The Amazing Sony A1/A7/A9/APS-C & Anything else welcome Mega Thread!

snerkler said:
Possibly so, don’t think I’ve used bulb on mirrorless before. But I still can’t work out why?
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My first thought was could it be to do with heat build up?

But I'm also thinking could it be due to how the electronic shutter works? On a defined long exposure it still knows how long to expose for so it can determine the "sweep" speed/time, but on bulb how would it know how slow to sweep across each row on the sensor? Or is this way off the mark? lol

Would Global Shutters be able to overcome this?
 
Well, at first i thought….it must be like shutter…but then if you can shoot video? then you can shoot bulb. Especially if the camera doesn't have the 29:59 limit. If you can shoot video until the card is full then you can shoot bulb, in terms of sensor being constantly on.

Same thing with heat, if you can do it with video, then you should be able to do it with bulb.
 
gman said:
My first thought was could it be to do with heat build up?

But I'm also thinking could it be due to how the electronic shutter works? On a defined long exposure it still knows how long to expose for so it can determine the "sweep" speed/time, but on bulb how would it know how slow to sweep across each row on the sensor? Or is this way off the mark? lol

Would Global Shutters be able to overcome this?
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Can’t see it being heat build up, the sensor’s ‘on’ whether electronic or mechanical. With regards to how slow it would sweep I’d imagine it just shuts as fast as possible once the elapsed time is finished.
 
I'm not particularly clued up with how the different systems work, but with a mechanical shutter isn't the whole sensor turned on and exposure is controlled by the shutter, whereas with an electronic shutter the sensor is on but turned on but only receiving light as per the scan or something like that?

So with mechanical and bulb the whole sensor is on and it's receiving light, with the whole shutter open until you stop it where the shutter will close and the sensor will switch off?

But with electronic shutter, how can it do this because in this mode it needs to sweep across the sensor so is restricted by a set time frame? I suppose the whole sensor could be turned on and remain on, but perhaps because of how the electronic shutter is designed for regular use, then the software isn't in place to allow such?

Perhaps a firmware update could sort it, but if it were that easy then why not already provide it, which makes me think I'm in the wrong tracks here.

Regarding video, doesn't that use the electronic shutter method because it still needs to control exposure using shutter speed? If the whole sensor was on like in bulb then wouldn't the video get blown pretty fast?
 
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gman said:
I'm not particularly clued up with how the different systems work, but with a mechanical shutter isn't the whole sensor turned on and exposure is controlled by the shutter, whereas with an electronic shutter the sensor is on but turned on but only receiving light as per the scan or something like that?

So with mechanical and bulb the whole sensor is on and it's receiving light, with the whole shutter open until you stop it where the shutter will close and the sensor will switch off?

But with electronic shutter, how can it do this because in this mode it needs to sweep across the sensor so is restricted by a set time frame? I suppose the whole sensor could be turned on and remain on, but perhaps because of how the electronic shutter is designed for regular use, then the software isn't in place to allow such?

Perhaps a firmware update could sort it, but if it were that easy then why not already provide it, which makes me think I'm in the wrong tracks here.

Regarding video, doesn't that use the electronic shutter method because it still needs to control exposure using shutter speed? If the whole sensor was on like in bulb then wouldn't the video get blown pretty fast?
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I don't know how it works either, however you can do 30s exposure with the electronic shutter so I would expect the shutter is open just like mechanical and then it scans as fast as possible at the end to close the shutter. I can't see how it would be a very slow scan as this could introduce motion artefacts?
 
@snerkler

The shutters are designed to work in different ways, a rolling electronic shutter sensor is deigned to operate very quickly (ie achieve short exposure times and high frame rates) and readout of lines on the sensor occurs while other lines are exposing - doesn't work with long exposure times. ie there are no seprerate integration (exposure) and readout phases with an electronic shutter.

An electronic global shutter works like a mechanical shutter - exposes (integrates) then reads out when 'shutter' is closed - will work for bulb mode,
 
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Mr Perceptive said:
@snerkler

The shutters are designed to work in different ways, a rolling electronic shutter is deigned to operate very quickly (ie achieve short exposure times and high frame rates) and readout of lines on the sensor occurs while other liunes are exposing - doesn't work with long exposure times. ie there are no seprerate integration (exposure) and readout phases with an electronic shutter.

