The Fabulous Fuji X owners thread

LOL! Well, I love the bagpipes so maybe it would sound just fine to me. :D
The definition of a Scottish gentleman is someone who can play the bagpipes - and doesn't. I used to work in Edinburgh and had to pass the pipe buskers daily.
 
its a hurdy gurdy, I think


It is indeed a "Hurdy Gurdy", and not the easiest instrument on the planet to play.(y)

George.
 
The definition of a Scottish gentleman is someone who can play the bagpipes - and doesn't. I used to work in Edinburgh and had to pass the pipe buskers daily.

LOL! I once met a shop-keeper in a small village in Denmark. He told me they had a resident Scottish pensioner who got drunk once a week and would march through the village at midnight playing the bagpipes. :D
 
Just a simple shot of some "Bleeding Heart" flowers from the garden.

X-T1, 105mm Micro Nikkor Lens, 1/125th @ F16, 200-ISO, Multi Diffused Flash.
Bleeding Heart (2)-02900 by G.K.Jnr., on Flickr

:ty: for looking and any comments welcome.,(y):fuji:

George.

Brilliant image there pal

Hmm Nikon lens on the xt1 that got me interested. Better read up on that as can't ask questions on here lol
 
Brilliant image there pal

Hmm Nikon lens on the xt1 that got me interested. Better read up on that as can't ask questions on here lol


Thank you Andrew, much appreciate you stoppin' by to comment.(y)

"The lens is 105mm Micro Nikkor D Lens. All the Nikon D lenses have aperture rings so they can be stopped down manually and they are designed for Full Frame. This one is mounted on my X-T1 using a cheepo Nikon Ai to Fuji-X adapter from fleabay".

George.
 
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Thank you Andrew, much appreciate you stoppin' by to comment.(y)

"The lens is 105mm Micro Nikkor D Lens. All the Nikon D lenses have aperture rings so they can be stopped down manually and they are designed for Full Frame. This one is mounted on my X-T1 using a cheepo Fuji to Nikon Ai adapter from fleabay".

George.

I don't own one now but I'd love to try a Nikon 70-180mm Micro Nikkor on some bugs. The ability to zoom is very handy.
 
Just a simple shot of some "Bleeding Heart" flowers from the garden.

X-T1, 105mm Micro Nikkor Lens, 1/125th @ F16, 200-ISO, Multi Diffused Flash.
Bleeding Heart (2)-02900 by G.K.Jnr., on Flickr

:ty: for looking and any comments welcome.,(y):fuji:

George.

Very well done George. We have these in our garden too :)
 
Tell me more about these mount converters. I assume that it's all manual and ideally the lens should have an aperture ring. There's some reasonably good cheap manual lenses out there - just seen a Canon 100mm f2.8 in FD fitting :) Surely the mount moves the lens further forward, so it would have the effect of a short lens tube and allow slightly closer focusing ?

Do you use the cheap converters found on Ebay for around £10-£20 ?
 
I don't own one now but I'd love to try a Nikon 70-180mm Micro Nikkor on some bugs. The ability to zoom is very handy.


I've got the 200mm F4 D Micro Nikkor, which is very nice on Full Frame and optically superb, but I find it a bit too long when used on my X-T1.(y)

George.
 
Tell me more about these mount converters. I assume that it's all manual and ideally the lens should have an aperture ring. There's some reasonably good cheap manual lenses out there - just seen a Canon 100mm f2.8 in FD fitting :) Surely the mount moves the lens further forward, so it would have the effect of a short lens tube and allow slightly closer focusing ?

Do you use the cheap converters found on Ebay for around £10-£20 ?

The mount moves the lens to where it needs to be to focus properly on a Nikon DSLR / film camera, so won't get you any closer. You can buy extension tubes though, and old manual Nikon ones should be relatively cheap.
 
I've got the 200mm F4 D Micro Nikkor, which is very nice on Full Frame and optically superb, but I find it a bit too long when used on my X-T1.(y)

George.

Yes, I had one of those, too. Superb lenses but would certainly be a tad limited on an X-T1. The 70-180 would work well, tho, I think. Might pick one up later down the line.
 
