The Fabulous Fuji X owners thread

psybear said:
Many thanks folks for the very kind comments. I'll be posting up a mono version with a very similar composition for comparison.

On the down side, now that I am starting to use my X-T2 for LE photography, it has serious issues with hot pixels!

View attachment 108409
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This is interesting, as I've recently experienced this, but not originally, now my X-T2 has had a replacement sensor (it's a long story, and possibly my fault, but maybe not, but the good news is that those nice people at Fuji replaced it FOC, even if it took them 2 go's!!!) The original sensor was brilliant at LE, but this 'new' sensor often displays noise in the LE images. The noise is reduced if the image is correctly exposed, but if a couple of stops too dark, it is very evident. My noise is similar to the white noise in your image, I've not had any red dots, but I would be interested to see what the RAW histogram looked like for that image.

I also don't think that they are hot pixels, hot pixels would usually be peak white (fully saturated) but more like some type of noise.

For Info my first sensor was a pre-order camera and bought on release date, the sensor was replaced a couple of months ago.

I've also got an X100F, but this is a recent purchase and I've not had a chance to try LE yet, but obviously it is the same sensor.
 
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G.K.Jnr. said:
I'm a guessin' this camera must be faulty though, because as you can see there is not a scrap of the so called painterly/worminess in the picture. :whistle::D
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Yeah, take it back, if there's no issues, then there's an issue :p

Nice shot too!
 
G.K.Jnr. said:
Just a simple shot taken at Folkestone Kent UK of the Outer Harbour area and the Old Fish Market.

This combination of Camera & Lens never ceases to amaze me with the detail it can produce. I kid you not that on the original file you can read the licence plates on the vehicles parked in the distance. I'm a guessin' this camera must be faulty though, because as you can see there is not a scrap of the so called painterly/worminess in the picture. :whistle::D

X-T2, 35mm F1.4 Lens, 1/1100th @ F5.6, ISO-200, Handheld.
Outer Harbour (Folkestone) (3)-03147 by G.K.Jnr., on Flickr

:ty: for looking., (y):fuji:

George.
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Lovely colourful shot George crystal clear and pin sharp, that looks a great lens :)
 
Dave70D said:
Lovely colourful shot George crystal clear and pin sharp, that looks a great lens :)
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Thank you kindly Sir, I really do appreciate you taking the time to reply & comment.(y)

"Fuji in my opinion don't make any bad lenses, just some of them are a tad more special. I'm quite happy using anything they produce"

George.
 
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Jelster said:
Yeah, take it back, if there's no issues, then there's an issue :p

Nice shot too!
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Thank you kindly Sir, I much appreciate you taking the time to reply.(y)

George.
 
Mr Perceptive said:
This is interesting, as I've recently experienced this, but not originally, now my X-T2 has had a replacement sensor (it's a long story, and possibly my fault, but maybe not, but the good news is that those nice people at Fuji replaced it FOC, even if it took them 2 go's!!!) The original sensor was brilliant at LE, but this 'new' sensor often displays noise in the LE images. The noise is reduced if the image is correctly exposed, but if a couple of stops too dark, it is very evident. My noise is similar to the white noise in your image, I've not had any red dots, but I would be interested to see what the RAW histogram looked like for that image.

I also don't think that they are hot pixels, hot pixels would usually be peak white (fully saturated) but more like some type of noise.

For Info my first sensor was a pre-order camera and bought on release date, the sensor was replaced a couple of months ago.

I've also got an X100F, but this is a recent purchase and I've not had a chance to try LE yet, but obviously it is the same sensor.
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Now you have got my interest David!

The image was under-exposed as you can see from the histogram, and the area most underexposed (bottom right) was where the white dots were most evident and the only place where the red stuff showed up.

Can I ask why you had your sensor replaced and how you went about it? I'm wondering if I should raise this whilst the camera is still under warranty.

Reading some stuff on dpreview forums and sensor overheating does appear to be a real issue for the X-T2 - particularly when doing several long exposures. Using the in-camera NR feature apparently works but when I'm doing 5 minute exposures the last thing I want to wait another 5 minutes before I can take a another shot! Other tips include flipping out the screen to reduce the heat it produces!

Screen Shot 2017-08-14 at 23.06.51.png
 
psybear said:
Now you have got my interest David!

The image was under-exposed as you can see from the histogram, and the area most underexposed (bottom right) was where the white dots were most evident and the only place where the red stuff showed up.

Can I ask why you had your sensor replaced and how you went about it? I'm wondering if I should raise this whilst the camera is still under warranty.

