The Amazing Sony A1/A7/A9/APS-C & Anything else welcome Mega Thread!

Mike.P said:
Yet there are other things on both that are not on the Sony.

Swings and roundabouts but all have a place.
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Not so sure about the Z9 tbh. May be that's just my bias against the form factor.

R5 is really good nothing like it on Sony's line up.
 
The 24mm f2.8 G seems to take a kicking in some corners of the net but I've been impressed. I can't really get out and about at the mo so test shots have been limited to at home or near, here's some more...

Bokeh looks quite nice at f2.8 for a 24mm imo.

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I think it's sharp all over from wide open. I took the following with the sun in the frame in the upper right, I focused about 1/3 the way in at f8. There's no top right crop here as the sky was blown out by the sun, also keep in mind that the posting process may mangle these a bit but on my screen there's really no worry about any significant optical nasties at any aperture.

Top left at 100%.

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Bottom left.

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Bottom right.

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Without corrections there is pretty epic barrel distortion that people may want to retain for effect or correct. I see no real disadvantage in applying the corrections, you do lose a bit of width but this lens is reportedly wider than 24mm anyway. I've seen people wondering how this lens compares to film era 24's, to me there's no comparison to any of the (er... think about it and count them up) 6 film era 24mm's I have, the Sony is just in another class except for barrel distortion which IMO isn't an issue in corrected files.

This lens wont attract people who want f1.x or have an objection to corrections being needed but as a compact and light 24mm I can't complain.

PS.
Resistance to flare and ghosting seem to be very good.
 
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Merlin5 said:
Thanks. I've never seen a movie premiere in the flesh, let alone with a good camera in my hand, so it was a real first for me, fortunate timing and great fun. :)
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I don't know who any of them are but your pictures look good enough to me to have been taken by a tog there to take this sort of thing :D
 
snerkler said:
It's a bit different to that setting, better known as diorama and miniature (If we're talking the same thing), but both are used to create more subject isolation, or at least the illusion of that. Diorama uses blurring at the top and bottom of the frame which gives more 'pop' but also giving a toy/model like appearance. Tilt shift lenses can give the same effect.

With Brenizer you take a regular shot with a wide aperture lens, then without moving focus take several shots, usually in a kind of spiral manner from the centre and then stitch in photoshop (or similar). The effect is similar to a much faster lens giving more shallow DOF and a bit of a miniature appearance. So for example you can make an f1.8 lens look like an f0.95, at least in terms of DOF.
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I've only done this a few times, the point for me being to use a longer lens such as a 85mm at f1.8 to capture more of the scene so you get the DoF effect of a 85mm f1.8 but the FoV view of a much wider lens.
 
Quiet here. Too quiet.

Oh well.

I've just loaded Windows 11 with no probs. My sister said to took ages but it fair flew through for me but I had to delete all the extensions for raw files in regedit to just show generic icons rather than thumbnails as that's how I prefer them, I only want to see thumbnails of jpegs and tiffs.

A7 and that 24mm f2.8 at f8.

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mav said:
I would go for the r5 if they had a lens the same as the Sony 200-600 , The Sigma 150 600 is good Lens but its Pants for bif shots
I am hoping the A9 mk3 if there is one will have More. mp and bird eye Af
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To be honest the 200-60mm was the only reason I bought the a9. I had the R5 for a weekend on loan and it worked very well with my 150-600mm Sport though. Even better was the 100-400mm MKII but it's a bit short for BIF ... although I suppose it evens up with the extra MP on the Canon.

As a side note I had an email from Canon today saying they are releasing a new firmware for the R5/R6/IDXIII in which they are significantly upgrading the AF to include cars and suchlike taken from the R3. Hoping the R3 release lowers the R5 price a bit as I still have my Canon lenses
 
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mav said:
I would go for the r5 if they had a lens the same as the Sony 200-600 , The Sigma 150 600 is good Lens but its Pants for bif shots
I am hoping the A9 mk3 if there is one will have More. mp and bird eye Af
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Mike.P said:
To be honest the 200-60mm was the only reason I bought the a9. I had the R5 for a weekend on loan and it worked very well with my 150-600mm Sport though. Even better was the 100-400mm MKII but it's a bit short for BIF ... although I suppose it evens up with the extra MP on the Canon.
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Lenses are certainly the main reason I stuck with Sony. Not just 200-600mm but also the 35GM, 85DN (and to some extent 20G, 24GM, 70-180mm and now 70-200GMii).

