The Fabulous Fuji X owners thread

[BacktotheFuji]

I had my Canon 5D3 and a high end rMBP on it, combined insured value in excess of £4000, my house insurance wouldn't come anywhere near that, plus Aaduki insurance covers the gear while travelling and out of the house.

I'm surprised by that to be honest. I've specified £3k for contents cover while out of the house / abroad, and it added very little cost to my policy. I do change my insurer every year to get the best deal though

 

[jimgallaher]

I've just renewed my house/contents insurance, I didn't really go too deeply into the cover as I was just about to go off on a 2 week holiday and wanted insurance in place before I left. I'll investigate it more fully when it's due for renewal.

 

[BacktotheFuji]

With regards profiles, LR does indeed apply these automatically using the RAW data. You can test this by loading the same file into the free trial of Photo Ninja which doesn't automatically correct the files. What you will see in Photo Ninja is more detail in the corners, but more distortion (as well as a slightly wider field of view).

 

[mickledore]

I had all my Canon gear on my household. Think I valued it at £7k or something like that, Included away from home and accidental cover. Cost me about £15 IIRC.
Won't be as much next time because most of the Canon stuff has gone - especially the lenses.

 

[jimgallaher]

I'm surprised by that to be honest. I've specified £3k for contents cover while out of the house / abroad, and it added very little cost to my policy. I do change my insurer every year to get the best deal though

I had all my Canon gear on my household. Think I valued it at £7k or something like that, Included away from home and accidental cover. Cost me about £15 IIRC.
Won't be as much next time because most of the Canon stuff has gone - especially the lenses.

Seriously ? Jeez I'm paying just over £100 for my Aaduki camera insurance, I'll definitely have to look further into this whole insurance thing.

 

[mickledore]

Well I've looked at stand alone policies before. They have always seemed to be phenominally expensive compared to adding it to my household cover. IIRC most policies cover up to £4k or so as part of normal cover. Of course if you use "I'mthecheapestinsurancearound.com"you might find lots of exclusions and extras to be paid for, but a fairly mainstream company should cover an amateur's gear without too much extra expense. Depends how many x series lenses you have!!!

 

[G.K.Jnr.]

Here is another sample from the 90mm @ f5.6



XT1A2319 by barrysprout, on Flickr

I'm impressed Colin, great portrait shot and that 90mm lens certainly has some bite to it.

George.

 

[domart]

I'm really tempted to move back to Fuji. I used to have xe2 with 23, 18 and 35mm lenses, I'm shooting the a7ii an a7s now with native lenses and canon glass, all I want is silent shutter and some affordable f2 equivalent lenses but they just don't exist, and where they do exist they are so damm expensive, I could get an xt1 and the 56 1.2 for around the same cost as the Sony 85 1.8, I could get an xt1 and all the Fuji prime lenses for the cost of the a7rii, rx1 is tempting but no evf and dog slow af, rx2 is insanely expensive and I really don't need or want 42mp. If the a7ii had silent shutter it would be perfect (well, other than high price of lenses), xt1 looks to be a great camera, silent shutter and good af

I also value the consistency of the Fuji lenses and how they all have aperture rings

 

[domart]

i have grown accustomed to the built in IS though and would certainly miss it going to Fuji, it's double annoying that the Sony 85mm has stabilisation in the lens which no doubt adds to the size/cost, when the body has IS anyway

 

[BacktotheFuji]

Seriously ? Jeez I'm paying just over £100 for my Aaduki camera insurance, I'll definitely have to look further into this whole insurance thing.

The other trick is to use topcashback or Quidco as a gateway through to the insurer when switching...I received a total £120.00 cashback this time around

 

[Sue21]

Good choice, I am sure you will enjoy it. As to insurance, it depends who was offering it. If you register the camera with Fuji, you might get an email from them offering extended warranty, well worth it if you are going to keep the camera a while, but generally this sort of extended insurance isn't transferable.
I bought a neoprene camera strap for mine from Amazon. It was about £16 or so, very comfortable and clips on and off. Can't remember the make but it was similar to this one..
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Neoprene-Co...9210800&sr=8-1&keywords=Neoprene+camera+strap
Never had a case, so can't help with that

Great - thanks for the info

I bought a long black Gordys strap with red cord wrap and a Gariz half case in black. IMO it makes an already great looking camera even better, plus the Gariz half case makes the grip on the camera even better.

