The Fabulous Fuji X owners thread

Any views on the Gariz half case ? Seeing mixed reports, some issue with the base plate coming unstuck after a while ? Looks like a thing of beauty and a handy extra bit of grip for the X100V
 
Any recommendations for a belt attached pouch/case for X100F - only ones are generally too small (I like the lowepro Tahoe 20 for example) or much bigger/not belt
 
So, keeping an eye on Fuji Rumors regarding the H2s...

PASM dial instead of ISO dial, and now no SMC lever (got a FN button instead). Not sure if i`m gonna like all these changes, and may go back to XT if and when my H1 dies.
 
So, keeping an eye on Fuji Rumors regarding the H2s...

PASM dial instead of ISO dial, and now no SMC lever (got a FN button instead). Not sure if i`m gonna like all these changes, and may go back to XT if and when my H1 dies.
If I can change all three individually without having to remove my eye from the viewfinder ill be interested. Love my x-t30 but its very small and the nostalgic all manual controls slows me down too much sometimes
 
If I can change all three individually without having to remove my eye from the viewfinder ill be interested. Love my x-t30 but its very small and the nostalgic all manual controls slows me down too much sometimes

I`m not sure how it`s going to work though. Will it run through a sequencing kind of thing, or displayed in the VF? I can change mine by feel now, so hardly get it messed up, although on occasion I still do ;)
 
Does anyone know if my trusted X-Pro2 is on the way out with the following...

If I set the ISO low and the exposure long on any AP I can see a number of green dots on the image in the same locations no matter what I am taking a picture of (so long as the image is dark enough of course).

I read that sensors have this issue anyway from factory and fuji do their best to phase them out by essentially having the camera learn the dots and to instead guess the right pixel however images showing as many as 40 of these things is a bit excessive.

If I change the ISO up and set everything else to "auto" I don't seem to get them.

The pixels are acting like "hot" or "bright" pixels but seemingly disappear based on camera settings. Could this be a heat issue and as such a sensor as mentioned, on its way out? its a shame really as the camera has done sub 5k shots...
 
Does anyone know if my trusted X-Pro2 is on the way out with the following...

If I set the ISO low and the exposure long on any AP I can see a number of green dots on the image in the same locations no matter what I am taking a picture of (so long as the image is dark enough of course).

I read that sensors have this issue anyway from factory and fuji do their best to phase them out by essentially having the camera learn the dots and to instead guess the right pixel however images showing as many as 40 of these things is a bit excessive.

If I change the ISO up and set everything else to "auto" I don't seem to get them.

The pixels are acting like "hot" or "bright" pixels but seemingly disappear based on camera settings. Could this be a heat issue and as such a sensor as mentioned, on its way out? its a shame really as the camera has done sub 5k shots...

Tough to know for sure, but it's likely just read noise as opposed to actual hot pixels (hot pixels remain hot, no matter the settings). Each camera/sensor is unique, and each will have it's own map of read noise that will show up on longer exposures.

IIRC certain Fuji sensors were worse than others for this, I'm sure I saw someone mention it in a live editing stream - It was a northern lights shot.

How long are we talking? Do they increase in number gradually as the exposure time increases or is it more of a threshold where they suddenly appear?

I'd say it's not too much to ask to be able to get a usable result (i.e. 3-4 of these artifacts at most) from a 30 second exposure. If I were unable to get that, I'd send it to Fuji and get it looked at. Anything longer than a minute, I'd be expecting to do some noise reduction/spot fixing. Anything longer than 3 minutes, and I'd be taking dark frames to subtract from the image.
 
Does anyone know if my trusted X-Pro2 is on the way out with the following...

If I set the ISO low and the exposure long on any AP I can see a number of green dots on the image in the same locations no matter what I am taking a picture of (so long as the image is dark enough of course).

I read that sensors have this issue anyway from factory and fuji do their best to phase them out by essentially having the camera learn the dots and to instead guess the right pixel however images showing as many as 40 of these things is a bit excessive.

If I change the ISO up and set everything else to "auto" I don't seem to get them.

The pixels are acting like "hot" or "bright" pixels but seemingly disappear based on camera settings. Could this be a heat issue and as such a sensor as mentioned, on its way out? its a shame really as the camera has done sub 5k shots...
Try doing a pixel remap. Did it on mine after I noticed some hot pixels at high iso. Not sure which menu it is in though, can't remember off the top of my head.
 
I'm guessing that's an SP2 behind the Moggy Minor? Always fancied one of those, I had an 954cc FireBlade which I loved dearly, but I've always had a thing for Vee Twins...
Honestly Steve. I don’t know. It’s a bit too modern for me.
 