Mike.P said:
As a side note I had an email from Canon today saying they are releasing a new firmware for the R5/R6/IDXIII in which they are significantly upgrading the AF to include cars and suchlike taken from the R3. Hoping the R3 release lowers the R5 price a bit as I still have my Canon lenses
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I don't think R3 will have any affect on R5's price :(
 
mav said:
I would go for the r5 if they had a lens the same as the Sony 200-600 , The Sigma 150 600 is good Lens but its Pants for bif shots
I am hoping the A9 mk3 if there is one will have More. mp and bird eye Af
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The two lenses I miss most moving to canon from Sony are the 24 1.4 GM (Amazing lens) and the 135 GM, I’m even contemplating picking up a Sony body to go along with my R5 so I can use those two lenses again. Suppose I could switch back to Sony with the A1, that way I’m gaining MP but also not losing out on a pro body.

I rented the 200-600 for 7 days last year but found myself struggling to use it as it was my first time using such a focal length, it is superb though.
 
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nandbytes said:
Lenses are certainly the main reason I stuck with Sony. Not just 200-600mm but also the 35GM, 85DN (and to some extent 20G, 24GM, 70-180mm and now 70-200GMii).
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It's not the lens line up per se that puts me off Canon, but the price.
 
snerkler said:
It's not the lens line up per se that puts me off Canon, but the price.
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Price is certainly high but there is also no equivalent to the lenses I mentioned. So even if I am ready to pay for them they don't exist.

Only one that does exist is the RF70-200/2.8 and it's not even that good :-/
 
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I’m constantly researching gear. Don’t need anything at all. My Sony setup does all I need. Love the 35 & 50 GM’s. Hasn’t stopped me adding other systems... I gotta get real.
 
trevorbray said:
I’m constantly researching gear. Don’t need anything at all. My Sony setup does all I need. Love the 35 & 50 GM’s. Hasn’t stopped me adding other systems... I gotta get real.
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It never ends!
but buying the A1 has totally killed my finances and I can't really try much else now :(
 
I'd quite like an A7RIIIa, but not really that bothered. Also need to get the shutter button sorted on the A7III.

The 50 1.2 would be nice, but it's so far outside what I'll spend that it doesn't matter.
 
trevorbray said:
I’m constantly researching gear. Don’t need anything at all. My Sony setup does all I need. Love the 35 & 50 GM’s. Hasn’t stopped me adding other systems... I gotta get real.
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Part of the fun for me is trying out new stuff, and I personally don't see an issue with that. I'm under no illusion it's going to make me a better photographer ;)
 
snerkler said:
Part of the fun for me is trying out new stuff, and I personally don't see an issue with that. I'm under no illusion it's going to make me a better photographer ;)
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I see you have bought your m43 stuff again.
been trying to get hold of a GM5.... its taking a while :(
 
nandbytes said:
I see you have bought your m43 stuff again.
been trying to get hold of a GM5.... its taking a while :(
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You might have to do what I did, if possible, buy whatever you can find and have it repaired. My total bill was £245 which is I think ok considering what these can go for.
 
And a PS.

If looking at the GM5 I do think that you shouldn't discount the GX80 as although it is a bit bigger it's also a better camera and can often be found cheaper than what GM5's go for.
 
woof woof said:
And a PS.

