The Fabulous Fuji X owners thread

To be honest, I'm using the same cards, so if you have reset the camera back to the factory defaults, without doing anything else, it should work, with no issue. Once running, then change some of the settings to suit. I take it all 3 batteries, are all original Fuji NP-W126S?

Have you been using the same cards for all of these cameras? If it were me, I would look at changing them, just to rule those out, as they can, if faulty/corrupt, lock up the camera.
 
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Lensflare said:
But not willing to share any info on how you make it work......
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Simon, I run a pair of X-T2's and have hardly touched the menu settings.

What issues are you having in general? I know you've had problems, but I'm trying to understand where these are coming from.

Basic settings:

IQ - Fine & Raw
Raw - Uncompressed
Grain Effect - Off
Dynamic Range - currently set at 200, but it's usually 100
WB - Auto
All the image settings are at 0
Long Exp NR is on
Lens Modulation is On
Colour space - sRGB

AF Menu
AF mode - all
Store AF by Orientation - On
Focus points - 325
Pre-AF on
Face/Eye - Off (I rarely shoot portraits)
AF+MF - On
Focus Check - On
Interlock - On
Instant AF - AF=S
DoF scale - Film Format
Shutter - M+E
Flicker red - Off
ISO Auto Setting - 2


What else do you need?
 
Jelster said:
Simon, I run a pair of X-T2's and have hardly touched the menu settings.

What issues are you having in general? I know you've had problems, but I'm trying to understand where these are coming from.

Basic settings:

IQ - Fine & Raw
Raw - Uncompressed
Grain Effect - Off
Dynamic Range - currently set at 200, but it's usually 100
WB - Auto
All the image settings are at 0
Long Exp NR is on
Lens Modulation is On
Colour space - sRGB

AF Menu
AF mode - all
Store AF by Orientation - On
Focus points - 325
Pre-AF on
Face/Eye - Off (I rarely shoot portraits)
AF+MF - On
Focus Check - On
Interlock - On
Instant AF - AF=S
DoF scale - Film Format
Shutter - M+E
Flicker red - Off
ISO Auto Setting - 2


What else do you need?
Click to expand...


BLOODY MARVELLOUS !!!
Thank you very much. At least I now have something to compare to, rather than working blind as it were. I will have a go tomorrow and see how I get on with whatever comes in view and report back.

Interesting you have set the shadow tone and stuff to '0' - on here before I was suggested to go to -2, so I will put it to '0' and try again. The other bits seem similar.
 
Lensflare said:
BLOODY MARVELLOUS !!!
Thank you very much. At least I now have something to compare to, rather than working blind as it were. I will have a go tomorrow and see how I get on with whatever comes in view and report back.

Interesting you have set the shadow tone and stuff to '0' - on here before I was suggested to go to -2, so I will put it to '0' and try again. The other bits seem similar.
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Glad to be of help. As I tend to edit my RAW images, I can't see the point in messing with settings that only effect the JPG output. I shoot RAW + JPG, mainly because if I want to upload something to social media while I'm out, I'll transfer the JPG to my iPad, do any basic editing there, and fire it off. Any serious PP is done on the RAW when I get home.
 
Here's a couple from my X-T10 last Saturday evening. Any tips welcome.


FuQihTR50sKS-9_ODlwf7lH6mOhLeV7UWAI4eNsavSREAmY-cTLETd8xiEm0OMRtBTD9-CZ4ukRyf8O_x4HFAJtdvUI9632ZwZO60KxdL1CWS1NFZY_TSVOjSTYnHS8vZ_lGmZ_DhLCwLjLzUOFIoDbT48nUIUiN1cOoEPWvDrTlsYAbUnOUpeFE_WpNgfNNId-hzsqGicsVre5IukpPrayruJwoQHsJSRxoehCusPA-LC1fBtV6A6ybQ1ndHsD2CACPSmUxLv4r9Gy1L5g3liDFrFXw5XKpg2mmnp5uz5kbF57WF-5xp156HJg1i7iSOx-ZXPUEJBAND9AqLBolY41JHhoUTIBiVe8HipJUqFleQUvbzgZ4liQ5xJRyyABDZoBk3q0Nk_OMJGAylnhdagcdQckE9K7RTU3RnHW8xqGTTNlPDlbVSb6lh7oE6xmqzkx1WEDyE-SNE4GJgCtSqHvMdfxdflpnNMSVRQtgfWAhDjgwFqCmYgZQmA3cyEs6qc_CUohSWR3EcT9xp6hlg6mcjQOJUe9u3RXQzARd5zwL38HQTkHdrRl4oAHwYWoK_nteIaBKcjBr3LDc48_QLDEz7b8XEVH-0OBXEl1VOYCKIPtX9auDHj1-H9rSsBgQWaB_NCAYqlSlfZzJKqc4-GTIxyr-DeKm=w1024-h1040-no


