The Fabulous Fuji X owners thread

Dave70D said:
When I totally sack LR6 now dobe has screwed me, I will have this Editing software, and it is a damn sight faster than LR6. So just testing :)



Testing ACDSee Ultimate 2018 by David Ore, on Flickr
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How do you find it towards LR? how's the layout/ease of use? I've been using LR for years, often looked at other softwares but always returned. I'm still on 5.7 so a pretty old version, but it does all I need. I never write off trying other options though
 
Cagey75 said:
How do you find it towards LR? how's the layout/ease of use? I've been using LR for years, often looked at other softwares but always returned. I'm still on 5.7 so a pretty old version, but it does all I need. I never write off trying other options though
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Hi mate, for me I just love it even though I have just downloaded the 30 Day trial. Speed wise it leaves any other editing software I have tried standing, it is damn fast and quite a few really good effects, I will use it now till the 30 days are up then I might well buy it, price wise is $148 one off or $68 per year, so it`s cheaper than dobe too :)
 
I haven't used acdsee for so long completely forgot it existed! I will be ditching adobe too, this could well be what I'm after.
I also have a spare license for affinity from work, which seems pretty powerful.
I'm not overly fussed about DAM, but batch processing sure does save some time.

Ultimately though, most of my processing is done on the ipad lately, just can't be arsed with all the copying, importing, exporting etc... Just a quick blast in snapseed usually does the trick. :Fuji:
 
Dave70D said:
Hi mate, for me I just love it even though I have just downloaded the 30 Day trial. Speed wise it leaves any other editing software I have tried standing, it is damn fast and quite a few really good effects, I will use it now till the 30 days are up then I might well buy it, price wise is $148 one off or $68 per year, so it`s cheaper than dobe too :)
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Interesting stuff. I bought the LR 6 upgrade a couple of months ago, assuming that it would be the last standalone release. It will, however, be my last Adobe purchase. Will watch what others do with interest! Capture One looks good but expensive and OnOne looks like it is developing nicely :)

Edit: Will likely still run LR6 until I'm forced to change though by a new camera etc., unless fast better results were achievable elsewhere.
 
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Cagey75 said:
I'm still on 5.7 so a pretty old version, but it does all I need. I never write off trying other options though
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That's modern by my incarnation Sir, I'm still on LR 4.4 and have never bothered with upgrading. It does everything I want to do paired with PS6.:D

George.
 
Apologies for another posting, but this is a second image of the lake, which I think is better, and I applied a graduated filter in LR to help. First time I have used this technique, so hope I didn't overdo it.

This was an 8 sec exposure @ f20. The filter seems to have pulled out some of the movement in the sky.

Lake02 by Steve Jelly, on Flickr

And I promise this will be the last one!! :) :)
 
Jelster said:
Apologies for another posting, but this is a second image of the lake, which I think is better, and I applied a graduated filter in LR to help. First time I have used this technique, so hope I didn't overdo it.

This was an 8 sec exposure @ f20. The filter seems to have pulled out some of the movement in the sky.

Lake02 by Steve Jelly, on Flickr

And I promise this will be the last one!! :) :)
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I think it's the best so far! You've maybe gone a bit too far with the grad, in that the sky probably shouldn't be as dark as the water :). In my experience, that's a very useful technique, but try boosting the shadows in the grad as well as lowering the exposure, and test whether small (and I mean small!) increases in Clarity or Dehaze can substitute for some of the exposure setting. Alternatively (or also), if you stick the RAF up on Dropbox or similar, I'd be very happy to put it through my standard PP and see how it comes out.
 
I have a couple of Canon EF lenses. Can someone recommend a cheap adapter to use the lenses on an X-T1 please?
 
Jelster said:
Apologies for another posting, but this is a second image of the lake, which I think is better, and I applied a graduated filter in LR to help. First time I have used this technique, so hope I didn't overdo it.

This was an 8 sec exposure @ f20. The filter seems to have pulled out some of the movement in the sky.

Lake02 by Steve Jelly, on Flickr

And I promise this will be the last one!! :) :)
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I think you're over-sharpening a bit maybe? Gives a weird HDR-like feel, which I never really like for landscapes.

