The Fabulous Fuji X owners thread

Jase said:
I ordred a Sunwayfoto L Bracket yesterday so I'll see how that goes think it was around the £40-50 range.

I usually buy Kirk but I bought a Sunwayfoto as a backup for my D810 on a trip and was surprised how good it was.

I'll let you know when it arrives and I've tried it.
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The SunwayFoto will be very good. They were just a bit slow off the mark and as myself and the tog whom is joined to my hip had Arca tripod setups we had to jump quickly. Have you got a link to yours? It might be worth a looksee.
 
badboy1984 said:
1) I use XT1 and I can use back button to focus. I added the medium hand grip to make it comfortable to use.
2) I use LR CC too and I don't see any difference in terms of handling RAW files ......... the processing will be different then the Nikon RAW.
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What is this 'back button focus' please?

I have just unboxed my XT2 and am trying to read the manual, but even with my glasses on it is very small print....I didn't realise how bad my eyes had become for close work, it is only close lie this I struggle.

I have always just used the shutter button to do start up - why is there a benefit for 'back button focus'? Aren't you having to use two buttons to do the same job?

I have to say, the build quality of the Fuji is streaks ahead of even the Nikon D4s - the lenses especially so, reassuringly heavy, solid and beautifully smooth. So far I am very impressed. I shall get out and use it tomorrow I hope.
 
Lensflare said:
What is this 'back button focus' please?

I have just unboxed my XT2 and am trying to read the manual, but even with my glasses on it is very small print....I didn't realise how bad my eyes had become for close work, it is only close lie this I struggle.

I have always just used the shutter button to do start up - why is there a benefit for 'back button focus'? Aren't you having to use two buttons to do the same job?

I have to say, the build quality of the Fuji is streaks ahead of even the Nikon D4s - the lenses especially so, reassuringly heavy, solid and beautifully smooth. So far I am very impressed. I shall get out and use it tomorrow I hope.
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You can assign one of the button at the back i.e AE-L or AF-L as focus button. This means when press or hold to focus then press the shutter button to take the photo. Some prefer to use this method to lock focus without pressing the shutter by accident. I used to use it on my D3 and D700 but with my Fuji, I'm not too bother anymore.
 
It is also very useful when the camera is in MF, as it will actually autofocus a Fuji lens (as long as the lens is in AF mode, ie the collar not pulled back on 14/16/23). This is great for either swapping between the two quickly, or for setting the camera up for long exposure work.
 
Mike.P said:
I have always liked the Fuji output and find myself looking hard at the XT2. Can anyone tell me how the camera would perform AF/Tracking wise with the 100-400mm and 1.4x attached?
Are we talking Canon/Nikon speed or quite sluggish like my Pentax gear?
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Hi Mike,

it will be somewhere in between. It's definitely faster than any Pentax I've used, but I've not much experience with Nikon or Canon to be able to confirm the speed relative to them.

The other thing you'll appreciate is that Fuji seem to have a similar approach to their cameras as Pentax - it's clear they are designed by people who are photographers themselves. I found the transition very enjoyable!
 
Lensflare said:
I have to say, the build quality of the Fuji is streaks ahead of even the Nikon D4s - the lenses especially so, reassuringly heavy, solid and beautifully smooth.
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I couldn't agree with you more Sir. "ENJOY" (y)

"We changed from D4s & D810 units towards the later part of last year and have never looked back".

George.
 
badboy1984 said:
1) I use XT1 and I can use back button to focus. I added the medium hand grip to make it comfortable to use.
2) I use LR CC too and I don't see any difference in terms of handling RAW files ......... the processing will be different then the Nikon RAW.
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Cheers. I presume BBF works like Nikons? So shutter release completely un-coupled from focusing. AF-C mode works for anything. AF-on button to focus, let go to lock. Shutter can fire at any time?
 
Mr Perceptive said:
Yes, @mickledore and I both use the Fittest bracket from eBay, the only issue is that the USB remote release won't fit in when in vertical mode, but @mickledore has modded his bracket or you can use and old style cable release. That said the latest firmware allows up to 15 mins on the timer
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Cheers. Think I can see the issue with cable access.