Reading some stuff on dpreview forums and sensor overheating does appear to be a real issue for the X-T2 - particularly when doing several long exposures. Using the in-camera NR feature apparently works but when I'm doing 5 minute exposures the last thing I want to wait another 5 minutes before I can take a another shot! Other tips include flipping out the screen to reduce the heat it produces!

View attachment 108437
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If anything the built in nr will make it worse... Effectively all it does is take another exposure with the curtain closed, and then subtract any signal from the first frame... This will just build up more heat.

You're better to just do one dark frame manually after the first exposure, then subtract that in post from all subsequent shots, leavong the 5 mins between them to actually let the sensor cool down...
 
jimmyjamjojo said:
If anything the built in nr will make it worse... Effectively all it does is take another exposure with the curtain closed, and then subtract any signal from the first frame... This will just build up more heat.

You're better to just do one dark frame manually after the first exposure, then subtract that in post from all subsequent shots, leavong the 5 mins between them to actually let the sensor cool down...
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But surely this manual effort only works if all the subsequent images are taken with exactly the same settings? I tend to experiment quite a bit with my LR stuff, adjusting composition, ISO, aperture and shutter regularly. So I'd end up taking several dark frames, keeping the sensor hot. I think I'd be better using the inbuilt NR...
 
psybear said:
But surely this manual effort only works if all the subsequent images are taken with exactly the same settings? I tend to experiment quite a bit with my LR stuff, adjusting composition, ISO, aperture and shutter regularly. So I'd end up taking several dark frames, keeping the sensor hot. I think I'd be better using the inbuilt NR...
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This is true... I incorrectly assumed you would use the same iso and exposure time. You know what they say about assumption...

Some astro friends keep "dark libraries" - dark frames categorised by iso, exposure length, and rough ambient temps... Depends how much you want to do though really...
 
psybear said:
Now you have got my interest David!

The image was under-exposed as you can see from the histogram, and the area most underexposed (bottom right) was where the white dots were most evident and the only place where the red stuff showed up.

Can I ask why you had your sensor replaced and how you went about it? I'm wondering if I should raise this whilst the camera is still under warranty.

Reading some stuff on dpreview forums and sensor overheating does appear to be a real issue for the X-T2 - particularly when doing several long exposures. Using the in-camera NR feature apparently works but when I'm doing 5 minute exposures the last thing I want to wait another 5 minutes before I can take a another shot! Other tips include flipping out the screen to reduce the heat it produces!

View attachment 108437
Click to expand...

Brian

My camera took a tumble onto a hard surface, lens hood took the brunt of the impact, lens and camera seemed fine, and worked fine for the next few weeks, then I got what I thought was a dust mark on the sensor, so I cleaned the sensor (now I work in industrial imaging and I've cleaned hundreds of sensors, so am experienced at doing this), but the mark wouldn't clean. Further inspection showed that the protective glass over the sensor had a very small crack on the rear face (the front face that I cleaned was perfectly smooth). So I sent it back to Fuji as a warranty repair with a note saying what had happened, and that if they believed it was my fault then I would stump up for the fixed price repair (which incidentally for an X-T2 is £150+VAT, a bit of a bargain!)

Anyway they replaced the sensor FOC and returned the camera, unfortunately this had more faults in that I got a lot of noise in the EVF and the resultant image on all shots. I sent the camera back with sample images, and it came back 4 days later with a new mainboard and sensor assembly. Its then worked as per the original X-T2 except I have seen the white noise on a long exposure shot - which had a very similar histogram (and was 480secs) to your shot.

I had done quite a lot of LE work during last winter with my original 4 to 10 min stuff and not noticed this noise, but virtually all the histograms go right up to the RH edge (ETTR). Personally I want to try some experimentation with getting a better histogram before I blame the new sensor as being worse, I keep meaning to do it but haven't had a spare few hours!!! I also want to compare with the X100F - sounds like a trip out with multiple cameras and tripods (and a large flask of coffee) - I'm not going to be able to do this until mid-September at the earliest, but I will report back when it's done.
 
Mr Perceptive said:
Brian

My camera took a tumble onto a hard surface, lens hood took the brunt of the impact, lens and camera seemed fine, and worked fine for the next few weeks, then I got what I thought was a dust mark on the sensor, so I cleaned the sensor (now I work in industrial imaging and I've cleaned hundreds of sensors, so am experienced at doing this), but the mark wouldn't clean. Further inspection showed that the protective glass over the sensor had a very small crack on the rear face (the front face that I cleaned was perfectly smooth). So I sent it back to Fuji as a warranty repair with a note saying what had happened, and that if they believed it was my fault then I would stump up for the fixed price repair (which incidentally for an X-T2 is £150+VAT, a bit of a bargain!)