hYdNxVS0IdjpnnQMb2P75xS59mjtRhkht0ebPAX_BnQPQIFALf5u8e1gZDtnIFsQrYOyPU22HnbF50jUQFR3jjO9iXryIcZ4mPDp2xUoxI2GJuKiu4ZxlD3cOWPYekNnI7HeYjCWDTxmpYaotys6PE7m-YhIYkM5kQNWLRdKDLlhQbTcUebFT6AzcbJIaRjar-qniSktnBKnwMV9gW-AU_fCCA4WiLvdwOk22KNtszjMESYylORFkKQl81Vdglt95Mc4Du13AIwdQhP6aHUQCQhUDLXotxVJdvSVkRFLQiSYY2X1CJ9oW_4pDKRUnCMgkW0cERSO38Y-ybmHOtBY_lr1XNyJg1ME3luez-Ngw2HotuXExCgGwwGPFbQtQLFwQQA0VmyZw-cA4M9EjgkmSWTw647ipQsGAlNRjkJmOv4kGoTmQu00nDMwwdR718IDq7Z7zdrEkQ-ofZp3cMVBg3EqkCKJjyHnS9MhE0KRfGbFyr6FAYv6Mj1-BBUFMcJNUwYCyPQancn1uKfbBS7-keyfob1qVUokIfPeopUlSJzUbED4NhvQYMnDMp4Fe2566vEWUy3iLiLknjqNmYiVzHWUl0oAwJrvffGeix5CWAfWBHGv47cHDBNq1LDLsXgLzmM0Ycvt3_1QJC8LRI9mQpPQ4dZtDKhg=w1024-h1040-no
 
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Jelster said:
Glad to be of help. As I tend to edit my RAW images, I can't see the point in messing with settings that only effect the JPG output. I shoot RAW + JPG, mainly because if I want to upload something to social media while I'm out, I'll transfer the JPG to my iPad, do any basic editing there, and fire it off. Any serious PP is done on the RAW when I get home.
Click to expand...

AH, I can't shoot RAW from the Fuji, I can't work on RAW files from the Fuji. I have NX2 (or whatever the last version was called) and that is the only editing suite I have ever used.....stayed with film too long! The NXCapture NX2 came with one of the digital bodies and I spent years with a book on the system that I still refer to. I have tried to download the Fuji RAW decoder thing, but my computer doesn't like it. I do not have the money for a new computer, or the basic understanding to learn a whole new computer system - I can't work an Ipad for instance, I have tried, I just can't get into the mode for it. I know people have said I need to 'get with the new technology' BELIEVE ME I have tried - I cannot retain it. Hence why, something like 10 years down the line of only using that editing programme, I am still referring to the book to do things and I have to do each and every picture individually too, because I can't work out how to do the batch processing set up. I have no doubt a 6 year old could do it, but that doesn't help me! I found out the other day, trying to order the graphics for my bike rebuild, that I cannot see loads of things on the computer screen - my son came to help me order them and he could see buttons and words that to me were plain white areas with nothing on them because, he says, they were pale grey on white - so they were just completely camouflaged on the screen for my eyes. Something for you website chappies to bear in mind, not everyone has the ability to pick that kind of low contrast out.
I refuse to be hemmed in by a subscription program too - I want to own my program outright, all these new ones won't allow you to own the CD, they want you to pay a monthly subscription - sorry NO. Sky the same, we have given up the TV because of subscriptions. The radio is our companion now. Old, cantankerous and stuck in my ways. Yep.