Honestly Steve. I don’t know. It’s a bit too modern for me.

The SP2 was das designed to take on Ducati in the WSB series, levelling it up with a 1000cc V-twin. Honda came, saw and conquered in the first season they ran it. Awesome bike, sounded like thunder, went like lightning, but drank like a fish, the tank range was about 70 miles......
 
Back up The Shard yet again, but my first visit in quite a while. A promising sunset fizzled out but I'm still happy with my haul

1. While it was looking promising...
State secret by Ian, on Flickr

2. I've no idea how the light managed to catch just the bridge and the one skyscraper, but it did
Copter by Ian, on Flickr

3. I've taken lots of versions of this but this is the best sky yet
Summer in the City by Ian, on Flickr

All with my X-T2 and 10-24mm
 
3 is brilliant - was this through glass ?
Back up The Shard yet again, but my first visit in quite a while. A promising sunset fizzled out but I'm still happy with my haul

1. While it was looking promising...
State secret by Ian, on Flickr

2. I've no idea how the light managed to catch just the bridge and the one skyscraper, but it did
Copter by Ian, on Flickr

3. I've taken lots of versions of this but this is the best sky yet
Summer in the City by Ian, on Flickr

All with my X-T2 and 10-24mm
 
3 is brilliant - was this through glass ?
Yes, the viewing platform is open air but only well above head height, so all shots are through what looks like a single thick pane of glass. I have a large rubber lens hood to block all reflections which always provokes comment as it looks very odd attached to the tiny Fuji but it really helps as I usually find I'm shooting at an angle to the glass
 
Yes, the viewing platform is open air but only well above head height, so all shots are through what looks like a single thick pane of glass. I have a large rubber lens hood to block all reflections which always provokes comment as it looks very odd attached to the tiny Fuji but it really helps as I usually find I'm shooting at an angle to the glass
I used to have one of those, and it really is the only way to shoot through through glass. These a great BTW. Never been up the shard, and as I'm unlikely to return to London again, I've probably missed my chance....
 
I used to have one of those, and it really is the only way to shoot through through glass. These a great BTW. Never been up the shard, and as I'm unlikely to return to London again, I've probably missed my chance....
I wondered whether a polariser would also help but I only have a cheapo one and it isn't large enough for the 10-24 anyway. So my £6 eBay hood had to do. I managed to tear it yesterday so will have to fork out for a new one (and a quick search suggests the price has doubled...). But it has been great for The Shard and on a long trip through China when I was staying in super-high hotels most of the time.
 
I wondered whether a polariser would also help but I only have a cheapo one and it isn't large enough for the 10-24 anyway. So my £6 eBay hood had to do. I managed to tear it yesterday so will have to fork out for a new one (and a quick search suggests the price has doubled...). But it has been great for The Shard and on a long trip through China when I was staying in super-high hotels most of the time.
I had one on a 70-200 when I shot Canon, it was great at zoo's to shoot through the glass.

Edit: It was on my 100-400...
Yellow Mongoose by Steve Jelly, on Flickr
 
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Any views on the Gariz half case ? Seeing mixed reports, some issue with the base plate coming unstuck after a while ? Looks like a thing of beauty and a handy extra bit of grip for the X100V
Pete ,
a bit late so probably overtaken by events but I had a Gariz case for my X-T1 and the metal plate came unstuck. A bit of EvoStick almost did the trick as I couldnt get it to lay back exactly into place.

Lovely case but..... I bought Kaza cases for the X-H1 and the X-T3 and they have no metal plates to come unstuck and are beautiful. When I got my X-100V I bought a used OB FujiFilm case off WEX and it is perfect and adds just enough extra grip.

Shame that you cannot use the lens half of the case once the WR adapter and filter is fitted but as it was only bought to protect the bottom plate it does the job.
 
I'm guessing that's an SP2 behind the Moggy Minor? Always fancied one of those, I had an 954cc FireBlade which I loved dearly, but I've always had a thing for Vee Twins...
Looks like a cbr 600 fsport (used to have one)
 
Looks like a cbr 600 fsport (used to have one)

The 600F had a long seat, the one in the picture has a split seat. It could still be a CBR600F though, as there was a mod out to make it look like a two tier seat.
 
The 600F had a long seat, the one in the picture has a split seat. It could still be a CBR600F though, as there was a mod out to make it look like a two tier seat.
The 600 F sport had a split seat from standard (mine did) and every image on google would suggest the same . The bike in the image has "F sport" written on the side of it
 
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