Anyway they replaced the sensor FOC and returned the camera, unfortunately this had more faults in that I got a lot of noise in the EVF and the resultant image on all shots. I sent the camera back with sample images, and it came back 4 days later with a new mainboard and sensor assembly. Its then worked as per the original X-T2 except I have seen the white noise on a long exposure shot - which had a very similar histogram (and was 480secs) to your shot.

I had done quite a lot of LE work during last winter with my original 4 to 10 min stuff and not noticed this noise, but virtually all the histograms go right up to the RH edge (ETTR). Personally I want to try some experimentation with getting a better histogram before I blame the new sensor as being worse, I keep meaning to do it but haven't had a spare few hours!!! I also want to compare with the X100F - sounds like a trip out with multiple cameras and tripods (and a large flask of coffee) - I'm not going to be able to do this until mid-September at the earliest, but I will report back when it's done.
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Even more interesting David. Thanks for taking the time to post that.

My EXIF data for this image actually indicates a 480 sec exposure too. But it was my final image of the day and my wired remote had stopped cooperating. My previous image at 4 mins had been really underexposed and I decided to add another 60 secs. With no way of using the bulb setting I set the timer to 8 minutes and cut it short by three. I thought it was interesting that this fooled the EXIF.

Oddly enough I was out the previous weekend in very similar bright sunny conditions taking the same sort of images. A 300 second exposure at the end of a LE session had no such issues (I've just gone back to it in LR and zoomed in in case I'd missed anything - an acceptable level of noise and just one or two red pixels). The histogram on his one has a much better balance.

I think I'll experiment some more myself on this issue. Plenty of warranty time left if I do decide to refer it to Fuji.
 
psybear said:
Even more interesting David. Thanks for taking the time to post that.

My EXIF data for this image actually indicates a 480 sec exposure too. But it was my final image of the day and my wired remote had stopped cooperating. My previous image at 4 mins had been really underexposed and I decided to add another 60 secs. With no way of using the bulb setting I set the timer to 8 minutes and cut it short by three. I thought it was interesting that this fooled the EXIF.

Oddly enough I was out the previous weekend in very similar bright sunny conditions taking the same sort of images. A 300 second exposure at the end of a LE session had no such issues (I've just gone back to it in LR and zoomed in in case I'd missed anything - an acceptable level of noise and just one or two red pixels). The histogram on his one has a much better balance.

I think I'll experiment some more myself on this issue. Plenty of warranty time left if I do decide to refer it to Fuji.
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My gut feeling is that the X-T2 is very sensitive to the correct exposure on LE work, get the exposure right and the image will be good - to me some of the noise is similar to the noise in dark areas on high ISO images (also under-exposed), High ISO works brilliantly when you have a real dynamic scene in front of you, but less so if the scene is naturally dark - leading to underexposure

A useful trick is to take a reference image without filters, and then match the histogram with the filtered image, then not only do you know that you got the same light levels, but you have an image for colour reference!
 
Mr Perceptive said:
My gut feeling is that the X-T2 is very sensitive to the correct exposure on LE work, get the exposure right and the image will be good - to me some of the noise is similar to the noise in dark areas on high ISO images (also under-exposed), High ISO works brilliantly when you have a real dynamic scene in front of you, but less so if the scene is naturally dark - leading to underexposure

A useful trick is to take a reference image without filters, and then match the histogram with the filtered image, then not only do you know that you got the same light levels, but you have an image for colour reference!
Click to expand...

Yeah always useful to have this sort of backup. I took three bracketed frames of the same scene with no filters just before this and used one to repair the worst affected areas of this image.
 
Mr Perceptive said:
Brian

My camera took a tumble onto a hard surface, lens hood took the brunt of the impact, lens and camera seemed fine, and worked fine for the next few weeks, then I got what I thought was a dust mark on the sensor, so I cleaned the sensor (now I work in industrial imaging and I've cleaned hundreds of sensors, so am experienced at doing this), but the mark wouldn't clean. Further inspection showed that the protective glass over the sensor had a very small crack on the rear face (the front face that I cleaned was perfectly smooth). So I sent it back to Fuji as a warranty repair with a note saying what had happened, and that if they believed it was my fault then I would stump up for the fixed price repair (which incidentally for an X-T2 is £150+VAT, a bit of a bargain!)

Anyway they replaced the sensor FOC and returned the camera, unfortunately this had more faults in that I got a lot of noise in the EVF and the resultant image on all shots. I sent the camera back with sample images, and it came back 4 days later with a new mainboard and sensor assembly. Its then worked as per the original X-T2 except I have seen the white noise on a long exposure shot - which had a very similar histogram (and was 480secs) to your shot.