So, I shoot jpeg straight out of the camera and expect them to be like my trannies were - if it can't do that it is no use to me. The D4s does and I am inclined to get a D4s outfit to take with me next week, I just don't have the confidence in the Fuji kit to risk taking it alone (I can't take both, weight restrictions etc).

I hope that gives a bit more insight.
 
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I've set both evf and lcd brightness to +3 to meet my personal preference for reviewing shots in camera.
 
Lensflare said:
AH, I can't shoot RAW from the Fuji, I can't work on RAW files from the Fuji. I have NX2 (or whatever the last version was called) and that is the only editing suite I have ever used.....stayed with film too long! The NXCapture NX2 came with one of the digital bodies and I spent years with a book on the system that I still refer to. I have tried to download the Fuji RAW decoder thing, but my computer doesn't like it. I do not have the money for a new computer, or the basic understanding to learn a whole new computer system - I can't work an Ipad for instance, I have tried, I just can't get into the mode for it. I know people have said I need to 'get with the new technology' BELIEVE ME I have tried - I cannot retain it. Hence why, something like 10 years down the line of only using that editing programme, I am still referring to the book to do things and I have to do each and every picture individually too, because I can't work out how to do the batch processing set up. I have no doubt a 6 year old could do it, but that doesn't help me! I found out the other day, trying to order the graphics for my bike rebuild, that I cannot see loads of things on the computer screen - my son came to help me order them and he could see buttons and words that to me were plain white areas with nothing on them because, he says, they were pale grey on white - so they were just completely camouflaged on the screen for my eyes. Something for you website chappies to bear in mind, not everyone has the ability to pick that kind of low contrast out.
I refuse to be hemmed in by a subscription program too - I want to own my program outright, all these new ones won't allow you to own the CD, they want you to pay a monthly subscription - sorry NO. Sky the same, we have given up the TV because of subscriptions. The radio is our companion now. Old, cantankerous and stuck in my ways. Yep.

So, I shoot jpeg straight out of the camera and expect them to be like my trannies were - if it can't do that it is no use to me. The D4s does and I am inclined to get a D4s outfit to take with me next week, I just don't have the confidence in the Fuji kit to risk taking it alone (I can't take both, weight restrictions etc).

I hope that gives a bit more insight.
Click to expand...

Simon, the majority of photographers these days work with Raw. Whilst the JPGs from Fuji are excellent, RAW files five you much more latitude.

Yes we would all like to get everything perfect in camera, but maybe I've just got lazy, as I know that as long as it's in focus and reasonably exposed, I can probably manipulate the RAW to give me a good final image.

I struggle with the concept that, a professional in this day & age, won't work with the best possible base image, namely a RAW file. Each to their own I guess...
 
Jelster said:
Simon, the majority of photographers these days work with Raw. Whilst the JPGs from Fuji are excellent, RAW files five you much more latitude.

Yes we would all like to get everything perfect in camera, but maybe I've just got lazy, as I know that as long as it's in focus and reasonably exposed, I can probably manipulate the RAW to give me a good final image.

I struggle with the concept that, a professional in this day & age, won't work with the best possible base image, namely a RAW file. Each to their own I guess...
Click to expand...

I simply don't have the time to - time constraints of working on all the shots, because I don't choose which get used. I dump them and before they are through the selection I am already on my way to the next job....if you have ability to work on 50 - 80 shots in an hour or so, then great. The way it works is, I download and dump them, the editor will go through and select maybe 50-80, then they select maybe 6-10 for the feature. Those get worked on, the rest get binned, or some selected for possible 'library use' for future features. Basically the same process as when pouring over a lightbox with a chinagraph....the selected shots got cut out of the film strips and worked into the pages. The rest went into a big, brown envelope, many of them folded in half, never to be seen again.....
 