An electronic global shutter works like a mechanical shutter - exposes (integrates) then reads out when 'shutter' is closed - will work for bulb mode,
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On Sony at A9 and A1 (may be others I wouldn't know) you can get up to 30 seconds exposure with electronic shutter.
If it can do 30 seconds how is that different from 60 second or anything longer?
 
As I gave Panamoz quite a hard time on here a few days ago thought it was only right to say that the matters got resolved and I ended up relatively happy in the end.

I was disappointed that they took a long time to reply at points but it seems they were a bit inundated with problems at the time with other people having similar issues as I was. I was also quite disappointed that at times Panamoz were telling me one thing and FedEx was telling me another. After dealing with FedEx a few times I have a feeling that this was more an issue with FedEx as depending on who I spoke to there was a different reason for the hold up. Just as an example FedEx said twice that the hold up was because of under paid duty, then they also said the hold up was because the parcel couldn't be x-rayed and every time I spoke to them I got a different story. The x-ray thing does seem to ring true as the packing box has a sticker saying it had failed x-ray.

Just to give you an idea my package left Panamoz went to Germany - Belgium - France - London, within 2 days. It was then held at Stanstead by custom's for just over a week, After that it went back to France, Fed Ex claimed Panamoz had recalled the package. Panamoz said they didn't but it did appear it was on it's way back to them as it next appeared in Belgium. It then got lost again on it's way to Dublin. Eventually they found it in Dublin and they sent it over night to Belfast and then on to me.

Have no idea what the truth of it all was and I think Panamoz were under a lot of pressure dealing with similar issues to mine, I know a guy who at the same time was having similar problems with a 17k order and he was going absolutely nuts. They did agree to offering a refund, and they did provide a partial refund to make up for the inconvenience even though they had already given me a decent discount when I made the order. They were also much quicker to respond in the last few days.
 
nandbytes said:
On Sony at A9 and A1 (may be others I wouldn't know) you can get up to 30 seconds exposure with electronic shutter.
If it can do 30 seconds how is that different from 60 second or anything longer?
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I suspect the stacked sensor has a bearing on this, in that the readout is from a different 'effective memory plane' than that on which the exposure is being undertaken.
 
f/2.8 said:
As I gave Panamoz quite a hard time on here a few days ago thought it was only right to say that the matters got resolved and I ended up relatively happy in the end.

I was disappointed that they took a long time to reply at points but it seems they were a bit inundated with problems at the time with other people having similar issues as I was. I was also quite disappointed that at times Panamoz were telling me one thing and FedEx was telling me another. After dealing with FedEx a few times I have a feeling that this was more an issue with FedEx as depending on who I spoke to there was a different reason for the hold up. Just as an example FedEx said twice that the hold up was because of under paid duty, then they also said the hold up was because the parcel couldn't be x-rayed and every time I spoke to them I got a different story. The x-ray thing does seem to ring true as the packing box has a sticker saying it had failed x-ray.

Just to give you an idea my package left Panamoz went to Germany - Belgium - France - London, within 2 days. It was then held at Stanstead by custom's for just over a week, After that it went back to France, Fed Ex claimed Panamoz had recalled the package. Panamoz said they didn't but it did appear it was on it's way back to them as it next appeared in Belgium. It then got lost again on it's way to Dublin. Eventually they found it in Dublin and they sent it over night to Belfast and then on to me.

Have no idea what the truth of it all was and I think Panamoz were under a lot of pressure dealing with similar issues to mine, I know a guy who at the same time was having similar problems with a 17k order and he was going absolutely nuts. They did agree to offering a refund, and they did provide a partial refund to make up for the inconvenience even though they had already given me a decent discount when I made the order. They were also much quicker to respond in the last few days.
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Sounds like you got a bargain in the end for your troubles.
 
snerkler said:
In situations like this you need the tracking as "sticky" as possible to stop it from picking up something that crosses the subject's path. I believe this is 1 on the sensitivity.
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Just a question on these focus stickiness levels.

If level one is the stickiest why would anyone use a less sticky setting? Are there instances when less sticky is good?
 
