The Fabulous Fuji X owners thread

Lensflare said:
Thanks - even for someone who doesn't know how to get music ? I am hopeless with computer /mobile stuff .

Do you keep the card in the camera?

Anyone close to Uttoxeter prepared to show me how to do it please - I am not confident.
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There's step my step instructions on the fuji website.

Essentially: format card, download file from fuji, save to card, insert card to camera, turn camera on (while holding a particular button), select update file, let it do it's thing, turn off, turn on and format card. Job done.
 
One top tip is to make sure you don't have any other fuji update (.DAT) files on your computer as this leads to the filename being altered and not recognised by the camera. Doesn't sound like you will have this as a potential issue but I can't tell you how long it took me to figure what I was doing wrong! Classic case of not reading the small print.
 
Make sure your battery is fully charged before doing the update.
 
Sniffer said:
One top tip is to make sure you don't have any other fuji update (.DAT) files on your computer as this leads to the filename being altered and not recognised by the camera. Doesn't sound like you will have this as a potential issue but I can't tell you how long it took me to figure what I was doing wrong! Classic case of not reading the small print.
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Mr Bastable said:
Make sure your battery is fully charged before doing the update.
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Both good points and covered in the steps on the Fuji update process online.
 
As you turn the camera on also hold down the back/exit key, that gives access to the firmware update menu.
Its recommended to unmount the lens when updating body firmware
 
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OK, I am officially STUPID. I have just spent an hour or more, reading that Fuji page that was posted (thank you) and I am totally confused. I have read and followed the instructions on the blue link from the Fuji page here, but it only goes for XT-1 on there and I can't get it to go on my card (formatted in the camera, put in card reader attached to confuser). What am I doing wrong?
 
Gr
G.K.Jnr. said:
Just a simple Fujigraph taken of a piece of Rotting Bark that had fallen into a hedgerow.

X-T1, 18-55mm Lens, 1/105th @ F8, ISO-200, Handheld.
Rotting Bark-03176 by G.K.Jnr., on Flickr

:ty: for looking., (y):fuji:

George.
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Great textures, nicely sharpened too (if indeed you did do sharpening! )
 
Lensflare said:
OK, I am officially STUPID. I have just spent an hour or more, reading that Fuji page that was posted (thank you) and I am totally confused. I have read and followed the instructions on the blue link from the Fuji page here, but it only goes for XT-1 on there and I can't get it to go on my card (formatted in the camera, put in card reader attached to confuser). What am I doing wrong?
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This video might help
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q99o2OfCzv0
 
I'VE DONE IT...but I don't remember how! Thank you for help guys. I look forward to the increased focussing speed on the 50-140 (and TC from time to time). I might even get out today and put it to use....scissors to sharpen first for a couple of hairdressers in town.
 
Stephen L said:
Gr

Great textures, nicely sharpened too (if indeed you did do sharpening! )
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Thank you kindly Sir, your reply sure is appreciated.(y)

"Original file in RAW then converted to DNG, colour, white & black points etc, bit of clarity, 100% detail but no sharpening all in LR 4.4. Bit of unsharp mask in PS6. Then uploaded from PS as jpeg"

George.
 
G.K.Jnr. said:
Thank you kindly Sir, your reply sure is appreciated.(y)

"Original file in RAW then converted to DNG, colour, white & black points etc, bit of clarity, 100% detail but no sharpening all in LR 4.4. Bit of unsharp mask in PS6. Then uploaded from PS as jpeg"

George.
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Thanks for revealing your workflow, George. Most useful. (y)
 
G.K.Jnr. said:
Thank you kindly Sir, your reply sure is appreciated.(y)

"Original file in RAW then converted to DNG, colour, white & black points etc, bit of clarity, 100% detail but no sharpening all in LR 4.4. Bit of unsharp mask in PS6. Then uploaded from PS as jpeg"

George.
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Whats the benefit of converting to DNG?

