The Fabulous Fuji X owners thread

An interesting update.

I thought I'd try using the time lapse function to run some experiments on this problem.

When in manual focus mode - through the EVF - focus looks tight. I set off the time lapse function and get the slightly out of focus images I've been mentioning.

If I switch it to auto focus - through the EVF - focus looks tight. I set off the time lapse function and images shoot the same as what I see in EVF.

What's that tell me? Well I think I've eliminated it having anything to do with shutter button half press functions. Wouldn't this also eliminate it being an EVF compensation - without the EVF only compensates in manual mode?
 
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And... Nailed it!!!!

OK - warning to all Manual shooters.

In your menu options you have something called Manual Focus Assist. By factory default this is set to highlights. Change that option to standard and it stopped the problem.

You probably won't have noticed the subtle difference when shooting manual outside and press the shutter, but you will get a different focus when you look back on your images later, not quite as sharp as that which you saw through either of the EVF's at the time you took the image.

Thanks for the ideas guys.
 
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souldeep said:
In your menu options you have something called Manual Focus Assist. By factory default this is set to highlights. Change that option to standard and it stopped the problem.
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Further playing and I noticed you can rotate through the Manual Focus Assist options, when in manual focus mode, by holding down the Focus Assist button for 1 second (found on the back of the camera).
 
Mr Perceptive said:
Haven't got a camera to hand and can't remember which setting custom 2 is, but my experience is that the zone tracking quality depends on the acquisition of the initial shot, if this isn't in focus, the zone tracking is likely to be out as well.

But I had no issues in getting initial shot in focus, using the XF90 which is similar in AF speed to the 50-140. We were shooting motorsport, car speeds 100mph ish

Were you panning ir trying to get 'still' shots

@G.K.Jnr. might be able to help here more as his company shoots F1 with Fuji gear
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Many thanks for your reply. I wasnt panning. Thats something else for me to learn! I get what you say about the zone tracking. Perhaps I should use single spot focus instead? What I find frustrating is not being able to zoom in close enough to check sharpness. So while I thought I was getting some cracking shots they just werent good enough at all!
 
Miss Cupcake said:
So while I thought I was getting some cracking shots they just werent good enough at all!
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Just a thought - seeing cracking shots through the EVF and then noticing afterwards that the images of moving objects looked blurred is probably nothing to do with type of focus. It maybe you wanted to open up the aperture a bit and bump up the shutter speed? The loose focus might just be down to a bit of movement at those speeds?

If you not gonna shoot a fast shutter speed on moving targets, and you are in close, you will need to play around with panning.

PS You mentioned you can't zoom in close enough to check focus. Did you press the focus assist which will zoom you right in? If it's to far using even focus assist then you are shooting a long way off and simply closing down the aperture as far as you can, and shooting as fast as you can, will freeze a car that far off (except maybe in the dark of night). Do you have an example shot of what you mean? That would help me work out what you could do in future.
 
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Miss Cupcake said:
Many thanks for your reply. I wasnt panning. Thats something else for me to learn! I get what you say about the zone tracking. Perhaps I should use single spot focus instead? What I find frustrating is not being able to zoom in close enough to check sharpness. So while I thought I was getting some cracking shots they just werent good enough at all!
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1/500 seems low to me if you were shooting action, any examples you can post because it depends on the type of shot really?
 
Hey Julian, just had a look at your web link there, many SUPERB hill climbing images there, the colours and content are Exquisite. Where they shot with the Fuji X system..?


Regards;
Peter
 
Miss Cupcake said:
Many thanks for your reply. I wasnt panning. Thats something else for me to learn! I get what you say about the zone tracking. Perhaps I should use single spot focus instead? What I find frustrating is not being able to zoom in close enough to check sharpness. So while I thought I was getting some cracking shots they just werent good enough at all!
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Are you shooting RAW only? If so, set the camera to RAW + JPG and you will find you can zoom in further when reviewing images on the screen :)
 
The XF100-400mm lens has just landed, heading out soon to give it a whirl, wet + windy here in central Scotland today, my trusty collie dog is looking like the perfect candidate for a photo shoot.......... again.