Ken Rockwell has posted an interesting piece on the Nikon AI-AI-S 58mm f1.2 and pricing...

www.kenrockwell.com

Nikon Noct-NIKKOR 58mm f/1.2 Review & Sample Images by Ken Rockwell

Nikon Noct-NIKKOR 58mm f/1.2 Review & Sample Images by Ken Rockwell
www.kenrockwell.com

I have 4 Nikon 50mm's but sadly not one of those. I have looked at the 50mm f1.2 lots of times and it's available new at a fraction of the price those 58mm's are going for.
 
snerkler said:
I don't know how it works either, however you can do 30s exposure with the electronic shutter so I would expect the shutter is open just like mechanical and then it scans as fast as possible at the end to close the shutter. I can't see how it would be a very slow scan as this could introduce motion artefacts?
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I'm sure that motion artefacts is something that's been mentioned before when using electronic shutter for longer exposure. This could be another reason why no bulb?
 
snerkler said:
I don't know how it works either, however you can do 30s exposure with the electronic shutter so I would expect the shutter is open just like mechanical and then it scans as fast as possible at the end to close the shutter. I can't see how it would be a very slow scan as this could introduce motion artefacts?
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Would it not just scan slower at an appropriate speed so that it takes 30 seconds to complete the whole shutter scan? Whereas with bulb it won't know when to stop, so how would it know how slow to scan?

I think!? Lol
 
gman said:
I'm sure that motion artefacts is something that's been mentioned before when using electronic shutter for longer exposure. This could be another reason why no bulb?
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gman said:
Would it not just scan slower at an appropriate speed so that it takes 30 seconds to complete the whole shutter scan? Whereas with bulb it won't know when to stop, so how would it know how slow to scan?

I think!? Lol
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I don't know TBH. Motion is always an issue with slow shutter, but I was wondering more rolling shutter type artefacts? But as nandbytes mentioned it can do 30s so why not 60s or 1 min?
 
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gman said:
Would it not just scan slower at an appropriate speed so that it takes 30 seconds to complete the whole shutter scan? Whereas with bulb it won't know when to stop, so how would it know how slow to scan?
I think!? Lol
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snerkler said:
I don't know TBH. Motion is always an issue with slow shutter, but I was wondering more rolling shutter type artefacts? But as nandbytes mentioned it can do 30s so why not 60s or 1 min?
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Further to what I put up in the thread earlier, in a normal electronic rolling shutter sensor you couldn't do a 30 second readout easily as lines are automatically read out while others are acquiring, therefore some will have completed, while others are only just starting, and your 30 second exposure will be much longer in elapsed time - though in theory each row will only be exposed for 30 sec

In a stacked sensor, the readout of each rolling line is done very quickly into the next level of the stack, allowing the fast frame rates, this must run as a repeated process and effectively the integration of the image is taking place within this next level in the stack. When the image has been completed this stack levbel can be read out.

There must be some kind of limitation internally on how long (or how many) images can be integrated for. I don't know what this limitation is, it may be purely firmware in that Sony just don't expect someone to use the electronic rolling shutter in this way, it may be physical, we don't know how fast the readout is from the sensor into the stack, and maybe it runs very quickly and always integrates, even if its doing a 1/2sec exposure, maybe there is a heat build up issue on the sensor/stack, when its run in this mode which might cause a hot pixel type effect.

With the mechanical shutter the sensor will be exposed for the duration, and then the data read into the stack, and then onwards, ie one one stack mnovement operation.


@snerkler its not often that Llyn Idwal is that still, usually it blowing a gale up there, if you go again and its still, there is nice reflection shot from the other side of the lake than yours with Pen-yr-olen-wen in the background (the pyramid shaped mountain)
 
Mr Perceptive said:
Further to what I put up in the thread earlier, in a normal electronic rolling shutter sensor you couldn't do a 30 second readout easily as lines are automatically read out while others are acquiring, therefore some will have completed, while others are only just starting, and your 30 second exposure will be much longer in elapsed time - though in theory each row will only be exposed for 30 sec

In a stacked sensor, the readout of each rolling line is done very quickly into the next level of the stack, allowing the fast frame rates, this must run as a repeated process and effectively the integration of the image is taking place within this next level in the stack. When the image has been completed this stack levbel can be read out.

There must be some kind of limitation internally on how long (or how many) images can be integrated for. I don't know what this limitation is, it may be purely firmware in that Sony just don't expect someone to use the electronic rolling shutter in this way, it may be physical, we don't know how fast the readout is from the sensor into the stack, and maybe it runs very quickly and always integrates, even if its doing a 1/2sec exposure, maybe there is a heat build up issue on the sensor/stack, when its run in this mode which might cause a hot pixel type effect.