Also Fuji users, I'm looking to upgrade to mirrorless soon. Currently torn between the X-T2/20 or one of the Sony A7Rs. What is the Fuji like at low light shooting without IBIS? Especially on holiday I do abit of night street shooting. I am a bit worried the body doesn't have IBIS and some of the lenses especially primes don't have OIS. DO you get a lot of missed shots or have to shoot super high ISO?

Thanks
Ben
 
benhben said:
Whats the benefit of converting to DNG?

Also Fuji users, I'm looking to upgrade to mirrorless soon. Currently torn between the X-T2/20 or one of the Sony A7Rs. What is the Fuji like at low light shooting without IBIS? Especially on holiday I do abit of night street shooting. I am a bit worried the body doesn't have IBIS and some of the lenses especially primes don't have OIS. DO you get a lot of missed shots or have to shoot super high ISO?

Thanks
Ben
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Only benefit of DNG conversion is to allow older versions of LR to read newer Fuji RAW files.
 
benhben said:
Whats the benefit of converting to DNG?

Also Fuji users, I'm looking to upgrade to mirrorless soon. Currently torn between the X-T2/20 or one of the Sony A7Rs. What is the Fuji like at low light shooting without IBIS? Especially on holiday I do abit of night street shooting. I am a bit worried the body doesn't have IBIS and some of the lenses especially primes don't have OIS. DO you get a lot of missed shots or have to shoot super high ISO?

Thanks
Ben
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Just something I've always done from the time I was using two makes of cameras, and liked to keep all my files the same. Plus the version of LR that I use does not support all the types of RAW Fuji-X files that I use so I convert everything first in the stand alone Adobe DNG Converter and then import them into LR. There are a few other things that are a bit different about DNG files as apposed to using the native RAW files two of which are they're slightly smaller files but that's not really important as memory is easily & cheaply obtainable these days, and the other reason the info from the camera etc, etc goes right along with the file instead of creating a separate sidecar file. Full information can be obtained on the Adobe web site.(y)

George.
 
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benhben said:
Also Fuji users, I'm looking to upgrade to mirrorless soon. Currently torn between the X-T2/20 or one of the Sony A7Rs. What is the Fuji like at low light shooting without IBIS? Especially on holiday I do abit of night street shooting. I am a bit worried the body doesn't have IBIS and some of the lenses especially primes don't have OIS. DO you get a lot of missed shots or have to shoot super high ISO?

Thanks
Ben
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Ben, IBIS has its uses, but if your street target is moving then it will result in blur in the image, which maybe your objective, but if you want a sharp image of a moving target you will have to shoot at higher ISO to shorten the shutter speed anyway.

The Fuji handlles high ISO well, as long as you have decent dynamic range in the image, not a black cat in a black hole.I'm quite happy in these sort of situations to set the upper reaches of my Auto-ISO setting at 6400, I'd rather have something sharp than blurred. On occasions ISO12800 works well. I have posted examples previously in this thread as have others. This is ACROS at night at ISO12800


160929 Window Shopping ISO 12800 by David Yeoman, on Flickr

One ace that the Fuji has up its sleeve is the ACROS film simulation, the processing of this Fuji have kept to thereselves, but they have hnadled the digital noise very well, so much so that it looks like film grain, rather than digital noise.

The later X-Trans3 sensors are much better at High ISO than previous sensors, so if night-time shooting is your bag then I'd recommend X-T2, X-T20, X100F or X-Pro2.

I've no real experience of the Sony, but being FF, the overall package is less likely to be as compact as the Fuji offerings.If you can live with a fixed focal length lens, then I would consider the X100F for street work, as its small and discrete.
 
Just had a play with X-Acquire - it works rather well and can save/restore camera settings and allows tethered shooting.