:)
 
macvisual said:
The XF100-400mm lens has just landed, heading out soon to give it a whirl, wet + windy here in central Scotland today, my trusty collie dog is looking like the perfect candidate for a photo shoot.......... again.


:)
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I'm in a 2nd floor office watching leaves fly past the window. You'll really test that OIS today :)
 
souldeep said:
Further playing and I noticed you can rotate through the Manual Focus Assist options, when in manual focus mode, by holding down the Focus Assist button for 1 second (found on the back of the camera).
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That's interesting. Mine is indeed set to standard. But i don't see why using peaking on the highlights should affect focus. That sounds like a bug to me.
 
Barrysprout said:
It's not changing the focus it just looks softer when the peaking disappears on the half press of the shutter.
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It looks sharper because the peaking lines all the the edges with white (or colour)
 
OK, first time using the newly arrived XF100-400mm lens, this afternoon, sorry, but my trusty four legged model loves posing it seems....! The bokeh is the business.



XF100-400 capture by Macvisual Photography, on Flickr


XT1 - XF100-400 - iso 200 - @ f/5.6 - 400mm end


 
jimmyjamjojo said:
Is that an eye?! That's incredible!
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Many thanks for that Sir, much appreciated.(y)

"I think it must be an eye, but to be perfectly honest I haven't a clue as to what the tiny slimy thing is though. The shot is roughly twice lfe size"

George.
 
chrism_scotland said:
Well its not a "full" return to Fuji but I've decided I'm finally going to do what I've wanted for a while and run my full frame Pentax K1 alongside a minimal Fuji line-up too and I've listed a lot of my Pentax glass on Ebay to raise funds, really intending only to keep the 24-70 and maybe my 15-30 if it doesn't sell.
Will allow me to focus that setup on the one thing I struggled with on the Fuji and thats landscapes... but will let me have a Fuji (undecided on X-Pro 2 or XT2) with a couple of primes for those days I don't need to lug the full frame kit and don't "need" 36mp....
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What Pentax glass are you selling?
 
Apparently Fuji are looking to release a new range topping professional XT body. :o
Apparently could cost up to $5000
Interesting times! :D
 
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Both Jessops and WEX are giving £100 off the 100-400mm using a voucher code if anybody is interested.
I'm going to hold out until double-cash back returns :)
 
Greggster said:
That's pretty amazing for 400mm Pete [emoji106]
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Thanks Gregg, I've just found out the shutter speed was 1/45 sec for that capture at iso 200. Maybe should have raised it a tad, but the 5stop stabilisation obviously kicked in.

:)
 
G.K.Jnr. said:
Just a candid street style shot taken at Canterbury Kent of a young man with his Guitar doing a bit of street playing. The Guitar the guy is using is a Gibson ES-347.

X-T2, 10-24mm Lens, 1/50th @ F4, ISO-200, Handheld.
Muso (14)-03689 by G.K.Jnr., on Flickr

:ty: for looking., (y):fuji:

George.
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Excellent capture George a BIG (y) up from me :fuji: too :)
 
Alan Clogwyn said:
Any flash stand will work, your flash shoudl have come with a plastic foot which has a tripod mounting thread in the bottom, so you can use a tripod as a stand if you want. One thing you will want to brush up on is Guide Number (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Guide_number) which is the relationship between your flash power and your aperture and working distance. Shutter speed does not come into it for flash only photos, but if you want to balance with daylight then you will need to consider it - since you'll be limited in possible shutter speeds set your daylight portion of exposure up first, so for example with your dog set him up so that your background is exposed as you want then transfer your now fixed aperture into your guide number calculation and set the flash power accordingly. The last bit can be done by trial and error easily enough.

To illustrate what I mean, here is one of my landscapes using flash. I first set the exposure to expose the building and the general background nice and dark, done by chimping it in this case, then I grab the flash, point it where I want to illuminate, I.e the foreground bottom left, and shoot. I just repeated the lat bit until I was happy with the intensity and spread from the flash and called it a day. Obviously the more you do it the easier the latter becomes to guesstimate off hand.

View attachment 97568
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Very dramatic love it !
 
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