The Amazing Sony A1/A7/A9/APS-C & Anything else welcome Mega Thread!

G.K.Jnr. said:
The way I see it is if you're using auto ISO then you're not shooting manual.
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I hear this said so often and know its not really full manual control, but what do you call it if you're using M mode with auto ISO? Surely its 'manual with auto iso enabled'. What else could it be called?

M mode and auto ISO is so useful for genres like wildlife when cameras have such a good ISO performance. I find it so useful so I can choose the aperture and shutter speed and not worry too much about ISO. Like woof woof has said exposure compensation is useful in M mode with auto iso as it overrides the ISO value the camera has chosen. Of course I could just turn off auto ISO but often the light can be changeable with wildlife and I'd probably not be able to keep up.

What I've never understood is the people who use full manual mode and just centre the camera's meter. Just seems pointless to me is you're basing the manual exposure values you select off the cameras metering you may as well just use aperture priority or shutter priority.
 
I used to use auto ISO a lot myself but nowadays I either use ISO 100 or ISO 500/640 and the rest can be achieved in post processing.
 
rob-nikon said:
Surely its 'manual with auto iso enabled'.
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I'd call it auto exposure with fixed aperture and shutter. :)

Manual exposure can be useful when you know the meter will be fooled if you move through the scene, but it's still legit to use the exposure off the cameras meter from the 'right' part of the scene, then just fire away as needed. A few years back I shot some wakeboarding images, and because the subject was moving through the air with a mix of sky & trees behind I had to meter of a sensible bit of scenery first. And for doing pano shots of course.
 
Have been working my way through editing some of the images from Saturdays wedding today.

Just as a test I took a few smaller groups shots with the 50GM wide open, and my god they look good. I took the same shots with the 35GM as well at more normal apertures just in case but won't be using any of them. Yeah that won't be for everyone but it's a very different look and as long as they are on the same focal plane focus isn't an issue, my couple are gonna love these. Wide open this lens is very sharp. It's not far of the same look of separation you get using a 135mm for group shots, which I love but obviously with it being a 50 it's a lot more practical for this.

I was genuinely excited to get this lens and it's been a long time since a lens excited me much, absolutely love this thing.
 
Merlin5 said:
Thanks George, yes, all makes sense. But according to that video, metering modes like multi and spot are disabled when using manual. But since I use auto ISO with manual mode and therefore not fully manual, does that mean multi and spot metering modes are enabled, or are you referring to being in aperture or shutter priority only? Apologies for my confusion on this.
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I’ll watch the video tomorrow but unless proven otherwise either he’s wrong or you’ve misunderstood IMO ;)

In order to set your exposure the camera must first meter the scene, this is true whatever shooting mode you’re in, whether it be manual, auto or any other. The point of the different metering modes is to give you more control of what you want the camera to meter to allow you to get a more accurate exposure for how you want it. It wouldn’t therefore make sense (to me) to disable a metering mode. This could lead to undesirable exposures (in theory at least but it shouldn’t happen now as we have the backup of EVF and on screen histogram)
 
snerkler said:
I’ll watch the video tomorrow but unless proven otherwise either he’s wrong or you’ve misunderstood IMO ;)

In order to set your exposure the camera must first meter the scene, this is true whatever shooting mode you’re in, whether it be manual, auto or any other. The point of the different metering modes is to give you more control of what you want the camera to meter to allow you to get a more accurate exposure for how you want it. It wouldn’t therefore make sense (to me) to disable a metering mode. This could lead to undesirable exposures (in theory at least but it shouldn’t happen now as we have the backup of EVF and on screen histogram)
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Thanks snerkler. Yeah if you get a chance, do check his video. But I've typed out what he says and it's this.

" Now, there is a workflow that is nothing to do with metering modes,.. the automated metering systems in the camera which many photographers implement because of their understanding of exposure. In this instance this image was shot in manual exposure mode, so all of the metering systems are basically disabled. In saying that, you'll still see in the EVF whether the camera thinks you're over or underexposing,"

So if he's saying the metering systems are disabled, I'm assuming he's referring to multi, spot, highlight, etc. Or else I probably am misunderstanding.
 
f/2.8 said:
Have been working my way through editing some of the images from Saturdays wedding today.

Just as a test I took a few smaller groups shots with the 50GM wide open, and my god they look good. I took the same shots with the 35GM as well at more normal apertures just in case but won't be using any of them. Yeah that won't be for everyone but it's a very different look and as long as they are on the same focal plane focus isn't an issue, my couple are gonna love these. Wide open this lens is very sharp. It's not far of the same look of separation you get using a 135mm for group shots, which I love but obviously with it being a 50 it's a lot more practical for this.

