SsSsSsSsSnake
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the X100c focuses faster@dibbly dobbler And its very pedestrian in auto-focus, you have to send it a postcard and when it receives it it will focus - sharp though!!
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the X100c focuses faster@dibbly dobbler And its very pedestrian in auto-focus, you have to send it a postcard and when it receives it it will focus - sharp though!!
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Mike ,what you do in your own time is up to you, who am I to point the fingerOk - enough prevaricating! Have found a decent deal on the Samyang and am off to order it
Thanks Gents![]()

Mike ,what you do in your own time is up to you, who am I to point the finger![]()


Both great, but that first one is a beauty [emoji1376]Just back from Torridon - got a few snaps, mostly with the XT20 and 10-24
The Liathach and Beinn Alligin by Mike Smith, on Flickr
Beinn Eighe from Loch Clair by Mike Smith, on Flickr
Just back from Torridon - got a few snaps, mostly with the XT20 and 10-24
The Liathach and Beinn Alligin by Mike Smith, on Flickr
Beinn Eighe from Loch Clair by Mike Smith, on Flickr
Both great shots @dibbly dobbler, really show off the colours well.
My preference is the first of the two without the reeds in the foreground, but that's purely a personal preference.
Two "Excellent" Fujigraphs Sir, both well composed with beautiful colours and some lovely reflections.
George.
Football with FujiFilm - remote camera 1 by David Young, on FlickrBoth great shots @dibbly dobbler, really show off the colours well.
My preference is the first of the two without the reeds in the foreground, but that's purely a personal preference.
Upper Podalla by Ian, on Flickr
St Ilario by Ian, on Flickr
Twisted by Ian, on FlickrLove that first one Ian...

Love that first one Ian...
A couple more from my Italy trip
1. Upper Podalla - a grab shot taken leaning precariously out of my daughter's bedroom window as the clouds rolled down the valley
Upper Podalla by Ian, on Flickr
2. St Ilario - a recon shot at a place I want to go back to over summer. No decent light so I've processed the heck out of this to give it some life, but I think this composition will give something nice when the weather is brighter
St Ilario by Ian, on Flickr
3. And a B&W version of a local tree
Twisted by Ian, on Flickr
Cornwall (6)-03206 by G.K.Jnr., on Flickr
for looking., 
A couple more from my Italy trip
1. Upper Podalla - a grab shot taken leaning precariously out of my daughter's bedroom window as the clouds rolled down the valley
Upper Podalla by Ian, on Flickr
2. St Ilario - a recon shot at a place I want to go back to over summer. No decent light so I've processed the heck out of this to give it some life, but I think this composition will give something nice when the weather is brighter
St Ilario by Ian, on Flickr
3. And a B&W version of a local tree
Twisted by Ian, on Flickr
Just a simple Landscape/Seascape tourist type Fujigraph taken at Cornwall UK.
X-T1, 18-55mm Lens, 1/250th @ F8, ISO-200, Handheld.
Cornwall (6)-03206 by G.K.Jnr., on Flickr
for looking.,
George.

