The Fabulous Fuji X owners thread

Sniffer said:
Any advice on a flash set up for off camera use? I was photographing an event for my wife last week and whilst the b&w images in Acros look good the colour versions show a loss of detail in keeping with the high ISO I was using. I've never been particularly competent at using flash with previous set ups so have avoided it with the Fuji but last week's experience suggests I might be advised to give it a go. I acknowledge that RAW would have been the way to go but for 'operational reasons' I was using the jpeg film simulations.

Looking for something at the cheaper end (I think the i40 would be absolute max). Any good / bad experiences with the Godox 350 and trigger for example? Amazon have £10 off tonight so might as well pull the trigger (no pun intended!)

Dave
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Only just logged in and trying to catch up Check out the Godox range TT350 and X1F trigger £100 0ff ebay fully compatible with Fuji also HSS wireless radio 2.4Ghz its a bargain !

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UK-Godox...295677?hash=item2cc38c09bd:g:D98AAOSw8axaS0Qa

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f_gfC8RXYe0

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YBfwRljoYv0
 
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Put my 56mm for sale incase any of you guys were after one
 
gad-westy said:
I switched from Nikon to X-T2 shortly before Christmas so I'm about a month in. My biggest concern by far before making the move was the focus tracking side of things. I have to say I'm very happy but there are some things to bare in mind. Firstly some lenses are quite slow and would not be able to keep up with certain action. The 18-55 and 35mm f/2 are fine. The 18mm I'm not sure though my assumption would be that it will be a bit slow going by performance of some other older lenses on the system. Any of the most recent lenses are lighting fast as a general rule. The 16mm 1.4 is very quick if you need something wide.

Other thing to mention is that the AF tracking is very sensitive to how it is set. This caught me off guard a bit as on my old Nikons I could use the same AF settings regardless of the subject. On the X-T2, I have a function button set to choose how AF-C responds and it makes a huge difference to keeper rate. When you're in the correct mode for your subject (which you get the hang of pretty quickly) and have a fast focussing lens, it's as good, if not better than any other camera I've used. Motorsport will be no problem. My toughest subject is my two young kids in full flight and 35mm f/2 does really well with them. Only real shortcoming I can think of with regards to AF is that it is not so good in very low light.

I didn't find the 55-200 that brilliant in terms of focus speed. I mentioned it a few pages back. Seems others are fairly happy with it but I found it a little frustrating. I'm about to aquire a 50-140 to replace it so will report back on how I get on with that.

By the way, if you're used to back button focussing, it works pretty well now that you can use the rear command dial to operate the AF. Of the three buttons on the back that could be used for that, the command wheel is by far the easiest to use. Sounds strange but works really well.
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Hi Graham, what setting do you tend to use? I have recently got an X-t20 and have been struggling massively on moving subjects. I have been using ‘C’ on the front of the camera and have obviously made the shutter speed high and turned the dial to continuous high. I have tried both single point focusing and autofocus but most of them aren’t keepers. I do only have the 18-55mm at the moment.
 
G.K.Jnr. said:
Just a simple Macro/Close Up Fujigraph taken of some Frost Crystals on the top of a fence panel.

X-T1, 55-200mm Lens Plus Raynox 202, 1/4sec @ F22, ISO-200, Handheld.
Frost (1)-03192 by G.K.Jnr., on Flickr

:ty: for looking., (y):fuji:

George.
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That’s excellent, George.
 
Matt- said:
Hi Graham, what setting do you tend to use? I have recently got an X-t20 and have been struggling massively on moving subjects. I have been using ‘C’ on the front of the camera and have obviously made the shutter speed high and turned the dial to continuous high. I have tried both single point focusing and autofocus but most of them aren’t keepers. I do only have the 18-55mm at the moment.
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What AF points are you selecting Matt, presumably you have zone and wide modes same as the other newer Fuji cameras?
Don't often use it for moving subjects, but I find C with continuous high and zone gives me the best results.
You have to follow the subject keeping the selected block of af points on target.
Not had that much luck with the wide/tracking mode, but my subjects are usually predictable in speed and path so don't need to use it
 
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tijuana taxi said:
What AF points are you selecting Matt, presumably you have zone and wide modes same as the other newer Fuji cameras?
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I have tried fully auto focus and single point.