Phiggys said:
Day trip to North Wales
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That one looks a bit over sharpened to me Phil (or maybe something else). Had a look at the original on Flickr at full size which convinced me it's not up to your normal high standard mate... Sorry if that sounds a little harsh but your stuff is normally faultless.
 
Jelster said:
That one looks a bit over sharpened to me Phil (or maybe something else). Had a look at the original on Flickr at full size which convinced me it's not up to your normal high standard mate... Sorry if that sounds a little harsh but your stuff is normally faultless.
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I agree. Sizeable halos around the hills and trees, too.

Just need to back off the PP a touch and you'd have a nice image (something I'm guilty of doing regularly!)
 
Ian W said:
I agree. Sizeable halos around the hills and trees, too.

Just need to back off the PP a touch and you'd have a nice image (something I'm guilty of doing regularly!)
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Since we're all dogpiling on poor Phil :-), I'd say you've crushed the blacks rather too much as well, though that is more a personal taste question.
 
dave.hallett said:
Since we're all dogpiling on poor Phil :), I'd say you've crushed the blacks rather too much as well, though that is more a personal taste question.
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:rolleyes: Black is black, it has no detail, but dark greys...... (My wife told me this, but she also told me there are colours such as "sage", moss" and "duck egg". I don't see those on my spectrum at all :D
 
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Well, a quick update. My lad was playing cricket yesterday so I went to watch and took the Fuji with me, to play around with it and see if I could get something....... the shutter lag is something else! And the burst isn't very fast either, despite being on boost - 5 or 6fps? I thought it was meant to be 11 - result is, his bowling, i didn't manage one shot with him at the point of release (a bread and butter shot) and similar with the batting, because of the lag rather than the slow motordrive - normally you only fire 2 or 3 shots anyway, to conserve film! The first 1 or 2 are on the money, the third is just 'follow-through' as you lift your finger. Not ONE - he got MotM though, with a 14 NO (he bats 8) and bowling figures of 11 overs, 5 maidens, 7-27 (at one stage he was 6-15, but they dropped the tailend twice and let edges through for boundaries!)

I am still getting very fluctuating exposures too - even set on M with nothing being changed, the light yesterday was just solid, not a cloud in the sky to change anything from one minute to the next...but exposures in a sequence are all different. there is no continuity to them. How the hell do you work with that? Over exposed to the point of being burnt out, or blocked up with maybe one or two spot on. No filters or anything. Strange.

Now, having said that - on video (I did a clip and he happened to bowl and catch in the 6 seconds I filmed!) is spot on. Shot on A..... I don't understand it.
 
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Lensflare said:
Well, a quick update. My lad was playing cricket yesterday so I went to watch and took the Fuji with me, to play around with it and see if I could get something....... the shutter lag is something else! And the burst isn't very fast either, despite being on boost - 5 or 6fps? I thought it was meant to be 11 - result is, his bowling, i didn't manage one shot with him at the point of release (a bread and butter shot) and similar with the batting, because of the lag rather than the slow motordrive - normally you only fire 2 or 3 shots anyway, to conserve film! The first 1 or 2 are on the money, the third is just 'follow-through' as you lift your finger. Not ONE - he got MotM though, with a 14 NO (he bats 8) and bowling figures of 11 overs, 5 maidens, 7-27 (at one stage he was 6-15, but they dropped the tailend twice and let edges through for boundaries!)

I am still getting very fluctuating exposures too - even set on M with nothing being changed, the light yesterday was just solid, not a cloud in the sky to change anything from one minute to the next...but exposures in a sequence are all different. there is no continuity to them. How the hell do you work with that? Over exposed to the point of being burnt out, or blocked up with maybe one or two spot on. No filters or anything. Strange.

Now, having said that - on video (I did a clip and he happened to bowl and catch in the 6 seconds I filmed!) is spot on. Shot on A..... I don't understand it.
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Sounds very similar to a problem I had with X-T1 years ago, for not apparent reason it was acting like it was bracketing, and showing weird exposure values in the EVF along with a few other things. Factory reset sorted it.
 
