The Fabulous Fuji X owners thread

domart said:
P

partly, although also for extra light gathering, I often work in really low light and 1/3 of a stop makes a difference

I like 1.8 on full frame, a 1.4 on crop acts more like a 2.2, people say it's equivalent to f2 but I shot them side by side and it's more like 2.2-2.8
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I shoot ff alongside as well, the exposure is the same (besides slight manufacturer differences). FF can give you an advantage due to the larger sensor and less noise (so you cancan potentially use a higher ISO), but a f1.2 lens stays f1.2 with regards to exposure whether on crop or ff.
 
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mickledore said:
Thank you. I hadn't heard the 80/20 rule but it sums everything up nicely.
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Its the same rule that applies to the workplace, 80% of the work is done by 20% of the people.
 
OK. Problem solved, or not.

I've received a reply from head honcho at the triger company. I'll paste the full reply for you below.
it does appear that there is a shutter lag on mirrorless systems. A quick trawl through the Fuji users forums throws up many answers.
It also seems that the delay on my triger is at zero when on minimum setting so can't easily be reduced further.

Maybe mirrorless systems can't be used with this type of trigger. May be worth bearing in mind with other pieces of hardware that may be used in conjunction with the set up.

The reply is:-

The camera delay settings are from 0ms - 200ms therefore this setting cannot
be reduced. This is measured after the shutter actuation time

There are a few things that you can try.

1. Half press the shutter (and keep it half pressed) while activating the
control box. If this works a lead modification will do the trick.
2. Make sure all auto functions are disabled iso, white balance etc
3. Make sure all AE and AF functions are disabled.
4. Flash sync to 1st curtain
5. Disable WiFi / Geotagging
6. Stopping the lens down less (You will decrease DOF) see below.

From a little research it seems that that the Fuji X-T1 adds shutter lag as
the lens is stopped down ! this could be a big part of your problem

http://www.fujix-forum.com/threads/perceived-operating-speed-shutter-lag-af.40879/

http://www.fujix-forum.com/search/1...perture-blades-stopping-dow&o=date&c[node]=66


This type of anomaly is why I cannot support mirrorless camera systems.



http://www.fujix-forum.com/threads/perceived-operating-speed-shutter-lag-af.40879/

http://www.fujix-forum.com/search/1...perture-blades-stopping-dow&o=date&c[node]=66
 
mickledore said:
Just a thought...if Boss man can't/won't help do you want me to drop the gear off with you and you can tinker to your heart's content? Are you good with electronics or not?
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Frank, rather than mod an existing box, I think I'll just build a new one, it will be an interesting little project! I already have an industrial strobe controller that can be configured to produce two different delay outputs from the same input trigger. I will have to work out how to connect this to the Fuji as it's designed for industrial digital cameras rather than a consumer product, then I can experiment with a single trigger providing an output to the camera, and a second output going to a light. I can also set durations in each of the outputs, so should be able to run the Fuji in Bulb mode and effectively start and stop exposure.

I've read your other post regarding the mirrorless delays, so all of that needs to be taken into account.
 
David. I just wish I understood anything that goes on with electronics! Don't forget to build in a solenoid controller that releases varying numbers of drops of varying sizes at variable intervals.

You said you wanted a challenge!!!
 
manualfocus-g said:
Spot on. It's the old 80/20 rule. Essentially, the Fooj delivers 80% of what my DSLR can...but in a much lighter, smaller, sexier and more entertaining to use package :)
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For me photography is capturing moments , future memories. I've had Canon full frame cameras since the 5D came out and loved the use and the output of them, but the fact is they are heavy, especially with L glass attached. It got to the point I was totally disinclined to take them out, long story short I sold my 5D3 all my L glass, I kept my 5DC with my 50mm 1.8 and my 24-105 because I love the camera. I've totally bought into the X system now. True the quality will never rival full frame but in 40 years of photography I've never printed anything bigger than 15x12 and even then only a handful of times. Bottom line I use my x cameras regularly. On holiday I never go out without mx X100T. I'm taking more photos and enjoy doing so, isn't what amateur photography is about ?
 
Sometime, somewhere us lot should get together for a day/weekend meet. Don't think there would be much togging done but we'd all learn an awful lot!!!
 
mickledore said:
Sometime, somewhere us lot should get together for a day/weekend meet. Don't think there would be much togging done but we'd all learn an awful lot!!!
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I would suggest a Scottish meet, and if anyone wants to take a few scenic shots they can.
 
Hi folks I was wondering if anyone has any experience of the RRS L-plate on an XT1.

