The Fabulous Fuji X owners thread

colourofsound said:
I'm fully fruit committed, I'm afraid. At least with the App Store version of Lightroom you don't need a subscription to access the basic editing and preset saving. Apple Photos doesn't even have preset saving; even though the actual editing tools are pretty good
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Ahh fair enough then :)
 
SsSsSsSsSnake said:
A couple of friends that I cut their hair came yesterday and gave me the gift of a Fuji X100V silver with just over 2000 actuations, I couldn't believe it, so back into the Fuji.shall have to catch up a bit on here.
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Welcome back Chris. You lucky b****r. !!
 
jimmyjamjojo said:
Spotted early one morning in Asakusa, Tokyo. I'm curious about his tattoo, they're not common in Japan... He appears to have all his fingers though so I don't think he's Yakuza.

Asakusa by Jamie Moulton, on Flickr
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Unless he hasn't screwed up yet :ROFLMAO:
 
Raymond Lin said:
Fuji themselves says there will be plenty of stock. I suspect moving to China is the reason, it also explains why there is a gap of 2 extra years from the last model as they moved manufacturing, they need to train people, move/build machinery, supply line etc etc. They know the demand now and hopefully built the new factory in accordance to the demand.
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Not quite the case ;)
 
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johnty52 said:
Nick Turpin suggest settings for street 1/500th f/8 Auto ISO. [18-55 at 40mm]
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gramps said:
Easier said than done in the UK :)
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On the X100F I used to use F4 Auto ISO to 6400 min shutter speed 1/200th - semed to work pretty well. I appreciate that at 23mm focal length F4 would work quite well, but at 40mm I would have thought that F5.6 would do the job on a crop sensor, giving a further stop of light (over F8)
 
Mr Perceptive said:
On the X100F I used to use F4 Auto ISO to 6400 min shutter speed 1/200th - semed to work pretty well. I appreciate that at 23mm focal length F4 would work quite well, but at 40mm I would have thought that F5.6 would do the job on a crop sensor, giving a further stop of light (over F8)
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On my little Ricoh GRiii I am at 1/320th @ f4 and auto ISO normally.
'Snap-focus' on the GRiii helps too. :)
 
I tried 1/500th around f/8 today.

In Bath. With full cloud cover...

Didn't want to check the auto ISO :ROFLMAO:

I think once I get a bit more confident with the zone focus and distances I'll open the aperture a bit. Still fully trial and error at the moment for my second time out!
 
LeeRatters said:
I tried 1/500th around f/8 today.

In Bath. With full cloud cover...

Didn't want to check the auto ISO :ROFLMAO:

I think once I get a bit more confident with the zone focus and distances I'll open the aperture a bit. Still fully trial and error at the moment for my second time out!
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As long as the camera is correctly exposed then ISO 6400 is a breeze especially when using something like DXO PureRAW - under-expose and you start to run into issues.

IMO F8 is toital overkill for street on a 23mm lens, you may be surprised how much of the scene is in focus at F4
 
Mr Perceptive said:
As long as the camera is correctly exposed then ISO 6400 is a breeze especially when using something like DXO PureRAW - under-expose and you start to run into issues.

IMO F8 is toital overkill for street on a 23mm lens, you may be surprised how much of the scene is in focus at F4
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Yeah, I am probably being way too far on the safe side with the zone focus and aperture!

I was around the 3m mark. I'm also much less concerned with high ISO settings than I used to be a few years ago.
 
Man down, man down!

Don't know how it happened, it wasn't dropped or knocked. It happened whilst the camera was in my bag between Paris to my friend's place in London. Have submitted for a warranty repair, if they ask me to pay I'll just pay it then claim on the insurance.

0sXEl7U.jpg
 
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would welcome any advice on lens hood recommendations for the V a lot of people using the square shape, was going to order the Fuji original is it still in favour, and one other thing is a UV filter or alternative(protection filter),

this is the one im looking at​

Hoya 49mm HD Nano MkII UV​

The Hoya HD Nano MkII UV features a 32-layer, ultra-hard nano coating. It also features High Density Sharp Cut UV glass, which is 4 times stronger than normal optical glass. A UV filter prevents blue colour cast from happening. In addition, you protect your lens against scratches and knocks.
 