Does the internal timer allow for intervalolumeter? Over several hours? That would probably negate the need for a remote cable for me if it did.
 
mickledore said:
Hopefully this will be easier to read.


Yes, but you lose the ability to use a remote release.


Yes. Works well, unless you are a pixel peeper; they find innumerable faults with the processing. Mere mortals can see no wrong. Check out either mine or @Mr Perceptive flickr pages.


Can't see any real problems. If you are doing star trails, for an hour or two, it's probably better to use continuous shooting mode at 30 seconds per shot rather than the intervalometer setting which does have a very minute, but possibly visible (See comments about pixel peeping!) time lag between shots.


Yes as @Mr Perceptive mentions we both use the "bog standard" cheapo e-bay bracket. It does have the problem that remote releases doesn't fit too well in the confined space. Kirk, RRS and another compoany whose name I can't remember have brought out plates that all have various sliding bits to allow a remote release to be fitted. This is only a problem when using the camera in portrait mode. Even then the official Fuji remote won't fit because it has a big ballast resistor near to the connector. I sometimes use an old Canon release.
Fuji appear to recognise that the problem exists and have put a threaded hole in the shutter button. This allows you to use an old film style remote release, that costs only a few pounds. I mainly use one of these and it works perfectly:-
https://www.jackthehat.co.uk/20quot-50cm-professional-vinyl-cable-release-cameras-p-27.html

There are many on here who have made a similar journey. Few regret it. Pity you are so far away or you could have had a play with some gear...unless you can get to the Liverpool meet!!!
https://www.talkphotography.co.uk/threads/scouse-meet-for-brummies-saturday-19-august.659291/
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Brilliant info, thanks. Any chance of expanding on point 1? Can't see the connection but I may be being thick.
 
gad-westy said:
Cheers. Think I can see the issue with cable access.

Does the internal timer allow for intervalolumeter? Over several hours? That would probably negate the need for a remote cable for me if it did.
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As I mentioned^^^^yes it does. But some pixel peepers say they can see the joins. It's never been a problem for me. I'll try and drag a shot or two out in an hour or so.
 
gad-westy said:
Brilliant info, thanks. Any chance of expanding on point 1? Can't see the connection but I may be being thick.
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As you said in your post #32694 the focusing is uncoupled from the shutter function. So however you attach a remote - either in the jack plug or via the screw thread - you cannot auto focus with this. Once you set up BBF then you always have to use that particular button for auto focus.
Can be a right PIA!!!
 
Lensflare said:
What is this 'back button focus' please?

I have just unboxed my XT2 and am trying to read the manual, but even with my glasses on it is very small print....I didn't realise how bad my eyes had become for close work, it is only close lie this I struggle.

I have always just used the shutter button to do start up - why is there a benefit for 'back button focus'? Aren't you having to use two buttons to do the same job?
Click to expand...


I don't know if Fuji's work exactly the same as Nikon, just trying to establish that but on a Nikon the benefit I think is that you effectively get three focusing modes in 1:

You set the AF-on button to focus. The shutter button no longer does any focusing and the shutter will fire as soon as it's pressed. You set the camera to AF-C mode and leave it there regardless of what you're shooting. You can then shoot in the following ways without changing anything:

1) manual focus. Camera won't try to focus when you press shutter button so you have fully manual control whenever you like.
2) focus recompose. Focus on your subject then let go of AF-on button. re-compose then fire. Or in fact re-compose and wait for the right moment to fire, no matter how long.
3) Track moving subjects. Just hold down the AF-on button, track your subject and fire shots off whenever you like.

For me it's now almost essential.
 
The more I see and read about the Fuji systems the more I get tempted to sell my DSLR kit and defect here.
Unfortunately I won't be able to hit the high level bodies and lenses just yet as funds will be limited so any advice would be most welcome regarding a general set up for around £1K budget.

I've always had a strong interest in wildlife but appreciate that's probably a step too far budget wise but suggestions welcome as I'd be willing to compromise for now and maybe add a 100-400 at a later date.
 
wardy07 said:
The more I see and read about the Fuji systems the more I get tempted to sell my DSLR kit and defect here.
Unfortunately I won't be able to hit the high level bodies and lenses just yet as funds will be limited so any advice would be most welcome regarding a general set up for around £1K budget.

