The Fabulous Fuji X owners thread

tijuana taxi said:
No man young or old looks good with a shoulder bag, ask your wife or girlfriend if you don't believe me.

Nearly as bad as those little man purses with a tray, the hand action used to shake the change into the tray part just about says it all.
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:angelic: :oops: :$
 
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jimmyjamjojo said:
Thinking about doing a 100 strangers project soon. I figure it'll help with my shyness and I rather enjoy a good portrait.
Anyone here done one? Any pearls of wisdom not commonly found by googling?
Most recommend around 85mm equivalent focal length, so can either go long on the 18-55 or short on the 55-200, i'm guessing the latter would be better.... OR I could rationalise buying a helios 44-2... ;)
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Iain @blakester did one of these Jimmy, and extremely good it was too.(y)

"I guess he'll be able to give you a few pointers if he gets to see this post":D

George.
 
Gadget-Guy said:
So that's my working year done at BSB and did use both the Fuji and 1DX MKII today as even though its a massive step in the right direction with the X-T2 it does still fall behind the top end cameras when working in all honesty.

Still think its a massive step in the right direction but seems as if the EVF is the one thing that causes a problem along with battery life.

If they could loose the very,very slight delay you get from the EVF when shooting fast action it would be perfect as the A/F system is spot on.

Seems to lack in exposure latitude compared to my !DX MKII as you can really pull the shadow detail back but i t could just be the fact i need to adjust the way i work.

Still am very impressed with how good it is but wouldn't want to rely on it at this time to make me a living.

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Some pretty impressive shots there Glen, also good to hear you're reports on the X-T2 setup.(y)

George.
 
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Here's a bit of painterliness from my hols, though again not the kind that people are complaining about, I think


More than one use for a sunset by David Hallett, on Flickr

As regards sharpening, I usually go with the Detail 100, Amount small, Masking around 40-50 approach in LR, then adjust Radius a little if I'm not satisfied, Make sure you work at 100% in LR, otherwise it won'r render the results accurately.

But lately I've been trying removing all NR and sharpening in LR, and using the Nik tools (now free) after export to Photoshop instead. This also seems to work pretty well (or you can try a High Pass Sharpen, etc.) and the masking is easier if you only want to sharpen part of the image. I'm a Windows user, so have fewer options than some of you, and although I like C1, the difference isn't enough to be worth the money or disruption to me.
 
On the subject of GAS, here's an interesting quote from Brian Eno. He's talking about recording music, but I think the same applies to photography, in spades.
It’s partly to do with engineers working with very limited resources and really understanding them well. If you’ve only got two mics, one compressor and a couple of pre-amps, you really know what they do, because you’re using them every single day. It’s like an artist who is extremely good with water colours. Water colour is a very limited medium but you can become incredibly good with it if that is all you have. Those old African recordings, and a lot of old rhythm ‘n’ blues and early doo-wop and so on, in many respects they were incredibly limited in recording tools. But nonetheless, the people who were using those limited tools had a real rapport with them, and knew how to get exciting results from them.
For instance, I once recorded in West Africa with a Ghanaian band called Edikanfo [on the group’s 1981 album The Pace Setters]. I worked with an engineer there in a little studio that was a joke by Western terms. He had a really random bundle of microphones. One of them was from a Sony cassette recorder, a really cheap mic, but he used it brilliantly. He put it over the drum kit and he got a really vibrant, lively sound from it. If you’d shown that set-up to a Western engineer then they would have laughed at you. And the same with the instruments. Sometimes the instruments the guys were using were really crappy old electric guitars. But they knew how to work with them, how to get something special out of them
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That said, I have no regrets about moving to an X-T10 from my old Pentax K-10D. It's just better in so many ways! But I think the more you can keep exploring one consistent set of equipment, the more you'll discover.
 
dave.hallett said:
Here's a bit of painterliness from my hols, though again not the kind that people are complaining about, I think


More than one use for a sunset by David Hallett, on Flickr

As regards sharpening, I usually go with the Detail 100, Amount small, Masking around 40-50 approach in LR, then adjust Radius a little if I'm not satisfied, Make sure you work at 100% in LR, otherwise it won'r render the results accurately.