I'm running Win7 Professional, installation went fine, and when the application is run puts an isonn in the Windows System Tray,right clicking that icon allows you to set up the application

Full instructions are here http://fujifilm-x.com/us/x-stories/fujifilm-x-acquire-features-users-guide/

When thethered my camera now writes directly to the PC and to the Memory Card

Nice and best of all free!!
 
Diamonddec said:
New X camera in development? ...

http://cameratimes.org/fujifilm-x-h1-way/

So, is this the X-T2S?
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Think there was a link to similar yesterday. Interesting to see if this comes to fruition. I hope Fuji do find a means of implementing IBIS. If the current image circle is the restriction, maybe IBIS could introduce a minor crop factor to allow for it. Not a perfect implementation but it would still be a great option to have on occasion.

I know it's been mentioned before on this thread but the IBIS implementation on Olympus cameras opens up some incredible opportunities. Shooting at base ISO in the dark hand held at 1s+ is stuff of witchcraft, let alone the benefits in terms of video. Love to see Fuji do similar even if it had to be a slightly watered down version.
 
gad-westy said:
Think there was a link to similar yesterday. Interesting to see if this comes to fruition. I hope Fuji do find a means of implementing IBIS. If the current image circle is the restriction, maybe IBIS could introduce a minor crop factor to allow for it. Not a perfect implementation but it would still be a great option to have on occasion.

I know it's been mentioned before on this thread but the IBIS implementation on Olympus cameras opens up some incredible opportunities. Shooting at base ISO in the dark hand held at 1s+ is stuff of witchcraft, let alone the benefits in terms of video. Love to see Fuji do similar even if it had to be a slightly watered down version.
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With the limitations mentioned already, I'm not sure the 'upgrade' would be worth it. For a start, IBIS would not be available for use in conjunction with OIS (like Olympus do).

For it to be truly worthwhile, it would need to match the Oly offering imo.
 
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Ian W said:
With the limitations mentioned already, I'm not sure the 'upgrade' would be worth it. For a start, IBIS would not be available for use in conjunction with OIS (like Olympus do).

For it to be truly worthwhile, it would need to match the Oly offering imo.
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That would be more a matter how important Shake control is to the individual. I have age related tremor in my hands. I can not use a camera with out some sort of control.

They will probably ink in lens and in body control at a later date. May be in Firmware, There are probably patent issues to over come, more than technical ones.
 
Ian W said:
With the limitations mentioned already, I'm not sure the 'upgrade' would be worth it. For a start, IBIS would not be available for use in conjunction with OIS (like Olympus do).

For it to be truly worthwhile, it would need to match the Oly offering imo.
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I don't think it necessarily needs to match it or offer the dual IBIS. Olympus seem to be class of the field at present but as somebody who's ditching DSLR's and looking at all the mirrorless options, it's a little hard to ignore that Sony, Olympus and Panasonic are all offering IBIS now and Fuji are looking a little odd one out. Fuji seem to be doing very well without it of course but it's a very appealing tick box on the spec sheet for many people (including myself). The dual IBIS on Olly and Panasonic is great but normally only makes a stop or so of difference so I don't see it as a deal breaker.

Having any kind of half decent IBIS system would be great for all those lovely primes that Fuji make. That on its own would have me convinced. Then there are all the adapted lenses that all instantly become stabalised. A stabalised viewfinder image is very helpful for nailing manual focus too. And then the video stuff of course.

There are some cool secondary innovations happening as well like the pixel shift tech. I cannot see how that would help Fuji if the image circle is already restricted but something like the Pentax star tracker stuff would be nice, again probably with a slightly cropped image. I'd take that compromise.
 
Can anyone please disclose their workflow/settings when processing landscapes with Iridient X-transformer and LR to get the best possible results? (I.e sharp images without the watercolour/pastel/paint look)

I’ve not been happy with what I’ve got so far vs Sony A7 (I know it’s FF vs APS-C but it’s a big difference). I have tried loads of methods and levels of sharpening etc..
 
