The Fabulous Fuji X owners thread

Nice images David, especially for the crop detail. You could use that lens for birding............... If you were to print could you remove the reflection in Charlies eye? Is it the softbox?

I bet the shutter count is rising with the young one home and a new lens, you'lll need a back up soon. I have never had kids (that I know enough). Must be great and proud for the parents documenting their development.
 
Well I'm going to do a 52 with him i think so i have a record of his first year so we can look back and see how much he has grown and changed.

The catchlights in his eyes are indeed from the softbox but i kind of like them tbh. Do you not? Charlie was shot with the 23 and Lily with the 50-140. Quite a difference in focus noise between the two but focus speed was the same.

When the TC is released it will be better and if the 100-400 is in the same league (which I'm sure it will be) then we have a seriously good combo for pretty much anything. Birding, aviation, motorsport...
 
I agree with David I like the catchlight in the eyes too
 
With the catchlights, I feel the one in Charlies left eye is too dominant IMO. But as you probably know portraits and flash is not something I'm clued up on (not clued up onything before you say:D) and if it's the intended way I can see how it works.(y) I keep an eye on the portraits section to learn some tips and it's something I may get into in time.

I'm keeping tabs on the 120-400mm, I just think the price maybe very juicy if you compare the recently released Nikon 80-400 which is £1899.00. You never know though, It could be less than the 50-140mm, wait and see I suppose, although it's been a while now from original lens roadmap and the reason I have gone to Nikon.

Was hoping to possibly buy the Sigma C or Tamron 150-600mm in the next few weeks but I have been knocked back on my season ticket finance, after using it previously. So had to spend my lens savings on the tickets on Friday. I think the Swans are the only club who ask for next season payments before the current season finishes. They probably introduced it to get peopole to renew in-case of relegation, although they are getting established in the Premier League.
 
That's the way it works though, the nearest eye to the light source will always have a bigger catchlight. I love catchlights, they're what adds sparkle to an image imo (obviously :LOL: ) but there are some ugly catchlights that can detract from an image massively. Perhaps the umbrella would have been prettier?
 
Last edited:
minnnt said:
Hmmm... I'd be a bit p***ed tbh. Mine took 4 days. Have you contacted them?
Click to expand...

Ros said:
I got mine yesterday - then got the email to advise it had been shipped today!
Click to expand...

seems there was a problem with my order! ... had a bit of a rant via e-mail so it should land in the next few days....looking forward to playing with this baby.

David, those shots are awesome.
 
Had a very enjoyable all Fuji wedding yesterday, not once did I think it was holding me back, which was a nice feeling given my last weddings were with a D750 and D600 which are superb wedding cameras.

95% shot with the 23 and 56, and a surprisingly high percentage of that with the 56. The 50-140 came out for the ceremony and speeches.

I didn't use the Electronic Shutter, but even using the MS it was great to use a genuinely quiet camera, especially in the church as I'm usually very conscious of the shutter noise during the ceremony.

The best bit...no aches or pains after! Photos in a week or so :)
 
Good to hear Chris. Having 2 bodies the same good too i expect? Wondering if I'm going to be shooting myself in the foot if i go for an x-e2 to partner the x-t1. Wish they'd hurry up with the x-t10 announcement and pricing!!! Meh.

Do you use flash at all? If so, which.
 
:mad::mad::(:(:banghead::banghead:

Been thinking all night I was set on XT1 and still think I am but £450 cheaper the XE2 pop in mind after seeing some images on here and on the net.

I believe IQ will be just the same but what about AF handling and low light.

The EVF on the XT 1 is interesting but is it worth £450 extra for that I know there other things such as faster shutter speed and weather sealed.

:coat:
 
I'm wondering if you will be able to disable the shutter dial or similar to ensure it doesn't get knocked? Having said that though, i have never knocked mine but i shoot in Aperture priority anyway and it locks at A doesn't it? Also at sync speed? No idea.

RAW at iso 100 would be a better addition!!!
 
Barrysprout said:
Agreed, it's annoying that the option isn't there. Fuji have been messing about since the start of the year trying to get tethering up and running.
In saying that, in all the years I had Canon's I only actually used tethering on one occasion, but I knew I could any time I wanted.

