The Fabulous Fuji X owners thread

Well, thats all my kit sent back. Now to sit and wait and find out how much my dabble with Fuji is going to cost me....Nikon P7800 compact for me for a while now!
 
Lensflare said:
Well, thats all my kit sent back. Now to sit and wait and find out how much my dabble with Fuji is going to cost me....Nikon P7800 compact for me for a while now!
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Ouch !!
 
Dave70D said:
One XF 90mm f2 ordered so should have it in a few days :)
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One XF 90mm delivered, thank you Wex for the great service. I had to go out today so had the lens delivered to my Mums so will pick it up in the morning and it can live on the X-T2 :)
 
Can I please ask advice regards shooting night time photography with either a XT1 and/or XP1, as last night I slightly dabbled in it and enjoyed it......a lot.


Castlebrae by APM Photography, on Flickr



My questions are;

Is it best to shoot with a neutral density filter so the shutter stays opens for much longer which makes the skies more dramatic?

Which f/stop and iso setting is best to select for this.......is there a set f/stop or sweet spot for best results?

How do you take the XT1 off automatic exposure and shoot manually to increase the time lapse? (I don't mean auto focus)

I'm guessing both my XF10-24mm and XF18-55mm lenses are suitable/versatile for this style of night time photography?

Do you need to turn off 'image stabilisation' when shooting on a tripod for long periods of open shutter/captures?


Sorry for all the questions......but I'm intrigued.

Peter


 
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macvisual said:
Can I please ask advice regards shooting night time photography with either a XT1 and/or XP1, as last night I slightly dabbled in it and enjoyed it......a lot.


Castlebrae by APM Photography, on Flickr



My questions are;

Is it best to shoot with a neutral density filter so the shutter stays opens for much longer which makes the skies more dramatic?

Which f/stop and iso setting is best to select for this.......is there a set f/stop or sweet spot for best results?

How do you take the XT1 off automatic exposure and shoot manually to increase the time lapse? (I don't mean auto focus)

I'm guessing both my XF10-24mm and XF18-55mm lenses are suitable/versatile for this style of night time photography?

Do you need to turn off 'image stabilisation' when shooting on a tripod for long periods of open shutter/captures?


Sorry for all the questions......but I'm intrigued.

Peter
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- Make sure you have a decent stable tripod.

- At night time your shutter speed will be low enough that you will not need a ND filter.

- When it comes to ISO, always use the lowest possible.

- For your attached photo I would recommend f stop 5.6 to 8.

- To have full manual control, rotate the ISO and shutter speed dials away from the A position on your XT1. Also, rotate the lens ring away from the A position. Choose your fstop, say f8, the ISO 200 and finally adjust your shutter speed to achieve the required result. Make sure that the histogram is turned on or at least you can see the picture preview on the screen/EVF.

- Both of your lenses are very capable of achieving amazing results.

- And yes, make sure that the OIS is of when using a tripod.

Hope this is helpful
 
macvisual said:
Can I please ask advice regards shooting night time photography with either a XT1 and/or XP1, as last night I slightly dabbled in it and enjoyed it......a lot.


Castlebrae by APM Photography, on Flickr



My questions are;

Is it best to shoot with a neutral density filter so the shutter stays opens for much longer which makes the skies more dramatic?

Which f/stop and iso setting is best to select for this.......is there a set f/stop or sweet spot for best results?

How do you take the XT1 off automatic exposure and shoot manually to increase the time lapse? (I don't mean auto focus)

I'm guessing both my XF10-24mm and XF18-55mm lenses are suitable/versatile for this style of night time photography?

Do you need to turn off 'image stabilisation' when shooting on a tripod for long periods of open shutter/captures?


Sorry for all the questions......but I'm intrigued.

Peter
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architectfadi said:
- Make sure you have a decent stable tripod.

- At night time your shutter speed will be low enough that you will not need a ND filter.

- When it comes to ISO, always use the lowest possible.

- For your attached photo I would recommend f stop 5.6 to 8.

- To have full manual control, rotate the ISO and shutter speed dials away from the A position on your XT1. Also, rotate the lens ring away from the A position. Choose your fstop, say f8, the ISO 200 and finally adjust your shutter speed to achieve the required result. Make sure that the histogram is turned on or at least you can see the picture preview on the screen/EVF.

- Both of your lenses are very capable of achieving amazing results.

