The Fabulous Fuji X owners thread

If it's close to being the size of the 18mm, it might be interesting.

re; the XT10, does anyone else think that the design looks badly out of proportion?

Yes, they've deepened the top panel to surround the control wheel and it just looks nasty, looks like they've made it narrower than the XT1 as well which gives it a very dumpy appearance, like a Soviet SLR vs a proper one.
 
The change in sensitivity seems to be as significant as the tracking. Quoting from The Phoblographer; "....Additionally, the built-in phase detection pixels have increased sensitivity from 2.5EV to 0.5EV."

Seen this with other cameras, can someone explain it to me in 'thick as minnnt' terms please I've never really understood it.

Ta.
 
I think its to compete with the Olympus OM-10 :)

The other issue is that we may be only a few months from the X-Pro2 and 16MP on the current sensor is starting to look a bit old spec despite the image quality we know that it has. It nudges the price point down a bit because of the competition around £750-950 for the X-T1.

Seen this with other cameras, can someone explain it to me in 'thick as minnnt' terms please I've never really understood it.

Ta.

It means improved low light focussing. The camera needs a minimum amount of light to focus so the point that it starts hunting for focus because of lack of light is around two stops better.
 
Last edited:
Seen this with other cameras, can someone explain it to me in 'thick as minnnt' terms please I've never really understood it.

Ta.

It's basically an absolute light level, measured in stops. You can often find it on old light meters. EV0 is 1 second at f1.0 ISO 100, so not very bright at all, but as sensitivity goes it's nothing. The light meters in Olympus OM4s could go down to EV -7, 2 minutes at f1! Of course they didn't AF though.
 
Just thinking about this more, and although it's better than before, the new Nikon D7200 goes down to -3ev.

Anyone know what the OMD's would focus at? My e-m10 would focus in pretty much darkness.
 
It's a dumbed down cheaper version of the X-T1 I'm not sure who it's aimed at in the market ?

Cheapest way to get EVF and tilting screen (I presume it has a tilting screen).

I would have bought one as a cheaper alternative to a second X-T1 as an additional body without a seconds thought.
 
For Firmware update do you format card in camera or on comp?
 
Just thinking about this more, and although it's better than before, the new Nikon D7200 goes down to -3ev.

Anyone know what the OMD's would focus at? My e-m10 would focus in pretty much darkness.

Looking at DP Review specs the OMD10 goes down to -5 EV, same as the D750.
 
Is -5 as is 0.5?
 
They need an option to stop the camera from working without a SD card, just rattled off loads of shots of little one and realised there's no card in there
 
They need an option to stop the camera from working without a SD card, just rattled off loads of shots of little one and realised there's no card in there
Oops that a bummer
 
Fujirumours has an Australian site with 90mm now listed with expected availability 31st July
 
So I'm off to photograph some time trialling tomorrow evening (just off my own back, nothing official) anyone have any tips for settings? Wanting to try some panning with them so would i be better using AF-C or AF-S? When I've shot motorsport before i have always stuck with AF-S with relative success.

Will probably be shooting from the opposite side of the road.
 
Anyone here with the 18-135 lens... From 100 -135 does it get stiff and can click?
 
That is lovely... Nice lens by the look of it
 
Please tell me where!

The message comes up until you start focussing, so if you miss it, quite easily to do then it doesn't re-appear until you go into playback mode.

Sorry,as you only come up when you switch the camera on,havnt notice this before
 
Mine tells me when it has no card in...

Simon, thanks. So at +0.5ev the X-T1 is still pretty poor. Having said that, never had an issue with the 23 or bazooka.

There is no way the X-T1 only goes down to 2.5 EV at the moment, having shot with the D750 (-3 EV) in similar dark first wedding dance conditions there isn't that much difference in accuracy in darkness, only speed. I'm guessing the quoted figures refer to PDAF, with CDAF going quite a bit lower.
 
There is no way the X-T1 only goes down to 2.5 EV at the moment, having shot with the D750 (-3 EV) in similar dark first wedding dance conditions there isn't that much difference in accuracy in darkness, only speed. I'm guessing the quoted figures refer to PDAF, with CDAF going quite a bit lower.
What this PDAF and CDAF pls?
 
There is no way the X-T1 only goes down to 2.5 EV at the moment, having shot with the D750 (-3 EV) in similar dark first wedding dance conditions there isn't that much difference in accuracy in darkness, only speed. I'm guessing the quoted figures refer to PDAF, with CDAF going quite a bit lower.

Wonder why they're not marketing it then? Like i said, with both the 23 and bazooka the AF has worked perfectly for me so far. (y)
 
Back
Top