The Amazing Sony A1/A7/A9/APS-C & Anything else welcome Mega Thread!

Good luck with it Dave. As a cancer survivor, I can recommend you be positive - it does make a difference

Just got back in now, my results came in the post, cancer free as the last op got the lot of it. One very happy bunny here now.
 
Just got back in now, my results came in the post, cancer free as the last op got the lot of it. One very happy bunny here now.
Well done! It’s a great feeling, isn’t it?
 
As you will know mate, it is the best feeling in my life.
It’s also a strange feeling. If you’re anything like me, you’ll be walking about with your head in the clouds, wanting to tell everyone who will stop and listen. For the next few weeks you’ll experience a vast array of different emotions and even survivors guilt, but you’ve won!
 
Sony hoping for increased sales... I wonder what could be coming?

 
Just got back in now, my results came in the post, cancer free as the last op got the lot of it. One very happy bunny here now.
Brilliant news, very happy for you (y)
 
Sony hoping for increased sales... I wonder what could be coming?

A7RV for sure, maybe an A7cII. Would be nice if they did something with nice styling, they could even hark back to 'their' Konica-Minolta days.
 
Dare I mention my favourite Sony camera: the petite HX90?

Pocketable, pop-up eye level viewfinder, tilting main screen, 24-720 (35mm equivalent) lens, plus more features than you could shake a stick at. Very few other cameras sit in your pocket but can give you a moon shot or a close up of a blackbird at a moment's notice...

View attachment 362028View attachment 362029
Mine lives in my pocket if I’m not carrying my more conventional full frame bodies.
Great little camera with very acceptable results
 
I found this Whitby picture in the wrong folder. I think it must have got accidentally dragged and moved.

I4qfJaD.jpg


I remember that day :D I took my A7 and Voigtlander 35mm f1.4.

Another.

K9e8IWO.jpg
 
Last edited:
1: Female Blackbird

DSC09112-Edit by Anthony Andrades, on Flickr

2: Okay not the greatest of images, but c'mon, it's a Bittern coming in to land haha

DSC09198-Edit by Anthony Andrades, on Flickr

3: Red Deer munching

DSC09284-Edit by Anthony Andrades, on Flickr

4: Red Deer 2

DSC09348-Edit by Anthony Andrades, on Flickr

5: Red Deer 3

DSC09448 by Anthony Andrades, on Flickr

6: Female Chaffinch

DSC09786-Edit by Anthony Andrades, on Flickr

7: Robin

DSC09769-Edit by Anthony Andrades, on Flickr

8: House Sparrow

DSC09779-Edit by Anthony Andrades, on Flickr
 
Great pictures Ant. Those flies must be a pita.

Thanks and yeah, Summer in a reedbed means lots of insects. The Deer were getting really annoyed and constantly flicking their ears etc. Wonderful day though and definitely the closest opportunity I've had with wild Red Deer.
 
Pav reviews the 7Artisans t2.0 cine lens.

I don't think Pav mentions it but googling tells me these lenses have declicked apertures which may be fine for video but IMO less good for stills shppting, or at least I would want a clicking aperture rather than a declicked one.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eB26kCo6z8w
 
Last edited:
Considering in dabbling with Sony again - originally a Sony shooter starting my journey on the RX10 MKI, and the Sony A6300, I then moved onto to the Nikon D500, D750, and Z6 before jumping ship to the Canon R6. Reason for considering Sony once again is the AF options. I feel that the Canon R6 has really helped me acquire focus for these crucial moments during Weddings when there is a sudden unexpected opportunity which has helped me take my photography to the next level. Reason for wanting to try Sony - even more AF options!! I still find with my Canon R6 - it will jump from once person to another during crucial moments when eyes are still clearly visible on original subject so single spot is the preferred method. The touch screen drag focus spot is great though.

Do you think I should aim for one of the newer Sony bodies to get the best 'real time' AF capabilities? Unsure what to choose - A7III which is a bit old now, A9 (again a bit old now), or A7IV - or perhaps something with a little more resolution!! What do you guys recommend?
 