With the mechanical shutter the sensor will be exposed for the duration, and then the data read into the stack, and then onwards, ie one one stack mnovement operation.
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having read all this I am wondering now if there is any downside to using electronic shutter with long exposures? :thinking:
with heat build up and hot pixels will the noise be worst or will it ruin night time astro shots?
though in my recent outing it didn't seem to have done any of that....
 
nandbytes said:
having read all this I am wondering now if there is any downside to using electronic shutter with long exposures? :thinking:
with heat build up and hot pixels will the noise be worst or will it ruin night time astro shots?
though in my recent outing it didn't seem to have done any of that....
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Naive question, why do want to use ES and not MS for long exposure, what benefits do you think there are?

If hot pixels were likely to be an issue with the limitations that Sony have set, then there would be different limitations.
 
woof woof said:
Just a question on these focus stickiness levels.

If level one is the stickiest why would anyone use a less sticky setting? Are there instances when less sticky is good?
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1 sticky Is good if something is likely to be between the camera position and the subject i.e say a car passing behind a lamp post or a bird flying behind branches it delays the time the camera try's to re focus 5 fast would grab the post or branch .
I normally stay on 4 or 5 for birding and hope my skill is up to re acquiring the bird as to me the camera is then working as fast as it can.

Rob.
 
Mr Perceptive said:
Naive question, why do want to use ES and not MS for long exposure, what benefits do you think there are?

If hot pixels were likely to be an issue with the limitations that Sony have set, then there would be different limitations.
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no shutter shock though with EFCS that's not really an issue anyway. the main benefit is one less thing to change on the field, no sound etc.
tbh mechanical shutter isn't that loud on the A1 anyway.

It's mainly to avoid changing settings at this point and simply use electronic shutter everywhere.
Now that I can even use flash with electronic shutter there really is almost no need to use mechanical shutter (only times I can think of is bulb mode and needing 1/400-500s flash sync both of which are a rarity for me).
 
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nandbytes said:
no shutter shock though with EFCS that's not really an issue anyway. the main benefit is one less thing to change on the field, no sound etc.
tbh mechanical shutter isn't that loud on the A1 anyway.

It's mainly to avoid changing settings at this point and simply use electronic shutter everywhere.
Now that I can even use flash with electronic shutter there really is almost no need to use mechanical shutter (only times I can think of is bulb mode and needing 1/400-500s flash sync both of which are a rarity for me).
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I can understand that, but if you want best image quality then the (rolling) electronic shutter is potentially a compromise as the sensor rows are not all exposed at the same time.

(I know Sony have minimised rolling shutter effects, and easier to do with stacked sensor with faster readout, but they will be there in some scenarios)
 
Mr Perceptive said:
I can understand that, but if you want best image quality then the (rolling) electronic shutter is potentially a compromise as the sensor rows are not all exposed at the same time.

(I know Sony have minimised rolling shutter effects, and easier to do with stacked sensor with faster readout, but they will be there in some scenarios)
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are you suggesting there will rolling shutter effect when shooting long exposures? (I am not double guessing you just confirming what you meant to say)
for shooting action i.e. with high shutter speeds using electronic shutter I have seen no issue with rolling shutter on the A1 at least.
 
nandbytes said:
are you suggesting there will rolling shutter effect when shooting long exposures? (I am not double guessing you just confirming what you mean to say)
for shooting action i.e. with high shutter speeds using electronic shutter I have seen no issue with rolling shutter on the A1 at least.
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No not suggesting that, but at some point with higher shutter speeds, a particular speed, a particular movement of target or object in frame, a particular refresh rate of external lighting, there will be 'an effect' - Sony though have done an excellent job with their A1 and its stacked sensor, and in a way have set the benchmark very high for anyone wanting to introduce a global shutter.

With regard to Long Exposures, I can't see any deterimental effect, though maybe a faster moving object (not a star!) in an Astro shot might cause an issue.

Me I prefer to use MS whenever possible, but thats my choice (and as you know I don't have a Sony - apart from a ZV1)

Vitually all my work (industrial machine vision) cameras are global electronic shutter these days with only a few specialist cameras still being rolling shutter (some heat sensitive cameras etc), but as they are plugged in power is not an issue, and as they are for industrial environments, they can sprout heatsinks and get the heat away. https://www.teledynedalsa.com/en/products/imaging/cameras/falcon4-clhs/ not pretty but functional!
 