I had done quite a lot of LE work during last winter with my original 4 to 10 min stuff and not noticed this noise, but virtually all the histograms go right up to the RH edge (ETTR). Personally I want to try some experimentation with getting a better histogram before I blame the new sensor as being worse, I keep meaning to do it but haven't had a spare few hours!!! I also want to compare with the X100F - sounds like a trip out with multiple cameras and tripods (and a large flask of coffee) - I'm not going to be able to do this until mid-September at the earliest, but I will report back when it's done.
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Those Manfrotto Arca clamps have a lot to answer for, presumably that was the fall you were referring to otherwise you are just clumsy :)

Thought you had got away with it, good service from Fuji though, nice to know
 
G.K.Jnr. said:
Just a simple shot taken at Folkestone Kent UK of the Outer Harbour area and the Old Fish Market.

This combination of Camera & Lens never ceases to amaze me with the detail it can produce. I kid you not that on the original file you can read the licence plates on the vehicles parked in the distance. I'm a guessin' this camera must be faulty though, because as you can see there is not a scrap of the so called painterly/worminess in the picture. :whistle::D

X-T2, 35mm F1.4 Lens, 1/1100th @ F5.6, ISO-200, Handheld.
Outer Harbour (Folkestone) (3)-03147 by G.K.Jnr., on Flickr

:ty: for looking., (y):fuji:

George.
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Very nice photo George, detail is excellent and so much going on makes you keep looking

When they were just built we thought about buying one of the flats at the very end, far right, first floor with a view were 63k
 
psybear said:
Slightly different composition - it includes a distant Tory Island on the horizon - and in mono.

Interested to hear opinions as to whether colour or mono works best. The LE noise issue is I think more apparent in the mono version, and that's even with fairly aggressive NR applied to the water and sky.


View attachment 108411
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I prefer this version to the colour, but not because I prefer throne treatment, more because I prefer the composition. In the first I kind of feel it would look better with out that piece of cliff in the foreground to make it more of a letterbox crop (I found the foreground distracting). In this one the gap between the foreground element and the cliffs to the right lead the eye into the picture.
 
tijuana taxi said:
Very nice photo George, detail is excellent and so much going on makes you keep looking

When they were just built we thought about buying one of the flats at the very end, far right, first floor with a view were 63k
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Thank you kindly Sir, I much appreciate you taking the time to reply & comment.(y)

"I've never seen the inside of any of those flats but they certainly look pleasant from the outside"

George.
 
@psybear - The noise is definitely exposure related. Below are two images both taken with a Hitech Firecrest 10 stopper, they have been imported as RAWs into LR - there is quite a bit of dust on the components being imaged!!

XF23mm F1.4 F8, LE Noise Reduction - Off

The LH image was a 4 minute exposure and then has had an exposure adjustment in LR +1.75 stops

The RH image was a 15 min exposure, no adjustment in LR



Zooming in you can see the noise difference, especially on the blue body of the industrial camera








I've uploaded the original images to Flickr LE002 by David Yeoman, on Flickr

The moral is, get it right in camera!!!!

(and the good news is that there is nothing wrong with my X-T2!!)
 
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Just a simple Macro shot of an Ant with with its lunch to be.

X-T1, 105mm Micro Nikkor (D) Lens plus Ext Tubes, 1/180th @ F11, ISO-200, Modified Ring Flash, Handheld.
Ant And Lunch (1)-02556 by G.K.Jnr., on Flickr

:ty: for looking., (y):fuji:

George.
 
G.K.Jnr. said:
Just a simple Macro shot of an Ant with with its lunch to be.

X-T1, 105mm Micro Nikkor (D) Lens plus Ext Tubes, 1/180th @ F11, ISO-200, Modified Ring Flash, Handheld.
Ant And Lunch (1)-02556 by G.K.Jnr., on Flickr

:ty: for looking., (y):fuji:

George.
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Amazing detail. Would love to see the actual set up you use for this sort of image.
 
G.K.Jnr. said:
Just a simple Macro shot of an Ant with with its lunch to be.

X-T1, 105mm Micro Nikkor (D) Lens plus Ext Tubes, 1/180th @ F11, ISO-200, Modified Ring Flash, Handheld.
Ant And Lunch (1)-02556 by G.K.Jnr., on Flickr

:ty: for looking., (y):fuji:

George.
Click to expand...

Wowzers! :jawdrop: very nice indeed

I did a few macro shots this eve, but I think i'll wait till this images is a few pages back before posting them :D
 
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G.K.Jnr. said:
Just a simple Macro shot of an Ant with with its lunch to be.