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SsSsSsSsSnake said:
would welcome any advice on lens hood recommendations for the V a lot of people using the square shape, was going to order the Fuji original is it still in favour, and one other thing is a UV filter or alternative(protection filter),

this is the one im looking at​

Hoya 49mm HD Nano MkII UV​

The Hoya HD Nano MkII UV features a 32-layer, ultra-hard nano coating. It also features High Density Sharp Cut UV glass, which is 4 times stronger than normal optical glass. A UV filter prevents blue colour cast from happening. In addition, you protect your lens against scratches and knocks.
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I have a pro mist filter on mine & a home made unknown square hood :ROFLMAO:
 
Raymond Lin said:
Man down, man down!

Don't know how it happened, it wasn't dropped or knocked. It happened whilst the camera was in my bag between Paris to my friend's place in London. Have submitted for a warranty repair, if they ask me to pay I'll just pay it then claim on the insurance.

0sXEl7U.jpg
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I've seen a few of these reported... It was quite common on the V so not surprising it happens on the VI too.

I imagine Fuji will fix it under warranty, but if they don't, a quick google search for "x100 OVF cracked" should give you enough ammo to change their mind.
 
jimmyjamjojo said:
I've seen a few of these reported... It was quite common on the V so not surprising it happens on the VI too.

I imagine Fuji will fix it under warranty, but if they don't, a quick google search for "x100 OVF cracked" should give you enough ammo to change their mind.
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Wow, it seems very common! Many like me have no idea how it happened too. Some had it delivered brand new with a cracked OVF even.
 
I don't do street as it's just not my thing but as I use manual lenses I just thought I'd add something to the discussion on apertures, shutter speeds and ISO's and the like. I suppose if you're using AF then there's probably a focus mode to suit just about anything these days but if using some prefocus at a distance, zone or hyperfocal technique I have a couple of thoughts.

You can of course deliberately focus on a subject or just go hyperfocal and leave it at that or you can set the camera at a distance and either stand and wait until the subject gets there or move to that distance from the subject and then frame and press the button. When doing this I often think about the aperture I should be at and then stop down one more stop just to be sure. With these manual techniques the size of the subject in the frame and the final image size and how it'll be looked at will be important. Tables of settings and distance and depth will probably state the image size and viewing distance they're calculated for and both these tables and any lens markings might get you results which wont stand up to the sort of critical close viewing we can now do with high res cameras and screens so I think it's important to think about the end result you want, what the finished picture will look like, how big it'll be and how it's going to be looked at and how critical you're going to be and to then use the most appropriate settings and technique.

I think ISO and noise and any motion blur need thinking about too when thinking about subject size in the frame, image size and viewing and if "all" you want is a whole picture viewed normally you might be less demanding than someone who wants to pixel peep and you might get away with lower shutter speeds or higher ISO's sometimes.
 
Raymond Lin said:
Anyone else having problems downloading Fuji Raw Studio?

fujifilm-x.com

FUJIFILM X RAW STUDIO | Software | FUJIFILM X Series & GFX - UK

Unique RAW development software developed by FUJIFILM
fujifilm-x.com fujifilm-x.com
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Yes 404 error
Possibly because trying from pad rather than Mac but someone posted this 20 hrs ago
I had the same issue just now, but just tried changing the "win" in the download link to "mac" and .exe to .dmg, and was able to download it https://dl.fujifilm-x.com/support/software/x-raw-studio-mac1220-p2ep21rl/XRawStudio1220.dmg

Hmm that works
 
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I am also getting a 404. It is also a bank holiday weekend in Japan, so maybe someone will fix it tomorrow...
 
Works for me using the link on my iMac
 
woof woof said:
Can anyone else see the face in Seans picture? Bottom edge, slightly left.
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I can. Looks like it’s screaming :)

Not had much of a chance to get out yet (feels like I say this a lot), but I’m pretty pleased with the Viltrox 23mm F/1.4. Noticed a bit of fringing wide open, but it’s nice and sharp, and I like how it renders. Testing it in the garden:

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And today, a rainy car picnic of sorts, by the seafront :D
DSCF9399.jpeg
 
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