Considering in dabbling with Sony again - originally a Sony shooter starting my journey on the RX10 MKI, and the Sony A6300, I then moved onto to the Nikon D500, D750, and Z6 before jumping ship to the Canon R6. Reason for considering Sony once again is the AF options. I feel that the Canon R6 has really helped me acquire focus for these crucial moments during Weddings when there is a sudden unexpected opportunity which has helped me take my photography to the next level. Reason for wanting to try Sony - even more AF options!! I still find with my Canon R6 - it will jump from once person to another during crucial moments when eyes are still clearly visible on original subject so single spot is the preferred method. The touch screen drag focus spot is great though.

Do you think I should aim for one of the newer Sony bodies to get the best 'real time' AF capabilities? Unsure what to choose - A7III which is a bit old now, A9 (again a bit old now), or A7IV - or perhaps something with a little more resolution!! What do you guys recommend?
I'm surprised at this, I thought the R6 was supposed to stick like glue. I assume you've tried the different tracking and 'stickiness' modes? If you want the best AF on a Sony body then you want the A1, but then for this price you could buy the R3 and keep all your Canon glass.
 
I'm surprised at this, I thought the R6 was supposed to stick like glue. I assume you've tried the different tracking and 'stickiness' modes? If you want the best AF on a Sony body then you want the A1, but then for this price you could buy the R3 and keep all your Canon glass.
Yes, I guess the problem is that most brides wear heavy eyelashes - I'm finding that it goes for somebody in the background instead even when you have the focus spot right over the subjects face and initiate eye AF, and it's a nightmare trying to get it to focus back on the foreground after that so you miss a lot of the action within these valuable seconds while you mess about switching your thumb back to spot AF and waiting for the lens to hunt and require foreground focus. I understand with Sony you have the option to have the AF only look for faces / eyes in a specific zone within the frame for eye AF to look for it's subject - something you can't do with the Canon R6 at the moment as far as I know (something I will put to the members in the Canon thread just to double check). Also native RF lenses with the professional 'L' badge, the lenses are bloody expensive in comparison to the wider selection of alternatives with Tamron and Sigma glass with Sony
 
Last edited:
The long and the short of it...

Sony's R1 would still, in my opinion. be a winner, if they issued a "mark 2" fitted with a slightly bigger screen and replaced the 10MP with the 24MP sensor as found in my A65s. I found it to be a useful candid camera for it's size, thanks to having the screen on the top plate instead of on the back...

Big and small at bus stop Swindon R1_00291.jpg
 
Last edited:
1: Female Blackbird

DSC09112-Edit by Anthony Andrades, on Flickr

2: Okay not the greatest of images, but c'mon, it's a Bittern coming in to land haha

DSC09198-Edit by Anthony Andrades, on Flickr

3: Red Deer munching

DSC09284-Edit by Anthony Andrades, on Flickr

4: Red Deer 2

DSC09348-Edit by Anthony Andrades, on Flickr

5: Red Deer 3

DSC09448 by Anthony Andrades, on Flickr

6: Female Chaffinch

DSC09786-Edit by Anthony Andrades, on Flickr

7: Robin

DSC09769-Edit by Anthony Andrades, on Flickr

8: House Sparrow

DSC09779-Edit by Anthony Andrades, on Flickr
Nothing wrong with those, a very nice set.
 
Yes, I guess the problem is that most brides wear heavy eyelashes - I'm finding that it goes for somebody in the background instead even when you have the focus spot right over the subjects face and initiate eye AF, and it's a nightmare trying to get it to focus back on the foreground after that so you miss a lot of the action within these valuable seconds while you mess about switching your thumb back to spot AF and waiting for the lens to hunt and require foreground focus. I understand with Sony you have the option to specify a specific zone within the frame for eye AF to look for it's subject - something you can't do with the Canon R6 at the moment as far as I know (something I will put to the members in the Canon thread just to double check). Also native RF lenses with the professional 'L' badge, the lenses are bloody expensive in comparison to the wider selection of alternatives with Tamron and Sigma glass with Sony
You can specify areas, and you can choose single point with eye af, however I’ve never used it in a scenario like a wedding or anything similar to know whether it still jumps from one person to another.
 