Alan Clogwyn said:
Sounds very similar to a problem I had with X-T1 years ago, for not apparent reason it was acting like it was bracketing, and showing weird exposure values in the EVF along with a few other things. Factory reset sorted it.
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Thanks - this is another, brand new one from the Fuji loan stock..... it must be a common fault, I can't be getting the only ones. When mine comes back from Fuji hopefully it will all be sorted and I'll be happier - but at the moment it is just frustrating and I am not confident in taking it for a prestigious job overseas - yet that was precisely the reason I looked at the Fuji system - lighter and more compact than the full frame Nikon. I'll get there, even though I am supposed to be semi-retired I am getting as much work as ever....with no website and no real understanding of the modern computer world either!
 
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Lensflare said:
Well, a quick update. My lad was playing cricket yesterday so I went to watch and took the Fuji with me, to play around with it and see if I could get something....... the shutter lag is something else! And the burst isn't very fast either, despite being on boost - 5 or 6fps? I thought it was meant to be 11 - result is, his bowling, i didn't manage one shot with him at the point of release (a bread and butter shot) and similar with the batting, because of the lag rather than the slow motordrive - normally you only fire 2 or 3 shots anyway, to conserve film! The first 1 or 2 are on the money, the third is just 'follow-through' as you lift your finger. Not ONE - he got MotM though, with a 14 NO (he bats 8) and bowling figures of 11 overs, 5 maidens, 7-27 (at one stage he was 6-15, but they dropped the tailend twice and let edges through for boundaries!)

I am still getting very fluctuating exposures too - even set on M with nothing being changed, the light yesterday was just solid, not a cloud in the sky to change anything from one minute to the next...but exposures in a sequence are all different. there is no continuity to them. How the hell do you work with that? Over exposed to the point of being burnt out, or blocked up with maybe one or two spot on. No filters or anything. Strange.

Now, having said that - on video (I did a clip and he happened to bowl and catch in the 6 seconds I filmed!) is spot on. Shot on A..... I don't understand it.
Click to expand...

It's 11fps with the grip in boost mode. Mine is so fast I generally run it on the low setting. Been out with it birding today and if fires off like anything. The 100-400 with 1.4TC is a bit pedestrian in focus speed, but I'm used to that. Without the 1.4 it's fine, the 50-140 is very fast.

To be honest Simon, I din't understand why you are having all these issues. Fuji is just not for you, if you want to keep with a mirrorless set up, have a play with the Sony....
 
Jelster said:
I struggle with the concept that, a professional in this day & age, won't work with the best possible base image, namely a RAW file. Each to their own I guess...
Click to expand...

I'm part of the X-Weddings group, a fairly significant number appear to shoot JPEG including at least one of the most well known Fuji shooters.

Probably the biggest difference I've noticed between the Fuji gear and the Sony a7RII. With the Sony you can basically be as lazy as you like if you wanted and sort everything in post, the files handle an immense amount of abuse. The Fuji files demand something closer to the final product to really get the best from them. If you're skilled enough to nail it almost all of the time I can see why shooting JPEG would be very appealing.
 
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ukaskew said:
I'm part of the X-Weddings group, a fairly significant number appear to shoot JPEG including at least one of the most well known Fuji shooters.

Probably the biggest difference I've noticed between the Fuji gear and the Sony a7RII. With the Sony you can basically be as lazy as you like if you wanted and sort everything in post, the files handle an immense amount of abuse. The Fuji files demand something closer to the final product to really get the best from them. If you're skilled enough to nail it almost all of the time I can see why shooting JPEG would be very appealing.
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Chris, I really get that, but when getting shots SOOC just isn't working (like for Simon) having a base file with all the information has to be a better way to go. Some of my Fuji JPG's are stunning, even after 2 years of using the system, they still astound me at times, but when it doesn't go right, I am amazed at what I can can pull back out of a Fuji RAW file from Lightroom.
 
@Lensflare

Simon. I’ve got to say that in your shoes I’d have given up on Fuji. Fair play to you. You’re doing your best to get it sorted.
But it strikes me that a pair of Nikon D500 would be the way to go.
 
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