thime above image was shot using autofocus. The lens happily locks on with no little to no hunting.
If you are happy to push the ISO then this should be enough to counteract the lack of image stabilisation in the lens.

I shot the above portrait at f2.8, ISO 6400 and 1/250
and used the little flip flash for some fill.

Here's a different shot that has been mildly processed in PS and should showcase how sharp the lens is especially when stopped down a little.

DSCF5554 by Stuart Pardue, on Flickr
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Another great pic. I always seem to have lots of grain with high ISO and have it capped at 3200 (although I struggle with that high too). But still warming to the lens, thanks very much for your comments.

c22w1 said:
Sorry I've only just seen this. The Mkii has a weight saving and maybe one or two other minor things but as far as I am aware they are optically the same. The downside would be that the Mkii will double the cost of what is on offer here, I suppose that only you can decide if thats worth spending the extra.
For me, I am more than happy with the original version, a slight weight saving is not something that would sway me to pay double.
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Great, thank you very much - what about the AF - is this fast on the Mk I lens?
 
Ruffmeister said:
Managed to nab a 50mm f2 from Fuji refurb store today! Pretty much set with my T3 now...

10-24, 35mm f2 and 50mm f2.

Covers most of it for me.
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I heard the 90 mm was a stunning lens ;) Although I’ve never found a long prime to be that useful outside of dedicated portrait photography.
 
Nod said:
Luckily, I'm almost immune to GAS these days, although an 80mm did arrive a few days ago!

Talking of which, does anyone use theirs with a TC and/or tubes? Not done any experimenting yet.
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Now and then I use the mcex 16 (got it cheap, used) with mine. Can get stupid close with it, and no lack of anything pic wise (y)
 
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Ahhyes said:
I heard the 90 mm was a stunning lens ;) Although I’ve never found a long prime to be that useful outside of dedicated portrait photography.
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You heard correctly. Along with the 16 f1.4, it's the best prime they make (OK, I know the 200 f2 is just out of this world, but that's out of most bank balances too!)
 
Jelster said:
You heard correctly. Along with the 16 f1.4, it's the best prime they make (OK, I know the 200 f2 is just out of this world, but that's out of most bank balances too!)
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It’s an obvious conclusion then... :)
 
£600 for a refurbished X-T30 seems a decent deal from the fujifilm shop.
Does anyone know if it has been cheaper in the past? I'll probably pair it with the 18-55 f2.8-4 that I'll get from MPB or Wexphoto.
I'm currently looking for the best deal from a fairly reputable source. Used is fine, but hopefully at least excellent condition.
 
Cliff.Barnes said:
£600 for a refurbished X-T30 seems a decent deal from the fujifilm shop.
Does anyone know if it has been cheaper in the past? I'll probably pair it with the 18-55 f2.8-4 that I'll get from MPB or Wexphoto.
I'm currently looking for the best deal from a fairly reputable source. Used is fine, but hopefully at least excellent condition.
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Have a look at @dancook `s site https://usedlens.co.uk/?search=&ret...ttype=all&length=10&ebay=0&new=0&shipto=local I`ve found it very helpful in the past :thumbs:
 
weebleswobble said:
Another great pic. I always seem to have lots of grain with high ISO and have it capped at 3200 (although I struggle with that high too).
Click to expand...

Donna, the Fuji's are very sensitive to the way the image has been exposed when using high ISO. To get good results you need a balanced histogram, so that you are not lifting the exposure or excessively lifting the shadows in post production. Using this technique will yield great results, with little or no noise reduction being required up to ISO6400 - This applies to X-Trans3 on onwards (X-T2/X-T3/X100F/X-H1/X100V/X-T30/etc/etc). So a well lit, well exposed image will respond well to high ISO shooting, but the proverbial black cat in a coal hole won't.

ISO6400

London - Tube by David Yeoman, on Flickr

ISO6400

Manchester Piccadilly Basin 2 ISO6400 by David Yeoman, on Flickr

ISO5000

Santi Vincenzo e Anastasio a Fontana di Trevi 01 2000px by David Yeoman, on Flickr

I can be quite 'grabby' with the camera when I'm hurrying to get a shot, as in I can move the camera while pressing the shutter, so for my X100F, my default mode is to run AutoISO 200-6400 and set a min shutter speed at 1/200th, as I would rather have a sharp image than a blurry one, then if I do have noise issues I will deal with them in post.