Yes, I guess the problem is that most brides wear heavy eyelashes - I'm finding that it goes for somebody in the background instead even when you have the focus spot right over the subjects face and initiate eye AF, and it's a nightmare trying to get it to focus back on the foreground after that so you miss a lot of the action within these valuable seconds while you mess about switching your thumb back to spot AF and waiting for the lens to hunt and require foreground focus. I understand with Sony you have the option to have the AF only look for faces / eyes in a specific zone within the frame for eye AF to look for it's subject - something you can't do with the Canon R6 at the moment as far as I know (something I will put to the members in the Canon thread just to double check). Also native RF lenses with the professional 'L' badge, the lenses are bloody expensive in comparison to the wider selection of alternatives with Tamron and Sigma glass with Sony

Can you specify a preferred face? You can with my ancient A7.
 
You can specify areas, and you can choose single point with eye af, however I’ve never used it in a scenario like a wedding or anything similar to know whether it still jumps from one person to another.
I’ve found with the R6 - even if you specify an area or zone it still goes for faces outside of that area - so not really that useful in a wedding ceremony scenario, furthermore you can’t easily switch to single spot AF easily should the zone area configuration choose the wrong face. I’m not sure if with Sony of you specify a zone would it completelyi ignore faces outwith that zone, and should that fail have a separate button for single AF? I’m just keen to try what Sony has to offer
 
Last edited:
Oh dear. That's a bit of an oversight.

PS.
Can you still specify a preferred person with newer Sony's?
You can register faces and give priority to one, not sure if that would help or hinder in a wedding photo when you’re going to shooting a variety of people, especially if that preferred face is also in the scene.
Even if you specify areas it still goes for faces outside of that area, furthermore you can’t easily switch to single spot AF easily should that configuration choose the wrong face. I’m not sure if with Sony of you specify a zone would it completelyi ignore faces outwith that zone, and should that fail have a separate button for single AF? I’m just keen to try what Sony has to offer
I’m not sure if it completely ignores other faces outside the zone tbh. You can use single point tracking with eye af and if you made tracking as sticky as possible I’d be surprised if it went on to another face, but without trying it I can’t guarantee it.

You can set the camera up so that pressing and holding a button changes to a whole other setting. For example I have the ael button set so that when I press and hold it changes to single point tracking AF, auto ISO, 1/1000 shutter and a host of other things.
 
Thinking about changing around my lenses again. I had been thinking of changing my Batis 135 for a 70-200 zoom, but have recently bought the Sony 200-600, so not sure that I really need a short telephoto zoom now.

Instead, I'm noticing that I'm getting frustrated with my wide/normal lenses. I've got the 16-35 f4, plus the 85 f1.8. In the studio yesterday I was constantly changing lenses, as often the 85 was a bit long for a full length portrait, but the 35 isn't long enough. I'm thinking that a zoom might solve the issue. I had a look in Lightroom earlier, and noticed that only around 15% of my images with the 16-35 are taken at a focal length wider than 24mm, so my thinking is to do one of the following:

1. Sell the 16-35 and 85 f1.8 and get the 24-70 GM Mk 1
2. Sell the 16-35 and get the 24-70 f4 ZA, but keep the 85 f1.8. This would also free up a little cash.

I'm torn on this, because I reads that the 24-70 GM if weakest at the 50-70 range, which is prime portrait length, and is a lot of what I do. On the other hand, I'be seen very mixed reviews of the 24-70 f4. The 24-105 is a bit out of reach, as I'd have to sell both the 16-35 and 85 f1.8, and would then be limited to a maximum aperture of f4, which is smaller than I'd like.

What are everyones' thoughts?
 
You can register faces and give priority to one, not sure if that would help or hinder in a wedding photo when you’re going to shooting a variety of people, especially if that preferred face is also in the scene.

I’m not sure if it completely ignores other faces outside the zone tbh. You can use single point tracking with eye af and if you made tracking as sticky as possible I’d be surprised if it went on to another face, but without trying it I can’t guarantee it.