I was thinking of buying one and wondered if its possible to open the access door on the side of the camera and run it with say a trigger trap connected when the L-plate is being used to support the camera portrait style?
 
I have to admit the "only" 16mp sensor has begun to impress me a little, I took this shot on Friday and sheer megapixels aside I'm struggling to tell it apart from an almost identical shot with the old D800 a year ago:

20151204 Bank of Scotland - Edinburgh by Chris Mitchell, on Flickr

I'm beginning to see again why the Fuji gear is so popular, for web-size are more pixels really needed?
 
CiaranMc said:
Hi folks I was wondering if anyone has any experience of the RRS L-plate on an XT1.

I was thinking of buying one and wondered if its possible to open the access door on the side of the camera and run it with say a trigger trap connected when the L-plate is being used to support the camera portrait style?
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Hi, I have the Sunwayfoto PFL-XTR1 L Bracket, which to me looks identical to the RRS L plate, but is half the price! I also have a trigger trap. yes they work together fine and you can access the door with the plate attached but..... If you do the cable comes out through the L side and then you can't use the bracket in portrait mode on a tripod!!!!!

The trigger trap cable can be routed between the bracket and the camera body allowing the camera to be used in both portrait and landscape modes on the tripod, but to do this either the trigger trap must be inserted before the bracket is mounted, or you have to unbolt he end plate, connect the triggertrap and then re-attach the end plate. Both ways are a compromise but it does work!!!

In landscape mode there are none if these issues as the trigger trap cable never obscures the tripod mounting!
 
I too have the Sunwayfoto L Bracket (Mr Perceptive and I are joined at the hip!), although I don't have a trigger trap. I do use remote controls and agree that there is a lack of space around the door area. I have found that an old Canon remote will sit nicely in there and allow use in portrait mode. I do have a generic remote from Jack the Hat, but that has an inline connector and won't allow portrait mode at all. It just sticks out too much. I'm trying to fit my Jongnuo remotes on to the body, but find that I need a narrow right angle connector, similar to the one on the Canon remote. Ordinary right angle connectors are too large - just. I have finished up having to make a groove in the top plate of my head, but even then because the door and connector stand proud, the camera has to sit a little off centre in portrait mode.

I've come to the conclusion that I need to cut the Canon connector and cable and get a net 2.5mm connector on the end of the cable.

Messy whichever way it is done. There is not a lot of room down the side.
 
EspressoJunkie said:
Is anyone here using the Samyang 12mm?

I like to have a wide angle and can't really stretch to the 10-24.

I've used a Samyang 14mm on FF before and loved it so I'm hoping that the 12mm on the Fuji will be as good.
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I've not used it (had the 14mm before) but there are people who rave about the 12mm so I'm assuming its as good, the 10-24 is great but it does come at a price!
 
EspressoJunkie said:
Is anyone here using the Samyang 12mm?

I like to have a wide angle and can't really stretch to the 10-24.

I've used a Samyang 14mm on FF before and loved it so I'm hoping that the 12mm on the Fuji will be as good.
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I looked at the 12mm, but there are reports that it is a bit soft at times.
I read a few reports DP review/Ken Rockwell etc., but they do go into minute detail so maybe they are somewhat over the top for normal use.
There are a lot of users so that could mean anything.
I went for the 10-24 which is excellent.
 
Progrees of sorts with the shutter delay problem.

I've just been having a play and it seems that the shutter lag can be overcome by holding down the shutter button halfway before the trigger is activated. This might be of use with other applications, but for the moment my splash kit is giving collisions as it should.
 
I have the 14 and I absolutely love it. I'm buying the 16-55 f/2.8, and at some stage I'll add the 12 for astro. At that point I might sell the 14, but I love it so much.
 
I posted some pics I took early this morning in Lanzarote with my X100T on the X100 forum, happy enough with them but I know they would have been much better with my stabilised 10-24mm , I'm sorry now I didn't bring my XT1 and a tripod :(
 
chrism_scotland said:
I have to admit the "only" 16mp sensor has begun to impress me a little, I took this shot on Friday and sheer megapixels aside I'm struggling to tell it apart from an almost identical shot with the old D800 a year ago:

20151204 Bank of Scotland - Edinburgh by Chris Mitchell, on Flickr

I'm beginning to see again why the Fuji gear is so popular, for web-size are more pixels really needed?
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The Fuji shot(s) will be the ones with the "nicer" colours!

Even for prints up to A3+, 16MP is enough. For web use, 1 or 2 MP is plenty...
 