I was genuinely excited to get this lens and it's been a long time since a lens excited me much, absolutely love this thing.
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I do the the same, often a wide shot wide open, then 85 at 1.4. The group shots look so much better.

Looks a nice lens, but I don’t think I’ll be adding it to my setup.
 
T_J_G said:
I do the the same, often a wide shot wide open, then 85 at 1.4. The group shots look so much better.

Looks a nice lens, but I don’t think I’ll be adding it to my setup.
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Makes such a difference, the downside of using a longer lens though is that you need to be further away which isn't always possible and it is more difficult because you are further away to give direction when needed. I love using my 135mm for group shots but the longer lens does have those limitations, the results though. :love:
 
f/2.8 said:
Makes such a difference, the downside of using a longer lens though is that you need to be further away which isn't always possible and it is more difficult because you are further away to give direction when needed. I love using my 135mm for group shots but the longer lens does have those limitations, the results though. :love:
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Same as anything, always harder to get better results. The look is totally different though, and well worth doing.
 
Merlin5 said:
Thanks snerkler. Yeah if you get a chance, do check his video. But I've typed out what he says and it's this.

" Now, there is a workflow that is nothing to do with metering modes,.. the automated metering systems in the camera which many photographers implement because of their understanding of exposure. In this instance this image was shot in manual exposure mode, so all of the metering systems are basically disabled. In saying that, you'll still see in the EVF whether the camera thinks you're over or underexposing,"

So if he's saying the metering systems are disabled, I'm assuming he's referring to multi, spot, highlight, etc. Or else I probably am misunderstanding.
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OK so I've just watched it and can see why it's confusing as he doesn't explain it very well in the video imo, I've actually just left a comment for him.

So he starts out by saying (and showing on screen) that some oldschool photographers know what the exposure should be from understanding the Sunny 16 rule (he doesn't say sunny 16 rule but does show it in the video), but rather than saying that the metering modes are disabled he should have say become irrelevant if you're calculating your own exposure.

If you try it yourself you'll see that metering modes are still working. Set your camera to manual mode and ISO 100 and see what the light meter is showing, i.e. correct exposure, under/over exposure. Keeping the camera still (so showing the same frame) change the metering mode and you will likely see the light meter value change (scene depending). This shows that the metering is still working and NOT disabled (y)
 
IMO and if using a camera with a meter Sunny 16 should be hit with a shovel, dowsed in petrol, burnt and buried in the middle of a desert somewhere simply because I've seen people using extreme aperture settings and too low a shutter speed because of it. That may be because they're a bit misguided or silly... but confusion and people whispering "Sunny 16" in their ear are at the bottom of it and these days many people would be better off never having heard of it. A bit like when the circle of confusion gets dragged into DoF and it all gets too messy.
 
Oh, apparently I'm "In the habit" now.

It's true that I do have my religious leanings but I'm retired now and have no intention of signing up for anything no matter how snazzy and tempting the uniform. Here's a nice one...

amscan 840241-55 Adults Friar Costume with Capelet and Monk Wig - Size Standard - 1 PC : Amazon.co.uk: Toys & Games

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I will happily call people "Brother/Sister" though as that'll fit in with both religious and one big world family views :D
 
The rumor site points to A1 firmware update...

Sony A1 firmware released. It also fixes the IBIS issue! | sonyalpharumors

Sony released the new 1.10 firmware update you can download here:sony.com/electronics/support/e-mount-body-ilce-1-series/ilce-1/downloads Our Sony A1 facebook member Dean also reports that the IBIS issue has been fixed: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xuLwwt6SPXE Benefits and Improvements of the...
www.sonyalpharumors.com www.sonyalpharumors.com
 
woof woof said:
The rumor site points to A1 firmware update...

Sony A1 firmware released. It also fixes the IBIS issue! | sonyalpharumors

Sony released the new 1.10 firmware update you can download here:sony.com/electronics/support/e-mount-body-ilce-1-series/ilce-1/downloads Our Sony A1 facebook member Dean also reports that the IBIS issue has been fixed: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xuLwwt6SPXE Benefits and Improvements of the...
www.sonyalpharumors.com www.sonyalpharumors.com
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I think @GyRob will be happy with this one, fixes his EVF blackout issue possibly.
 
any one seen the new canon RF 14-35mm f4?
Really jealous..... looks like a very nice lens. hope it reviews well too!
and I hope sony takes note ;)
 
Nupe... But I've looked at that rumoured retro Nikon a few times. APS-C though.
 