But lately I've been trying removing all NR and sharpening in LR, and using the Nik tools (now free) after export to Photoshop instead. This also seems to work pretty well (or you can try a High Pass Sharpen, etc.) and the masking is easier if you only want to sharpen part of the image. I'm a Windows user, so have fewer options than some of you, and although I like C1, the difference isn't enough to be worth the money or disruption to me.
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Lovely light :)
 
dave.hallett said:
Here's a bit of painterliness from my hols, though again not the kind that people are complaining about, I think


More than one use for a sunset by David Hallett, on Flickr

As regards sharpening, I usually go with the Detail 100, Amount small, Masking around 40-50 approach in LR, then adjust Radius a little if I'm not satisfied, Make sure you work at 100% in LR, otherwise it won'r render the results accurately.

But lately I've been trying removing all NR and sharpening in LR, and using the Nik tools (now free) after export to Photoshop instead. This also seems to work pretty well (or you can try a High Pass Sharpen, etc.) and the masking is easier if you only want to sharpen part of the image. I'm a Windows user, so have fewer options than some of you, and although I like C1, the difference isn't enough to be worth the money or disruption to me.
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+1 on the light - well done for spotting it as well as capturing it. A little bit of magic in this shot.
 
G.K.Jnr. said:
Iain @blakester did one of these Jimmy, and extremely good it was too.(y)

"I guess he'll be able to give you a few pointers if he gets to see this post":D

George.
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Thanks for the tag George (y)

@jimmyjamjojo
Jimmy, I've completed two rounds of 100 strangers now, I won't spam this thread about it but if you've any queries or questions regarding it, please pm me and I will be happy to help.
 
Ok this is a very amateur question but I need to know what (clearly I) am doing wrong!

I've come from a Panasonic M4T system and with that, I could turn it all to auto and make it a point and shoot - I found this great for little get togethers where I didn't want to set my scene and mess about with anything as I was there to relax as much as take a good snap.

With the X-T2 I can't seem to get it to act in the same way in that I want whatever is in the foreground or whatever I 'point' at to auto snap in to focus on the LCD. I don't wanna look in the EVF or tap any buttons to focus. When I'm out actually shooting then I can spend time on my shot but I don't want that when I'm at the local dog and duck with my mates!


I get that this is probably a stupid question but hey ho!
 
Adamsk1 said:
Ok this is a very amateur question but I need to know what (clearly I) am doing wrong!

I've come from a Panasonic M4T system and with that, I could turn it all to auto and make it a point and shoot - I found this great for little get togethers where I didn't want to set my scene and mess about with anything as I was there to relax as much as take a good snap.

With the X-T2 I can't seem to get it to act in the same way in that I want whatever is in the foreground or whatever I 'point' at to auto snap in to focus on the LCD. I don't wanna look in the EVF or tap any buttons to focus. When I'm out actually shooting then I can spend time on my shot but I don't want that when I'm at the local dog and duck with my mates!


I get that this is probably a stupid question but hey ho!
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Try either changing the size of the focus box, or using zone focussing.
 
Cuchulainn said:
+1 on the light - well done for spotting it as well as capturing it. A little bit of magic in this shot.
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Thanks both! And yeah, of course originally I was photographing the sunset, just like everyone else on the quay. Very nice too. But then I looked to my right, and thought, oooh that's nice! It does pay to look around... :-D
 
dave.hallett said:
Here's a bit of painterliness from my hols, though again not the kind that people are complaining about, I think


More than one use for a sunset by David Hallett, on Flickr

As regards sharpening, I usually go with the Detail 100, Amount small, Masking around 40-50 approach in LR, then adjust Radius a little if I'm not satisfied, Make sure you work at 100% in LR, otherwise it won'r render the results accurately.