Nod said:
Even for prints up to A3+, 16MP is enough. For web use, 1 or 2 MP is plenty...
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I've got a 1m canvas on my wall taken with an old Ixus, it's one of my favorite prints even though it's only a 3MP image.

The problem with retina screens is it's easy to become pixel-peepers obsessed with sharpness and in the process we miss what actually makes an image special.
 
Yup, pixel peeping is a BAD way to look at almost any photo! Possibly worth doing when ultra critical PP such as cloning is being done but not during actual viewing.
 
bazfoster said:
Got a Meike MK320 Flash that all of a sudden doesn't want to fire when it is tilted to an angle, but is fine when left in the default straight ahead position. Any ideas why?
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Just as a follow up to this issue... Flash ended up not firing at all and TTL info was not being communicated to the flash at all. In fact it didn't even seem the camera recognised the flash was attached as the flash went into standby even when attempting to use. Anyhoo, contacted the seller 'EACHSHOT' on Amazon who suggested a reset procedure that didn't work and in the end I could send it back for repair.... TO CHINA!!!

Sod that for a laugh, so straight onto Amazon Live Chat. Obviously it was past the period I could send it back having been purchase on May 1st but with very little persuasion on my part I now have a UK returns reference to send it back for a refund.

Top marks to Amazon for their Customer Service.
 
Custom white balance for flash?
Using flash there is no listed white balance setting. Has anyone worked out how to set a custom WB for flash? Given that flash duration is minimal how do you get a reading to put into one of the custom slots?
Anyone done this or do we all just rely on changing it in LR?
 
Picked up my X-T10 yesterday.
First impressions are it's tiny! I'm coming from a FF DSLR so it's going to take some getting used to, although I'm looking forward to having a smaller camera.

The files are lovely. I had a brief dalliance with Fuji before but I'd forgotten just how nice the images that come out of these little cameras are.
 
mickledore said:
Custom white balance for flash?
Using flash there is no listed white balance setting. Has anyone worked out how to set a custom WB for flash? Given that flash duration is minimal how do you get a reading to put into one of the custom slots?
Anyone done this or do we all just rely on changing it in LR?
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I usually just shoot on auto wb. I'm shooting RAW anyway so can always be adjusted.

You could use the Kelvin settings, Most flashes should be around 5600k but that can vary with output.Which presumably is why Fuji didn't set a wb for flash. On the rare occasion I set a WB for flash I use 5500k.

Another factor which can effect the WB is whether ambient light plays a part in the shots in which case you really need gels to try and balance the light if colour accuracy is very important.
 
EspressoJunkie said:
Picked up my X-T10 yesterday.
First impressions are it's tiny! I'm coming from a FF DSLR so it's going to take some getting used to, although I'm looking forward to having a smaller camera.

The files are lovely. I had a brief dalliance with Fuji before but I'd forgotten just how nice the images that come out of these little cameras are.
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Welcome back to the land of Fooj! I barely take my FF DSLR out anymore, which is tragic really as it's a great camera. The Fooj is so much more convenient though. And cooler. Can't bling a DSLR ;)
 
Barrysprout said:
I usually just shoot on auto wb. I'm shooting RAW anyway so can always be adjusted.

You could use the Kelvin settings, Most flashes should be around 5600k but that can vary with output.Which presumably is why Fuji didn't set a wb for flash. On the rare occasion I set a WB for flash I use 5500k.

Another factor which can effect the WB is whether ambient light plays a part in the shots in which case you really need gels to try and balance the light if colour accuracy is very important.
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Thanks Colin. I've had a trawl through the Fuji forums and the same question has been asked there. Perceived wisdom is that AutoWB picks it up, but no-one is quite sure. Also no-one seems to think it's a problem. Guess I'll just suck it and see!
 
mickledore said:
Thanks Colin. I've had a trawl through the Fuji forums and the same question has been asked there. Perceived wisdom is that AutoWB picks it up, but no-one is quite sure. Also no-one seems to think it's a problem. Guess I'll just suck it and see!
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If accuracy is a requirement of the shot a colour checker passport should be used.

When you were using your Canon with flash and you selected Flash WB all it was doing was setting the camera to 5500 Kelvin and as I mentioned before that can easily be done with the Fuji (but depending on the flash output may not be correct) It will be very close to correct for flash lighting but any ambient lit parts of the shot will be off. I've never had a problem just leaving it on auto but no shot I have ever taken has had to be spot on colour wise. I will more often than not change it to an incorrect WB in post for the look I prefer.
 
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