Thanks again for reply - will look into both

You're gonna "Enjoy" that Sue, looking forward to seeing some of your shots.

George.

It may be a while before I post any here but I'm soooo looking forward to getting started

Will look into the insurance and incl looking at house insurance

Thanks guys

 

[BacktotheFuji]

I'm really tempted to move back to Fuji. I used to have xe2 with 23, 18 and 35mm lenses, I'm shooting the a7ii an a7s now with native lenses and canon glass, all I want is silent shutter and some affordable f2 equivalent lenses but they just don't exist, and where they do exist they are so damm expensive, I could get an xt1 and the 56 1.2 for around the same cost as the Sony 85 1.8, I could get an xt1 and all the Fuji prime lenses for the cost of the a7rii, rx1 is tempting but no evf and dog slow af, rx2 is insanely expensive and I really don't need or want 42mp. If the a7ii had silent shutter it would be perfect (well, other than high price of lenses), xt1 looks to be a great camera, silent shutter and good af

I also value the consistency of the Fuji lenses and how they all have aperture rings

I think it's easy to get carried away by the specs sometimes, and on paper the Sony FE system looks very good.

Hand on heart though, Fuji's is the best system I've used so far. The cameras feel great to use, look cool and the lenses are out of this world.

 

[domart]

I think it's easy to get carried away by the specs sometimes, and on paper the Sony FE system looks very good.

Hand on heart though, Fuji's is the best system I've used so far. The cameras feel great to use, look cool and the lenses are out of this world.

I had xe2's and the focussing just wasn't up to scratch, I went with Sony as I had aspirations of video, but a year later I still haven't shot any video

I wanted to try the xt1 or xt10 but sold all my lenses off before I got a better body

I like aspects of the Sony system and I like aspects of the Fuji system, my perfect camera is in the middle.

I wish the Fuji lenses were a bit faster and bigger, (1.4 equals 2.2 in full frame terms) so I'd like f1.2 lenses, and on the Sony side I want f2 lenses instead of 1.4, ideally I'd like the 35 and 85 to be the same size and cost as the zeiss 55

 

[BacktotheFuji]

I had xe2's and the focussing just wasn't up to scratch, I went with Sony as I had aspirations of video, but a year later I still haven't shot any video

I wanted to try the xt1 or xt10 but sold all my lenses off before I got a better body

I like aspects of the Sony system and I like aspects of the Fuji system, my perfect camera is in the middle.

I wish the Fuji lenses were a bit faster and bigger, (1.4 equals 2.2 in full frame terms) so I'd like f1.2 lenses, and on the Sony side I want f2 lenses instead of 1.4, ideally I'd like the 35 and 85 to be the same size and cost as the zeiss 55

The difference between an f/1.2 and f/1.4 lens is negligible IMO. Why would you want the faster lens, for slightly shallower depth of field?

 

[mickledore]

Didn't know if I should post this in here or in the "Show us your other half" thread



I don't fancy yours! by mickledore on Talk Photography

 

[jj_glos]

I had xe2's and the focussing just wasn't up to scratch, I went with Sony as I had aspirations of video, but a year later I still haven't shot any video

I wanted to try the xt1 or xt10 but sold all my lenses off before I got a better body

I like aspects of the Sony system and I like aspects of the Fuji system, my perfect camera is in the middle.

I wish the Fuji lenses were a bit faster and bigger, (1.4 equals 2.2 in full frame terms) so I'd like f1.2 lenses, and on the Sony side I want f2 lenses instead of 1.4, ideally I'd like the 35 and 85 to be the same size and cost as the zeiss 55

I assume you are more after the dof with the faster lens? I'm happy as I am more interested in the speed which remains the same.