With the single point, I may have been reducing the size of the point too small so need to try single point but make the point larger? I haven’t tried using the zone section for focus yet.

I have only had the camera a few weeks so still getting to grips with it. Thanks for the reply.
 
Matt- said:
I have tried fully auto focus and single point.

With the single point, I may have been reducing the size of the point too small so need to try single point but make the point larger? I haven’t tried using the zone section for focus yet.

I have only had the camera a few weeks so still getting to grips with it. Thanks for the reply.
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Edited my reply above, give one of the modes a go, might find it gives you better results, so much better now than their earlier efforts.
 
Matt- said:
I have tried fully auto focus and single point.

With the single point, I may have been reducing the size of the point too small so need to try single point but make the point larger? I haven’t tried using the zone section for focus yet.

I have only had the camera a few weeks so still getting to grips with it. Thanks for the reply.
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Zone focus is where it is at for X-T2/T20 and tracking moving targets, find a mode that suits what you are trying to do (or create one), the key to good zone tracking is getting initial focus lock. It takes a little time to get your head in the right space for using it (IMO), but it does work very well.
 
Thank you both above for your replies. It’s just practice I need, I’ll get there eventually.
 
Mr Perceptive said:
Zone focus is where it is at for X-T2/T20 and tracking moving targets, find a mode that suits what you are trying to do (or create one), the key to good zone tracking is getting initial focus lock. It takes a little time to get your head in the right space for using it (IMO), but it does work very well.
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I was about to wade in with a reply on this based around the different AF-C modes but does the X-T20 have those options or is that just an X-T2 thing? I know on the X-T2, the default mode 1, multi-purpose is a jack of no trades and master of none. Or at least seems to be. Mode 2 is really useful and works really well for most things I've used it for (kids running around, birds and a bit of practice on some cars). Mode 4 is useful too sometimes when you want to switch quickly between different subjects. Not sure I've found any of the other modes that useful but I haven't used it as much as I'd like yet. Hopefully that is some help, but if the X-T20 doesn't have these options, probably not!

But as others have said, use zone focus with a sensible size target selected.
 
gad-westy said:
I was about to wade in with a reply on this based around the different AF-C modes but does the X-T20 have those options or is that just an X-T2 thing? I know on the X-T2, the default mode 1, multi-purpose is a jack of no trades and master of none. Or at least seems to be. Mode 2 is really useful and works really well for most things I've used it for (kids running around, birds and a bit of practice on some cars). Mode 4 is useful too sometimes when you want to switch quickly between different subjects. Not sure I've found any of the other modes that useful but I haven't used it as much as I'd like yet. Hopefully that is some help, but if the X-T20 doesn't have these options, probably not!

But as others have said, use zone focus with a sensible size target selected.
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Yeah the X-t20 has those modes. I’ve been using it on mode two so far (Ifnore obstacles and continue to track subject)

On the x-20 mode
1 is (standard setting)
2 (see above)
3 (for accelerating and decelerating subject)
4 (for suddenly appearing subject)
5 (for erratically moving and accelerating/decelerating subject).

Is this the same at the xt2?
 
Matt- said:
Yeah the X-t20 has those modes. I’ve been using it on mode two so far (Ifnore obstacles and continue to track subject)

On the x-20 mode
1 is (standard setting)
2 (see above)
3 (for accelerating and decelerating subject)
4 (for suddenly appearing subject)
5 (for erratically moving and accelerating/decelerating subject).

Is this the same at the xt2?
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Yep, I use (2) a lot which I think ignores obstacles. This is really handy for loads of things as it just locks on very tenaciously, but you need to make sure your zone is big enough to keep your subject in. You also need to be ready to release and repress your af button quickly if you lose your subject. It should reacquire it very quickly.

The only other mode I really like is 4. Not had much success with the others. 4 is really fast to acquire a subject. I actually use it a fair it for static subjects using back button focus to quickly focus and release but I'd imagine it will be quite useful for a lot of action stuff too.

Worth mentioning that lenses play a big part here. The 18-55 is pretty good but some of the slower lenses cannot keep up with certain types of action. What subjects are you trying to capture?
 
