The Amazing Sony A1/A7/A9/APS-C & Anything else welcome Mega Thread!

Referring to @nandbytes.

I was sitting waiting in the wings to purchase the lens he got, didn't want to jump in and step on his toes. Was very much what will be will be and left it to fate to decide if I'd have a 50 1.2.
Ahh I see, you were both wanting the one in the for sale section (y)
 
I never alter WB in camera.
I prefer doing it in post.

My thumb is now geared up for finding the rear wheel straight away :LOL:

In the end, this is the beauty of our Sony cameras - the ability to customize the camera to suit everyone's personal shooting preferences (y)
I'm the same - I use the rear wheel for exposure compensation, and predominantly use my camera in ISO Auto unless using flash. I got into the habit of having the exposure compensation on the rear wheel after my time with the Canon R6, I just find its so easy to adjust it quickly as when shooting birds against a bright sky it's often required to quickly jump up to +2 for example. The rear wheel is the easiest wheel to turn quickly I find.
 
Thanks to you I don’t have one on the way ;)
Referring to @nandbytes.

I was sitting waiting in the wings to purchase the lens he got, didn't want to jump in and step on his toes. Was very much what will be will be and left it to fate to decide if I'd have a 50 1.2.
Thanks for the courtesy :)
I'm not a 50mm fan you might have a second chance if I don't get along with it ;)
 
Speaking of customisation and auto iso, is there a quick way to switch between a fast shooting setting and a normal one on the A9? I was shooting at 1/2000 minimum shutter speed with CAF and 20fps and then to switch back to a normal setup, I turn the AF and drive mode dials then go into the shortcuts menu to revert the auto iso to default.
 
Speaking of customisation and auto iso, is there a quick way to switch between a fast shooting setting and a normal one on the A9? I was shooting at 1/2000 minimum shutter speed with CAF and 20fps and then to switch back to a normal setup, I turn the AF and drive mode dials then go into the shortcuts menu to revert the auto iso to default.
You the 3 memory settings on the PASM dial
 
Speaking of customisation and auto iso, is there a quick way to switch between a fast shooting setting and a normal one on the A9? I was shooting at 1/2000 minimum shutter speed with CAF and 20fps and then to switch back to a normal setup, I turn the AF and drive mode dials then go into the shortcuts menu to revert the auto iso to default.
As above you can use the memories on the PASM dial, but you can set up a button to Custom Reg Setting, so when you press and hold this button it toggles on all the settings you've assigned to that Custom Reg. For example, I have the AEL button set up as my Custom Reg Setting 1 and it acts as a BBF with Auto ISO, 1/2000 shutter, AF-C single point tracking, Continuous Hi and a few other bits.
 
You the 3 memory settings on the PASM dial
What would be cool would be to be able to cycle through the memory settings using the lens button for example
 
As above you can use the memories on the PASM dial, but you can set up a button to Custom Reg Setting, so when you press and hold this button it toggles on all the settings you've assigned to that Custom Reg. For example, I have the AEL button set up as my Custom Reg Setting 1 and it acts as a BBF with Auto ISO, 1/2000 shutter, AF-C single point tracking, Continuous Hi and a few other bits.
I must try that!!
 
What would be cool would be to be able to cycle through the memory settings using the lens button for example
I don't mind the mode dial, I just wish you could toggle the lock like the Exp Comp rather than having to hold the middle button whilst turning the wheel, with my sausage fingers it's a bit awkward ;)
 
These are from my regular dog walk woods.
I shoot here very often, mostly a bit dissatisfied with the results.
Today I put the camera in Mono, shot for the light.
Amazing what a small change can make as to whether you "feel it" or not.
Happier with these.

1
Into the Light by Trevor, on Flickr

2
The Glade by Trevor, on Flickr
 
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@snerkler, these are nice and so are the others on your flickr, that is one shallow DOF. I love the low angle and something I often shoot as well (the tiltable EVF on the GFX makes that a doddle :) ), but my 50mm equivalent (the GF63mm) is an F2.8 giving approx F2.2 equivalent, personally I think I prefer a slightly less shallow DOF for full car shots, buts its a very personal choice.
 
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These are from my regular dog walk woods.
I shoot here very often, mostly a bit dissatisfied with the results.
Today I put the camera in Mono, shot for the light.
Amazing what a small change can make as to whether you "feel it" or not.
Happier with these.

1
Into the Light by Trevor, on Flickr

2
The Glade by Trevor, on Flickr
Its important to me that my friends are happy so I’ll put you out of your misery and give you 2 grand for the RV
 
Its important to me that my friends are happy so I’ll put you out of your misery and give you 2 grand for the RV
Pete you’re a true friend and no mistake… are you sure you’ve not overvalued it ?
 
