The Amazing Sony A1/A7/A9/APS-C & Anything else welcome Mega Thread!

One thing I’ve noticed on the A1 is the strap lugs are stiff and don’t flap around like other cameras. Most people seem to prefer this according to google but I’ve found twice already that it can impede the memory card door, think I’ll remove that one.
 
One thing I’ve noticed on the A1 is the strap lugs are stiff and don’t flap around like other cameras. Most people seem to prefer this according to google but I’ve found twice already that it can impede the memory card door, think I’ll remove that one.
Yeah. They're a bit irritating. I don't use them at all. Have never removed them. Mostly because I quite like something to whinge about.
 
Yeah. I'll look into it a bit more. I'm pretty sure I've got the in camera options etc set right.

I've been using the SD/MicroSD card reader which I had to buy for the drone so I can transfer. I just prefer to plug the camera in that's all.

Okay.... So I've plugged into the USB C port on the Riii to the PC (Windows 10), switched it on and Lightroom opens on the import section :banana: That's with the camera set to 'Mass Storage' too which from what I've read whilst looking into this issue is what NOT to have it set on :ROFLMAO:

Gonna buy a decent Anker data transfer lead as it's currently using the Move Shoot Move tracker charging lead which ideally I like to keep with the tracker in the case at ALL times!
 
Okay.... So I've plugged into the USB C port on the Riii to the PC (Windows 10), switched it on and Lightroom opens on the import section :banana: That's with the camera set to 'Mass Storage' too which from what I've read whilst looking into this issue is what NOT to have it set on :ROFLMAO:

Gonna buy a decent Anker data transfer lead as it's currently using the Move Shoot Move tracker charging lead which ideally I like to keep with the tracker in the case at ALL times!
Mass storage is the correct setting to use as that makes the camera storage available to the PC as a USB drive. It may be the manual is incorrect and data transfer is only possible on the USB-C port as I notice the diagram shows using a USB-C cable for data transfer rather than the micro USB although it does mention the latter in the steps.
 
Mass storage is the correct setting to use as that makes the camera storage available to the PC as a USB drive. It may be the manual is incorrect and data transfer is only possible on the USB-C port as I notice the diagram shows using a USB-C cable for data transfer rather than the micro USB although it does mention the latter in the steps.

Even the Google and YouTube stuff have said not mass storage. But that works. And the A7 has always been set mass storage too.

As long as it works :)
 
One thing I’ve noticed on the A1 is the strap lugs are stiff and don’t flap around like other cameras. Most people seem to prefer this according to google but I’ve found twice already that it can impede the memory card door, think I’ll remove that one.
Same issue with the A7IV. I have to be careful opening the card door incase it lug gets jammed behind
 
One thing I’ve noticed on the A1 is the strap lugs are stiff and don’t flap around like other cameras. Most people seem to prefer this according to google but I’ve found twice already that it can impede the memory card door, think I’ll remove that one.

Same issue with the A7IV. I have to be careful opening the card door incase it lug gets jammed behind

I always use an L Bracket so the right attachment I remove and connect to the L bracket on that side and standard on the left.
 
I've got to say I think the 24-70mm f4 stands up well on the A1 with the extra res, really don't have any complaints (I've only shot stopped down). That being said I will look at the 20-70mm at some point as I'm finding 24mm restrictive. Won't be for a while though after this week's latest purchase ;)
 
Even the Google and YouTube stuff have said not mass storage. But that works. And the A7 has always been set mass storage too.

As long as it works :)
What are they suggesting it should be? Mass storage is specifically for this type of use and it's what the manual states it should be so I'm puzzled people could think it should be a different mode.
 
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What are they suggesting it should be? Mass storage is specifically for this type of use and it's what the manual states it should be so I'm puzzled people could think it should be a different mode.

I can't remember now. That was yesterday or this morning - Auto or MPT or something...?

Two of the videos I watched switched FROM mass storage to solve the issues they were having with connections.....?!?

This is the official blurb.

Auto:Establishes a Mass Storage or MTP connection automatically, depending on the computer or other USB devices to be connected. Windows 7, Windows 8.1, or Windows 10 computers are connected in MTP, and their unique functions are enabled for use.

Mass Storage:Establishes a Mass Storage connection between this product, a computer, and other USB devices.

MTP:Establishes an MTP connection between this product, a computer, and other USB devices. Windows 7, Windows 8.1, or Windows 10 computers are connected in MTP, and their unique functions are enabled for use.

PC Remote:Uses Imaging Edge to control the product from a computer, including such functions as shooting and storing images on the computer.
 
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First day out today with the new setup. The A1 AF is really impressive, especially compared to the Z9. Could track even the fastest flying birds with ease. Took a few thousand photos and all 99% were in focus and insanely sharp regardless of conditions.

Two minor points about the A1 body = its tiny in my hand so not the most comfortable to hold. The battery life is also much worse than the Z9 which I'm use to so that'll take a while to get use to.

One major point - buffer write speed to an SD card, whilst usable, its quite hard to get use to coming from a Z9. The Z9 writes to the compact flash type B cards insanely fast whilst I'm stuck with SD on this until a large enough type A which isn't "lens money" comes out.