 

[allanm]

Two XT10 questions. First, if I use the electronic shutter, the flash doesnt work. Is this correct? The flash icon appears to be greyed out or unresponsive in the Q menu with ES selected.
Second, when I take a shot with the flash ( mechanical shutter selected) using the viewfinder, I press the shutter, screen goes black, shutter fires and just before the image is played back through the viewfinder, there is a flash in the viewfinder. I don't see this using the rear screen and the flash in the viewfinder is after the actual flash has fired.
Any ideas? ( I am using the 18-55mm lens)

 

[mickledore]

First, if I use the electronic shutter, the flash doesnt work. Is this correct?

Good question, but one which I can't answer. I have found a similar problem with my X-T1. Using electronic flash I cannot get my flash units to work. No internal flash of course so I'm using Yn 622 Tx and 622 under the flash units.

Maybe someone knows the answer, it must be the same setup.

 

[Barrysprout]

Two XT10 questions. First, if I use the electronic shutter, the flash doesnt work. Is this correct? The flash icon appears to be greyed out or unresponsive in the Q menu with ES selected.
Second, when I take a shot with the flash ( mechanical shutter selected) using the viewfinder, I press the shutter, screen goes black, shutter fires and just before the image is played back through the viewfinder, there is a flash in the viewfinder. I don't see this using the rear screen and the flash in the viewfinder is after the actual flash has fired.
Any ideas? ( I am using the 18-55mm lens)

Yes the flash isn't available when using electronic shutter. Not sure about the viewfinder quirk, I didn't keep the XT-10 long enough to try flash shots.

 

[allanm]

Thanks both, it seems the flash won't work with ES then. I just fully reset the camera and the flashing in the evf still happens.
I am also getting occasional card read errors, but it's a new sd card, so I need to swap cards around to identify if it's the card or camera.
Just found someone else asking the same question about the flash in the EVF, it was about 5 months ago on Dpreview, but no one answered. The flash appears even if image review is turned off. Its pretty annoying, especially in low light when you lose your night vision for a few seconds!

 

[G.K.Jnr.]

Good question, but one which I can't answer. I have found a similar problem with my X-T1. Using electronic flash I cannot get my flash units to work. No internal flash of course so I'm using Yn 622 Tx and 622 under the flash units.

Maybe someone knows the answer, it must be the same setup.

Frank, several things worth a look.

Have you checked that the flash is fully pushed into the hot shoe. ?
Is the drive dial set to BKT, CH, or CL. ?
Is the camera in Bracketing or Continuous mode. ?
Is the camera in Silent mode. ?
"All of these will prevent the flash from firing".

Not too sure about these last two, but I have a feeling a third party flash won't fire if the camera is set to Commander mode or Suppressed flash.

George.

 

[mickledore]

George, I was playing with my water drop trigger and trying to get it to work with a mirrorless camera. I had everything set up and working properly using mechanical shutter. The only problem is that there is a slight delay in the shutter activating. This means that the water drops have done their stuff by the time the shutter goes off. I tried electronic shutter to see if that would cut down the delay at all. Flash was working just fine on mechanical but wouldn't work on electronic whichever flash mode I chose from the menu.

There seem to be two points here:-
1) Flash won't trigger on electronic shutter. Al least it won't with my set up but maybe it will with a Fuji set up. Don't think I'm going to change on the off chance.
2) There seems to be a miniscule delay between the instruction to the camera and the shutter movement. This probably is immaterial in ordinary use but somewhat crucial with drop triggers. My trigger won't adjust enough to overcome this. I have sent a message to the trigger mfgs to ask their opinion.

 

[mickledore]

I should mention that Mr Perceptive of this parish is involved in this conundrum. I'm sure he won't mind me mentioning that he has professional interests in such matters.

Watch this space

 

[Mr Perceptive]

I should mention that Mr Perceptive of this parish is involved in this conundrum. I'm sure he won't mind me mentioning that he has professional interests in such matters.

Watch this space

Well I have a lot of experience with industrial digital cameras and strobing light sources. I suspect that the answer may be to expose the camera for longer (earlier) and send the photo trigger to the light unit. I have plenty of industrial strobe controllers so I will have a play during next week.

If the camera was set to fire as the drop was released and the light set to trigger on/just before drop impact, we will get the desired result.

I like a bit of experimentation!!

 

[G.K.Jnr.]