But lately I've been trying removing all NR and sharpening in LR, and using the Nik tools (now free) after export to Photoshop instead. This also seems to work pretty well (or you can try a High Pass Sharpen, etc.) and the masking is easier if you only want to sharpen part of the image. I'm a Windows user, so have fewer options than some of you, and although I like C1, the difference isn't enough to be worth the money or disruption to me.
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Very nice shot Dave, well composed with some lovely light and a very nice sky.(y)

George.
 
dave.hallett said:
Here's a bit of painterliness from my hols, though again not the kind that people are complaining about, I think


More than one use for a sunset by David Hallett, on Flickr

As regards sharpening, I usually go with the Detail 100, Amount small, Masking around 40-50 approach in LR, then adjust Radius a little if I'm not satisfied, Make sure you work at 100% in LR, otherwise it won'r render the results accurately.

But lately I've been trying removing all NR and sharpening in LR, and using the Nik tools (now free) after export to Photoshop instead. This also seems to work pretty well (or you can try a High Pass Sharpen, etc.) and the masking is easier if you only want to sharpen part of the image. I'm a Windows user, so have fewer options than some of you, and although I like C1, the difference isn't enough to be worth the money or disruption to me.
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I have a feeling we saw that pair just East of Heraklion on the 15th Sept! Doing exactly the same thing on a breakwater. Pretty close top the spot you were stood for the shot above is a great little taverna called Karnagio. If you go back, give it a try!
 
Thanks @G.K.Jnr. and @Stephen L ! Of course it would probably look better without the boat, but what can you do :). I'm vaguely considering trying to take out the gangway in Photoshop, but the whole boat is asking a bit much. @Nod you may well be right, and thanks for the taverna tip. Despite the compact camera, I'd say the girl wielding it knew what she was about, and the pics were probably pretty good!

PS It's a tribute to the X-T10 and 18-55 kit that this was almost how it came out of camera. I just darkened the sky a tad, and warmed the whole thing slightly (it was shot in RAW with Daylight WB setting).
 
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dave.hallett said:
thanks for the taverna tip. Despite the compact camera, I'd say the girl wielding it knew what she was about, and the pics were probably pretty good!
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They were there for a while waiting (presumably) for the sun to be in reach! I was taking a few snaps from a café about 1/4 mile from them and wondered if they were in one of them but I was snapping a kite surfer and missed the young ladies!

We're in Chania a couple of times a year so if it's a regular haunt of yours, maybe we could do some Ouzo sampling and people watching around the harbour?
 
XT1 query; out for a 90 minute walk with the dogs in/around a local Dam/forest with the XT1 + XF55-200, seems I had to under expose very often as the compensation dial set at '0', seemed to over expose virtually every shot. ISO was around 400. Can't work it out.
Was under exposing nearly a full stop under.

Any ideas.....?
 
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macvisual said:
XT1 query; out for a 90 minute walk with the dogs in/around a local Dam/forest with the XT1 + XF55-200, seems I had to under expose very often as the compensation dial set at '0', seemed to over expose virtually every shot. ISO was around 400. Can't work it out.

Any ideas.....?
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Difficult to guess with out an example. Spot meter selected ?
 
Or even forget you've done on purpose!
 
macvisual said:
I used the middle metering symbol, isn't that average metering from the choice of the three on the top panel...?
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Centre weighted average on the X-T1.
 
I do like the lock/unlock toggle button on the SS and ISO dials on the X-T2 rather than the only lock on Auto SS on the X-T1 and press to turn on both.
 
Yup! The LCE gave me £125 for 25 quid's worth of D70 so I grabbed it.

Peter, that could be the problem. Try again with the [ ] rather than [o].
 
Nod said:
They were there for a while waiting (presumably) for the sun to be in reach! I was taking a few snaps from a café about 1/4 mile from them and wondered if they were in one of them but I was snapping a kite surfer and missed the young ladies!

We're in Chania a couple of times a year so if it's a regular haunt of yours, maybe we could do some Ouzo sampling and people watching around the harbour?
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I'm not a big fan of the ouzo :-) But I'm sure we could work something out. And yes, we've been every year for three years now, usually around early September. I'll give you a shout when next I know we're going!
 
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