G.K.Jnr.
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This is why the Nikon Z 400mm f4.5 (+TC) is so darn attractive.Great lens, just a bit heavy to lug around.
When I was a Nikon shooter I questioned time and time again why they didn't do a 400mm f4, and now I'm a Sony user I've been questioning why they've not done a 400mm f4. Nikon answered my call, but it was too late, I'm hoping it's not the same with Sony.This is why the Nikon Z 400mm f4.5 (+TC) is so darn attractive.
Keeping my fingers crossed for a new Z body that'll match A7IV for AF.
I've just bought something.
And it's no a 50 year old prime.
It's not even a prime lens.
If it's a new camera then great, having no luck at the moment from me getting another one as all out of stock lol
Yep been away (still am). Will be back in September.When I was a Nikon shooter I questioned time and time again why they didn't do a 400mm f4, and now I'm a Sony user I've been questioning why they've not done a 400mm f4. Nikon answered my call, but it was too late, I'm hoping it's not the same with Sony.
Have you been away, you've not posted for a while?
Yep been away (still am). Will be back in September.
Haha yes why not.With a lot of pictures maybe?
PS.
Your bird shots in the other thread were superb.
Oh? What are you after?
I had three potential purchases in mind and I actually went to the dealer this time rather than buying on line. Actually I went to two. I went to buy one, ended up looking at something else and then went to the second to see the third, told him I'd go home and think about it and then rang back and ordered it this morning
Stock is thin on the ground though.
Made a BAD mistake in selling my Fuji X100V, so will get even another one of them or the X-E4 with the 27mm but everywhere is out of stock.
Ah. I see. I don't know enough about the differences between the various models. Wouldn't another model do?
At the moment I am thinking of just two systems to work side by side, one is I am keeping the A7 III but might get rid of the OMD5 plus lenses and get some Fuji kit again.
Dave have you seen my post in the classifieds ? Stuart can't proceed, you're welcome to it.Made a BAD mistake in selling my Fuji X100V, so will get even another one of them or the X-E4 with the 27mm but everywhere is out of stock.
Dave have you seen my post in the classifieds ? Stuart can't proceed, you're welcome to it.
https://www.talkphotography.co.uk/threads/swap-my-xt3-and-lens-of-your-choice-for-your-x100v.739080/
If you're interested i'll make a new for sale thread but be quick because i'm planning to return it today.
Toby. Was this using Animal eye af ?
Thanks DaveLovely image of Betty you got Toby.
No, just single point tracking. Animal Eye AF doesn’t work well with Betty for some reason.Toby. Was this using Animal eye af ?
Do you not use RAW?Is there any way to have two AF On buttons one programmed with Shade WB and one with Daylight. For some reason there isn't an option to do that in recall memory, or at least none I can see


Is it available in reg. custom shoot set? I’m at work at the mo so can’t check.Is there any way to have two AF On buttons one programmed with Shade WB and one with Daylight. For some reason there isn't an option to do that in recall memory, or at least none I can see
Not for sport when sending directly to an image deskDo you not use RAW?
You can do it with the dial at the top of the camera but that is too slow for my purposes. Players move from shad to sun often and quickly. The dial would be too cumbersome.Is it available in reg. custom shoot set? I’m at work at the mo so can’t check.
No I mean the re custom shoot setting where you can configure a host of different settings to one button. I have my AEL button set so when I press and hold this I have BBF centre single point AF tracking, 1/1000 shutter, f2.8, compressed raw etc etc. I’m just not sure whether white balance is one of the settings you can store but I’d have thought it was as you can configure just about every other shooting setting.You can do it with the dial at the top of the camera but that is too slow for my purposes. Players move from shad to sun often and quickly. The dial would be too cumbersome.
Another option if you just want to change WB is have it set to the rear wheel (the one you can also press to change ISO etc) like I do, then a quick rotation changes the WB and when you get used to it you can be pretty quick at changing to the WB you want.You can do it with the dial at the top of the camera but that is too slow for my purposes. Players move from shad to sun often and quickly. The dial would be too cumbersome.
I think it is iso by default. I might give that a go but it is easy to knock. I switch it off at the moment and use the left of the control buttons to bring up isoAnother option if you just want to change WB is have it set to the rear wheel (the one you can also press to change ISO etc) like I do, then a quick rotation changes the WB and when you get used to it you can be pretty quick at changing to the WB you want.
I’m not sure what function (if any) the wheel rotation is set to as default but if you don’t use/need it then maybe give this a try and see if it works for you. I’m not even sure if you can choose which WB options you have available, if you can you could then maybe just have 3 or 4 of your most used ones and then it’ll be even quicker to change.
Yes you can program a host of function but bizarrely not WBNo I mean the re custom shoot setting where you can configure a host of different settings to one button. I have my AEL button set so when I press and hold this I have BBF centre single point AF tracking, 1/1000 shutter, f2.8, compressed raw etc etc. I’m just not sure whether white balance is one of the settings you can store but I’d have thought it was as you can configure just about every other shooting setting.