I did set up the Fuji software on my PC so that jpegs could be sent over WiFi to a folder which lightroom could access and display, but that was far too much faffing about.
Click to expand...

fabs said:
I might have a play with that then as it may be something I could use if need be.
Click to expand...

I found WiFi transfer pretty useless because your unable to choose which files to transfer, is all our none
 
minnnt said:
Good to hear Chris. Having 2 bodies the same good too i expect? Wondering if I'm going to be shooting myself in the foot if i go for an x-e2 to partner the x-t1. Wish they'd hurry up with the x-t10 announcement and pricing!!! Meh.

Do you use flash at all? If so, which.
Click to expand...

Two two identical bodies was brilliant, I didn't have to think at all when jumping between as they were set up identically.

I don't use flash at all, never a problem but I can just about hang in there for first dance, have to get a bit creative though.
 
Zone tracking will be fantastic if they get it working. Also interested in the eye detection - the face detection is great, but on the 56 at max aperture it sometimes leaves both eyes slightly oof. If eye detection works without messing up the face detection algorithm then it will be another plus. The more I use the xt1, the happier I am I made the jump from Pentax. I think the only thing that still niggles at me is needing the camera to be turned on to see through the viewfinder. Sometimes I like to just have a look at what the lens is seeing!
 
Cuchulainn said:
snip....I think the only thing that still niggles at me is needing the camera to be turned on to see through the viewfinder. Sometimes I like to just have a look at what the lens is seeing!
Click to expand...

I know that feeling well, the first few times I tried it I could feel my face flush slightly as I checked for a lens cap, then realised it was the thick bit at the back of the camera causing the problem.
 
Yeah, on the 35 I'll let face detection do its thing at 1.4, but the shallower DOF of the 56 means focus is definitely more critical. It's one of the reasons I prefer using the lens at 1.4 and not fully open. Eye detection might change that!
 
Going back to the shot of my Grandson from the other day, even at 1.4 the slight turn of his head was enough to make his left eye slightly oof. At f1.2 it really is a tiny slice of sharpness

Fuji XF-56 Dragonfly by barrysprout, on Flickr
 
Does this face detection really work so if I had aperture at 2.0 would the face get detected focus there snap image then there be a good blue background?

If this the case that be cool as at the moment I focus and compose
 
Barry looking at your images on Flickr they are lovely really are do you do much processing at all
 
What are OIS like compare to the ibis on OMD
 
I've not really used the face detect yet, keep forgetting it's there. I have all 4 of the keys at the back set to move the focus point from first press so it's very quick to get the point where I need it. From what everyone is saying though I really need to try the face detection. In fact I'm sure I assigned it to a function key, must go check that out but I'm the only face in the house today.
 
A couple from last week's trip to Paris

1. Towards La Defense from the top of the Arc de Triomphe (XT1 and Samyang 12mm)
17295770350_537b2fdde0_b.jpg


2. Ile de la Cite from Pont des Arts. Blurry thing is a bateau mouche. I've the same shot without it but figure it gives a bit of interest (XT1 and 14mm, ten stopper which caused a vignette on LHS so I added one on RHS to compensate)
17483141081_5c38dd7994_b.jpg
 
minnnt said:
I'd have to use it at 1.2 or I'd feel dirty. :LOL:

Chris, did you use 35/85 before with your Nikons for weddings?
Click to expand...

90% Sigma 35mm 1.4 ART in my Nikon days, I didn't find the 23mm 1.4 quite so enjoyable to use in a wedding environment (weird as I love it and use it all the time otherwise) but the 56 was just superb. The 23 is great close up, but for wider shots where you still want to blur the background a bit it's obviously not as capable as the 35 1.4 on a FF camera.

I used a 70-200 for a while, and a 105mm f2 briefly. I think the 23/56 combo would have been comfortable, and I will certainly just use those two for smaller venues, but the church and the wedding breakfast room was pretty big so the 50-140 came in use there.
 
minnnt said:
Never really felt any benefit of IBIS in the OMD. The OIS on the 50-140 stops the image dead. I doubt it is as good as that on the other lenses, but I'm sure there will be a similar effect for sure!

View: https://youtu.be/lk0YgkkS2Qk
Click to expand...
Wow that certainly does work wonder if the one on 18-135 as good anyone here with that lens?
 
rookies said:
Barry looking at your images on Flickr they are lovely really are do you do much processing at all
Click to expand...