Tell me more about these mount converters. I assume that it's all manual and ideally the lens should have an aperture ring. There's some reasonably good cheap manual lenses out there - just seen a Canon 100mm f2.8 in FD fitting :) Surely the mount moves the lens further forward, so it would have the effect of a short lens tube and allow slightly closer focusing ?

Do you use the cheap converters found on Ebay for around £10-£20 ?
The mount does indeed move the lens away from the body, but by the appropriate distance to suit a mirrorless camera, so the focussing range stays the same. I generally use the cheap Ebay converters; it can be a bit hit and miss regarding accuracy, but generally they're fine. Yes, you want a lens with its own aperture ring which basically means a lens from a film camera.
 
Tell me more about these mount converters. I assume that it's all manual and ideally the lens should have an aperture ring. There's some reasonably good cheap manual lenses out there - just seen a Canon 100mm f2.8 in FD fitting :) Surely the mount moves the lens further forward, so it would have the effect of a short lens tube and allow slightly closer focusing ?

Do you use the cheap converters found on Ebay for around £10-£20 ?


The adapters just allow third party lenses ie Nikon/Canon, etc, etc, to be mounted on the Fuji-X body. You are correct in thinking that the mount moves the lens further away from the body but this does not have the effect of a short tube etc, as an SLR lens needs to be mounted further away to compensate for there being no SLR Mirror Box on a CSC camera. So basically the mount is just taking the place of the Mirror Box and changing the lens mount. To get any closer than the lens minimum focus distance you would need to add an extension tube etc between the lens and the mount.

By fitting third party lenses it helps to have a lens with a manual aperture ring as there will be no electrical contacts between the camera and lens so the lens will need to be stopped down and focused manually. You can get mounts with a means of stopping non aperture ring lenses down but to be perfectly honest they leave a bit to be desired in there operation.

When using third party lenses you would be able to use the camera in Fully Manual or Aperture Priority modes and meter accordingly.

I think that answers all of the questions, and I hope this all helps.

George.
 
Couple taken the other day with the 35mm F2.0 - really liking this little lens and enjoying the (relatively) fast aperture




It's a cracking lens, and is now my walkabout lens which is weird as I never got on with the 50mm focal length on my Nikon [emoji51]
 
It's a cracking lens, and is now my walkabout lens which is weird as I never got on with the 50mm focal length on my Nikon [emoji51]


I've been worrying about you m8,:D:D but seriously have you dropped out of the Nikon fold now?

George.
 
Thank you Andrew, much appreciate you stoppin' by to comment.(y)

"The lens is 105mm Micro Nikkor D Lens. All the Nikon D lenses have aperture rings so they can be stopped down manually and they are designed for Full Frame. This one is mounted on my X-T1 using a cheepo Nikon Ai to Fuji-X adapter from fleabay".

George.

Thank you George for that useful information. All my nikons are the new lens so that out of question I guess lol
 
Thank you George for that useful information. All my nikons are the new lens so that out of question I guess lol
Actually you can get adapters for G lenses (but I haven't tried them as I don't have any). Unlike Canon, the aperture can still be closed down mechanically. The only problem is that you won't know exactly what aperture you're using, although you should be able to deduce it approximately by the change in exposure values.
 
I've been away for a while, including a week in Cornwall where I did almost nothing other than take rather too many pictures :). Got my first chance to try out my new Samyang 12mm. It takes a bit of getting used to, and keeping your shadow out of shot on sunny afternoons can be a challenge, but once I got the hang of focusing it, I was pretty impressed with the image quality. Here's an early effort from the rather fabulous Barnoon Cemetery.

Barnoon Cemetery 1 by David Hallett, on Flickr
 
I've been worrying about you m8,:D:D but seriously have you dropped out of the Nikon fold now?

George.