Lovely, my ex had an Imp. We had to put a bag of cement under the bonnet to stop it lifting at speed. Happy Days
Lol, I love good old fashioned health and safety :lol:
 
@snerkler, these are nice and so are the others on your flickr, that is one shallow DOF. I love the low angle and something I often shoot as well (the tiltable EVF on the GFX makes that a doddle :) ), but my 50mm equivalent (the GF63mm) is an F2.8 giving approx F2.2 equivalent, personally I think I prefer a slightly less shallow DOF for full car shots, buts its a very personal choice.
Thanks. It's all about the 'pop' for me, so it has to be shot wide open ;)
 
So A7C on route, lenses still being deliberated on. Thanks to all for their help so far. Hopefully last question!

What are my off camera flash options?

I’d like one flash gun and a way to trigger that off camera but also need to trigger up to four studio lights they have a 3.5mm Jack. I used to use pocket wizards to trigger them with my Nikon D850.
 
Thanks. It's all about the 'pop' for me, so it has to be shot wide open ;)

I am shooting wide open :ROFLMAO: (just not F1.2 wide open!). I think at car shows/race meets its difficult to obtain the 'pop' as we are trying to get an image of the car without humaoids in it! and therefore our framing is quite tight. Better pop can be obtained when the FOV is larger (perhaps it was whatAI Generative Fill was invented for, we can just increase the size of our canvas in post!!)

Goes off to look at Mitakon 65mm F1.4 for GFX....................
 
I am shooting wide open :ROFLMAO: (just not F1.2 wide open!). I think at car shows/race meets its difficult to obtain the 'pop' as we are trying to get an image of the car without humaoids in it! and therefore our framing is quite tight. Better pop can be obtained when the FOV is larger (perhaps it was whatAI Generative Fill was invented for, we can just increase the size of our canvas in post!!)

Goes off to look at Mitakon 65mm F1.4 for GFX....................
Yeah I know what you mean and that's the kind of pop I like too, but I also like it with shots like this. Maybe "pop" is not the right word, but it's got dimension to it and I feel as though I could reach into the photo and touch the car if that makes any sense whatsoever :LOL:

You can blame this photo, this is what started me on my whole "pop"/"3D" quest :runaway: :ROFLMAO:

NZ7_1291 by Toby Gunnee, on Flickr
 
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So A7C on route, lenses still being deliberated on. Thanks to all for their help so far. Hopefully last question!

What are my off camera flash options?

I’d like one flash gun and a way to trigger that off camera but also need to trigger up to four studio lights they have a 3.5mm Jack. I used to use pocket wizards to trigger them with my Nikon D850.
Godox is generally the way to go.

The V860iii or V1 is probably the best they have, if you need all the bells and whistles.
Both use the same Li-ion battery to give faster recharge and more shots than a set of 4 AA's.

Trigger wise, you have a few options.
Start with a Godox trigger (the flash has a receiver built in) - X Pro / X Pro ii / XT2 depending on preferences.
If you want to keep your pocket wizards then simply buy a Godox Nikon fit receiver - and plug the Pocket Wizard transmitter into that (the Godox Sony fit trigger will happily talk to a Godox Nikon fit receiver, even allowing TTL and HSS if applicable).
Actually, if you are going down this route, and have a decent Nikon fit flashgun, then you don't need to buy the Godox Flash - you could use this in a Godox Nikon fit receiver if you wished.
You could also ditch the pocket wizards, and get a set of Godox receivers - they have a sync port so can be connected to your studio lights via 3.5mm jack.
 
Yeah I know what you mean and that's the kind of pop I like too, but I also like it with shots like this. Maybe "pop" is not the right word, but it's got dimension to it and I feel as though I could reach into the photo and touch the car if that makes any sense whatsoever :LOL:

I know what you mean (sorry for the GFX image poluting this thread)


1966 Chevrolet Corvette Stringray Coupe by David Yeoman, on Flickr

I've just played with this image extending the canvas using AI Generative Fill but I did so many Generative Fills that my scratch disks became full!!!, will have other go at it at some point.
 
Yeah I know what you mean and that's the kind of pop I like too, but I also like it with shots like this. Maybe "pop" is not the right word, but it's got dimension to it and I feel as though I could reach into the photo and touch the car if that makes any sense whatsoever :LOL:

You can blame this photo, this is what started me on my whole "pop"/"3D" quest :runaway: :ROFLMAO:

NZ7_1291 by Toby Gunnee, on Flickr
It's a complex subject but to be honest I can get that look from the Tamron 28-75 G2
 
So A7C on route, lenses still being deliberated on. Thanks to all for their help so far. Hopefully last question!

What are my off camera flash options?

