Same here only use manual focus when no other way,i cant remember the last time i used it,and i am shooting in all sorts of lighting condition
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Same here only use manual focus when no other way,i cant remember the last time i used it,and i am shooting in all sorts of lighting condition
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Is anyone using an Android tablet or smartphone as a remote controller for their X-T? If so, is it worth the effort (and cost - I have a Windows phone and a Windows tablet, neither of which seem to be supported!) Android, NOT Apple (cost related) and ideally with a USB port (or at least a Micro SD slot!)
Blank_Canvas
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That's interesting to know, both my batteries are Fuji.
I should add to my comments above that when I mentioned battery life was very good, I should of added that I was shooting some very long exposures with a Lee Big Stopper at f16 which lasted several minutes on Bulb.
I should also add at this point, Calumet do a little cable release (with lock) with a mic jack, which plugs directly into the mic port on the X-T1 for about £9.00 absolute bargain. It's their own brand but works flawlessly.
Blank_Canvas
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I haven't tried this yet Nod but have tried a £9 cable release from Calumet, see above.
I keep meaning to try this out. I want to set my X-T1 up on a tripod, with an 18mm very close to a birds best and then monitor same from the iPad. Who needs a 300mm lens when you can use thus combined with the Fuji App. It's a whole new way of working.
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Moreorless
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Personally I find with my D800 the ability to quickly glance down with the camera around my neck and get a readout of ambient lighting can be very useful when say shooting on the street. Its not going to give you a fool proof reading but a lot of the time it'll give you a good estimate of the shutterspeed/aperture the camera is going to give you when shooting AV or Tv. That estimate makes it much easier to quickly raise the camera to your eye and take a shot without having to worry about the outcome.
Having the LCD screen fripped up constantly whilst the camera is around your neck doesn't seem very erganomic.
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Let me know how well it works! (BTW, I'm glad I'm not the only one who sometimes hits the wrong button and posts a quote with nowt added!!!)
Unless the light's changing rapidly, the settings are going to be pretty constant. Of course, there's always the option of setting the aperture and shutter speed manually and letting auto ISO sort the final side of the triangle.
Blank_Canvas
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Virtually all Nikon cameras have a top plate LCD which you can read the meter, so you can do this on any camera, the Df is meant to be a retro camera of 80s style so what's the point, combined with the size it's not very retro at all. It doesn't know really where to be at.
From experience, I know that if I use various permutations of ISO, Aperture and speed and even apply +/- EV what the likely exposure outcome will be. That's the appeal of the X-T1. I only need these dials and to be able to focus and I'll get a good result. That's what i'm used to, but that comes from 20 of years of using a manual camera of the Nikon 80s line.
Quite often, I'll respond to posts on my iPhone which is fiddly at the best if times so I often get things wrong on here !
From experience, I know that if I use various permutations of ISO, Aperture and speed and even apply +/- EV what the likely exposure outcome will be. That's the appeal of the X-T1. I only need these dials and to be able to focus and I'll get a good result. That's what i'm used to, but that comes from 20 of years of using a manual camera of the Nikon 80s line.
Quite often, I'll respond to posts on my iPhone which is fiddly at the best if times so I often get things wrong on here !
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srhmoto
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Same here only use manual focus when no other way,i cant remember the last time i used it,and i am shooting in all sorts of lighting condition
The lighting conditions aren't really relevant to my question
. I have a nice collection of Canon FD glass that I get a lot of pleasure (and excellent results) from using with my G6 at present. If I were to buy in to the Fuji system, the kit lens would be my only glass for a reasonable time as my pockets are not at all deep. Therefore, I'm interested to understand what the MF experience is like.Cheers,
Simon.
architectfadi
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I have used the WiFi app on my GS4 and nexus 7 and it just works flawlessly. Its free, quick to find the network and stays connected even if I don't use the camera for longer than 5 minutes. You can change all your settings through the app and you can use the tablet/mobile to do touch to focus, you will still have to press the shutter to take the picture though
trevorbray
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Blank_Canvas
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I have just tried it on my iPhone and the GF's iPad with the Fuji App. Here's how :-
1, Press WIFI button on X-T1 top plate ( assuming you haven't changed the default settings or assigned it to some other function)
2, On iPad or IPhone go to 'settings' select your camera when it displayed. Confirmed with a tick.
