The Fabulous Fuji X owners thread

jj_glos said:
Do you mean it is lagging just when you are panning the camera without taking a shot, or when you are also taking a shot(s)? If it's when taking a shot you either get blackout when shooting at low fps or a freeze frame effect when shooting at high fps.
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I get it when panning without taking shots :(
 
Jase said:
I get it when panning without taking shots :(
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I wonder, I'm not sure if it's just during shooting, but I did read that electronic shutter can make a difference and seem more laggy, a long shot but worth mentioning as it popped into my head
 
GTG said:
Yes, I still don't know my way around Fuji very well.

I never researched the lenses much because I never intended to buy any others but I miss the F 2.0 and metal lens on the X100 a lot
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Don't worry, you made a great choice with the 35 F2, it is supposed to be a little cracker. And it'll be mint from Riz

macvisual said:
Hi Keith, if any good for you I could accept two separate payments over two months if that may help.......or anyone else.


Regards;
Peter
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Honestly, if I could I would, I'd love to get into a bit of wildlife shooting. But, alas, I just couldn't afford it even with that great offer. You should sell it easily with that condition though :)
 
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magicolor1 said:
Is it possible that the IS is causing this? Have you tried turning it off?
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I thought that also, I have turned it off on the lens but can't remember if I tried it afterwards... something to check tomorrow, thanks

JohnN said:
I wonder, I'm not sure if it's just during shooting, but I did read that electronic shutter can make a difference and seem more laggy, a long shot but worth mentioning as it popped into my head
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Thanks all tips welcome, I don't tend to use electronic shutter... but I will try both modes and see of there is a difference.
 
Whatever it is I hope you can replicate it, I would hate to have something like that in the back of my mind whenever I picked it up.

I think failing these last two it's a case of getting in touch with Fuji
 
Jase said:
Couple from today, don't normally do landscapes in the afternoon but wanted to try out some new filters.

manor1b.jpg


manor2.jpg
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The new filters seem to work fine - but instead of taking pictures, get my kayak fixed!!!
 
Must get some flash triggers! Trying to get this lit from the hotshoe against natural light was not fun, at the same time having to line the shot up to keep the garden fence out of view, not fun at all!

SLIDEDSXT9133.jpg

Oh and thanks for the positivity on the last pic, this thread moves on too fast to acknowledge it most of the time, but I do appreciate it :thumbs:
 
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Alan Clogwyn said:
Must get some flash triggers! Trying to get this lit from the hotshoe against natural light was not fun, at the same time having to line the shot up to keep the garden fence out of view, not fun at all!

View attachment 108789

Oh and thanks for the positivity on the last pic, this thread moves on too fast to acknowledge it most of the time, but I do appreciate it (y)
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I'm still using the cheap triggers I bought years ago to fire off cam flash, much like this set here: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Neewer-Cha...&qid=1503186467&sr=8-1&keywords=flash+trigger

Just buy them and be done you'll be glad you did
 
JL1983 said:
Likewise just got the 35 f2, amazing how small the whole setup is with it on.
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Yes that is one of the reasons I got it. To be more like an old rangefinder. I liked the X100 but it has too many flaws to put up with.
 
Alan Clogwyn said:
Must get some flash triggers! Trying to get this lit from the hotshoe against natural light was not fun, at the same time having to line the shot up to keep the garden fence out of view, not fun at all!
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Morning @Alan Clogwyn. I use (or used to use) Yongnuo triggers. A pair of RF 603 Mk2 will work in manual mode for OCF.
I have used YN 622 with a TX on the hotshoe and a received under the flash. Allows control of individual guns from the camera. I've no flashes anymore so they are doing nothing. If you want to try them out I'll pop them in the post and you can see how they suit you.
 
Alan Clogwyn said:
Must get some flash triggers! Trying to get this lit from the hotshoe against natural light was not fun, at the same time having to line the shot up to keep the garden fence out of view, not fun at all!

View attachment 108789

Oh and thanks for the positivity on the last pic, this thread moves on too fast to acknowledge it most of the time, but I do appreciate it (y)
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That's a well-detailed model, Alan.
 
I took the X-T2 and 10-24 out Urbexing for the first time properly a couple of days ago. It performed admirably (as expected), but foolishly I forgot to take it off auto-ISO after shooting a few handheld pics in the first room. However even though most shots ended up being ISO 6400, I was pleasantly surprised at how usable they are, although many are bracketed which of course helps. Even so it shows that crop sensors really have improved in the last few years.

The first two here are ISO 6400, the last is ISO 200

Forgotten 08 by Greg Basher, on Flickr

Forgotten 16 by Greg Basher, on Flickr

Forgotten 04 by Greg Basher, on Flickr
 
EspressoJunkie said:
I took the X-T2 and 10-24 out Urbexing for the first time properly a couple of days ago. It performed admirably (as expected), but foolishly I forgot to take it off auto-ISO after shooting a few handheld pics in the first room. However even though most shots ended up being ISO 6400, I was pleasantly surprised at how usable they are, although many are bracketed which of course helps. Even so it shows that crop sensors really have improved in the last few years.