Doh! Never seen an M42 lens before but thought this didn't look right! Looks like rear element is missing. Refund ahoy :(

IMG_0554.JPG
 
Nuzik said:
Anyone worried by the impending xt3 coming out and the xts heamoraging in value like the xt1 did?
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No haemorraging for a while, still only a rumour that it will be announced at Photokina in September, so hardly impending.
 
Ian W said:
Am I the only one who thinks the XT1 held it's value quite well then?
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Yes you are. Mirrorless cameras don't keep their value like standard DSLRs. Could be down to the quick cycle if them. The mirrorless market seems to need to have a two yearly cycle where as standard could be as long as five
 
Nuzik said:
Yes you are. Mirrorless cameras don't keep their value like standard DSLRs. Could be down to the quick cycle if them. The mirrorless market seems to need to have a two yearly cycle where as standard could be as long as five
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Well that's a sweeping statement if ever I heard one. If as you say the lifecycles are different to say, a DSLR, then you're not comparing like for like.

Do they depreciate any more or any faster than other mirrorless cameras? That's the question.

Personally, I'll likely keep my X-T2 until it's done therefore depreciation is irrelevant to me.
 
gad-westy said:
Yep, I use (2) a lot which I think ignores obstacles. This is really handy for loads of things as it just locks on very tenaciously, but you need to make sure your zone is big enough to keep your subject in. You also need to be ready to release and repress your af button quickly if you lose your subject. It should reacquire it very quickly.

The only other mode I really like is 4. Not had much success with the others. 4 is really fast to acquire a subject. I actually use it a fair it for static subjects using back button focus to quickly focus and release but I'd imagine it will be quite useful for a lot of action stuff too.

Worth mentioning that lenses play a big part here. The 18-55 is pretty good but some of the slower lenses cannot keep up with certain types of action. What subjects are you trying to capture?
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Thanks, I’ll bear that in mind. I like to take some shots of my dog running about (he’s half cocker spaniel, so he’s mad & fast moving) also maybe the odd bird or anything I see when I’m out and about walking. Obviously the focal length is a struggle with most things I’m trying to shoot there, hoping to get a longer lens in the near future.

I’m used to a canon 24-70f4 & a 70-200f4 on a 70D which was excellent for moving subjects. The still photo quality seems much better on the X-T20 though!
 
Nuzik said:
Yes you are. Mirrorless cameras don't keep their value like standard DSLRs. Could be down to the quick cycle if them. The mirrorless market seems to need to have a two yearly cycle where as standard could be as long as five
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I'd never given this much thought until now. But I only really know Nikon and Fuji. I'd guess the closest Nikon model in terms of pricing to Fuji XT1/2 is the D7xxx series? They seem to have the a very similar life cycle to Fuji XT-1/2 i.e. approx 2 years. Similar pricing when new and seemingly similar depreciation. Or am I missing something obvious?

I was thinking a bit about the higher up Nikon FX models and they seem to be about 2 year cycles too. Admittedly the D500 did come a good 7 years after the D300s mind!
 
Matt- said:
Thanks, I’ll bear that in mind. I like to take some shots of my dog running about (he’s half cocker spaniel, so he’s mad & fast moving) also maybe the odd bird or anything I see when I’m out and about walking. Obviously the focal length is a struggle with most things I’m trying to shoot there, hoping to get a longer lens in the near future.

I’m used to a canon 24-70f4 & a 70-200f4 on a 70D which was excellent for moving subjects. The still photo quality seems much better on the X-T20 though!
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Experiment a bit but I suspect AFC mode #2 would work best for a mad dog.
 
gad-westy said:
I'd never given this much thought until now. But I only really know Nikon and Fuji. I'd guess the closest Nikon model in terms of pricing to Fuji XT1/2 is the D7xxx series? They seem to have the a very similar life cycle to Fuji XT-1/2 i.e. approx 2 years. Similar pricing when new and seemingly similar depreciation. Or am I missing something obvious?

I was thinking a bit about the higher up Nikon FX models and they seem to be about 2 year cycles too. Admittedly the D500 did come a good 7 years after the D300s mind!
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D700, d750 both were and are out for a long time before being replaced and at similar levels of budget when out. Not sure the d7xxx fits as it's so much cheaper. The same with the canon 5d good life cycles on them.
 