G.K.Jnr. said:
That's modern by my incarnation Sir, I'm still on LR 4.4 and have never bothered with upgrading. It does everything I want to do paired with PS6.:D

George.
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I bought LR 4.0 originally, then later invested in 5 as for some reson it wouldn't allow me to upgrade. Differences were minimal tbh, 5.7 does everything I need .... i think the main difference is the clone tool and adjustment brushes improved a lot, and it's more compatible with more recent camera models. But it 4.4 still works for your needs, then you have no reason to upgrade :)

Diamonddec said:
I have a couple of Canon EF lenses. Can someone recommend a cheap adapter to use the lenses on an X-T1 please?
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Can't go wrong with K&F concepts: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Concept-Ad...1508687642&sr=8-1&keywords=canon+ef+to+fuji+x

But ... unless your lenses have an aperture ring you may have to use them wide open. There are adapters out there that allow aperture control, they will be pricier, but I won't suggest any as I have never used Canon lenses. I have a K&F Nikon to Fuji X adapter that allows control over aperture on Nikon 'G' lenses [non aperture ring Nikon lenses] and it works fine
 
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Diamonddec said:
I have a couple of Canon EF lenses. Can someone recommend a cheap adapter to use the lenses on an X-T1 please?
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You'll have to be a bit carefully here. If your lenses don't have an aperture ring then you'll have to get adaptors with aperture settings and that stops them being cheap. It's unlikely you'll get adaptors with contacts because the Fuji system probably won't drive the EF motors.

Have a word with the legacy leprechaun. He claims to be the expert on using non Fuji lenses. It might be more trouble than its worth.
You can pick up old film lenses quite cheap and as long as you are happy with fully manual focus they give good service. Metering probably won't be affected.

There's a theory that says sell your EF lenses, buy legacy and pocket the difference.

What lenses have you got?
 
mickledore said:
Have a word with the legacy leprechaun. He claims to be the expert on using non Fuji lenses. It might be more trouble than its worth.
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Who might that be? Not I surely, I'm 6'2" :LOL:

Nice bit of Irish bigotry though. Not the first time either.

I don't know where this grumpy ol' dude got this connection with me and legacy lenses to begin with, I've only ever used a couple. Now I feel i should live up to the connection a lot more, buy more "legacy" lenses [which I rarely refer to them as] and type 'Legacy' in all caps, bold every time I mention using them.
 
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mickledore said:
You'll have to be a bit carefully here. If your lenses don't have an aperture ring then you'll have to get adaptors with aperture settings and that stops them being cheap. It's unlikely you'll get adaptors with contacts because the Fuji system probably won't drive the EF motors.

Have a word with the legacy leprechaun. He claims to be the expert on using non Fuji lenses. It might be more trouble than its worth.
You can pick up old film lenses quite cheap and as long as you are happy with fully manual focus they give good service. Metering probably won't be affected.

There's a theory that says sell your EF lenses, buy legacy and pocket the difference.

What lenses have you got?
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Thanks to yourself and Cagey for the replies. I no longer have a Canon camera but still have a nifty fifty, 100mm macro and 70-200 f2.8 lenses. I am holding on to them in case the 7dmk3 appeals (whenever that arrives!) ... For the Fuji X-T1, I only have the 18-55 and Samyang 12mm f2.
 
Diamonddec said:
Thanks to yourself and Cagey for the replies. I no longer have a Canon camera but still have a nifty fifty, 100mm macro and 70-200 f2.8 lenses. I am holding on to them in case the 7dmk3 appeals (whenever that arrives!) ... For the Fuji X-T1, I only have the 18-55 and Samyang 12mm f2.
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Presumably you mean the Fuji 18.55. That, if coyrse, will work fine. The Samyang will be manual focus.
Think you might have problems with the other EF lenses. You will have to decide if you want to put them in store or realise their value and replace with Fuji stuff.
 
mickledore said:
Presumably you mean the Fuji 18.55. That, if coyrse, will work fine. The Samyang will be manual focus.
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Yep, no probs there.


mickledore said:
Think you might have problems with the other EF lenses. You will have to decide if you want to put them in store or realise their value and replace with Fuji stuff.
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I'd love to replace with Fuji stuff and upgrade my body to X-T2, but unfortunately I have had occasional issues with smearing of foliage in landscapes, waxy skin in portraits and I hate the worms that appear when I sharpen the files a good deal! I'm a pixel peeper and am super conscious of those artifacts, as I enter camera club competitions and don't want the judges to have any excuses to mark my images down, other than if they are technically/compositionally crap or exceedingly boring! :eek:

For travel and fun stuff though, the XT1 does the job and is preferable to lugging heavy gear about.