X-T1, 105mm Micro Nikkor (D) Lens plus Ext Tubes, 1/180th @ F11, ISO-200, Modified Ring Flash, Handheld.
Ant And Lunch (1)-02556 by G.K.Jnr., on Flickr

:ty: for looking., (y):fuji:

George.
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This is great. Good dof for f11 with tubes.
 
G.K.Jnr. said:
Just a simple Macro shot of an Ant with with its lunch to be.

X-T1, 105mm Micro Nikkor (D) Lens plus Ext Tubes, 1/180th @ F11, ISO-200, Modified Ring Flash, Handheld.
Ant And Lunch (1)-02556 by G.K.Jnr., on Flickr

:ty: for looking., (y):fuji:

George.
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Speechless George --- Excellent photography Sir.

Regards;
Peter
 
Can anyone help please - on my X-T10 menu, there is an 'IS' setting but it isn't highlighted to set, just shows off and dull. Have I missed something or is it not an active setting?
On my X-E2S (yes I know, another body) it is highlighted and can be set with 4 options.
Is it something I'm not doing or is this how the T10 is?
Any clarification would be welcomed.
 
wardy07 said:
Can anyone help please - on my X-T10 menu, there is an 'IS' setting but it isn't highlighted to set, just shows off and dull. Have I missed something or is it not an active setting?
On my X-E2S (yes I know, another body) it is highlighted and can be set with 4 options.
Is it something I'm not doing or is this how the T10 is?
Any clarification would be welcomed.
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This setting only works with OIS lenses that don't have a switch for the OIS on the lens, like the 50-230
 
Cagey75 said:
Wowzers! :jawdrop: very nice indeed

I did a few macro shots this eve, but I think i'll wait till this images is a few pages back before posting them :D
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Haha, I know what you mean, it's amazing isn't it. I'm sure you've got good ones as well though.
I'm just going to creep away and maybe some time :exit:
 
Cagey75 said:
This setting only works with OIS lenses that don't have a switch for the OIS on the lens, like the 50-230
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Ah ok, I've got a 18-55 f2.8-4 on the X-E2S and it's active so is this the reason?
 
wardy07 said:
Ah ok, I've got a 18-55 f2.8-4 on the X-E2S and it's active so is this the reason?
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The lens OIS switch will over ride it either way. Sounds more like a weirdness with the XE2 than with the XT10 as that option should only light up for OIS lenses without the switch. I have never used an XE body though, someone who's used both might shed more light :)
 
Cagey75 said:
The lens OIS switch will over ride it either way. Sounds more like a weirdness with the XE2 than with the XT10 as that option should only light up for OIS lenses without the switch. I have never used an XE body though, someone who's used both might shed more light :)
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Thank you for your help Keith, it certainly would explain the T10 issue anyway. I'd been searching everywhere for the answer, should have asked here first.
 
G.K.Jnr. said:
Just a simple Macro shot of an Ant with with its lunch to be.

X-T1, 105mm Micro Nikkor (D) Lens plus Ext Tubes, 1/180th @ F11, ISO-200, Modified Ring Flash, Handheld.
Ant And Lunch (1)-02556 by G.K.Jnr., on Flickr

:ty: for looking., (y):fuji:

George.
Click to expand...

Now that shot is WOW George, very well taken.
 
wardy07 said:
Absolutely fantastic close up George, the detail is amazing!
Click to expand...


Thank you kindly Sir, I really appreciate you taking the time to reply & comment.(y)

George.
 
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jimmyjamjojo said:
Great shot! Is it a single shot or a stack?
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Thank you kindly Sir, I much appreciate you taking the time to reply & comment.(y)

" The shot is a 100% straight single exposure, no stacking or any special PP work apart from just cloning out spots etc and making sure the colour is accurate"

George.
 
Very nice close up work George. Was you using a set of tubes?
 
psybear said:
Amazing detail. Would love to see the actual set up you use for this sort of image.
Click to expand...


Thank you kindly Sir, I much appreciate you taking the time to reply & comment.(y)

"If you take a look at Page 12 of show us your macro rig, postings 457 & 458 it'll show you the set ups that I still use. 457 shows the set up without the tubes mounted on my old D800. This shot was taken using the same set up on my X-T1 but with a full set of tubes added plus mounted via an adapter, it also describes exactly how I modified the ring flash"

"458 shows a different set up that I sometimes use with my 55-200mm Fuji Lens with a Raynox Close Up Lens mounted and a Nissin i40 flash"

George.
 
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