I've always had a strong interest in wildlife but appreciate that's probably a step too far budget wise but suggestions welcome as I'd be willing to compromise for now and maybe add a 100-400 at a later date.
Click to expand...

I came from a D800E and mostly FX 2.8 lenses to the XT-1 with a few primes, and old MF lenses. But I wanted to 'slow down' a bit, and just get back to enjoying photography for 'me'. Was tired of being asked to cover events for peanuts just because I had this 'big pro camera' - I also have a duffed back from an old surgery and carrying that heavy gear was killing me on long treks.

I still do odd jobs for people and get paid as much :) but changing the gear allowed me to pay off some loans and still have decent equipment for my hobby. The XT-1 is still a very capable camera, it is not all that much inferior to the XT-2. They are built pretty much the same, the image quality is almost as good, where it lacks is more in AF speed, AF controls [doesn't have the thumbstick] - less AF points and no 4K video really. Side by side images from both using the same settings on the same scene and you'd be hard pressed to tell the difference.

I have the xpro1 also, but I wouldn't recommend it to someone looking to switch. It's a lot slower than the T1, it's not near as good for using MF lenses and the evf is not as good. It's a great camera, but if you're used to dslr it will feel pretty sluggish as a first Fuji. I'd recommend the XT10 over it if you want to save as much as possible on a body.

With your budget I would suggest a used XT-1, try find a used 55-200, and a 35mm F2. You may need to go a little over for that, depending on used prices.
 
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wardy07 said:
The more I see and read about the Fuji systems the more I get tempted to sell my DSLR kit and defect here.
Unfortunately I won't be able to hit the high level bodies and lenses just yet as funds will be limited so any advice would be most welcome regarding a general set up for around £1K budget.

I've always had a strong interest in wildlife but appreciate that's probably a step too far budget wise but suggestions welcome as I'd be willing to compromise for now and maybe add a 100-400 at a later date.
Click to expand...

As @Cagey75 says the X-T1 is probably the way to go, for general purpose and wildlife options (within your budget). The big difference between this and other Fuji X-Trans1 and 2 sensor offerings is the EVF, its big bright and just lovely to use. S/H this will eat £400 of your budget. The X-T1 also has some zone focus and tracking options.

Regarding lenses you have £600 left to play with, this gives lots of options, and it really depends if you want any wide aperture lenses in the mix. Besides the 55-200 there is a lower cost 50-230 zoom, its plastic bodied, still optically good, but doesn't open as wide, but its available in Mk1 form for £100-£130

Possible Options are:-

1) @Cagey's suggestion 55-200 + 35mm F2 - going to be just about on budget
2) 18-55mm + 55-200mm - just over budget (£650 ish), don't think of 18-55mm as a kit lens it really is rather good
3) 18-55mm + 50-230mm - under budget at around £375, you could probably squeeze in a 35mm prime as well and be about on budget

and lots of other combinations!!

Or just get X-T1 + 18-55mm, have a play to see if you like the Fuji system then invest in the 100-400 when funds permit.
 
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Cagey75 said:
I came from a D800E and mostly FX 2.8 lenses to the XT-1 with a few primes, and old MF lenses. But I wanted to 'slow down' a bit, and just get back to enjoying photography for 'me'. Was tired of being asked to cover events for peanuts just because I had this 'big pro camera' - I also have a duffed back from an old surgery and carrying that heavy gear was killing me on long treks.

I still do odd jobs for people and get paid as much :) but changing the gear allowed me to pay off some loans and still have decent equipment for my hobby. The XT-1 is still a very capable camera, it is not all that much inferior to the XT-2. They are built pretty much the same, the image quality is almost as good, where it lacks is more in AF speed, AF controls [doesn't have the thumbstick] - less AF points and no 4K video really. Side by side images from both using the same settings on the same scene and you'd be hard pressed to tell the difference.

I have the xpro1 also, but I wouldn't recommend it to someone looking to switch. It's a lot slower than the T1, it's not near as good for using MF lenses and the evf is not as good. It's a great camera, but if you're used to dslr it will feel pretty sluggish as a first Fuji. I'd recommend the XT10 over it if you want to save as much as possible on a body.