Nice work George works for me![]()
It isn't a silly question at all. The square filters are convenient to use, but can be bulky to store and carry around not to mention the price.I know there's a few excellent landscape photographers on this thread so I thought I'd ask here instead of over at the landscape section.
I have recently started thinking about landscape photography having always been an admirer. I took some shots the other day using bracketing and quite liked them when they were merged and thought that the only thing really that was missing was movement in the water and possibly the clouds. I used nothing bar my xt2 and 16mm lens so I'm guessing that a polariser and or nd filter would be extremely handy for this type of photographer. Since I probably don't want to dive straight into hundreds of pounds worth of gear like Lee filters I was thinking is there a good circular version of both that you would recommend or should I just bite the bullet and get the square filter set? If so which should I buy first like hard/soft graduated filters and what should be my first strength nd filter?
I know this is probably an impossible question for you to answer and if it helps I intend to shoot mainly seascapes and lochs.
Another excellent piece of work DaveI originally processed this as mono, but decided I needed a colour version for an upcoming exhibition. Turned out quite decent, I think.
Magnetic (colour remix) by David Hallett, on Flickr
There's actually a firecrest 10stop 67mm filter in the classifieds now for £50. That's the same size as my 16mm and larger than my 56 but I keep thinking of getting a 16-55 and that wouldn't work. Decisions decisions.It isn't a silly question at all. The square filters are convenient to use, but can be bulky to store and carry around not to mention the price.
I have acquired over the last few years two screw in filters, a ten stop ND filter and a circular polariser. Both are Formatt-Hitech Firecrest and fantastic quality. I paid probably half rrp for each as one was on sale and the other bought used and have never really felt the need to buy a filter set to significantly up my landscape game so to speak, particularly as grads etc can be applied in LR so easily.
My advice? Get a polariser and ND filter (perhaps a six stopper to begin? The ten can be too long sometimes, particularly at sunrise or sunset when there's less light anyway) in the biggest thread size you need to cover your largest lens IYSWIM, then step up rings to fit this to your smaller lenses.
The step up rings are a couple of quid each and if you put a wanted in the classifieds I'll bet you'll get a decent couple of filters for a fraction of the new cost.
Happy hunting![]()
I'm in the same boat. Have a 72mm for my 10-24mm but even that wouldn't work on the 16-55mm.There's actually a firecrest 10stop 67mm filter in the classifieds now for £50. That's the same size as my 16mm and larger than my 56 but I keep thinking of getting a 16-55 and that wouldn't work. Decisions decisions.
That's what I was thinking. No point not buying something I need in case I buy another lens. It's the 10 stop that's worrying me although I tend to shoot a lot in the morning or afternoon and convert it to black and white so should have plenty of light then.I'm in the same boat. Have a 72mm for my 10-24mm but even that wouldn't work on the 16-55mm.
Way I see it, you would probably sell it on for the same as you buy it for if you did.
10 stop should be fine then. I often find in bright daylight I can still let the camera choose the shutter speed as it's rarely above 30 seconds! No calculations required [emoji4]That's what I was thinking. No point not buying something I need in case I buy another lens. It's the 10 stop that's worrying me although I tend to shoot a lot in the morning or afternoon and convert it to black and white so should have plenty of light then.
Really like this George a lovely b&w conversion.Just a simple Landscape/Seascape tourist type Fujigraph taken at Cornwall UK.
X-T1, 18-55mm Lens, 1/250th @ F8, ISO-200, Handheld.
Cornwall (6)-03206 by G.K.Jnr., on Flickr
for looking.,
George.
Works a treat David is that for Oxford Art week?I originally processed this as mono, but decided I needed a colour version for an upcoming exhibition. Turned out quite decent, I think.
Magnetic (colour remix) by David Hallett, on Flickr
Sound advice already been given, I've found 3 stp nd filter to be very useful when water is involved. I stull got all my Lee 100mm filters from my Nikon days but hardly use the grads any more and they are a pain to carry about. Been thinking about getting rid and go back to circular filters.I know there's a few excellent landscape photographers on this thread so I thought I'd ask here instead of over at the landscape section.
I have recently started thinking about landscape photography having always been an admirer. I took some shots the other day using bracketing and quite liked them when they were merged and thought that the only thing really that was missing was movement in the water and possibly the clouds. I used nothing bar my xt2 and 16mm lens so I'm guessing that a polariser and or nd filter would be extremely handy for this type of photographer. Since I probably don't want to dive straight into hundreds of pounds worth of gear like Lee filters I was thinking is there a good circular version of both that you would recommend or should I just bite the bullet and get the square filter set? If so which should I buy first like hard/soft graduated filters and what should be my first strength nd filter?
I know this is probably an impossible question for you to answer and if it helps I intend to shoot mainly seascapes and lochs.
I'm in the same boat. Have a 72mm for my 10-24mm but even that wouldn't work on the 16-55mm.
Way I see it, you would probably sell it on for the same as you buy it for if you did.
Much like a screw in and step up rings you mean? [emoji6]That's where a set of square filters come in handy... You just need the ring for your lens....
I wouldn't be without my set of Lee filters now.
Really like this George a lovely b&w conversion.