Presuming I'm Barry (actually Colin) thanks Andrew. Because I usually only shoot RAW then yes I do a fair bit to the files. Most adjustments I do in a under a minute but sometimes I'll spend a bit of time to get what I want. As a comparison I went back to the file of my Grandson and stripped back everything I had done other than a slight crop to get rid of some writing on his T-shirt. I then applied the Pro neg std preset to the file (which is as close as I can get to what the camera jpeg would have been. Here are the 2 side by side. (my edit on the left)

View attachment 36939
 
minnnt said:
#1 is gorgeous! Any reason for having both 12 and 14 Ian? Do you have a preference? Ta.
Click to expand...

Thanks David. I bought the 14mm as my main wide angle then got the 12mm at a decent price. The 12mm is fine though it isn't quite the quality of the 14mm, but I always hanker for going as wide as possible so use it regularly. If I could find a Zeiss 12mm at a good price I would think about just having that and selling the other two. I am not really a zoom person but the 10-24 also appeals.
 
Colin,

Is this Preset already in LR? Ive not got LR I have aperture and I did try LR before but I think I might have to move over to it one day since Aperture is now dead with apple not doing anymore work on it.

I can't seem to trail it anymore since I have already done so that a bummer so I will have to buy it if I am going to get it. BTW your processing is brilliant..
 
rookies said:
Colin,

Is this Preset already in LR? Ive not got LR I have aperture and I did try LR before but I think I might have to move over to it one day since Aperture is now dead with apple not doing anymore work on it.

I can't seem to trail it anymore since I have already done so that a bummer so I will have to buy it if I am going to get it. BTW your processing is brilliant..
Click to expand...

Lightroom has a camera calibration box which allows you to select presets all named exactly the same as the Fuji jpeg presets, so from a Raw file you can see what all of the presets would have looked like. It's often a good starting point for a look and other tweaks can be made from there.

As a fuji owner you would benefit from the discount that Adobe give for discerning camera owners on their creative cloud photography package......

https://creative.adobe.com/promo/FujiFilmCCPP

Or you could benefit by pretending to have a Fuji, as they don't seem to check.
 
ianmarsh said:
Thanks David. I bought the 14mm as my main wide angle then got the 12mm at a decent price. The 12mm is fine though it isn't quite the quality of the 14mm, but I always hanker for going as wide as possible so use it regularly. If I could find a Zeiss 12mm at a good price I would think about just having that and selling the other two. I am not really a zoom person but the 10-24 also appeals.
Click to expand...

Cheers Ian. Quality as in build or IQ? I was set on the 12 then the 14 started to drop due to the 16 coming out bit now I'm wondering if i should save more money and get the 12 instead. Meh. Suppose the 14 does AF though.
 
minnnt said:
Thanks Chris. Mention it in your blog that you want them to make a 23mm f0.95 seeing as they're following you. :D

Did the 50-140 perform as expected?
Click to expand...

I'm wondering if maybe the 35mm 1.4 will be a good option where I have the space, I'm only doing a few more this year before it goes nuts next year, but the next one is at a big open National Trust park, so the 35 should be fine there.

The 50-140 was excellent, I've never really been an OIS person but it's lovely for framing, even jumping between the 56 and the 50-140 at 50 the difference is remarkable as you've shown in your vid. Obviously it's of little benefit when your subjects are always moving, but the stability when framing is nice.
 
minnnt said:
Cheers Ian. Quality as in build or IQ? I was set on the 12 then the 14 started to drop due to the 16 coming out bit now I'm wondering if i should save more money and get the 12 instead. Meh. Suppose the 14 does AF though.
Click to expand...
Build is fine. It does feel a little plasticky but not enough to bother me. It is the edge IQ where it seems to suffer when shooting at wide apertures (which I usually do). Ive the 18mm too but haven't used it in ages so the 16mm doesn't appeal. If I was starting afresh and was to get two of the 12-14-16-18 combo I'd probably go Zeiss 12 & 16. But for £200ish the Samyang is perfectly fine. I figure I can always sell it for about that much should I move on.

Processing on the first show was quite heavy but I followed a set of tutorials by a Parisian photographer Serge Ramelli and they can turn sunset shots into something a bit special (basic recipe is shadows +100, highlights -100, set the black and white points, boost clarity then try shade WB and adjust to taste)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top