The Amazing Sony A1/A7/A9/APS-C & Anything else welcome Mega Thread!

T_J_G said:
I'll start Go Fund Me for both of you ;), as I've always said, it's not the kit, it's what you do with it! That's also not to put down those who just like to buy gear because they love gear either.

*Goes off to open up the parcel with a new lens in*:ROFLMAO:
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I bought the 35GM :ROFLMAO: Thing is, the A7 does pretty much what I want of it. Better higher iso is about my only want really. The A7c is top of my list though if I HAVE to buy a new body.
 
LeeRatters said:
I bought the 35GM :ROFLMAO: Thing is, the A7 does pretty much what I want of it. Better higher iso is about my only want really. The A7c is top of my list though if I HAVE to buy a new body.
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A7C or A7III have one of the best ISO performance on FF. Well worth the upgrade if you can afford it.
But if you are happy with A7 may be the A7Rii would make for a better upgrade at a bargain price.
 
Second wedding today with the 50GM teamed it up today with the 35GM and the combo worked perfect for me. :love:

Have another wedding tomorrow and Saturday. Love the 50GM!

I did have a weird problem today with one of my wifes A7III's I grabbed the camera from her and grabbed a quick shot and noticed straight away a line down the right hand side of the images kind of like you get when you a duff memory card. I checked it again and it was the same on the EVF and the LCD. So we stopped using that body, not long home now and the images are now reviewing as they should on the camera and the files are fine when imported to Lightroom so not exactly sure what has gone on. Anyone got any ideas?
 
f/2.8 said:
Second wedding today with the 50GM teamed it up today with the 35GM and the combo worked perfect for me. :love:

Have another wedding tomorrow and Saturday. Love the 50GM!

I did have a weird problem today with one of my wifes A7III's I grabbed the camera from her and grabbed a quick shot and noticed straight away a line down the right hand side of the images kind of like you get when you a duff memory card. I checked it again and it was the same on the EVF and the LCD. So we stopped using that body, not long home now and the images are now reviewing as they should on the camera and the files are fine when imported to Lightroom so not exactly sure what has gone on. Anyone got any ideas?
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Sounds like a gremlin, I’d try the camera with different cards and see if it happens again to try and determine a card vs camera issue.
 
snerkler said:
Sounds like a gremlin, I’d try the camera with different cards and see if it happens again to try and determine a card vs camera issue.
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It's a weird one have used these cards with this camera before without any problems and can't find any instance of someone having a similar problem online. Both the card and the camera seem fine now both in camera and out. Have tried the cards in another body and everything is good and have tried new cards in the body and all is good.

Very confusing but just in case I will not use these cards for tomorrows wedding and see how I get on.
 
Not sure why I haven't noticed this before, between my 2 cameras A73, the "AF On" on the back of the LCD is "AF Off" on the other, what is that setting and where can I change it? I swear it used to be the same! Okay, I figure out the difference. The one with it OFF, it doesn't have the live focusing.

But I have Pre-AF set to On, on both of them.

EDIT- never mind, found it!

jxA3SVv.jpg
 
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Raymond Lin said:
Not sure why I haven't noticed this before, between my 2 cameras A73, the "AF On" on the back of the LCD is "AF Off" on the other, what is that setting and where can I change it? I swear it used to be the same! Okay, I figure out the difference. The one with it OFF, it doesn't have the live focusing.

But I have Pre-AF set to On, on both of them.

EDIT- never mind, found it!

jxA3SVv.jpg
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Is that not the icon for eye AF and would suggest that one has eye AF activated and the other not? I haven't got my camera to hand to check though.
 
A1 firmware update .
I had a little try with it yesterday in poor light and the AF does seem to be more stable and even faster to get on a birds eye .
I did not know there was an IS problem ( i might have had it ) but it's working fine .

the EVF black out is said to be fixed but iv being using the camera on off switch all the time and really like that as it speeds up the VF turn on time so don't know.

Rob.
 
Definitely Eye AF

Screenshot 2021-07-02 at 08.05.50.png
 
snerkler said:
Is that not the icon for eye AF and would suggest that one has eye AF activated and the other not? I haven't got my camera to hand to check though.
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I've found it last night, it if the Eye Af but one of the sub menus, so looking and comparing the menu between the 2 didn't help as it was behind one of the settings on a layer or 2 below.
 
a7riv users. I have the the crop/super 35 option mapped to a button in order to change without menu diving. any real world experience using the crop function in camera like this rather than cropping in post? ive always thought that doing in camera would help with nailing focus.
 
addicknchips said:
a7riv users. I have the the crop/super 35 option mapped to a button in order to change without menu diving. any real world experience using the crop function in camera like this rather than cropping in post? ive always thought that doing in camera would help with nailing focus.
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there isn't much benefit as far as I noticed. the AF is equally good (or bad) in crop mode as its in FF mode.
the main "benefit" is smaller RAW files plus faster buffer clearing.
 
addicknchips said:
a7riv users. I have the the crop/super 35 option mapped to a button in order to change without menu diving. any real world experience using the crop function in camera like this rather than cropping in post? ive always thought that doing in camera would help with nailing focus.
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In theory it should help with nailing focus but for BIF i like the wider FOV and crop in post more so if it's coming towards me.