Terrywoodenpic said:
That would be more a matter how important Shake control is to the individual. I have age related tremor in my hands. I can not use a camera with out some sort of control.

They will probably ink in lens and in body control at a later date. May be in Firmware, There are probably patent issues to over come, more than technical ones.
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I can see for someone such as yourself then Terry, it may be a big plus for you and a big driver to upgrade to such a body should it be available. Curious to know if you've tried the Olympus bodies and if so, why you chose to go Fuji anyway without the IBIS?
 
gad-westy said:
I don't think it necessarily needs to match it or offer the dual IBIS. Olympus seem to be class of the field at present but as somebody who's ditching DSLR's and looking at all the mirrorless options, it's a little hard to ignore that Sony, Olympus and Panasonic are all offering IBIS now and Fuji are looking a little odd one out. Fuji seem to be doing very well without it of course but it's a very appealing tick box on the spec sheet for many people (including myself). The dual IBIS on Olly and Panasonic is great but normally only makes a stop or so of difference so I don't see it as a deal breaker.

Having any kind of half decent IBIS system would be great for all those lovely primes that Fuji make. That on its own would have me convinced. Then there are all the adapted lenses that all instantly become stabalised. A stabalised viewfinder image is very helpful for nailing manual focus too. And then the video stuff of course.

There are some cool secondary innovations happening as well like the pixel shift tech. I cannot see how that would help Fuji if the image circle is already restricted but something like the Pentax star tracker stuff would be nice, again probably with a slightly cropped image. I'd take that compromise.
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The pixel shift technology (on the Olympus) is good, but the camera needs to be very very still, 1.5 microns of movement and your image is not sharp. If Fuji do go down the IBIS route then it still could be implemented but not using the full sensor resolution, this would still generate large resolution files.

To date video doesn't seem to have been a priority with Fuji's development program, and maybe that's one of the drivers regarding IBIS implementation.

Fuji's focus has been on high IQ, and this has been reflected in both the cameras and the range of glass, which while the latter is not cheap it is very good quality. Neither of the lenses on the roadmap will be cheap, I can't see any change out of £1800 for the 8-16, and I expect the 200mm F2 will be similar, this is the first prime with OIS, which to me suggests that IBIS will not be an immediate release.

Personally I've not felt the need for IBIS with my style of shooting, though no doubt I might make use of it if it was available, but an IBIS body with X-Trans3 certainly would not have me rushing to upgrade my X-T2, it would have to offer a lot more.

But maybe the IBIS bodied camera if it appears will offer more in the video world, thus significantly differentiating its feature set from the non-IBIS stills cameras
 
gad-westy said:
I don't think it necessarily needs to match it or offer the dual IBIS. Olympus seem to be class of the field at present but as somebody who's ditching DSLR's and looking at all the mirrorless options, it's a little hard to ignore that Sony, Olympus and Panasonic are all offering IBIS now and Fuji are looking a little odd one out. Fuji seem to be doing very well without it of course but it's a very appealing tick box on the spec sheet for many people (including myself). The dual IBIS on Olly and Panasonic is great but normally only makes a stop or so of difference so I don't see it as a deal breaker.

Having any kind of half decent IBIS system would be great for all those lovely primes that Fuji make. That on its own would have me convinced. Then there are all the adapted lenses that all instantly become stabalised. A stabalised viewfinder image is very helpful for nailing manual focus too. And then the video stuff of course.

There are some cool secondary innovations happening as well like the pixel shift tech. I cannot see how that would help Fuji if the image circle is already restricted but something like the Pentax star tracker stuff would be nice, again probably with a slightly cropped image. I'd take that compromise.
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I appreciate that. My comment was more from a 'for me and my needs' perspective.

The article I read was almost more of a "FUJI IBIS won't do this" as opposed to what it will do.