Nuzik said:
D700, d750 both were and are out for a long time before being replaced and at similar levels of budget when out. Not sure the d7xxx fits as it's so much cheaper. The same with the canon 5d good life cycles on them.
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Can see the 5D's have a decent life cycle, 2-4 years. D700 wasn't ever replaced was it? I guess a D750 replacement is imminent. I actually picked the D7xxx range as an example because I felt it was closest in price to the X-T2 and X-T1 and of course both APSC sensors so I'd guess targeting similar markets. Like I say, hadn't really given it much thought but I cannot see drastic differences. Most manufacturers seem to replace some models quite quickly and some have a longer shelf life. X-Pro1 had a 4 year innings for example.
 
Nuzik said:
D700, d750 both were and are out for a long time before being replaced and at similar levels of budget when out. Not sure the d7xxx fits as it's so much cheaper. The same with the canon 5d good life cycles on them.
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I must admit I have always thought mirrorless loses their value quicker the DSLR but out of interest just had a look and the difference is less than I first thought.
It seems a X-T1 new price in early 2014 £1079 going for £370 now so approx 35% of orginal value
The D750 new in price in late 2014 £1799 going for £910 so 50% approx of original value but the D750 hasn't been replaced yet so you have to presume that figure will drop further slightly.
 
yamahatdm900 said:
I must admit I have always thought mirrorless loses their value quicker the DSLR but out of interest just had a look and the difference is less than I first thought.
It seems a X-T1 new price in early 2014 £1079 going for £370 now so approx 35% of orginal value
The D750 new in price in late 2014 £1799 going for £910 so 50% approx of original value but the D750 hasn't been replaced yet so you have to presume that figure will drop further slightly.
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That's a fair assumption Sir.(y)

I think some of the slightly extra depreciation is down to mirrorless in general are a much newer type of system than DSLRs, and like most newer types of technology it advances in its earlier years very quickly, hence the earlier models are superseded sooner and thus the depreciation sets in. I feel that one of the big advantages with using the Fuji system though is that they update the earlier models via new firmware etc until they are virtually at there limit, and even after newer models have been introduced. Something that for me as a businessman makes them much more cost effective.

George.
 
I am amazed how good this 55mm Takamur is! Slightly 'glowy' at 1.8 but stopped down to 2.8 it is very sharp and has some lovely colour rendition. At f8 it is probably sharper than my Fuji 35 f2. I am amazed I only paid £30 for it!

I can see me ending up with quite a few of these old lenses.
 
Craigus said:
I am amazed how good this 55mm Takamur is! Slightly 'glowy' at 1.8 but stopped down to 2.8 it is very sharp and has some lovely colour rendition. At f8 it is probably sharper than my Fuji 35 f2. I am amazed I only paid £30 for it!

I can see me ending up with quite a few of these old lenses.
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The Tak 55mm is definitely one of the best value out there. There seem to be millions, so the price is low, but if you find a good clean one, they are great lenses.
 
I realised last night that today would be the only chance of the year to capture a full moon (indeed, a supermoon) over the Bridge of Sighs here in Oxford. @yamahatdm900 of this parish, no fool he, came to the same conclusion, so we were both in the same place come 7pm :). I confidently expect his images to be better than mine, he being armed with the X-T2, the 16-55mm, more time and quite likely better technique, so I thought I'd get one in first! :D Also, I quite like the mysterious air produced by the helpful person at the window. Top tip of the day: if you can't manage clarity, shoot for mystery instead :)


The Watcher at the Window by David Hallett, on Flickr
 
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dave.hallett said:
I realised last night that today would be the only chance of the year to capture a full moon (indeed, a supermoon) over the Bridge of Sighs here in Oxford. @yamahatdm900 of this parish, no fool he, came to the same conclusion, so we were both in the same place come 7pm :). I confidently expect his images to be better than mine, he being armed with the X-T2, the 16-55mm, more time and quite likely better technique, so I thought I'd get one in first! :D Also, I quite like the mysterious air produced by the helpful person at the window. Top tip of the day: if you can't manage clarity, shoot for mystery instead :)


The Watcher at the Window by David Hallett, on Flickr
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Good one for me!
 
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