3. Accept it from the menu on the X- T1.
Not tried it on an Android device but I would of thought it would work the same.
I can see this becoming a very useful
Tool.
On a negative note,my horse has just done a 'bolter' in the Grand National but then again you can't win them all !
1, Press WIFI button on X-T1 top plate ( assuming you haven't changed the default settings or assigned it to some other function)
2, On iPad or IPhone go to 'settings' select your camera when it displayed. Confirmed with a tick.
3. Accept it from the menu on the X- T1.
Not tried it on an Android device but I would of thought it would work the same.
I can see this becoming a very useful
Tool.
On a negative note,my horse has just done a 'bolter' in the Grand National but then again you can't win them all !
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Bu99er about your horse at Aintree but possibly good (and bad!) news about shutter release etc from a smart device. Hopefully someone with an Android device can confirm the function works as well on them as it does on iP??s.
Just had a branewave and remembered that I have a remote release for my HS30 bridge camera but it doesn't fit the X-T.
Never mind, I don't think the 3rd party ones will break the bank. Will have a look an Amazon and at Calumet to see what the cheapest option is.
Just had a branewave and remembered that I have a remote release for my HS30 bridge camera but it doesn't fit the X-T.
Never mind, I don't think the 3rd party ones will break the bank. Will have a look an Amazon and at Calumet to see what the cheapest option is.
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Yet another duplicate. Very probably at my end since it seems to happen when I try to post using alt + S and it appears to have failed so I then use the Post Reply button in the quick reply box. Will try to modify my behaviour!
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architectfadi
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Blank_Canvas
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Get a grip !
I can vouch for the Calumet one for £9.00 it works. Just remember to specify the Jack size when you order. They do three or four variants. I went into the Birmingham branch of Calumet a couple of weeks ago and picked it up in store with the 23mm and 55-200mm. I'm still waiting for the £300 cash back. I'm sure it's on the way !
If I'm going to do a long exposure on Bulb I won't mess around with the Fuji App. Yesterday I was down on The Cobb, Lyme Regis doing some long exposures with an ND10 at f/16. I just pressed the exposure button and put the lock on. The LED gave a visual time in H:00, M:00, S:00s and kept a count of my exposure time. No more counting 'elephants' like the old days !
architectfadi
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When did you send your documents to Fuji?
Blank_Canvas
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It was about three weeks ago, I'm not overly concerned. I'm still in the time frame. In any case, just to err on the side of caution, I sent it via Royal Mail as a 'signed for' item and kept photocopies of my original receipts.
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The lighting conditions aren't really relevant to my question
Cheers,
Simon.
Hi wasn't having a go at you just agreeing with architectfadi,I know a lot of people like using other lens that's fair enought
srhmoto
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Hi wasn't having a go at you just agreeing with architectfadi,I know a lot of people like using other lens that's fair enought
Never thought for a minute that you were having a go
Simon.
Moreorless
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Generally I think a top plate LCD is one of the most underrated features in a camera these days, really one of those "you don't know what you've got till you've got it" features for me.
To me it seems like Nikon intended the Df to be a mix of a late 70's/early 80's SLR and a modern one with a basis towards using primes and shooting things like street, family etc. I don't think it was really intended to be to the FM or FE series what the modern M's are to Leica film rangefinders, hence the "fusion" rather than say the FE4 or FE-D and indeed the lack of an ultra high pricetag. Its not worlds away from say a D610 but you are looking at a different control system some may preffer, plus of course a sensor a bit more bias to higher ISO shooting and a bit of a size reduction.
The Fuji actually looks a bit more confused to me as it seems like its trying to fill a bigger hole in their lineup. The Df is really only aimed at a niche market whilst other DSLR's cater to the more general audience, the X-T1 on the other hand seems to be aimed at being Fuji's flagship with a bias towards shooting with larger zooms. I'm sure the Fuji works well for shooting in a similar fashion to the Df but it doesn't really seem ideal as an all round camera with a bias more towards action. Personally I'd say to suit that market a better way to go might actually have been to include a top plate LCD rather than the dials, something no other mirrorless system has.