The first two here are ISO 6400, the last is ISO 200

Forgotten 08 by Greg Basher, on Flickr

Forgotten 16 by Greg Basher, on Flickr

Forgotten 04 by Greg Basher, on Flickr
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Superb! Is that an old stately home?
 
I have decided I am not liking the colour profile of the RAW from the X-T1…it has a hue and white balance that is too different to the Canon that I am used to. Is the X-Pro1 or X-T2 any different?

Weirdly I think the X-Pro1 is okay….
 
Raymond Lin said:
I have decided I am not liking the colour profile of the RAW from the X-T1…it has a hue and white balance that is too different to the Canon that I am used to. Is the X-Pro1 or X-T2 any different?

Weirdly I think the X-Pro1 is okay….
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How are you importing the raw file? What profile is being applied on import? And yes, I too see a difference between the Pro1 and 2.
 
The xpro1 has a bit of a green shift, where the XT-1 veers toward magenta, I've compared them directly using the same lenses and settings. Nothing that can't be tweaked in PP if you shoot RAW.
 
Cagey75 said:
The xpro1 has a bit of a green shift, where the XT-1 veers toward magenta, I've compared them directly using the same lenses and settings. Nothing that can't be tweaked in PP if you shoot RAW.
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Agree about the Magenta with the X-T1, strangely though never noticed on the X-E2. Easy enough to correct in Lightroom, my old Canon 40D had a cold blue hue, maybe all cameras have something
 
Dave70D said:
Hi folks yesterday was the last time I would use the 70D as selling it now with the rest of my lenses :) So a question, will the battery from the X-T2 fit and work in the X-T20, as I plan on getting some spare batteries ?
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Yep they are compatible. All X series interchangeable cameras use the same batteries (although the newer WP-126S version is recommended if you shoot a lot of video).
 
I'm just pondering investing a little further into some macro kit for my X-T2, and I'm trying to weigh up the better options. My original thought was to just grab a 55-200 and combine that with the Fuji MCEX-11 and a Raynox 250 I already have and see how that went, but I'm not even sure what kind of magnification that would result in?

Or... do you think I would be better of getting something like a 100mm Canon/Nikon/Tamron/Sigma 1:1 macro lens, a mount adaptor, and some tubes and I can then throw the Raynox on when/if needed. I'm used to using manual focus for macro anyway, so to me this route does make sense...

The more I think about it, the more options there are... :thinking:
 
tijuana taxi said:
Agree about the Magenta with the X-T1, strangely though never noticed on the X-E2. Easy enough to correct in Lightroom, my old Canon 40D had a cold blue hue, maybe all cameras have something
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Yeah, all sensors bring their own unique characteristics, the Xpro1 is the first gen X-trans, the XT-1 has X-trans II, and the new breed Xt-2/pro2 have X-Trans III. I bet there's colour rendition differences between them all. I prefer the XT-1 overall, but the Xpro1 does have something about it. It seems to produce warmer tones, but I'm not too fond of of the yellow/green tinge it can put on skin ... or feathers/fur. And this is when importing the files without any specific filters or profiles
 
SealBeard said:
I'm just pondering investing a little further into some macro kit for my X-T2, and I'm trying to weigh up the better options. My original thought was to just grab a 55-200 and combine that with the Fuji MCEX-11 and a Raynox 250 I already have and see how that went, but I'm not even sure what kind of magnification that would result in?

Or... do you think I would be better of getting something like a 100mm Canon/Nikon/Tamron/Sigma 1:1 macro lens, a mount adaptor, and some tubes and I can then throw the Raynox on when/if needed. I'm used to using manual focus for macro anyway, so to me this route does make sense...

The more I think about it, the more options there are... :thinking:
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Actually never mind I forgot about the dam aperture control :banghead:
 
SealBeard said:
I'm just pondering investing a little further into some macro kit for my X-T2, and I'm trying to weigh up the better options. My original thought was to just grab a 55-200 and combine that with the Fuji MCEX-11 and a Raynox 250 I already have and see how that went, but I'm not even sure what kind of magnification that would result in?

Or... do you think I would be better of getting something like a 100mm Canon/Nikon/Tamron/Sigma 1:1 macro lens, a mount adaptor, and some tubes and I can then throw the Raynox on when/if needed. I'm used to using manual focus for macro anyway, so to me this route does make sense...

The more I think about it, the more options there are... :thinking:
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I'm looking to boost my macro et up too, atm I just use an old Helios lens and a couple of macro rings but it' nowhere near 1:1. I can use the 35mm 1.4 too, with better magnification but it gives me little to no working distance. I've been pondering on this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B010R8MGA6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A11IVQIXE3DERI&psc=1

I already have a Nikon adapter.

Use lenses with aperture rings
 
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Cagey75 said:
I'm looking to boost my macro et up too, atm I just use an old Helios lens and a couple of macro rings but it' nowhere near 1:1. I can use the 35mm 1.4 too, with better magnification but it gives me little to no working distance. I've been pondering on this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B010R8MGA6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A11IVQIXE3DERI&psc=1

I already have a Nikon adapter.

Use lenses with aperture rings
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Ah yea, I had seen those on Ebay while I was browsing, but they looked too good to be true haha. I'm also using the 35mm at the moment, but like you say, may as well be headbutting your subject :D
 
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