woof woof said:
IMO and if using a camera with a meter Sunny 16 should be hit with a shovel, dowsed in petrol, burnt and buried in the middle of a desert somewhere simply because I've seen people using extreme aperture settings and too low a shutter speed because of it. That may be because they're a bit misguided or silly... but confusion and people whispering "Sunny 16" in their ear are at the bottom of it and these days many people would be better off never having heard of it. A bit like when the circle of confusion gets dragged into DoF and it all gets too messy.
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Yep, I trust the metering, EVF and histogram more than the sunny 16 rule. It’s a bit like people who are adamant that landscapes should be shot at f22 and don’t necessarily use the hyperfocal point ;) I’d much rather lose a couple of inches DOF and not suffer diffraction.
nandbytes said:
any one seen the new canon RF 14-35mm f4?
Really jealous..... looks like a very nice lens. hope it reviews well too!
and I hope sony takes note ;)
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Does look good.
woof woof said:
Nupe... But I've looked at that rumoured retro Nikon a few times. APS-C though.
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That looks really nice, but for me it will be one of those ‘form over function’ cameras for me. I love the retro cameras to look at but in use I much prefer to have a grip. Also, whilst I like the idea of all the manual dials the reality is I never got on with them on the Fujis as much as I thought I would. I hope it does well for them though.
 
woof woof said:
….. But I've looked at that rumoured retro Nikon a few times. APS-C though.
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Like it a lot, BUT no IBIS, no 3rd-party lenses, and not full-frame.
 
@Merlin5 Thanks, it's good to be back shooting people again! There is only so many photos I can take of my other hobbies!

E7ClwGC.jpg
 
snerkler said:
That looks really nice, but for me it will be one of those ‘form over function’ cameras for me. I love the retro cameras to look at but in use I much prefer to have a grip. Also, whilst I like the idea of all the manual dials the reality is I never got on with them on the Fujis as much as I thought I would. I hope it does well for them though.
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Stephen L said:
Like it a lot, BUT no IBIS, no 3rd-party lenses, and not full-frame.
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I think just like Fuji they're targeting people who like detailed dials and being able to see how the camera is set up without having to look at the EFV or screen. I do like that but mostly I prefer the positioning and ergonomics of near top of camera front and back dials for aperture and shutter and I'm not too bothered about an ISO dial.

I can see the appeal but this would need to be FF and to have a range of nice compact lenses to get me to even begin to think about doing anything more than looking at pictures of the camera and in reality I'd rather have an A7x for the price.
 
woof woof said:
I think just like Fuji they're targeting people who like detailed dials and being able to see how the camera is set up without having to look at the EFV or screen. I do like that but mostly I prefer the positioning and ergonomics of near top of camera front and back dials for aperture and shutter and I'm not too bothered about an ISO dial.

I can see the appeal but this would need to be FF and to have a range of nice compact lenses to get me to even begin to think about doing anything more than looking at pictures of the camera and in reality I'd rather have an A7x for the price.
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having tried all different options I prefer an aperture ring on the lens to change aperture, a thumb dial to change shutter speed. With the retro style top dial you cannot change it quickly with your eye to the EVF.
Don't really care about ISO as I wouldn't change it all that much anyway.
 
nandbytes said:
having tried all different options I prefer an aperture ring on the lens to change aperture, a thumb dial to change shutter speed. With the retro style top dial you cannot change it quickly with your eye to the EVF.
Don't really care about ISO as I wouldn't change it all that much anyway.
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Yup. Top dials can mean using finger and thumb and taking the camera away from your eye.

Despite using manual lenses a lot I really don't mind changing aperture with a front near top of camera dial.
 
nandbytes said:
and expensive - £1,749 :eek:

a good £400-500 more than I expected.
I remember complaining Sony lenses were expensive but canon is taking all this to a whole new level!
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:eek:
 
nandbytes said:
having tried all different options I prefer an aperture ring on the lens to change aperture, a thumb dial to change shutter speed. With the retro style top dial you cannot change it quickly with your eye to the EVF.
Don't really care about ISO as I wouldn't change it all that much anyway.
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I don't usually need to change my settings with any great speed. But I do like to see what the camera is set to before I start to use it. With Sony, I hate the fact that the aperture chosen is indicated in red in the viewfinder until you change another setting. I simply cannot see it.
 
snerkler said:
OK so I've just watched it and can see why it's confusing as he doesn't explain it very well in the video imo, I've actually just left a comment for him.