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architectfadi
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This is the 3rd party battery I use:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Ex-Pro-1260...sim_ph_36?ie=UTF8&refRID=1SMWJN0W23ZNMP89NZJD
Free and quick delivery.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Ex-Pro-1260...sim_ph_36?ie=UTF8&refRID=1SMWJN0W23ZNMP89NZJD
Free and quick delivery.
architectfadi
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I miss the top screen. I also use exposure compensation a lot but the way they have implemented on the DF affects the way I shoot. So I d rather live with the no screen on top. Just saying
Never thought for a minute that you were having a go
Simon.
No problem,think I have only got a few old Olympus OM lens lying around,but got enough Fuji lens at the moment,my next one I would like buy is the 16-55 F2.8.
But not due till September now
tracybradbury
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Has anyone here tried both the X-T1 and the Nikon DF, and if you can which one did you prefer and why - I'm trying to decide between the 2?
Thank you.
Thank you.
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Yes. Df
Sensor. AF. Battery life. Lens range (that I already have).
But it's considerably more expensive and the XT1 is an excellent camera. There are just as many reasons to choose that one.
You need to try them both.
Sensor. AF. Battery life. Lens range (that I already have).
But it's considerably more expensive and the XT1 is an excellent camera. There are just as many reasons to choose that one.
You need to try them both.
I didn't bother trying the Nikon Df,mainly as i needed to cut the weight around i carry,and i like my zooms so i knew in the end i would need the 24-70mm F2.8,and i didn't think there would be that much different than the D700 i was already using.
Plus i have never seen an Df on display to even try
architectfadi
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I wanted to get the DF but when I tried my 85mm 1.4G and 35mm 1.4G the balance wasn't right for me. I am sure this will apply to the XT1 when the 16-55 F2.8 and 50-140mm F2.8 are out but at least the Fuji gives you the option of adding a vertical grip and that makes a huge difference IMO.
Blank_Canvas
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Yes, I have tried both. In fact the battery is very good in the X-T1 and you can double up with a 2nd battery in the vertical grip.
Independent tests such as the recent side-by-side comparison in Amateur Photographer magazine have revealed that their is very little difference in noticeable image quality between the X-T1 and the Df up to about 800 ISO.
I opted for the X-T1 as I wanted to reduce weight and yet carry more lenses with me. I carry a Samyang 8mm fisheye, Fuji 18mm, 23mm, 35mm, 18-55mm, 55-200mm. I'm just waiting for the Carl Zeiss Touit 50mm macro which is fabulous quality for portraits to complete my lens line up. All this plus filters, cleaning gear etc, which is very light and portable in a Lowpro Pro Runner 300 AW (All Weather) bag. Try carrying that lot around with FX lenses all day !
Optically the Fujinon lenses are all very fast and sharp. Most of them have an aperture ring.
The aperture ring is very important to me. Since I started using Nikon SLRs in the 80s, I used the aperture ring on the lens and of course the top plate controls. This for me was another major factor in deciding what route to go down.
My advice would be to anyone investing large sums of hard earned money to try both cameras out before purchasing them and get hands on. Take an SD card with you. Take a couple of images inside / outside the shop using a lens you want both at maximum and minimum aperture. Compare them on your computer at home and think about it.
Having said that, after handling the Df I knew it wasn't for me. I was already blown away by the quality of the XPro 1 and pre-ordered the X-T1 after fully researching it and speaking with Fuji HQ.
The Df is a good camera and I'm familiar with Nikon having used one for the best part of 35 years. However, if I wanted a FF I would have chosen a D4.
The two main things to consider are:
1) Full Frame or portability ?
2) Functionality of familiarity ?
Perhaps the only other thing to consider is that there isn't a perfect camera or solution out there. (For me the X-T1 comes close ). There is always another camera in development or something else on the horizon. You can procrastinate for ages, sometimes it's just better to go and make a decision and start shooting and producing images. The final decision ultimately comes down to your head or heart, preference or bias, or just what's going to work for you in the long run.
Nobody ever said buying a camera was easy!
Independent tests such as the recent side-by-side comparison in Amateur Photographer magazine have revealed that their is very little difference in noticeable image quality between the X-T1 and the Df up to about 800 ISO.