Another thing to note is that ACROS Film Simulation has unique noise handling algorithms, these are 'only' in the FujiFilm Cameras, Post Production Simulations eg Lightroom, etc are not quite the same, and it enables decent images to be obtained even at very high ISO's
 
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Quick generic Fuji question if I may..... when snapping with JPG (haven’t shot raw since trying it once on my Canon 40D about 12 years ago) and using an in-camera film sim, does the camera write anything to the EXiF to tell you that it was taken using a film sim and more importantly which one it was :thinking:

Obviously seeing Classic Neg vs Acros is easy as one is mono but what if using some with Acros and some with Acros R for example?
 
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bl0at3r said:
Quick generic Fuji question if I may..... when snapping with JPG (haven’t shot raw since trying it once on my Canon 40D about 12 years ago) and using an in-camera film sim, does the camera write anything to the EXiF to tell you that it was taken using a film sim and more importantly which one it was :thinking:

Obviously seeing Classic Neg vs Acros is easy as one is mono but what if using some with Acros and some with Acros R for example?
Click to expand...

Have a look here https://www.fujix-forum.com/threads...-thumbnail-display-for-fujifilm-images.45629/

Everything you could ever need and more!!!!
 
bl0at3r said:
Quick generic Fuji question if I may..... when snapping with JPG (haven’t shot raw since trying it once on my Canon 40D about 12 years ago) and using an in-camera film sim, does the camera write anything to the EXiF to tell you that it was taken using a film sim and more importantly which one it was :thinking:

Obviously seeing Classic Neg vs Acros is easy as one is mono but what if using some with Acros and some with Acros R for example?
Click to expand...

Alan, I always find it interesting how different people work with their cameras. Some such as your good self only shoot in jpg, some shoot both Raw + JPG as a back up, I have never shot a JPG in my life not even with my cell phone and have never used a film sim. I only ever shoot in RAW as I like to be in full control of everything and I don’t use Adobe to PP my snaps only their free DNG converter to convert the files so no film sims etc on the software I use.

I really must try shooting some snaps using the JPG format as I’ve heard they can be extremely good from the Fuji units.

George.
 
popcorn said:
After a week of decorating, my PC is finally back up and running, so I've processed another image from last weeks Peak District sunset. I'm hoping to get out with the camera again tomorrow or Thursday, espicially as I have a new lens to try out!


Peak District Sunset by Chris Gash, on Flickr
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Great capture from foreground to background. Love the subtle colours
 
Mr Perceptive said:
Have a look here https://www.fujix-forum.com/threads...-thumbnail-display-for-fujifilm-images.45629/

Everything you could ever need and more!!!!
Click to expand...

Thanks @Mr Perceptive

According to this https://exiftool.org/TagNames/FujiFilm.html

Some film sims (Acros) are stored in the Saturation EXiF tag and the rest in the FilmMode.

Now to find a way to read them in LRC :sneaky:


edit - found this on dpreview forum.....

As others have pointed out, the answer is yes, but it's in the "maker notes", not in one of the standard EXIF fields. That means you need a tool that can read and interpret the maker notes. You didn't mention what image viewer/organizer you use, but you might want to Google the question of whether it can read maker notes for Fuji, or whether it can use a plugin that will add that capability.

For example, I use Lightroom to manage my photos, and there's a plugin from a developer named Jeffrey Friedl which makes Exiftool available in Lightroom. Exiftool can read most maker notes from most manufacturers, including Fuji. Friedl's plugin is called Metadata Viewer.

In use, Metadata Viewer is not as convenient as Lightroom's own native metadata viewer—you have to invoke it as a separate operation for any photo where you want to use it. But it does allow me to view all the available metadata, including maker notes (which Lightroom will not read on its own), from nearly all cameras without leaving Lightroom.

a Lightroom plugin: Fujifilm X System / SLR Talk Forum: Digital Photography Review

Expert news, reviews and videos of the latest digital cameras, lenses, accessories, and phones. Get answers to your questions in our photography forums.
www.dpreview.com www.dpreview.com


edit edit - this appears to be useful too

ExifTool by Phil Harvey

A command-line application and Perl library for reading and writing EXIF, GPS, IPTC, XMP, makernotes and other meta information in image, audio and video files. For Windows, MacOS, and Unix systems.
exiftool.org exiftool.org
 
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G.K.Jnr. said:
Alan, I always find it interesting how different people work with their cameras. Some such as your good self only shoot in jpg, some shoot both Raw + JPG as a back up, I have never shot a JPG in my life not even with my cell phone and have never used a film sim. I only ever shoot in RAW as I like to be in full control of everything and I don’t use Adobe to PP my snaps only their free DNG converter to convert the files so no film sims etc on the software I use.