Frank the flash is not meant to fire using electronic shutter, so everything is correct in that department..

I'm not familiar with the triggering system you have but just a thought. Is it possible to fire your units using the PC socket ? The reason I ask is that is the way I fire my studio flashes with the X-T1 and using this method I can get a full exposure (ie no focal plain shutter cut off) up to 1/250th instead of 1/180th hence there is no flash delay.

If your triggering unit does not have a PC flash socket connection then you would be able to do it this way with your unit mounted on to a hot shoe adapter and connected to the PC socket via a PC connecting lead. Almost all of the hot shoe adapters can be fired this way off camera.

George.

 

[bazfoster]

A couple from the 18-55 kit lens indoor at a kids party this afternoon. Transferred to mobile using the Fuji app then attached here

 

[mickledore]

George and David and anyone else who is interested!!

I think there are two problems here. They are not directly related to each other, but have both occurred at the same time.

The electronic shutter won't allow the flash to work. I was only trying that because the mechanical flash was firing too late. If the trigger (one of these:- http://www.phototrigger.co.uk/) can't get the shutter to move quickly/early enough then either the trigger is at fault, or the Fuji is at fault or there is some basic incompatibility between them. The trigger works just fine with my Canon 5D3 so by default the trigger must be working correctly.

The way the trigger works is that I press a button that starts the solenoid that releases the drops. This also fires the camera. The camera fires the flash trigers - Yn622 set up - and captures the action.

I can see by eye that the flash is going off after the drops have performed and can hear the shutter going off too late. I can reduce the delay between the drops dropping and the shutter activiating, but even at minimum the shutter still fires too late.

This leads me to think that there is a delay in the shutter activation. I'm somewhat naively assuming that this is always present and is built in to the Fuji system, but can't be seen on "ordinary" photography where milliseconds don't matter.

My triggers/flash units do have PC connectors so I could have a looksee at that, but I think the major problem is the delay in the shutter activating.

David's idea of having the shutter open longer and using the flash to freeze the action is a possibility; that's the way I use a separate triger to capture bursting balloons etc, but that then needs me to work in a dark room so that only the action illuminated by the flash is captured. A long exposure will capture too much ambient light.

An interesting challenge.
(Time for Dad's Army - the highlight of Saturday night TV!!!!!!)

 

[Sue21]

Update on my query re recommendation for who/how to insure my brand new XT1...I contacted my house/content insurers and they informed me that my camera will be covered at no extra cost..in the house, when out and about and when on holiday.....brill

 

[BacktotheFuji]

Update on my query re recommendation for who/how to insure my brand new XT1...I contacted my house/content insurers and they informed me that my camera will be covered at no extra cost..in the house, when out and about and when on holiday.....brill

Superb Remember there's an excess though, don't go deliberately lobbing it into a lake...just because you can

 

[BacktotheFuji]

I've still managed to avoid buying the 90/2. In fact, it's a bit long for what I tend to shoot anyway. Spent this morning planting trees and testing my 90/2 alternative - a Carl Zeiss Jena 135/3.5 with Lens Turbo II focal length reducer. This gives an effective 98/2.5 on crop, so a little bit longer and a little bit slower than the 90/2.

It was too windy for proper photos, so one for Facebook, instragram style:

Run, run, run!

And a snap to check sharpness and bokeh...looks pretty decent. A bit long though.

 

[Gsrai]

I had xe2's and the focussing just wasn't up to scratch, I went with Sony as I had aspirations of video, but a year later I still haven't shot any video

I wanted to try the xt1 or xt10 but sold all my lenses off before I got a better body

I'm not a great photographer but I have gone from an XE2 to an XT1 and from my experience the firmware 4.0 really gives the XT1 an excellent boost in usability - my trouble is that I prefer the from factor of the XE2 to the more DSLR like XT1. The XT1 is a brilliant tool but I don't love it like I do my XE2 hence why I haven't put the XE2 up for sale (and I don't plan too as long as the boss doesn't find out )

If you do go XT1 can I also recommend you look at the large grip for it, really makes the camera much easier to use.