- And yes, make sure that the OIS is of when using a tripod.

Hope this is helpful
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In addition to the above, expose carefully for the highlights - otherwise lights get too blown out. the Histogram is king here.

Using smaller apertures will accentuate starburst on lights (though not as prominent on XF18-55)

Consider bracketing to increase the dynamic range, and make a gentle HDR image. This can make lights appear much better and not as white blown out spots.

Shoot in blue hour, before it gets dark.- some colour in the sky helps.


Whitby - End Of Day by David Yeoman, on Flickr
 
jimmyjamjojo said:
Nice motor. I have the diesel. :)
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So did Dad till Sunday - I had use of it whilst my FTO was off the road for repairs, decided I'd get my own but in Type R form, I was particularly drawn to the under boot cubby hole for camera gear - till I learned just how leaky these things are!
 
Mr Perceptive said:
In addition to the above, expose carefully for the highlights - otherwise lights get too blown out. the Histogram is king here.

Using smaller apertures will accentuate starburst on lights (though not as prominent on XF18-55)

Consider bracketing to increase the dynamic range, and make a gentle HDR image. This can make lights appear much better and not as white blown out spots.

Shoot in blue hour, before it gets dark.- some colour in the sky helps.


Whitby - End Of Day by David Yeoman, on Flickr
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Very nice capture David, I like that a lot.

So generally best shoot around f/8 - f/5.6 for best sharp results and it shouldn't blow out the white lights etc...? I've never shot 'HDR' via the XT1 and wouldn't know where to start.....(?)


Great advice from all replied -- thank you, keep the advice coming and I'd appreciate any long exposure images shown, thanks.

Peter
 
macvisual said:
Very nice capture David, I like that a lot.

So generally best shoot around f/8 - f/5.6 for best sharp results and it shouldn't blow out the white lights etc...? I've never shot 'HDR' via the XT1 and wouldn't know where to start.....(?)


Great advice from all replied -- thank you, keep the advice coming and I'd appreciate any long exposure images shown, thanks.

Peter
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Peter, the aperture does not stop you blowing out the lights, use the histogram for that. (Personally I'd be around F11 on a night time shoot to get some starburst effects on the lights).

I did this image for another forum showing the bracketing process, the sun was the problem in this one, but same principle - 9 shot bracket, merged in Lightroom.

pwEftFuh.jpg


Final Image (not how aerial is still visible through sun)


Dungeness-4 by David Yeoman, on Flickr
 
macvisual said:
Very nice capture David, I like that a lot.

So generally best shoot around f/8 - f/5.6 for best sharp results and it shouldn't blow out the white lights etc...? I've never shot 'HDR' via the XT1 and wouldn't know where to start.....(?)


Great advice from all replied -- thank you, keep the advice coming and I'd appreciate any long exposure images shown, thanks.

Peter
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Good advice so far, and yes, the problem is that as it gets darker, night scenes can get contrasty beyond the dynamic range of your sensor, particularly when you have artificial lights, which is why David is suggesting blending exposures (I agree).

Your histogram will help a lot, but very small burned out areas may not be obvious, and bracketing exposures is good insurance against missing something.

If you want more advice on this blending technique, Serge Ramelli (who takes a lot of night-time cityscapes, his style is not quite right for me but I learned a lot from him) and Jimmy McIntyre both have very good free video lessons. You don't have to use HDR software - Jimmy blends all of his by hand using luminosity masks, and that's usually my approach too.

That's the other reason to shot in the blue hour - not only is there colour in the sky, the overall contrast of the scene isn't as great.

Whether you will need an ND filter depends somewhat on how much you want to blur the sky, but most people would say not.

Always shoot RAW so you can adjust the white balance later - often, there is no "right" setting and it's a question of what result you prefer.

And yes, in theory you should turn off IS on a tripod, although whether the difference is visible is debatable. You may also find it useful to remove any UV filters, etc. as they can do more harm than good.
 
Pick said:
View attachment 132518
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It's a lovely scene, but the blown highlights are a bit severe for me, particularly at the base of the waterfall.

On a cloudy day I can't imagine they were blown in camera. Maybe check out where you set the white level in PP, unless you just went over the top with dodge and burn??
 
Despite weeks and weeks of hot,dry days, this corner of my garden looks quite verdant:

Patio Aug 2018 by Andrew R, on Flickr

Just trying out the XF27 I've recently acquired from Marc
 
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