If looking at the GM5 I do think that you shouldn't discount the GX80 as although it is a bit bigger it's also a better camera and can often be found cheaper than what GM5's go for.
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its a fair bit bigger though and nearly twice the weight.
Might as well keep my A7C.
 
snerkler said:
Part of the fun for me is trying out new stuff, and I personally don't see an issue with that. I'm under no illusion it's going to make me a better photographer ;)
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My new stuff enjoyment comes from cheap old film era primes but I am trying to stop buying them. I do love using them though but I'm spoilt for choice now and it takes me an age to get through them in rotation :D

My new gear lust now is either a Sony 40mm or 50mm f2.5 as I've been impressed with the 24mm as it's so good but also tiny and just about weightless.
 
nandbytes said:
its a fair bit bigger though and nearly twice the weight.
Might as well keep my A7C.
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But if you're going into a dodgy place with a GX80 and a tiny lens like the 20mm f1.7 or 14mm f2.5 you're going in with kit costing about £300 but the A7c and lens costs how much? A lot more. Could another choice be one of those small EVF-less Sony APS-C bodies?
 
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snerkler said:
Part of the fun for me is trying out new stuff, and I personally don't see an issue with that. I'm under no illusion it's going to make me a better photographer ;)
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I’m with you there Toby. Currently I’ve got my hands on a GFX100s. Told myself I need to evaluate it :rolleyes:
 
nandbytes said:
I see you have bought your m43 stuff again.
been trying to get hold of a GM5.... its taking a while :(
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Just bought a cheap EM10-II for grab shots whilst out on dog walks. Camera and lens is lighter than the A9-II body alone, and I'm not too bothered about IQ with these kinds of shots, although wanted something a bit better than the iPhone. I did consider an RX100 or similar but I find them too fiddly to use.
 
woof woof said:
But if you're going into a dodgy place with a GX80 and a tiny lens like the 20mm f1.7 or 14mm f2.5 you're going in with kit costing about £300 but the A7c and lens costs how much? A lot more. Could another choice be one of those small EVF-less Sony APS-C bodies?
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yeah that's certainly true.
you make a good point... I'll look into it.
 
snerkler said:
Just bought a cheap EM10-II for grab shots whilst out on dog walks. Camera and lens is lighter than the A9-II body alone, and I'm not too bothered about IQ with these kinds of shots, although wanted something a bit better than the iPhone. I did consider an RX100 or similar but I find them too fiddly to use.
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yeah RX100s are very fiddly even for me.
Quite liked the LX100ii myself. might be an idea but you lose the telephoto reach.
 
nandbytes said:
yeah RX100s are very fiddly even for me.
Quite liked the LX100ii myself. might be an idea but you lose the telephoto reach.
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They are nice, but I picked up a cheap 40-150mm R as well so I have a 24-300mm range weighing 650g all in, the A9-II weighs 678g (y)
 
I still have my RX100 (MK1) still an awesome camera, really took some abuse that a system camera wouldn't.
It is definitely more awkward to use though, everything just takes longer to do.
 
snerkler said:
Just bought a cheap EM10-II for grab shots whilst out on dog walks. Camera and lens is lighter than the A9-II body alone, and I'm not too bothered about IQ with these kinds of shots, although wanted something a bit better than the iPhone. I did consider an RX100 or similar but I find them too fiddly to use.
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Sounds like you made a good purchase. I just googled the EM10-II and it's a lovely looking camera with that retro sort of look. Don't know if I'll buy one but it's tempting. Very good price for so many features. Under £200 on mpb but I really like the fox brown limited edition, https://www.olympus.co.uk/site/en/c/cameras/om_d_system_cameras/om_d/e_m10_mark_ii/index.html

The IBIS seems very good. I just watched a review with sharp photos at 1/4 second shutter speed. Real pity there's no weather sealing though. How is the EVF and speed of auto focus on yours? There doesn't appear to be a button for back button focus unless you can reassign the menu button?
 
I struggle to see any use for IS but I mostly use lenses from 20 to 50mm. I was looking at some landscape pictures on another site today taken at 1/25 and to be honest I just do not see the point as at shutter speeds like that anything that can move probably will move in any available slightest breeze. If movement isn't an issue or if it's desirable because motion blur is the point then I can see a use for slow shutter speeds and IS and there is clearly a use for IS with long lenses (IS is great for 400mm at 1/1xx) but for shorter lengths if people or anything else that can move are to be sharp I see no real advantage in IS as the shutter speeds required to freeze motion will negate the need for it.