Rob.
 
addicknchips said:
a7riv users. I have the the crop/super 35 option mapped to a button in order to change without menu diving. any real world experience using the crop function in camera like this rather than cropping in post? ive always thought that doing in camera would help with nailing focus.
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I did exactly the same, the main reason was for wildlife where it was always going to be small in the frame and I knew it was going to be cropped heavily in post. Doing it in camera like this helped with the processing speed both in camera and in post. I'm not sure if it improves AF, I can't see it tbh as I believe it still reads on the sensor the same and it's just the output to the EVF, LCD and memory card which is different. I've heard it said that it may meter the scene differently, but if the above is true then metering will also be done before the crop. As always I'm happy to proven wrong ;) I never noticed any difference though.
 
Malfis said:
I thought this was just a different view from the norm of a humbug travelling on Mum's back.
Sony A9ii and FE 200-600mm + 1.4 T/C

I’ve just bought the T/C for the second time (shouldn’t have sold it!) and am again surprised by the great quality.


Hitching a ride.jpg by Malcolm Fisher, on Flickr
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I found the 1.4x TC did not function properly on my old a7Riii . Sold it but now own 2 x a7Riv's. I wonder if they would fair better with the TC?

Nice image by the way

Les :)
 
Lez325 said:
I found the 1.4x TC did not function properly on my old a7Riii . Sold it but now own 2 x a7Riv's. I wonder if they would fair better with the TC?

Nice image by the way

Les :)
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Thanks Les.
I used the 1.4 T/C quite successfully with the A7Riv.
 
Malfis said:
Thanks Les.
I used the 1.4 T/C quite successfully with the A7Riv.
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Thanks for that. It was very slow to auto focus on the a7Riii

If I can borrow one just to test it. ( I don't mean yours lol.) I may well end up buying another

Les :)
 
Lez325 said:
I found the 1.4x TC did not function properly on my old a7Riii . Sold it but now own 2 x a7Riv's. I wonder if they would fair better with the TC?

Nice image by the way

Les :)
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In A7RIII with the 200-600mm you get only CDAF at f9 while using the 1.4x.
A7RIV provides PDAF till f11 so it'll work better on that.
 
snerkler said:
If you try it yourself you'll see that metering modes are still working. Set your camera to manual mode and ISO 100 and see what the light meter is showing, i.e. correct exposure, under/over exposure. Keeping the camera still (so showing the same frame) change the metering mode and you will likely see the light meter value change (scene depending). This shows that the metering is still working and NOT disabled (y)
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I just tried what you suggested. Manual mode and 100 ISO. When I was on multi metering, the EVF exposure meter showed a notch or two under zero, and when I switched to spot metering with the Fn button while keeping the same frame, the EVF showed it changing to a notch or two above zero. I tested that back and forth a few times. So yeah, it works. :)
 
No photography for me toady, it's raining and we're forecast thunder storms which might make for some good pictures for some people who dare to go out :D Other than that my internet is dial up fast today.

Come on England!
 
Mike.P said:
So the A9 arrived yesterday (Thanks Dave) and the MC-11 today (Thanks Jonathan). Put them together, added the Canon MP-E65mm macro.


DSC00052_Jpg by Michael Pursey, on Flickr
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Would any of my lenses in my sig with my a6600 be able to get a close up shot like that? I'm guessing not in which case, what aps-c lens would someone recommend?
 
Merlin5 said:
Would any of my lenses in my sig with my a6600 be able to get a close up shot like that? I'm guessing not in which case, what aps-c lens would someone recommend?
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All depends how close you can get ;) These were both taken at 200mm on FF


DSC_1085-Edit by TDG-77, on Flickr

DSC_1571 by TDG-77, on Flickr


Anthony's shot was taken at 600mm though so you'd need a 400mm lens on APS-C to give you the same 'reach'
 
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snerkler said:
All depends how close you can get ;) These were both taken at 200mm on FF


DSC_1085-Edit by TDG-77, on Flickr

DSC_1571 by TDG-77, on Flickr


Anthony's shot was taken at 600mm though so you'd need a 400mm lens on APS-C to give you the same 'reach'
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Wow, stunning photos Toby, particularly the first one. Well I can get 525mm FF equivalent with my Sony 70-350mm which would get almost as close, so would that pretty much do it or would I really need a macro lens?
 
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Merlin5 said:
Wow, stunning photos Toby, particularly the first one. Well I can get 525mm FF equivalent with my Sony 70-350mm which would get almost as close, so thata would pretty much do it or would I really need a macro lens?
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525mm equivalent is plenty, but like Toby said it fully depends how close you can get. I do the safari park locally with my 150-600 and 200 prime, or if I am feeling lazy just the 150-600. If you're shooting through glass, push the lens hood flat against the glass, if you tilt the shot will never be sharp.
 
Merlin5 said:
Wow, stunning photos Toby, particularly the first one. Well I can get 525mm FF equivalent with my Sony 70-350mm which would get almost as close, so would that pretty much do it or would I really need a macro lens?
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Thanks very much. No, macro lenses are something completely different. 525mm eq should see you right for a lot of wildlife, and will generally be long enough for wildlife parks.
 