I'm sure I've read that using electronic shutter does mean slightly more noise, but I don't have a link at the moment.
 
gman said:
I'm sure I've read that using electronic shutter does mean slightly more noise, but I don't have a link at the moment.
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depends on the body.
On A9 or A9ii its barely noticeable.
On A1 you can even get full 14-bit RAW too with ES. So there is supposed to be no difference.
 
Mr Perceptive said:
@snerkler its not often that Llyn Idwal is that still, usually it blowing a gale up there, if you go again and its still, there is nice reflection shot from the other side of the lake than yours with Pen-yr-olen-wen in the background (the pyramid shaped mountain)
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Thanks, the light wasn't great in that direction at the time we went and would have resulted in a very poor contrasty image.
Merlin5 said:
Excellent reflections. My favourites are 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6. :D
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Thanks :)
 
Completely out of touch with zooms, but I’m after a constant 2.8 24-70 type lens. What’s best value these days?
 
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T_J_G said:
Completely out of touch with zooms, but I’m after a constant 2.8 24-70 type lens. What’s best value these days?
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Sigma 24-70/2.8 DN

If you want a smaller/cheaper package and don't mind 28mm start either tamron 28-75mm f2.8 or sigma 28-70mm f2.8 DN.

And if you want 20/30fps shooting with A9/1 series then Sony 24-70mm f2.8 GM
 
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nandbytes said:
Another glowing review for samyang 24mm f1.8

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PvWBV6CIspY


Seems to be an excellent lens.
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Nice. Good for full frame cameras, seems like an excellent lens with a couple of cool features, the option to change aperture on the lens ring and the little light to display infinity.

For aps-c though, I'll stick with my Sigma 16mm F.4 which gives me 24mm and F2.1 equivalent at it's widest aperture, whereas the Samyang would give me effectively 36mm and F2.7 equivalent. And the Samyang costs quite a bit more.
 
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T_J_G said:
Completely out of touch with zooms, but I’m after a constant 2.8 24-70 type lens. What’s best value these days?
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I don’t use it very much but I have been really happy with the Tamron although it’s 28-75mm. I like the fact it weighs next to nothing and is small considering it’s a lens I don’t use a lot. It’s very sharp and a.f speed is pretty good. They are also relatively cheap so excellent value for money.

I take it you want this for video though, not really sure what the best option is there none of the video guys I know use zoom lenses so not sure how they perform in terms of focus breathing etc.
 
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Right enough is enough I’ve held out this long but Friday I’m ordering the A1 NOW begs the choice at what Lens to buy.
I was going with 100-400 and 24-105 BUT wife wants some items for the garden so I may succumb to her wants and not buy as many G/GM glass for now but wanted to ask a QQ I know if I use sigma or Tamron it locks the FPS to 15 think this was the same for the A9 but if you my team of advisors were to get 1 GM/G lens then fill your pockets with cheaper glass where would you go
I have been thinking maybe drop the 100-400 and go with the F4 200 as I shoot motorsport and 200 does work for where I go, then maybe get a sigma 24-70 any views

and last but not least don’t shoot me, I know a 5k body should have the best glass but any of you tested Samyang primes on it I was thinking of getting maybe a wide one and a portrait one till my next bonus arrives next month then I’ll bag some more GM

on my last R3 I ran the 24-70 GM which I snapped and the 28mm f2 as well as other adapted lens etc like canon and Minolta MD

thanks all
 
littleted said:
Right enough is enough I’ve held out this long but Friday I’m ordering the A1 NOW begs the choice at what Lens to buy.
I was going with 100-400 and 24-105 BUT wife wants some items for the garden so I may succumb to her wants and not buy as many G/GM glass for now but wanted to ask a QQ I know if I use sigma or Tamron it locks the FPS to 15 think this was the same for the A9 but if you my team of advisors were to get 1 GM/G lens then fill your pockets with cheaper glass where would you go
I have been thinking maybe drop the 100-400 and go with the F4 200 as I shoot motorsport and 200 does work for where I go, then maybe get a sigma 24-70 any views

and last but not least don’t shoot me, I know a 5k body should have the best glass but any of you tested Samyang primes on it I was thinking of getting maybe a wide one and a portrait one till my next bonus arrives next month then I’ll bag some more GM

on my last R3 I ran the 24-70 GM which I snapped and the 28mm f2 as well as other adapted lens etc like canon and Minolta MD

thanks all
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If I were to provide sensible non-GAS advice then it'd be to buy once and save your pennies till you can buy the lens you really want.