The 600mm F4 GM OSS is insanely good though, no real negatives or minor points with it. The new drive motors made my Nikon 800mm F5.6E FL seem like a toy which I wasn't expecting at all. Due to the focus speed, bird in flight stuff is more down to technique than technological capabilities now.DSC04504.jpg
 
I can't remember now. That was yesterday or this morning - Auto or MPT or something...?

Two of the videos I watched switched FROM mass storage to solve the issues they were having with connections.....?!?

This is the official blurb.
I would always use mass storage where possible if it's an option, MTP/PTP can be a pain in the neck to use although with some devices (like Android ones) unfortunately they don't offer mass storage support without modification.
 
I would always use mass storage where possible if it's an option, MTP/PTP can be a pain in the neck to use although with some devices (like Android ones) unfortunately they don't offer mass storage support without modification.

As I said already, the same as I've done for the past 9 years with the A7 but a few of the video's I watched & things I read after this A7Riii thing people solved their issues by NOT using Mass Storage......

Anyway, as I mentioned above, I've got a new data USB-c cable on order as my MSM tracker cable worked for transfer.
 
As I said already, the same as I've done for the past 9 years with the A7 but a few of the video's I watched & things I read after this A7Riii thing people solved their issues by NOT using Mass Storage......

Anyway, as I mentioned above, I've got a new data USB-c cable on order as my MSM tracker cable worked for transfer.
Sure, I'm just saying in general I'd avoid MTP/PTP if possible - it's a much more limited interface whereas mass storage is very flexible as pretty much any software can see it as it's mounted as a normal drive. There must be something seriously wrong with the Sony mass storage implementation if switching to MTP/PTP is better, it's always been the opposite I've needed to do when having transfer issues.

So it sounds like the manual is wrong about the data transfer if it's working fine over USB-C and not micro USB, I was thinking afterwards they can't have certified the micro USB port as that was stopped some time ago and looking at the end of the manual there's the trademarks for USB-C and superspeed but not micro USB. Good you have a working solution at least.
 
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First day out today with the new setup. The A1 AF is really impressive, especially compared to the Z9. Could track even the fastest flying birds with ease. Took a few thousand photos and all 99% were in focus and insanely sharp regardless of conditions.

Two minor points about the A1 body = its tiny in my hand so not the most comfortable to hold. The battery life is also much worse than the Z9 which I'm use to so that'll take a while to get use to.

One major point - buffer write speed to an SD card, whilst usable, its quite hard to get use to coming from a Z9. The Z9 writes to the compact flash type B cards insanely fast whilst I'm stuck with SD on this until a large enough type A which isn't "lens money" comes out.

The 600mm F4 GM OSS is insanely good though, no real negatives or minor points with it. The new drive motors made my Nikon 800mm F5.6E FL seem like a toy which I wasn't expecting at all. Due to the focus speed, bird in flight stuff is more down to technique than technological capabilities now.View attachment 384939
What SD cards are you using as I've had no problem with mine? I'm not sure how close I've got to filling the buffer but I ended up shooting far more shots than I needed at 30fps ;)

I like the smaller bodies but maybe a grip is the way to go for you, it hold an extra battery to. I've personally had no issue with battery life, on my third day now with still over 50% left (y)
 
like the smaller bodies but maybe a grip is the way to go for you, it hold an extra battery to. I've personally had no issue with battery life, on my third day now with still over 50% left

I guess the clue is in the 'thousands' of photos taken which may not be hyperbole. ;)
 
Is there a way to show on the LCD/Viewfinder what subject (human/animal/bird) you have chosen in Eye AF? There's an icon to show whether eye AF is on or off, but I can't find one to say which subject?
 
I guess the clue is in the 'thousands' of photos taken which may not be hyperbole. ;)
Ahh yes, the clue was right there wasn't it :headbang: :LOL:

In bursts I think I got around 3000 shots on the A9II, not sure what I'll get with the A1, I guess I'll find out when I go to Silverstone later in the year (y)
 
Ahh yes, the clue was right there wasn't it :headbang: :LOL:

In bursts I think I got around 3000 shots on the A9II, not sure what I'll get with the A1, I guess I'll find out when I go to Silverstone later in the year (y)

I think I need to be more selective with the 30fps. For birds it’s amazing as I get to pick a specific photo which has the best pose for the bird due to the frame rate. I took around 6000 shots over 7 hours of time spent at my local nature reserve. The AF nailed literally every shot which I’m super happy about and the sharpness and contrast on every photo is lovely as I’m really against processing on nature snaps as it’s just not natural anymore, including false colour etc.

The burst rate is long enough for most scenarios so it’s not a huge issue to be honest. The write speed was only a limiting factor when a crow was defending its best against a marsh harrier and they were interacting for well over 20 seconds. Trying to pick the time to use the bird there without precapture just isn’t really an option. To clarify, I had a similar shot published in my local wildlife magazine so it’s literally the difference between getting “the shot” and completely missing it lol.

I don’t know whether I should just eat the cost of a 480gb exascend card and have done with it…
 
I'd almost forgotten the joys of home printing.