I opted for the X-T1 as I wanted to reduce weight and yet carry more lenses with me. I carry a Samyang 8mm fisheye, Fuji 18mm, 23mm, 35mm, 18-55mm, 55-200mm. I'm just waiting for the Carl Zeiss Touit 50mm macro which is fabulous quality for portraits to complete my lens line up. All this plus filters, cleaning gear etc, which is very light and portable in a Lowpro Pro Runner 300 AW (All Weather) bag. Try carrying that lot around with FX lenses all day !
Optically the Fujinon lenses are all very fast and sharp. Most of them have an aperture ring.
The aperture ring is very important to me. Since I started using Nikon SLRs in the 80s, I used the aperture ring on the lens and of course the top plate controls. This for me was another major factor in deciding what route to go down.
My advice would be to anyone investing large sums of hard earned money to try both cameras out before purchasing them and get hands on. Take an SD card with you. Take a couple of images inside / outside the shop using a lens you want both at maximum and minimum aperture. Compare them on your computer at home and think about it.
Having said that, after handling the Df I knew it wasn't for me. I was already blown away by the quality of the XPro 1 and pre-ordered the X-T1 after fully researching it and speaking with Fuji HQ.
The Df is a good camera and I'm familiar with Nikon having used one for the best part of 35 years. However, if I wanted a FF I would have chosen a D4.
The two main things to consider are:
1) Full Frame or portability ?
2) Functionality of familiarity ?
Perhaps the only other thing to consider is that there isn't a perfect camera or solution out there. (For me the X-T1 comes close ). There is always another camera in development or something else on the horizon. You can procrastinate for ages, sometimes it's just better to go and make a decision and start shooting and producing images. The final decision ultimately comes down to your head or heart, preference or bias, or just what's going to work for you in the long run.
Nobody ever said buying a camera was easy!
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tracybradbury
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Thank you Nick, I'm definitely starting to edge towards the X-T1 as I really want a more light weight camera/lenses. I did handle the DF in a shop and found the top dials a bit awkward so am going to go and try the Fuji and see how I like that, I already have the x100 and am really enjoying it, love being able to carry a camera around without all the weight.
Blank_Canvas
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Some people claim that the dials on the X-T1 are fiddly, I have quite large hands but I don't have an issue with it. It comes down to manual dexterity and practice. Most new cameras take a little bit of getting used to.
If your all ready coming from the X100 camp you will already be aware of the quality of the sensor. The X-T1 has an improved processor and sensor. You won't have any problems finding your way around the menu system.
Blank_Canvas
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I have owned an X Pro 1. If you take the speed dial and +/- EV compensation dial in isolation, operation is virtually identical.
I can understand people saying they prefer a rangefinder style to a SLR style camera though.
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Moreorless
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I use composure compensation a lot as well but I see a locking button as much less of an issue there since its not something it'll be altering quickly on the fly, far less than say ISO.
Again though I can see the logic for Nikon including a lock and Fuji not doing so since you can review images/histograms with your eye to the finder on the latter and not with the former.
Blank_Canvas
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On the Nikon models in the 1980s the +/- EV compensation dial had a lock. The X-T1 doesn't have one, but it's firm enough to move and clicks very positively into the desired position. Because of this it doesn't need a lock.
Following feedback from existing Fuji users a lock was introduced on the speed dial. This only works to lock the Aperture Priority (A) function in position. The dial rotates without engaging the lock at any other speed.
The ISO dial has a lock to keep it in position like the SLRs of the 80s. It really isn't difficult or fiddly using the top plate controls or aperture ring on the X-T1.
Following feedback from existing Fuji users a lock was introduced on the speed dial. This only works to lock the Aperture Priority (A) function in position. The dial rotates without engaging the lock at any other speed.
The ISO dial has a lock to keep it in position like the SLRs of the 80s. It really isn't difficult or fiddly using the top plate controls or aperture ring on the X-T1.
architectfadi
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The problem with the Nikon dial is not only it is locked but it sits above the ISO dial on the left of the camera. On the Fuji it is firm and on the right. It is a one handed operation and I can keep my left hand on the lens
I dont like iso on the left, doesnt make sense to me.
architectfadi
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The majority of my shooting I have ISO set to auto (up to 3200) or 200, so for my type of shooting it is only a two click operation. I do wish however that Fuji would have used the same lockable mechanism they have on the shutter speed dial on the ISO dial
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