The 70-200mm f4 also doesn't officially support 20/30fps either but there are reports that it gets close.
Personally I'd pick tamron 70-180mm f2.8 over the Sony 70-200mm f4. It's a better lens in almost everyway IMO.

If 100-400mm is really what your want you should really buy that IMO. Then save a bit more till you can get your next lens.

The tamron 28-200mm is actually rather good do it all lens. Gives Sony 24-105 f4 a run for is money. You could buy this lens and then use your money on some decent primes.
All depends on your priorities.

Samyang primes are good but some are better than others. If we knew the focal lengths you are after we could advice better.
 
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nandbytes said:
If I were to provide sensible non-GAS advice then it'd be to buy once and save your pennies till you can buy the lens you really want.

The 70-200mm f4 also doesn't officially support 20/30fps either but there are reports that it gets close.
Personally I'd pick tamron 70-180mm f2.8 over the Sony 70-200mm f4. It's a better lens in almost everyway IMO.

If 100-400mm is really what your want you should really buy that IMO. Then save a bit more till you can get your next lens.

The tamron 28-200mm is actually rather good do it all lens. Gives Sony 24-105 f4 a run for is money. You could buy this lens and then use your money on some decent primes.
All depends on your priorities.

Samyang primes are good but some are better than others. If we knew the focal lengths you are after we could advice better.
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Ok your advice is good I will get the 100-400 as my first GM
Prime wise I’d like

Landscape
Portrait
Genwalkabout

I suppose if I go100-400 with a 35mm prime it would cover most bases for now, the Sony 35 looks ok but happy to be steered away should sigma etc do a better one same ballpark cost wise

I will then fill the wide end with the 16-35GM when funds allow and the 85 F1.8 for the model shoots I did look at the F1.4 but I’m skeptical it’s massively better vs cost, I also liked the 50mm F1.2 but let’s be honest I like them all LOL. I’ll check out the approved A1 lens list see what on it

thanks again

I did get an entire collection of M4/3 primes 2 weeks ago all the pro glass and Voightlanders due to a friend passing away, so in the interim I’ll dust off the G9 and save up
 
littleted said:
Ok your advice is good I will get the 100-400 as my first GM
Prime wise I’d like

Landscape
Portrait
Genwalkabout

I suppose if I go100-400 with a 35mm prime it would cover most bases for now, the Sony 35 looks ok but happy to be steered away should sigma etc do a better one same ballpark cost wise

I will then fill the wide end with the 16-35GM when funds allow and the 85 F1.8 for the model shoots I did look at the F1.4 but I’m skeptical it’s massively better vs cost, I also liked the 50mm F1.2 but let’s be honest I like them all LOL. I’ll check out the approved A1 lens list see what on it

thanks again

I did get an entire collection of M4/3 primes 2 weeks ago all the pro glass and Voightlanders due to a friend passing away, so in the interim I’ll dust off the G9 and save up
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Only if the had checked up yesterday. You missed good deals on Amazon prime day on both 35mm f1.8 and 85mm f1.8.

Most 35mm options are good, they all have thier pro and cons. Just avoid Sony Zeiss 35mm F1.4

Sorry to hear about your friend :(
 
littleted said:
Ok your advice is good I will get the 100-400 as my first GM
Prime wise I’d like

Landscape
Portrait
Genwalkabout

I suppose if I go100-400 with a 35mm prime it would cover most bases for now, the Sony 35 looks ok but happy to be steered away should sigma etc do a better one same ballpark cost wise

I will then fill the wide end with the 16-35GM when funds allow and the 85 F1.8 for the model shoots I did look at the F1.4 but I’m skeptical it’s massively better vs cost, I also liked the 50mm F1.2 but let’s be honest I like them all LOL. I’ll check out the approved A1 lens list see what on it

thanks again

I did get an entire collection of M4/3 primes 2 weeks ago all the pro glass and Voightlanders due to a friend passing away, so in the interim I’ll dust off the G9 and save up
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The 100-400mm GM is a great lens, I use this along with the Tamron 70-180mm f2.8 for motorsport.

I tend to use zooms for landscapes and have been very happy with the 16-35mm f4. I just picked up a new 24-105mm f4 for £350 (after cash back) and that’s really impressed me in terms of sharpness across the frame.

I’ve used the Samyang 18mm f2.8 and 24mm f2.8 and both had very good image quality. The Sony Zeiss 35mm f2.8 is also very good.

Sorry to hear of the passing of your friend.
 
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