You can set the camera up so that pressing and holding a button changes to a whole other setting. For example I have the ael button set so that when I press and hold it changes to single point tracking AF, auto ISO, 1/1000 shutter and a host of other things.
The pressing and holding of a button sounds like a nice feature to switch modes. Twisting the mode dial to recall settings does require a bit more concentration on the r6.

I would have expected area or zone selection to only acquire initial tracking of Faces and eyes within the box in al servo / continuous AF mode but to continue tracking of that eye or face if it leaves that zone (with AFON held down).

I think being able to specify just one portion of the frame you want Eye / Face to work is important to avoid at least somewhat focusing on people on completely different plains of focus and then struggling to get AF to reacquire. Certainly getting mirrorless cameras to reacquire AF on subjects that are closer is much harder than in DSLRs with often the need to grab the focus ring and manually help it to where it needs to be
 
Last edited:
Thinking about changing around my lenses again. I had been thinking of changing my Batis 135 for a 70-200 zoom, but have recently bought the Sony 200-600, so not sure that I really need a short telephoto zoom now.

Instead, I'm noticing that I'm getting frustrated with my wide/normal lenses. I've got the 16-35 f4, plus the 85 f1.8. In the studio yesterday I was constantly changing lenses, as often the 85 was a bit long for a full length portrait, but the 35 isn't long enough. I'm thinking that a zoom might solve the issue. I had a look in Lightroom earlier, and noticed that only around 15% of my images with the 16-35 are taken at a focal length wider than 24mm, so my thinking is to do one of the following:

1. Sell the 16-35 and 85 f1.8 and get the 24-70 GM Mk 1
2. Sell the 16-35 and get the 24-70 f4 ZA, but keep the 85 f1.8. This would also free up a little cash.

I'm torn on this, because I reads that the 24-70 GM if weakest at the 50-70 range, which is prime portrait length, and is a lot of what I do. On the other hand, I'be seen very mixed reviews of the 24-70 f4. The 24-105 is a bit out of reach, as I'd have to sell both the 16-35 and 85 f1.8, and would then be limited to a maximum aperture of f4, which is smaller than I'd like.

What are everyones' thoughts?
If 85mm is too long and 35mm too wide why not sell the 85mm and get a 50mm prime?

The 24-70mm f4 is known for corner softness/distortion, although my copy wasn’t too bad at all. I wouldn’t have thought you’d pay much attention to the corners with portraits so I don’t think it’ll be an issue, but f4 is not going to get you much subject isolation if you want that.
 
The pressing and holding of a button sounds like a nice feature to switch modes. Twisting the mode dial to recall settings does require a bit more concentration on the r6.

I would have expected area or zone selection to only acquire initial tracking of Faces and eyes within the box in al servo / continuous AF mode but to continue tracking of that eye or face if it leaves that zone (with AFON held down).

I think being able to specify just one portion of the frame you want Eye / Face to work is important to avoid at least somewhat focusing on people on completely different plains of focus and then struggling to get AF to reacquire. Certainly getting mirrorless cameras to require AF on subjects that are closer is much harder than in DSLRs with often the need to grab the focus ring and manually help it
I’d expect the opposite, I’d expect it to only focus within the specified area otherwise what’s the point of specifying an area?

Sony does offer expandable modes which will allow focus on the AF points immediately around the selected focus area. The only AF I know of that will literally follow the subject around the entire frame is tracking flexible spot, which is basically single point AF with tracking. Like the other AF modes there is an expandable version surprisingly called tracking expandable flexible spot.

I tend to use this (none expandable version) and have the AF point set to the centre of the frame. I acquire focus first then compose knowing the AF point will have tracked the subject across the frame. This way if it does lose focus do some reason or I want to focus on something else I can release focus then refocus knowing exactly where my AF point will be each time.
 
Something worth bearing in mind when buying used lenses, I’d imagine this is true for any lens that can be attached to a dock including Samyang.

 
You can register faces and give priority to one, not sure if that would help or hinder in a wedding photo when you’re going to shooting a variety of people, especially if that preferred face is also in the scene.