I’d like one flash gun and a way to trigger that off camera but also need to trigger up to four studio lights they have a 3.5mm Jack. I used to use pocket wizards to trigger them with my Nikon D850.
Godox is quite a popular option
That's what I use also with a godox trigger.
 
Thanks. It's all about the 'pop' for me, so it has to be shot wide open ;)
You can blame this photo, this is what started me on my whole "pop"/"3D" quest :runaway: :ROFLMAO:

NZ7_1291 by Toby Gunnee, on Flickr

Corvette Image with some AI Generative Fill from Adobe!!! First attempt so don't pixel peep (and Oulton Park has never looked so American, it obviously analysed the car in the image!!!)

t61WcLKh.jpg


This is big potential time bandit...................................
 
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I know what you mean (sorry for the GFX image poluting this thread)


1966 Chevrolet Corvette Stringray Coupe by David Yeoman, on Flickr

I've just played with this image extending the canvas using AI Generative Fill but I did so many Generative Fills that my scratch disks became full!!!, will have other go at it at some point.
Oooft, what a car.
It's a complex subject but to be honest I can get that look from the Tamron 28-75 G2
I'm not sure it'd have the same rendering tbh, I've shot with 24-70mm f2.8 in similar conditions and it doesn't look the same, to my eyes at least ;)
 
Corvette Image with some AI Generative Fill from Adobe!!! First attempt so don't pixel peep (and Oulton Park has never looked so American, it obviously analysed the car in the image!!!)

t61WcLKh.jpg


This is big potential time bandit...................................
Cool, I need to try that AI fill. Is that an online thing or is it part of photoshop now?
 
Cool, I need to try that AI fill. Is that an online thing or is it part of photoshop now?

It was in Photoshop Beta, but its now in the release version. I had to extend the image in sections, and then remove the clutter. All done with the Generative Fill Tool. I obviously need two things, a lens with a wider aperture and for nobody to park near or be near any vehicles I want to photograph :ROFLMAO:
 
Oooft, what a car.

I'm not sure it'd have the same rendering tbh, I've shot with 24-70mm f2.8 in similar conditions and it doesn't look the same, to my eyes at least ;)
But the 24-70 isn't a Tamron, did you know that Tamron make Zeiss lenses ? Zeiss are often referred to as having "pop", told you it was complicated ;)
 
But the 24-70 isn't a Tamron, did you know that Tamron make Zeiss lenses ? Zeiss are often referred to as having "pop", told you it was complicated ;)
I'm happy to be proven wrong and would love to see examples, but from my experimentation a lot of it's down to the aperture, some of it is lens characteristics (for example I think Smayang have more of it than most lenses) and some of it lighting. I'm yet to see an f2.8 image have the same level of pop as f1.8 or wider, but as I said I'm happy to be proven wrong and it would be interesting (y)
 
It was in Photoshop Beta, but its now in the release version. I had to extend the image in sections, and then remove the clutter. All done with the Generative Fill Tool. I obviously need two things, a lens with a wider aperture and for nobody to park near or be near any vehicles I want to photograph :ROFLMAO:
I'm going to have to give it a go now :lol: As you say, it's an issue at these places that you can't get a 'clean' shot.

I'd really like to do car and bike shoots but I don't know anyone with fancy cars ;)
 
Yeah I know what you mean and that's the kind of pop I like too, but I also like it with shots like this. Maybe "pop" is not the right word, but it's got dimension to it and I feel as though I could reach into the photo and touch the car if that makes any sense whatsoever :LOL:

You can blame this photo, this is what started me on my whole "pop"/"3D" quest :runaway: :ROFLMAO:

NZ7_1291 by Toby Gunnee, on Flickr

I'd call it separation and depth. It's like the opposite of a picture shot using M43, where everything is in the same plane and could have just been painted in 2 dimensions only.
 
Godox is quite a popular option
That's what I use also with a godox trigger.
Godox is generally the way to go.

The V860iii or V1 is probably the best they have, if you need all the bells and whistles.
Both use the same Li-ion battery to give faster recharge and more shots than a set of 4 AA's.

Trigger wise, you have a few options.
Start with a Godox trigger (the flash has a receiver built in) - X Pro / X Pro ii / XT2 depending on preferences.
If you want to keep your pocket wizards then simply buy a Godox Nikon fit receiver - and plug the Pocket Wizard transmitter into that (the Godox Sony fit trigger will happily talk to a Godox Nikon fit receiver, even allowing TTL and HSS if applicable).
Actually, if you are going down this route, and have a decent Nikon fit flashgun, then you don't need to buy the Godox Flash - you could use this in a Godox Nikon fit receiver if you wished.
You could also ditch the pocket wizards, and get a set of Godox receivers - they have a sync port so can be connected to your studio lights via 3.5mm jack.
Thanks guys some great information there.
 
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