No, still with Nikon, I feel like I have the best of both worlds! The D800e is just sublime and will be used for my 'intentional' photography, when I know what I want to go and shoot. The Fuji is just so portable and great to 'grab' and chuck in a bag, and I've always been in love with using Fuji gear [emoji38]
 
I've been away for a while, including a week in Cornwall where I did almost nothing other than take rather too many pictures :). Got my first chance to try out my new Samyang 12mm. It takes a bit of getting used to, and keeping your shadow out of shot on sunny afternoons can be a challenge, but once I got the hang of focusing it, I was pretty impressed with the image quality. Here's an early effort from the rather fabulous Barnoon Cemetery.

Barnoon Cemetery 1 by David Hallett, on Flickr
That's a well-composed and exposed shot. Bet it looks moody in mono.
 
That's a well-composed and exposed shot. Bet it looks moody in mono.
Thanks Stephen! And yes, it does. It seems a natural candidate for mono, but in the end I decided the colour version had the edge. It's definitely horses for courses, however. And if you have a suggestion on how to improve the mono version...

13247775_10206306456796831_1425128306118306879_o.jpg
 
That's good. I might lift the shadows just a tad, but I'm no expert.
 
And I thought mine was in good nick. That thing actually looks new!
 
Looks very nice! I thought about acquiring one, but I found a 57mm Hexanon 1.4 to adapt instead. I haven't used it much yet, but it seems pretty useful for portraits. Soft and glowy but potentially useful wide open, immediately sharper at f/2 and 2.8, by f/4 probably picking up more skin texture than most female subjects would prefer :D. I find focusing it accurately at those wide apertures a bit tricky, but my experience with MF and moving subjects is limited and others would doubtless do better.
 
That's good. I might lift the shadows just a tad, but I'm no expert.
Yeah, now that I look at it, the church doorway and that tree behind it are both probably a bit too black. That's not going to make much difference to the overall effect, but I would fix before printing. Ta!
 
Looks very nice! I thought about acquiring one, but I found a 57mm Hexanon 1.4 to adapt instead. I haven't used it much yet, but it seems pretty useful for portraits. Soft and glowy but potentially useful wide open, immediately sharper at f/2 and 2.8, by f/4 probably picking up more skin texture than most female subjects would prefer :D. I find focusing it accurately at those wide apertures a bit tricky, but my experience with MF and moving subjects is limited and others would doubtless do better.
I have one of those; it focuses superbly on the X-Pro2.
 
I do like Helioses, but only on full frame to take advantage of the swirliness. I don't think I too any interesting pics with mine, I used it as a closeish focussing lens for taking pics of my model trains mostly, then sold it. Not enough of the swirl and soft edges on APS for my liking. The fungus riddled Minolta 135mm, now that was fun though!
 
Looks very nice! I thought about acquiring one, but I found a 57mm Hexanon 1.4 to adapt instead. I haven't used it much yet, but it seems pretty useful for portraits. Soft and glowy but potentially useful wide open, immediately sharper at f/2 and 2.8, by f/4 probably picking up more skin texture than most female subjects would prefer :D. I find focusing it accurately at those wide apertures a bit tricky, but my experience with MF and moving subjects is limited and others would doubtless do better.

The 40mm is like that too, but very, very sharp once stopped down some.
 
What a pain in the arse! I went to park cameras today to check out the handling of the X-T1 and there it was in the glass cabinet.... would anyone help me...NO!

One guy was then free and we went to ask him and he said sorry can't I'm going for lunch...

So had a go on the A7II which seemed ok, EVF seemed average though.... but maybe that's because I was used to the D750.

50mins later I walked out thinking no better off!
 
What a pain in the arse! I went to park cameras today to check out the handling of the X-T1 and there it was in the glass cabinet.... would anyone help me...NO!

One guy was then free and we went to ask him and he said sorry can't I'm going for lunch...

So had a go on the A7II which seemed ok, EVF seemed average though.... but maybe that's because I was used to the D750.

50mins later I walked out thinking no better off!

That is pretty poor tbh and I'm surprised because Park has always been fantastic for me. The A7 EVF is good but the XT1 EVF is better. I still prefer an OVF (especially in bright light) but an EVF can be incredibly useful, seeing live DOF, Monotones, exposures etc.
 
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