I was hoping to get the 6D2 as my main camera, but the upgraded specs weren't up to expectation, so I'll be skipping that and waiting to see what the 7d3 offers... and will keep the Canon lenses for that reason in the meantime.
 
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mickledore said:
You'll have to be a bit carefully here. If your lenses don't have an aperture ring then you'll have to get adaptors with aperture settings and that stops them being cheap. It's unlikely you'll get adaptors with contacts because the Fuji system probably won't drive the EF motors.

Have a word with the legacy leprechaun. He claims to be the expert on using non Fuji lenses. It might be more trouble than its worth.
You can pick up old film lenses quite cheap and as long as you are happy with fully manual focus they give good service. Metering probably won't be affected.

There's a theory that says sell your EF lenses, buy legacy and pocket the difference.

What lenses have you got?
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It's actually worse than that. For Nikon G you can get an adaptor that will set the aperture, albeit rather roughly. For EOS, if there's no aperture ring, you're stuffed. Well technically there is a way. But having to move the lens on to a Canon camera and back again every time you want to change aperture is hardly practical!
 
dave.hallett said:
. For EOS, if there's no aperture ring, you're stuffed. Well technically there is a way. But having to move the lens on to a Canon camera and back again every time you want to change aperture is hardly practical!
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Good point.(y) Considering the narrow apertures that I need for my macro shots with my 100mm, an adapter won't do my job there ... particularly as I currently haven't got a Canon body to do that aperture workaround.
 
Diamonddec said:
I have a couple of Canon EF lenses. Can someone recommend a cheap adapter to use the lenses on an X-T1 please?
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There's actually a couple of prototype autofocus EF adapters about in the wild, so hopefully not too long until they are on the market! AF and aperture control will be there obviously, not sure about IS yet.
 
dave.hallett said:
That would be grand. Well, fairly good. Still ain't gonna work with my Lens Turbo II... :)
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Ooh, there's an idea! Come on clever clogs engineering people, sort us with an autofocus lens turbo!

For Contax AF lenses!
 
UKmitch86 said:
Is that an official Fuji adapter?
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It's not an official adapter I'm afraid. AFAIK know, Fuji only make an official Leica manual focus adapter.

Looking forward to the AF adapters coming to fruition though! There's a Nikon version in the works as well.
 
Today I went out with the adapted Tokina 12-24 f/4 DX (not DXII) on the X-T10. I figured I'd take some shots I didn't care about too much and finally get to the bottom of whether I should start using this lens or sell it on. Because so far I've used it very little, partly because of a lack of subjects since Eigg, but also because I'm not sure I can rely on it. I think I'm beginning to get to grips with it though. It's even more laborious than the Samsung 12mm, because in addition to having to focus wide open then stop down, the metering changes as you stop down, so exposure comp isn't constant. You might as well use it completely in manual mode. Also the adapter sets the aperture in five or six rough steps, so you don't know exactly what aperture you are at, although you can work it out from how the shutter speeds change (kind of, but the metering changes confuse the issue). It's also quite noticeable that if you close down more than a stop or two past f/4 (I don't know exactly, see earlier point), the centre sharpness starts to suffer. I'd be interested to know what Fuji 10-24 users have to say about that. Do they get acceptable sharpness at f/11 and beyond? It looks to me as though for serious landscape work, I'd have to use f/5.6 or so, and focus stack. When it's at its best, it's probably a match for my 18-55 kit, which is acceptable in my book. But when you stop down too far, it's a bit rubbish. I've probably got better shots than this from the rainy afternoon to illustrate my points, but this was the most fun shot of the afternoon. Rainy days are short on light, but you get some nice skies... :) Still not sure whether this lens is worth the price saving/hassle ratio!


Christ Church Gothic by David Hallett, on Flickr
 
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@dave.hallett , I have no problem with sharpness of my 10-24 at any aperture, even fully stopped down where I would/should experience diffraction.

EDIT

This is a 3-shot merge with the 10-24 at f11, through 3 filters.