I totally agree that for fast moving stuff the XE2 really was a pain especially with the 55-200m lens but my XT1 pretty much gets 80-90% of shots in-foucs, the fact the shots aren't quite what i want is my own fault

 

[domart]

P

I assume you are more after the dof with the faster lens? I'm happy as I am more interested in the speed which remains the same.

partly, although also for extra light gathering, I often work in really low light and 1/3 of a stop makes a difference

I like 1.8 on full frame, a 1.4 on crop acts more like a 2.2, people say it's equivalent to f2 but I shot them side by side and it's more like 2.2-2.8

 

[domart]

So what I really want is something akin to the Leica model- a small affordable lens selection and a faster/larger more expensive lens selection, the Fuji x lenses at 1.4, and a second line, for example the "Fuji x pro' lenses at f1 that sell for twice the price and are twice the size
I didn't buy a mirrorless cameras because of its size, I bought it because of the evf- if the 5d4 has an evf and ibis I would have no reason to shoot mirrorless for pro work

 

[BacktotheFuji]

If you're that desperate for light then I'd suggest you need full frame anyway. My Canon 6D blows the socks off the Fuji at high ISO, easily by more than a stop.

Interestingly I found the original Sony a7 pretty naff at high ISO due to the horrible noise pattern evident.

 

[mickledore]

If you're that desperate for light then I'd suggest you need full frame anyway. My Canon 6D blows the socks off the Fuji at high ISO, easily by more than a stop.

Interestingly I found the original Sony a7 pretty naff at high ISO due to the horrible noise pattern evident.

Being argumentative (for a change!) I think a lot of folk have gone over to Fuji and other mirrorless systems because they see good performance and light weight/cheaper outlay. But they still expect full on DSLR performance. They won't get it. They will get a good system, but if you want/need DSLR performance then get one, and don't moan that the Fuji won't deliver it. It's not designed to do so. I've decided to keep the 5D3 because there are times when I need it's performance and I'll just have to put up with the size, weight and other characteristics to get the results I want.

 

[BacktotheFuji]

Being argumentative (for a change!) I think a lot of folk have gone over to Fuji and other mirrorless systems because they see good performance and light weight/cheaper outlay. But they still expect full on DSLR performance. They won't get it. They will get a good system, but if you want/need DSLR performance then get one, and don't moan that the Fuji won't deliver it. It's not designed to do so. I've decided to keep the 5D3 because there are times when I need it's performance and I'll just have to put up with the size, weight and other characteristics to get the results I want.

Spot on. It's the old 80/20 rule. Essentially, the Fooj delivers 80% of what my DSLR can...but in a much lighter, smaller, sexier and more entertaining to use package

 

[mickledore]

Spot on. It's the old 80/20 rule. Essentially, the Fooj delivers 80% of what my DSLR can...but in a much lighter, smaller, sexier and more entertaining to use package

Thank you. I hadn't heard the 80/20 rule but it sums everything up nicely.

 

[Mr Perceptive]

David's idea of having the shutter open longer and using the flash to freeze the action is a possibility; that's the way I use a separate triger to capture bursting balloons etc, but that then needs me to work in a dark room so that only the action illuminated by the flash is captured. A long exposure will capture too much ambient light.

I'm only thinking of exposing the camera for very slightly longer, ie a pre-trigger, just to get the camera exposed, and then fire the trigger. A handful (technical term) of milliseconds should do the trick!

 

[mickledore]

I'm only thinking of exposing the camera for very slightly longer, ie a pre-trigger, just to get the camera exposed, and then fire the trigger. A handful (technical term) of milliseconds should do the trick!

Yes we are talking about fractions of a second here.
It could be solved if the delay setting could be reduced more than at present. This is controlled by a simple turn button, but the elctronics inside must be set within certain parameters and I wouldn't have a clue where to start messing with those. No reply as yet from Boss man.
Of course, if the minimum setting is "instantaneous" then it couldn't be reduced more, and the impulse that activates the shutter would need to be operated before the solenoid released it's drops. That, I assume, would be more complicated.

 

[mickledore]

Just a thought...if Boss man can't/won't help do you want me to drop the gear off with you and you can tinker to your heart's content? Are you good with electronics or not?