I’m not sure if it completely ignores other faces outside the zone tbh. You can use single point tracking with eye af and if you made tracking as sticky as possible I’d be surprised if it went on to another face, but without trying it I can’t guarantee it.

You can set the camera up so that pressing and holding a button changes to a whole other setting. For example I have the ael button set so that when I press and hold it changes to single point tracking AF, auto ISO, 1/1000 shutter and a host of other things.

Can you save more than one face and then choose your priority? I expect you can as you can with mine or at least you can with one of my cameras.

If I was doing this I'd set a custom mode with face/eye detect so it'd be easier to switch between modes, and in fact that 's how my camera is set.
 
Last edited:
New addition; he's already done a big jobby in my passenger footwell on the A9 with nowhere to pull over for ages. Was horrific. The smell. My eyes burning.

I'm still not sure I'm digging the A9. Dynamic range feels poor, very difficult to recover the white fur in this. AF is struggling to detect his eye but I'll keep at it. If it's just going to be stationary photos then I may as well swap for an A7Riv?


Beagle12.jpg
 
Can you save more than one face and then choose your priority? I expect you can as you can with mine or at least you can with one of my cameras.

If I was doing this I'd set a custom mode with face/eye detect so it'd be easier to switch between modes, and in fact that 's how my camera is set.
You can register up to 8 faces, order them in a list of priority and also alter how strong that priority is (y)
 
New addition; he's already done a big jobby in my passenger footwell on the A9 with nowhere to pull over for ages. Was horrific. The smell. My eyes burning.

I'm still not sure I'm digging the A9. Dynamic range feels poor, very difficult to recover the white fur in this. AF is struggling to detect his eye but I'll keep at it. If it's just going to be stationary photos then I may as well swap for an A7Riv?


View attachment 362251
From my experience Sony's highlight recovery is not as good as other brands, something I'm slightly disappointed in tbh. That being said, the shadow recovery is so good that in a situation like this I find it best to underexpose slightly and recover in post. The more recent Nikons I've used seem to do this by default, they underexpose a little from my experience (D850 onwards).

The A9ii struggles to find the eyes of our dog, I've mentioned this a few times and have been trying to figure out why. Our dog has dark eyes and a dark face and thought it might be this, however your dog's face doesn't have a dark face so maybe it's not this. I went to Yorkshire Wildlife Park a couple of weeks ago and found animal eye AF worked better on a number of their animals that our dog :banghead:

With regards to yours it's not something daft like you had it set to human eyes rather than animal was it? I've done that before :lol:
 
If 85mm is too long and 35mm too wide why not sell the 85mm and get a 50mm prime?

The 24-70mm f4 is known for corner softness/distortion, although my copy wasn’t too bad at all. I wouldn’t have thought you’d pay much attention to the corners with portraits so I don’t think it’ll be an issue, but f4 is not going to get you much subject isolation if you want that.
I could do, though the advantage of the zoom is that I virtually eliminate the need for constant lens changes. The 50 would help, but I suspect it would only go part way towards dealing with the hassle.

How bad is the softness on the 24-70 f4? Is it just a case of it not being great compared to competition but good against historic lenses, or is the softness problematic for landscape etc?
 
I could do, though the advantage of the zoom is that I virtually eliminate the need for constant lens changes. The 50 would help, but I suspect it would only go part way towards dealing with the hassle.

How bad is the softness on the 24-70 f4? Is it just a case of it not being great compared to competition but good against historic lenses, or is the softness problematic for landscape etc?
My copy was very good indeed imo, only just worse than the 24-105mm when pixel peeping. In fact I often regret getting rid of it as I preferred the size and weight over the 24-105mm.

I've uploaded some of my images to dropbox for you, all taken with the 24-70mm for you to look for yourself as we all have different standards, however for me it's very good and considerably better than the 16-35mm f4. They're not the greatest photos by any stretch as most are just 'grab shots' whilst out walking the dog, however they'll show what you need to see. Some are shot with the A7RIV too and I still think they stand up well even on this 61mp camera.



It is possible to get some background blur,..... in the right scenario :lol:

Sandtrooper Selfie by Toby Gunnee, on Flickr
 
Back
Top