It depends on the lens but with a fast acting lens focus on MFT can be pretty much instantaneous with no need to half press the shutter button and confirm that it's locked on. You just frame the shot and press the button and focus will have been acquired by the time the button reaches the point at which the shot is taken :D
 
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woof woof said:
I struggle to see any use for IS but I mostly use lenses from 20 to 50mm. I was looking at some landscape pictures on another site today taken at 1/25 and to be honest I just do not see the point as at shutter speeds like that anything that can move probably will move in any available slightest breeze. If movement isn't an issue or if it's desirable because motion blur is the point then I can see a use for slow shutter speeds and IS and there is clearly a use for IS with long lenses (IS is great for 400mm at 1/1xx) but for shorter lengths if people or anything else that can move are to be sharp I see no real advantage in IS as the shutter speeds required to freeze motion will negate the need for it.

It depends on the lens but with a fast acting lens focus on MFT can be pretty much instantaneous with no need to half press the shutter button and confirm that it's locked on. You just frame the shot and press the button and focus will have been acquired by the time the button reaches the point at which the shot is taken :D
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In low light situations where a faster shutter speed means a higher ISO such as when I do night shooting, I want a slower shutter speed to get enough light in and try and keep the ISO down, so IBIS is very useful because the slower the shutter speed the more chance of camera shake being picked up. I actually don't know what the slowest shutter speed of my camera is that uses IBIS, but in the video review I watched of the Olympus, he showed a photo of a drink in a glass very sharp at 1/4 second, and very blurry at 1/4 second with a previous model of the camera.
 
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Merlin5 said:
Sounds like you made a good purchase. I just googled the EM10-II and it's a lovely looking camera with that retro sort of look. Don't know if I'll buy one but it's tempting. Very good price for so many features. Under £200 on mpb but I really like the fox brown limited edition, https://www.olympus.co.uk/site/en/c/cameras/om_d_system_cameras/om_d/e_m10_mark_ii/index.html

The IBIS seems very good. I just watched a review with sharp photos at 1/4 second shutter speed. Real pity there's no weather sealing though. How is the EVF and speed of auto focus on yours? There doesn't appear to be a button for back button focus unless you can reassign the menu button?
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Image quality from Olympus has always been very good, these are some of my favourites that I've taken with Olympus M4/3
flic.kr

Favourite Olympus Photos

Explore this photo album by TDG-77 on Flickr!
flic.kr flic.kr

EVF and AF-S are more than satisfactory for its usage. AF-C isn't great, but it's unlikely I'll be shooting anything moving with this. If you want good AF-C on Olympus you need to use the EM1-II and newer.
 
Merlin5 said:
In low light situations where a faster shutter speed means a higher ISO such as when I do night shooting, I want a slower shutter speed to get enough light in and try and keep the ISO down, so IBIS is very useful because the slower the shutter speed the more chance of camera shake being picked up. I actually don't know what the slowest shutter speed of my camera is that uses IBIS, but in the video review I watched of the Olympus, he showed a photo of a drink in a glass very sharp at 1/4 second, and very blurry at 1/4 second with a previous model of the camera.
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Just as long as you know that at these double digit shutter speeds detail may be lost due to subject movement but of course you may not see and motion blur unless you look closely or even very closely.

I do know that static subjects can benefit from IS. Things like glasses of wine, displays in museums and the inside of churches etc but tbh most of my pictures are of or include nature or people with widish or normalish lenses and therefore I don't really benefit from IS and I very rarely take the sort of pictures that would although I do take some pictures with longer lenses and I may not need the reciprocal of the focal length so IS can come in handy then.

Oh. I once took a 1 second exposure of a stationary thing with a 20mm f1.8 without IS and it was fine, it's just that I hardly ever do that so hardly ever need it. I as always, I understand that some people love IS but it's not really a must have for me.
 
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