I'm happy to be proven wrong or watch X-T2 prices fall as others buy up the new model :)
 
Tom Green said:
Can anyone please disclose their workflow/settings when processing landscapes with Iridient X-transformer and LR to get the best possible results? (I.e sharp images without the watercolour/pastel/paint look)

I’ve not been happy with what I’ve got so far vs Sony A7 (I know it’s FF vs APS-C but it’s a big difference). I have tried loads of methods and levels of sharpening etc..
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Tom, you seem to be going in circles here, on your left shoulder is the Fuji and on your right is the Sony!!! You will not get a perfect camera, you have to choose the one that best meets your needs and live with its compromises. Invest in one system and use it over a period of time.

With regard to processing, why not put one of your RAW files in a dropbox or similar link, I'm sure that some of us would have a go at processing it.
 
Ian W said:
I appreciate that. My comment was more from a 'for me and my needs' perspective.

The article I read was almost more of a "FUJI IBIS won't do this" as opposed to what it will do.

I'm happy to be proven wrong or watch X-T2 prices fall as others buy up the new model :)
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Yep. In all honesty, I don't need it either and the more compromised it ends up (if it happens) then the less appealing it will be.

I'm coming from a slight epiphany I had when I owned an EM5. I was shooting night cityscape stuff in Dubai with a 12mm lens and just doing it all handheld (ISO 200, f/2.8 and shutter speeds of 1-2s). There's also a photo I took with the same lens on the Metro system where I stopped the lens right down and got shutter speed down to about 1/10 and shot the skyline while the metro was moving so have loads of lovely movement on the tracks with a nice sharp skyline as a the backdrop. Now you can do this with a stabalised lens on any system (within reason) but it's great to be able to do it with any lens at all.

The EM5 was just my travel camera at the time. If I'd been doing that closer to home, I'd have been lugging a big DSLR and a tripod around with me. I'd have got slightly better results but it would have been a whole load more hassle. It all just seemed so easy with the little Olympus. So, definitely not essential but a really nice tool to have on occasion.
 
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Mr Perceptive said:
Tom, you seem to be going in circles here, on your left shoulder is the Fuji and on your right is the Sony!!! You will not get a perfect camera, you have to choose the one that best meets your needs and live with its compromises. Invest in one system and use it over a period of time.

With regard to processing, why not put one of your RAW files in a dropbox or similar link, I'm sure that some of us would have a go at processing it.
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You’re not wrong! Fuji is having one last chance as I love the system, lenses, ergonomics etc - just not the way X trans processes. If I can’t get acceptable results (for me) then I’m going to go back to Sony (which by the way, I would prefer not to do).

I agree with that, you’re 100% right. I will be doing that with whatever decision is made here. I need an acceptable solution to this issue, I’m just hoping that X-transformer can provide that solution.

I will pop a RAW file in a folder and post it, would be happy with someone to give it a go!
 
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Dave70D said:
I think if you don``t pixel peep you will be fine with the X-T2. I have seen some fantastic landscape shots taken with both the X-T2 & X-T20, both have been put through LR6 and are great :)
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I will admit, I do pixel peep and if I’m spending £1000 on a body it needs to be able to provide crisp images when processed. I see no reason I shouldn’t be able to pixel peep when spending that amount of money.

Also, what’s the point in an amazing sharp 16mm lens for example when you can’t even process sharp images out of it?
 
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Manxmaid said:
Here's one from yesterday when there was finally a little bit of blue sky to enjoy. Taken with the X-T2 and 10-24, which is a lens I like very much :)


46 Remote by Andrea Thrussell, on Flickr
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Very nice Fujigraph Ma'am, well composed with a good lead in to the main subject, nice sky, and some good colours.(y)

George.
 
So, back to this again, looking for a Lightroom replacement for Windows.

So far, luminar (v good results but no DAM or save); Affinity (basically photoshop but not quick to use for me yet)

On1, best middle ground but no LUT support and not totally gelling yet

Oh and Creative is just too expensive!

I'm guessing that's about it for viable options, but just in case I missed any I thought I'd ask.
 
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