Lines on prints, blocked nozzles, cleaning cycles, dark prints, having to check every parameter in case something has randomly changed but in the end I'm in control of quality and I have a print in my hand in minutes and after drying it's framed and on the wall :D
 
https://www.alphashooters.com/cameras/a1/memory-cards/ this shows buffer sizes and clearing times for both types of card.
Yeah exascend isn’t on this list sadly as they use a newer larger capacity NAND chipset.

They’re cheapest and largest capacity outside of the insanely priced 620gb card from Sony which is £1200. The exascend 480gb is still a daft price at £600 but it’s easier to swallow than the Sony card
 
I think I need to be more selective with the 30fps. For birds it’s amazing as I get to pick a specific photo which has the best pose for the bird due to the frame rate. I took around 6000 shots over 7 hours of time spent at my local nature reserve. The AF nailed literally every shot which I’m super happy about and the sharpness and contrast on every photo is lovely as I’m really against processing on nature snaps as it’s just not natural anymore, including false colour etc.

The burst rate is long enough for most scenarios so it’s not a huge issue to be honest. The write speed was only a limiting factor when a crow was defending its best against a marsh harrier and they were interacting for well over 20 seconds. Trying to pick the time to use the bird there without precapture just isn’t really an option. To clarify, I had a similar shot published in my local wildlife magazine so it’s literally the difference between getting “the shot” and completely missing it lol.

I don’t know whether I should just eat the cost of a 480gb exascend card and have done with it…

The exascend 480gb is still a daft price at £600 but it’s easier to swallow than the Sony card
:eek:
 
When the A9's and A1 is set so that the shutter closes when you power off you get the warning not to leave the camera exposed to a bright light source such as sunlight, checking the manual it states

"When [Shutter When Pwr OFF]is set to [On], attach the lens cap before storing the camera. Otherwise, a strong light source(such as sunlight) may become focused inside the camera, causing smoke or fire. Even if the light source is slightly away from the angle of view, it may still cause smoke or fire when the lens cap is not attached"

Why is the camera more prone to fire with the shutter closed? Also, shouldn't there be a warning full stop as surely a light sourced focused on the sensor for long periods is not going to be good for the sensor?
 
When the A9's and A1 is set so that the shutter closes when you power off you get the warning not to leave the camera exposed to a bright light source such as sunlight, checking the manual it states

"When [Shutter When Pwr OFF]is set to [On], attach the lens cap before storing the camera. Otherwise, a strong light source(such as sunlight) may become focused inside the camera, causing smoke or fire. Even if the light source is slightly away from the angle of view, it may still cause smoke or fire when the lens cap is not attached"

Why is the camera more prone to fire with the shutter closed? Also, shouldn't there be a warning full stop as surely a light sourced focused on the sensor for long periods is not going to be good for the sensor?
I've always wondered this - it doesn't seem to make sense
 
When the A9's and A1 is set so that the shutter closes when you power off you get the warning not to leave the camera exposed to a bright light source such as sunlight, checking the manual it states

"When [Shutter When Pwr OFF]is set to [On], attach the lens cap before storing the camera. Otherwise, a strong light source(such as sunlight) may become focused inside the camera, causing smoke or fire. Even if the light source is slightly away from the angle of view, it may still cause smoke or fire when the lens cap is not attached"

Why is the camera more prone to fire with the shutter closed? Also, shouldn't there be a warning full stop as surely a light sourced focused on the sensor for long periods is not going to be good for the sensor?
I would assume it's because the material the shutter is made of could smoke or catch fire but the sensor wouldn't however I'd agree with your point that it wouldn't be good for the sensor either. It's maybe a regulatory requirement or similar that they have to warn about possible fire risks?
 
I saw a photo yonks ago of a Canon DSLR I believe, left with the lens pointing into sunlight without a cap. The lens did its job of focusing the light and managed to melt some of the mirror assembly & surrounding body.

edit: quick google throws up lots of results for this kind of thing, I think in answer to what difference it makes whether or not the shutter is open, doesn't really matter, focused sunlight isn't going to do any internals any favours!
 
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I would assume it's because the material the shutter is made of could smoke or catch fire but the sensor wouldn't however I'd agree with your point that it wouldn't be good for the sensor either. It's maybe a regulatory requirement or similar that they have to warn about possible fire risks?
Carbon fibre shutter blades?
I saw a photo yonks ago of a Canon camera I believe, left with the lens pointing into sunlight without a cap. The lens did its job of focusing the light and managed to melt some of the mirror assembly & surrounding body.
You would have thought they would just warn you to never leave the lens caps off when storing the camera - rather than to suggest it makes a difference what mode the camera is left in.
 
Years ago I used to post on the "Amateur Photographer" forum and there was a mod there who used to shoot weddings with 5D's and had no dust issues at all even though he used to leave the cameras lens off on the back seat :D

Just goes to show there are people out there with strange gear handling habits.
 
So the next question for my kingfisher shoot tomorrow is now that I have the A1 do I use the TC or not :thinking: I'll see what the setup's like when I get there and how close it is, but I'm still thinking a TC might be needed.
 
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