NewBeetle said:
525mm equivalent is plenty, but like Toby said it fully depends how close you can get. I do the safari park locally with my 150-600 and 200 prime, or if I am feeling lazy just the 150-600. If you're shooting through glass, push the lens hood flat against the glass, if you tilt the shot will never be sharp.
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Awesome, thanks. I thought I need a macro lens to capture tiny insects close up but it seems not and that I already have a lens for the job. So for what kind of photo would I want a macro lens?
 
Merlin5 said:
Awesome, thanks. I thought I need a macro lens to capture tiny insects close up but it seems not and that I already have a lens for the job. So for what kind of photo would I want a macro lens?
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A macro lens will allow a tiny subject to fill your frame as they have a much larger magnification and also a much shorter minimum focus distance.
 
NewBeetle said:
A macro lens will allow a tiny subject to fill your frame as they have a much larger magnification and also a much shorter minimum focus distance.
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Actually, I've just realised that Toby might have thought I was asking about a telephoto lens for your Lynx photo, though I could be wrong. I understand my Sony 70 to 350 can do similar wildlife. I was asking about a lens for my a6600 to get a close up photo like Mike.Ps insect photo above, which presumably would need to be macro, right?
 
Merlin5 said:
I was asking about a lens for my a6600 to get a close up photo like Mike.Ps insect photo above, which presumably would need to be macro, right?
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You will need either a macro lens or to start with something like a Raynox addon that will possibly attach to your 70-350mm.

The lens I use is a Canon MP-E 65mm but that is overkill for a begiiner really, any macro lens will get you started, even an old manual focus one with an adapter will give you decent results as very few macro shooters use autofocus.
 
NewBeetle said:
A macro lens will allow a tiny subject to fill your frame as they have a much larger magnification and also a much shorter minimum focus distance.
Click to expand...
Merlin5 said:
Actually, I've just realised that Toby might have thought I was asking about a telephoto lens for your Lynx photo, though I could be wrong. I understand my Sony 70 to 350 can do similar wildlife. I was asking about a lens for my a6600 to get a close up photo like Mike.Ps insect photo above, which presumably would need to be macro, right?
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Sorry, yes I did think you meant you wanted a macro for the lynx.

For insect shots like Mike’s then a macro lens is ideal but there are alternatives. You can get adapters such as the Raynox 250, and you can use reversed primes with or without extension tubes. You can even get pseudo macro shots with other lenses if they have close min focus distance.

As Anthony says a macro lens fills the frame with the subject and gives a 1:1 replication (some special ones can give more magnification than this). What that means is that if a subject is 36mm long it will fill 36mm of the sensor. 36mm is the width of a full frame sensor therefore a 36mm subject will fill the entire frame.
 
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snerkler said:
Sorry, yes I did think you meant you wanted a macro for the lynx.

For insect shots like Mike’s then a macro lens is ideal but there are alternatives. You can get adapters such as the Raynox 250, and you can use reversed primes with or without extension tubes. You can even get pseudo macro shots with other lenses if they have close min focus distance.
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@Merlin5 these are taken with a 150-600mm zoom lens at it's min focus distance (around 8ft from memory)

DSC_7221 copy by TDG-77, on Flickr
DSC_7071 2 by TDG-77, on Flickr




If you want the really close ups like these then you'll need a dedicated macro set up (macro lens, reversed prime etc). These were shot with a 105mm macro lens at its min focus distance (around 30cm from the sensor)

DSC_9577 by TDG-77, on Flickr

DSC_8056 2 by TDG-77, on Flickr

DSC_8759 by TDG-77, on Flickr
 
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Mike.P said:
You will need either a macro lens or to start with something like a Raynox addon that will possibly attach to your 70-350mm.

The lens I use is a Canon MP-E 65mm but that is overkill for a begiiner really, any macro lens will get you started, even an old manual focus one with an adapter will give you decent results as very few macro shooters use autofocus.
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snerkler said:
Sorry, yes I did think you meant you wanted a macro for the lynx.

For insect shots like Mike’s then a macro lens is ideal but there are alternatives. You can get adapters such as the Raynox 250, and you can use reversed primes with or without extension tubes. You can even get pseudo macro shots with other lenses if they have close min focus distance.

As Anthony says a macro lens fills the frame with the subject and gives a 1:1 replication. What that means is that if a subject is 36mm long it will fill 36mm of the sensor. 36mm is the width of a full frame sensor therefore a 36mm subject will fill the entire frame.
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Thanks guys. So if I bought a Raynox 250, I'd need this

Raynox DCR-250 Macro Attachment: Amazon.co.uk: Electronics & Photo

Free delivery and returns on eligible orders. Buy Raynox DCR-250 Macro Attachment at Amazon UK.
www.amazon.co.uk

but in a 67mm filter thread if there is one with that size, and just screw it onto my 70 to 350 lens and that should work well enough for macro shots? 67mm also is the filter size of my Sigma 16mm, though the 16mm would mean getting super close.
 
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