With your budget I would suggest a used XT-1, try find a used 55-200, and a 35mm F2. You may need to go a little over for that, depending on used prices.
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Thanks for your detailed reply all of which makes sense. I was thinking XT-1 to be honest as I've been thinking about this move in advance of the XT-2 being released.
I like the sound of the 18-55 f2.8-4 lens as well so maybe I'll think along those lines to start with.
There's quite a lot of T1's around so finding one of those isn't an issue but the lens may be a different story as they seem very popular.
I really appreciate your advice.
 
Mr Perceptive said:
As @Cagey75 says the X-T1 is probably the way to go, for general purpose and wildlife options (within your budget). The big difference between this and other Fuji X-Trans1 and 2 sensor offerings is the EVF, its big bright and just lovely to use. S/H this will eat £400 of your budget. The X-T1 also has some zone focus and tracking options.

Regarding lenses you have £600 left to play with, this gives lots of options, and it really depends if you want any wide aperture lenses in the mix. Besides the 55-200 there is a lower cost 50-230 zoom, its plastic bodied, still optically good, but doesn't open as wide, but its available in Mk1 form for £100-£130

Possible Options are:-

1) @Cagey's suggestion 55-200 + 35mm F2 - going to be just about on budget
2) 18-55mm + 55-200mm - just over budget (£650 ish), don't think of 18-55mm as a kit lens it really is rather good
3) 18-55mm + 50-230mm - under budget at around £375, you could probably squeeze in a 35mm prime as well and be about on budget

and lots of other combinations!!

Or just get X-T1 + 18-55mm, have a play to see if you like the Fuji system then invest in the 100-400 when funds permit.
Click to expand...
Thanks for your great advice, it's helped me think the right way forward.
@Cagey75 has pretty much suggested the same regarding body, XT-1 being the favourite as I think I'd Fring the XT-10 too small. I like gripped DSLR's so going too small would probably put me off odd though that may sound.
As for lenses, I think the 18-55 f2.8-4 would be a good starting point and then add something longer if I decide it's Fuji for me...which I think I will.
 
wardy07 said:
Thanks for your great advice, it's helped me think the right way forward.
@Cagey75 has pretty much suggested the same regarding body, XT-1 being the favourite as I think I'd Fring the XT-10 too small. I like gripped DSLR's so going too small would probably put me off odd though that may sound.
As for lenses, I think the 18-55 f2.8-4 would be a good starting point and then add something longer if I decide it's Fuji for me...which I think I will.
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I was lucky in finding a used XT-1 official grip on here for a very nice price. I like the grip on it, makes it feel much beefier and more comfortable, maybe because I was used to big bulky dslrs. I would look at Meike grips, I had one of theirs for the D800 and it was grand, used it for a couple of years without fail. They can be got for around £50
 
Cagey75 said:
I was lucky in finding a used XT-1 official grip on here for a very nice price. I like the grip on it, makes it feel much beefier and more comfortable, maybe because I was used to big bulky dslrs. I would look at Meike grips, I had one of theirs for the D800 and it was grand, used it for a couple of years without fail. They can be got for around £50
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Yes I will do, I had a Meike on my 7D11 a while back and it worked perfectly.
 
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Cagey75 said:
Great example of no mush or 'artifacts' in the foliage here. What software did you use to process?
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I just used Camera RAW and Photoshop. I did most of the sharpening in Camera RAW (high radius, low detail), then a detail enhance layer thing and a little high pass at the end.

Sharpening Fuji files is something Im still getting used to again (shot Fuji briefly before) but this seems to work.
 
EspressoJunkie said:
I just used Camera RAW and Photoshop. I did most of the sharpening in Camera RAW (high radius, low detail), then a detail enhance layer thing and a little high pass at the end.

Sharpening Fuji files is something Im still getting used to again (shot Fuji briefly before) but this seems to work.
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Well, it certainly does the job from what I see, good work :)
 
G.K.Jnr. said:
Just a simple shot taken of a Licence/Registration Plate that I found attractive. I tried to get the owner to sell the plate to me but he wasn't gonna play ball.