Wain Wath, Swaledale by Stephen Lee, on Flickr
 
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Just traded all my Canon gear in for an X-T2, 18-55 and 10-24. The Canon gear was getting a bit heavy and long in the tooth (my main body was a 5D MkII).

Haven't had a chance to try out the Fuji properly so far, but hopefully I won't notice a reduction in quality moving from full frame back to APS-C.

Certainly feels very different in the hand !
 
I changed from the same body and a few L lenses and there is no loss of image quality. I use the 56 mainly and it's stunning.
 
paulw77 said:
Just traded all my Canon gear in for an X-T2, 18-55 and 10-24. The Canon gear was getting a bit heavy and long in the tooth (my main body was a 5D MkII).

Haven't had a chance to try out the Fuji properly so far, but hopefully I won't notice a reduction in quality moving from full frame back to APS-C.

Certainly feels very different in the hand !
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I did something similar with my 6D, although I had already invested in an X-T1. That 10-24 is an excellent piece of kit...

I still have a 7D2, 300f4 and a Sigma 150-600, but it won't be hanging around much longer. I'm going to trade all of it, plus my T1 for another T2 body and another lens.
 
dave.hallett said:
I'd be interested to know what Fuji 10-24 users have to say about that. Do they get acceptable sharpness at f/11 and beyond?
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The 10-24mm is "Excellent" Sir, I've used mine both wide open and down to F11 without any sharpness problems whatsoever. It does soften up just a tad at the longer end (most zooms do) but is still extremely good and perfectly usable. In my user opinion the 18-55mm is a very good lens and should never be labelled a kit lens but optically the 10-24mm is sharper. (y)

George.
 
Just a simple candid street style Fujigraph taken on a bus of a very common sight these days of someone totally engrossed in their cell phone texting.

X-T1, 23mm F1.4 Lens, 1/40th @ F5.6, ISO-400, Handheld.
Faceless (6)-03073 by G.K.Jnr., on Flickr

:ty: for looking., (y):fuji:

George.
 
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I needed an extra battery for the X-T20. Has anyone had any issues with the Ex-Pro versions? Would they be fine as a backup battery or best to stick to the official one?

There seems to be two variants of the Ex-Pro also. Which one's do you fellow Fuji users use?
 
redlion said:
I needed an extra battery for the X-T20. Has anyone had any issues with the Ex-Pro versions? Would they be fine as a backup battery or best to stick to the official one?

There seems to be two variants of the Ex-Pro also. Which one's do you fellow Fuji users use?
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Expro whites will do you just fine [emoji106]
 
Stephen L said:
@dave.hallett , I have no problem with sharpness of my 10-24 at any aperture, even fully stopped down where I would/should experience diffraction.

EDIT

This is a 3-shot merge with the 10-24 at f11, through 3 filters.

Wain Wath, Swaledale by Stephen Lee, on Flickr
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G.K.Jnr. said:
The 10-24mm is "Excellent" Sir, I've used mine both wide open and down to F11 without any sharpness problems whatsoever. It does soften up just a tad at the longer end (most zooms do) but is still extremely good and perfectly usable. In my user opinion the 18-55mm is a very good lens and should never be labelled a kit lens but optically the 10-24mm is sharper. (y)

George.
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Thank you both, gentlemen. Stephen there's certainly some nice fine detail there, I must agree. Particularly as the HDR process doesn't always help matters.

I don't usually bother with MTF charts, but a quick check on some reviews confirms my impression that the Tokina 12-24 is best at 5.6, and that the 10-24 should be very good at least to f/11. It looks as though some loss of central sharpness might be apparent at f/16 if you compared tripod shots, but I'm quite prepared to believe that it's still good enough for most purposes. This lens probably lies in my future...Just not the very close future :-)
 
Not as amusing as the previous picture, but an example of my adapted zoom being what I would call "satisfactory", for those who find this of any interest.

Bear in mind that it's overcast, so shot at ISO 800, and quite windy to boot. Maybe a touch painterly, but that's more me than the lens. Equally, pay no attention to the slight vignette, that's my idea of trying to be artistic :-)

I did actually blend two exposures here, the centre of the image is at about f/5.6, the rest at about f/8 most likely, but you can only really see any difference at 100%.


Green Bridge of Christ Church by David Hallett, on Flickr
 
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