So he starts out by saying (and showing on screen) that some oldschool photographers know what the exposure should be from understanding the Sunny 16 rule (he doesn't say sunny 16 rule but does show it in the video), but rather than saying that the metering modes are disabled he should have say become irrelevant if you're calculating your own exposure.

If you try it yourself you'll see that metering modes are still working. Set your camera to manual mode and ISO 100 and see what the light meter is showing, i.e. correct exposure, under/over exposure. Keeping the camera still (so showing the same frame) change the metering mode and you will likely see the light meter value change (scene depending). This shows that the metering is still working and NOT disabled (y)
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Excellent, thanks a lot Toby for checking that and clearing up my confusion. I've just seen your comment to him.

I'm pleased because I want to be able to use those different metering modes while in manual so good to know they'll still work. (y)

woof woof said:
IMO and if using a camera with a meter Sunny 16 should be hit with a shovel, dowsed in petrol, burnt and buried in the middle of a desert.
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:LOL: (y)
 
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Nikon is a bit late to the game, you just get a Fuji X-T4 which has IBIS and lenses with a used market and be done with it. Unless you have to have Nikon on the body. It has the look, and just get an older body if you just want the experience. £500 can get you a X-T2.

My friend likes the Fuji :giggle:

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VucLO8D.jpg
 
Tempting but the marketing BS they came out with always put me off. I don't know if they still make outlandish statements... but generally good luck to those who can ignore all that and love the kit.

I used my Panasonic GX9 this morning and it's just about perfect for me and makes me wish Sony (as I have Sony fit lenses) would make a camera just like it but FF.
 
that Nikon may do well in the casual market. looks nice until you see the rear of it and it looks pretty cheap. they need to address the lack of quality DX lenses available too. May as well just go with a fuji.
 
More pictures on DPR and there's a bit on the 28mm f2.8 too. It looks to be styled very much like the film era MF Nikon lenses and does look nice to me. No aperture ring though? Shocker. But they put an aperture ring on the zoom? Why not on the 28mm? Madness. IMO.
 
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Based on discussions above with @addicknchips regarding the lens creep on the 100-400mm I contacted Sony about it as I wondered if there was a way of tightening it so that it didn't move at all when set in the 'tight' setting. Sometime I do wonder if they understand the equipment at all.

The reason that I say that is that the have asked me to check the firmware is up to date on both camera and lens, and also to check the lens on another body. Now my understanding is that it's a purely mechanical tensioner and therefore would not be influenced by firmware or another camera :thinking:
 
Merlin5 said:
Excellent, thanks a lot Toby for checking that and clearing up my confusion. I've just seen your comment to him.

I'm pleased because I want to be able to use those different metering modes while in manual so good to know they'll still work. (y)
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No worries, my pleasure.

I should have put a disclaimer in though saying "don't ever take anything I say as gospel" :lol:
 
snerkler said:
Based on discussions above with @addicknchips regarding the lens creep on the 100-400mm I contacted Sony about it as I wondered if there was a way of tightening it so that it didn't move at all when set in the 'tight' setting. Sometime I do wonder if they understand the equipment at all.

The reason that I say that is that the have asked me to check the firmware is up to date on both camera and lens, and also to check the lens on another body. Now my understanding is that it's a purely mechanical tensioner and therefore would not be influenced by firmware or another camera :thinking:
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have you turned it off and turned it on again?? :LOL:
 
snerkler said:
Based on discussions above with @addicknchips regarding the lens creep on the 100-400mm I contacted Sony about it as I wondered if there was a way of tightening it so that it didn't move at all when set in the 'tight' setting. Sometime I do wonder if they understand the equipment at all.

The reason that I say that is that the have asked me to check the firmware is up to date on both camera and lens, and also to check the lens on another body. Now my understanding is that it's a purely mechanical tensioner and therefore would not be influenced by firmware or another camera :thinking:
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ah good to see there are still some idiots in Sony's customer service department. I was afraid they'd have lost their job after my last interaction with them.
 
Lez325 said:
Here's a question for you all,

I shoot mostly Wildlife and own a Sony a7Riii (42mp) and Sony a7Riv (61mp) - Im thinking of selling or P-ex the a7Riii and buying a different body

my question is buy anther a7Riv or maybe an a9 - thoughts on which is a better body, for Wildlife images please fellow Sony shooters :)

Thanks in advance

Les :)
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Get the A1
 
Council House Prime Time.

A7 and Nikon 35mm f2.5 Series E MK1.

Step up, step down.

1Rl6tGn.jpg


Seeing what shallow DoF and bokeh look like,

kVfqCdp.jpg


Flowers.

Y8E7r22.jpg
 
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