X-T1, 10-24mm Lens, 1/250th @ F8, ISO-200, Handheld.
F1 Zero-03333 by G.K.Jnr., on Flickr

:ty: for looking., (y):fuji:

George.
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Theres a guy who lives near me who apparently invented the tyre warmers they use in F1 while in the pits...
Seems to be in a different car every month, but always with a plate like "F1 HOT" or "F1 M4D".
 
Dave70D said:
Well if I come back with the X-T20 and a great lens tomorrow, I will run round the bloke in the rain in my boxers :D
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I still ponder on the XT20 every now and then. I want the speed and extra resolution, but I don't know if the size and lack of a battery grip for it would please me. It'll be cool to see how someone new to Fuji finds it though :)
 
Cagey75 said:
I still ponder on the XT20 every now and then. I want the speed and extra resolution, but I don't know if the size and lack of a battery grip for it would please me. It'll be cool to see how someone new to Fuji finds it though :)
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Hopfully the X-T20 tomorrow, then next month the X-T2 + 18-55mm.
 
Cagey75 said:
I still ponder on the XT20 every now and then. I want the speed and extra resolution, but I don't know if the size and lack of a battery grip for it would please me. It'll be cool to see how someone new to Fuji finds it though :)
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I added a grip to mine and it feels great :) Bizarrely I'm fairly sure I prefer the smaller evf too, as it appears sharper I guess due to the same resolution with less magnification. The camera's operation is not too dissimilar to that of the x-t1, other than there seems to be less lag when shooting - it feels more like a DSLR. AF with the 35/1.4 is really good too. I've not really noticed anything major IQ wise (other than a difference in rendering and the ability to switch off noise reduction completely).
 
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jakeblu said:
One from this morning

HayBale Sunrise by Steve Vickers, on Flickr
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gad-westy said:
I don't know if Fuji's work exactly the same as Nikon, just trying to establish that but on a Nikon the benefit I think is that you effectively get three focusing modes in 1:

You set the AF-on button to focus. The shutter button no longer does any focusing and the shutter will fire as soon as it's pressed. You set the camera to AF-C mode and leave it there regardless of what you're shooting. You can then shoot in the following ways without changing anything:

1) manual focus. Camera won't try to focus when you press shutter button so you have fully manual control whenever you like.
2) focus recompose. Focus on your subject then let go of AF-on button. re-compose then fire. Or in fact re-compose and wait for the right moment to fire, no matter how long.
3) Track moving subjects. Just hold down the AF-on button, track your subject and fire shots off whenever you like.

For me it's now almost essential.
Click to expand...

Nice picture - but that is rape stubble, so it cannot possibly be hay! It is rape straw baled up.

The trouble with Back Button Focus for me on the D3 and D4s is I can't reach unless I change my grip - so it never worked for me (I have very small hands). I used focus lock instead, using the buttons on the front of the lens. Or for more static subjects, switched to S mode focus, it was easy enough to flick the switch on the front.
 
Lensflare said:
Nice picture - but that is rape stubble, so it cannot possibly be hay! It is rape straw baled up.

The trouble with Back Button Focus for me on the D3 and D4s is I can't reach unless I change my grip - so it never worked for me (I have very small hands). I used focus lock instead, using the buttons on the front of the lens. Or for more static subjects, switched to S mode focus, it was easy enough to flick the switch on the front.
Click to expand...

Fair enough. There is never a one size fits all solution though worth mentioning that AF-On can be assigned to other buttons, not just the designated ones. Anyway, swaying slightly off topic here. As you were...
 
Lensflare said:
Nice picture - but that is rape stubble, so it cannot possibly be hay! It is rape straw baled up.

The trouble with Back Button Focus for me on the D3 and D4s is I can't reach unless I change my grip - so it never worked for me (I have very small hands). I used focus lock instead, using the buttons on the front of the lens. Or for more static subjects, switched to S mode focus, it was easy enough to flick the switch on the front.
Click to expand...

P.s. would be very interested to hear how you get on with the XT2 once you're up and running. I've used Nikon DSLR's for years and sounds like you have too so would be interested to hear how you find the transition.
 
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