I really must try shooting some snaps using the JPG format as I’ve heard they can be extremely good from the Fuji units.

George.
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Indeed it is interesting @G.K.Jnr. - we‘re all different (but the same)
 
bl0at3r said:
Thanks @Mr Perceptive

According to this https://exiftool.org/TagNames/FujiFilm.html

Some film sims (Acros) are stored in the Saturation EXiF tag and the rest in the FilmMode.

Now to find a way to read them in LRC :sneaky:
Click to expand...

You have to edit the EXIF and put the film sim into User Comments field, then I believe it will be visible via LR - potentially quite a soul destroying exercise.....

The best way might be to manage them on import and import them in blocks into separate folders, so you end up with Shoot Title as the main folder and Film Sim sub folders, but that requires a thought process and management on your side!!!
 
Xt4 smallrig l bracket.

This is the black handle version. Very comfy but does slightly hinder the screen opening. Mine is almost always facing in or flat on the camera.
You could also chop the top section off the side bracket so it doesn't get in the way. I may do this because it still fits into a tripod without this bit on.
(Chop off the top 'U' bit)

I have an alternate in post below.
 

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If you have the vertical grip ad a generic L bracket and the screen is fully operational with zero interference.
 

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popcorn said:
After a week of decorating, my PC is finally back up and running, so I've processed another image from last weeks Peak District sunset. I'm hoping to get out with the camera again tomorrow or Thursday, espicially as I have a new lens to try out!


Peak District Sunset by Chris Gash, on Flickr
Click to expand...


"Cracking" landscape style Fujigraph Chris, nothing more to be said.

George.
 
popcorn said:
After a week of decorating, my PC is finally back up and running, so I've processed another image from last weeks Peak District sunset. I'm hoping to get out with the camera again tomorrow or Thursday, espicially as I have a new lens to try out!


Peak District Sunset by Chris Gash, on Flickr
Click to expand...

That‘s a stunner. Loads of interest, nice colours and a cracking sky.:)
 
twist said:
Sounds fun
Click to expand...

It should be, first time I will have seen him since I broke my ankle, that with lockdown and the fact that he lives in Wales with his Mum has meant that we've not been able to meet up (other than virtually) - its on his home turf as well and not somewhere where I have shot before - he's already bleating on about the power of Canon's colour science :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO:
 
No Longer Available.

George.
 
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Mr Perceptive said:
Donna, the Fuji's are very sensitive to the way the image has been exposed when using high ISO. To get good results you need a balanced histogram, so that you are not lifting the exposure or excessively lifting the shadows in post production. Using this technique will yield great results, with little or no noise reduction being required up to ISO6400 - This applies to X-Trans3 on onwards (X-T2/X-T3/X100F/X-H1/X100V/X-T30/etc/etc). So a well lit, well exposed image will respond well to high ISO shooting, but the proverbial black cat in a coal hole won't.

ISO6400

London - Tube by David Yeoman, on Flickr

ISO6400

Manchester Piccadilly Basin 2 ISO6400 by David Yeoman, on Flickr

ISO5000

Santi Vincenzo e Anastasio a Fontana di Trevi 01 2000px by David Yeoman, on Flickr

I can be quite 'grabby' with the camera when I'm hurrying to get a shot, as in I can move the camera while pressing the shutter, so for my X100F, my default mode is to run AutoISO 200-6400 and set a min shutter speed at 1/200th, as I would rather have a sharp image than a blurry one, then if I do have noise issues I will deal with them in post.

Another thing to note is that ACROS Film Simulation has unique noise handling algorithms, these are 'only' in the FujiFilm Cameras, Post Production Simulations eg Lightroom, etc are not quite the same, and it enables decent images to be obtained even at very high ISO's
Click to expand...
That's really helpful thank you, I normally shoot in RAW only but must try others as well so I can try out the ACROS Film Simulation. Must play more with the camera and capabilities (and also see how to cap the shutter speed - as I don't have that). To tell the truth I don't know even how to set the jpeg settings, so will read up on this too! So all these great colours and presets that Fuji offer, I have never taken advantage of! What do people set their jpegs at - fine?
 
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