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The IQ on those looks pretty great tbh. I downloaded DxO PureRaw a couple of weeks ago and am currently trialling it.
Is this the one you're using? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sony-SEL100400GM-100-400-F4-5-5-6-Telephoto/dp/B071RFR318?th=1
I'd need 2.8 for evening games as the floodlights are very poor.
Playing some Jazz by Rohan, on FlickrIs there a reason that you need the wide aperture such as astrophotography? If not I find the 16-35mm f4 a very good lens indeed. Obviously not as good as the 16-35mm f2.8 GM, but then it's not in the same price bracketQs for the owners - past and present - of the Tamron 17-28/2.8:
I'm torn between this and the Sony 16-35/4. (I don't know anything about the Sigma equivalent.) I'm leaning towards the fast+light benefits of the Tamron.
- Did you find the zoom range a bit limited/frustrating in real-world use?
- If you sold it on, why and do you miss it?
sparrow hawk by robb d, on Flickr
Sparrowhawk by robb d, on Flickr
Kingfisher by robb d, on FlickrI have owned a fair bunch of the UWA lenses Inc. 16-35mm f4 and 17-28mm f2.8Qs for the owners - past and present - of the Tamron 17-28/2.8:
I'm torn between this and the Sony 16-35/4. (I don't know anything about the Sigma equivalent.) I'm leaning towards the fast+light benefits of the Tamron.
- Did you find the zoom range a bit limited/frustrating in real-world use?
- If you sold it on, why and do you miss it?
It does that when I edit in Nik, had to remove it from this shot.
That could be it. I always turn that off.You have used some kind of film simulation that's adding fake neg bleed/printing and dust spots.
Qs for the owners - past and present - of the Tamron 17-28/2.8:
I'm torn between this and the Sony 16-35/4. (I don't know anything about the Sigma equivalent.) I'm leaning towards the fast+light benefits of the Tamron.
- Did you find the zoom range a bit limited/frustrating in real-world use?
- If you sold it on, why and do you miss it?
You have used some kind of film simulation that's adding fake neg bleed/printing and dust spots.
Wide for creative reasons, occasional landscape but mostly for flexibility in city mooching - including into the night. Astro ... never tried, might be fun, but not a priority. I can't justify the 16-35/2.8 on costs and weight, really.Is there a reason that you need the wide aperture such as astrophotography? If not I find the 16-35mm f4 a very good lens indeed. Obviously not as good as the 16-35mm f2.8 GM, but then it's not in the same price bracket![]()
I'd have something longer with me, too (24-105, 28-200, not sure), so it's the 2.8 aperture which is the draw. I was out with the 28mm/2.8 manual Vivitar on the A7S last weekend, and it was fast enough, with 2.8 and aperture priority set on the camera. The 16-35/4 seems to be slightly sharper in the YT reviews, but I'm trying to be swayed less by the pixels anyway. The 16/17 difference, I think I could live with - widest I've ever shot is 18mm, and that seemed plenty enough for me.I have owned a fair bunch of the UWA lenses Inc. 16-35mm f4 and 17-28mm f2.8
I found the range a wee bit short but it's a great lens still. I have owned the lens twice. In the end just decided to go with Sony 16-35mm f2.8 to complement my future tamron 35-150mm f2-2.8.
The question you need to ask yourself is if you value f2.8 more or the 16mm and 35mm ends. For me I really value having f2.8 for shooting stars and nighttime. YMMV.
With the 17-28mm I really miss the small size and non extending design.
The 16-35mm f4 renders really nicely though.
Getting really itchy feet wanting to get my bike out again but there's still too much salt on the road, to make do I've edited a couple of old photos from last year.
Thanks, lol.Superb Toby. Is it safe sitting on such a steep incline?![]()
If that's in NIK analogue pro, then you can disable the "dirt and scratches button", or use a finer filter without the "fluff" ... or adjust the strength of the effect.It does that when I edit in Nik, had to remove it from this shot.
Excellent Lee. Totally agree about Orion.Pensford Viaduct a few weeks ago with a rising 90% moon & some local light pollution actually adding to the shot!
Orion. Possibly the best constellation of the night sky![]()
Excellent Lee. Totally agree about Orion.![]()
Hi everyone. New here. Shooting with my a7riii
Haha. Those menus. Still struggle to find format every time I insert a card.That's easy for you to say but we need proof. We need you to post pictures and we need you to moan about the menu being too complicated and how much better Canon colours are![]()
Not sure the difference in sharpness matters too much unless you have ideas of buying A7R bodies.I'd have something longer with me, too (24-105, 28-200, not sure), so it's the 2.8 aperture which is the draw. I was out with the 28mm/2.8 manual Vivitar on the A7S last weekend, and it was fast enough, with 2.8 and aperture priority set on the camera. The 16-35/4 seems to be slightly sharper in the YT reviews, but I'm trying to be swayed less by the pixels anyway. The 16/17 difference, I think I could live with - widest I've ever shot is 18mm, and that seemed plenty enough for me.
Until recently I had a similar setupBuying the 28-200mm for a 2 lens solution seems to have awakened my GAS. Because the Tamron is so good I am also thinking about the 17-28mm and selling the Tokina 20mm, Sony 35mm and 85mm lenses. I have never been a prime shooter (apart from macro obviously) so it would make a lot of sense to just have 3 zooms.
If that's in NIK analogue pro, then you can disable the "dirt and scratches button", or use a finer filter without the "fluff" ... or adjust the strength of the effect.
17-28 & 28-200 have been a great pairing for me as they pretty much cover everything I need on a day out. Recently sold my A7III though so need to decide if I'm sticking with a crop sensor and part with some lenses or maybe get an A7C .Not sure the difference in sharpness matters too much unless you have ideas of buying A7R bodies.
Well sounds like 17-28mm is the lens for you.
Until recently I had a similar setup
17-28mm, 28-200mm, 200-600mm, 35/1.4 and 85/1.4.
Plan on moving to just using 3 lenses for my trips 16-35mm/2.8, 35-150mm and 200-600mm.
I'll keep the two primes for other stuff but they won't travel very far with me.
My A9 brings it up with one button press....you could do the sameHaha. Those menus. Still struggle to find format every time I insert a card.
Hi everyone. New here. Shooting with my a7riii
Set up your most used settings in the mymenu list, much easier to find things. I've then set up a button as a short cut to my menu.Haha. Those menus. Still struggle to find format every time I insert a card.
You can do it as shown above, however it does seem to degrade the image quality quite a bit, you know, with this being a photography forum and allQuestion how do we add a photo to a post?

Instead the Q2/Q2M/M9 - I took a pair of Sony A1 last night, along with 24GM/35GM/50ZA/85GM/135GM - my back was not thankful.
Full set (40 photos)
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