Just proves that when ya get down an’ dirty. Your keeper rate goes up ...lol
A9_02229 by Toby Gunnee, on Flickr
A9_02203 by Toby Gunnee, on Flickr
A9_02140 by Toby Gunnee, on Flickr
A9_02104 by Toby Gunnee, on Flickr
Lol. Tbh there’s still a number of back focussed images when she’s running towards the camera even though the AF point is on her face when I’ve reviewed the images.Just proves that when ya get down an’ dirty. Your keeper rate goes up ...lol
Keep him on his toes Betty..
A9_02229 by Toby Gunnee, on Flickr
A9_02203 by Toby Gunnee, on Flickr
A9_02140 by Toby Gunnee, on Flickr
A9_02104 by Toby Gunnee, on Flickr
What AF are you using. I would probably either go for wide or a medium box and just see what works best. With wide if it isn't seeing the eyes it will often lock onto a shiny bit of collar or harness. If you can get Betty locked early on, think Top Gun, then it usually stays pretty well. Focus way before you are going to take the shot would be my advice. I would imagine my Lab is a bit quicker, more up and down movement and less contrast on the face and the camera does pretty well if I get a lock. The nose is often what it locks on though so a wee bit of DOF with a smaller aperture makes senseLol. Tbh there’s still a number of back focussed images when she’s running towards the camera even though the AF point is on her face when I’ve reviewed the images.
It’s very odd as every camera and lens combo I’ve had suffers the same. I initially thought it was poor AF performance of the Z7, and the A7RIV, but then I still get it with the A9ii. Now clearly it could be user error, but I’m not sure how when it’s set to AF-C and the AF point is smack bang in the centre of her face. I’ve tried all AF sensitivity levels from 1-5.
With eye-AF it’s definitely worse and it’s often her harness which is in focus. Without eye-af it’s ‘acceptable’ but there’s still a number of back focussed, again tending to be her harness which is focussed.
I’ve come to the conclusion that Betty’s face doesn’t suit AF systemsEven when she’s static eye-af struggles to find her eyes and often thinks her ears are her eyes
I have seen it sometimes jump to her harness too.
On the flip side it means the shots I do get are more rewarding as I’ve had to work harder to get them![]()
Cheers DaveGreat set Toby, Betty looking super cool.
Thanks, appreciate the adviceWhat AF are you using. I would probably either go for wide or a medium box and just see what works best. With wide if it isn't seeing the eyes it will often lock onto a shiny bit of collar or harness. If you can get Betty locked early on, think Top Gun, then it usually stays pretty well. Focus way before you are going to take the shot would be my advice. I would imagine my Lab is a bit quicker, more up and down movement and less contrast on the face and the camera does pretty well if I get a lock. The nose is often what it locks on though so a wee bit of DOF with a smaller aperture makes sense





Starting Young by Simon Wootton, on Flickr