The Amazing Sony A1/A7/A9/APS-C & Anything else welcome Mega Thread!

[gman]

Bit of a random question, but how noticeable would 2 stops of dynamic range be in general?

I'm thinking perhaps more specifically the difference between ISO12800 @ 9.38Ev and ISO1600 @ 11.56Ev. Ignoring the noise (although still a consideration), I'm only thinking about the dynamic range element.

 

[snerkler]

I would prefer no aperture rings I find them a pain as not all my lenses have them I don’t use them. I have taped the rings down on all my GM lenses to stop them from getting knocked.

Don’t the aperture rings have a lock like the Sigma?

 

[woof woof]

Don’t the aperture rings have a lock like the Sigma?

The 20mm f1.8 doesn't have a physical lock as such... you just move it a bit further and it sort of drops or pops into the "lock" position. When you want to move it again you just move it again. If all that makes sense. Older lenses I've had had a physical switch / lock which you slid / switched to set the lens to auto or min aperture or whatever and this prevented accidental movement until you unlocked the mechanism again but these new lenses don't seem to. When locked the ring is less likely to move but given enough friction there's no physical lock to stop the ring moving. If that makes sense.

 

[nandbytes]

I would prefer no aperture rings I find them a pain as not all my lenses have them I don’t use them. I have taped the rings down on all my GM lenses to stop them from getting knocked.

hence I wish all lens would have them
but sigma have started putting an aperture lock switch on their lenses (at least the 85 DN has it).

 

[nandbytes]

Don’t the aperture rings have a lock like the Sigma?

not on sony GM lenses. some lenses have a little resistance between A and f16 so its not easily knocked back but not all of them.

 

[snerkler]

not on sony GM lenses. some lenses have a little resistance between A and f16 so its not easily knocked back but not all of them.

Sony seem to do this a lot, it’s like the 100-400mm. I wish that had a lock and for a £2k lens it should have one imo.

 

[Raymond Lin]

not on sony GM lenses. some lenses have a little resistance between A and f16 so its not easily knocked back but not all of them.

I have learn the lesson the hard way that never use that A on the aperture ring and hope I never knock it. Because if you do accidentally knock it, you are at F/1.8 or F/2.8 at most had you always have it at F/1.4.

Knock it from A, you are at F/16 or F/11.

The latter is much more problematic.

 

[GyRob]

Not sure if this is the best thread to ask in or not but does anybody here have an Sony a1 yet?
I'm currently selling my other camera bodies and putting the money from those towards an a1 so was after some comments from someone with first hand experience.

I've had it a couple of weeks now and very happy with it - it is a good upgrade to the a9mkII a little faster more accurate AF and MPs for bird cropping .
Rob.

 

[woof woof]

One plus for aperture rings is that they mitigate one criticism I have of the A7c and would enable me to change both the aperture and the shutter speed without having to use the back wheel.

 

[snerkler]

I've had it a couple of weeks now and very happy with it - it is a good upgrade to the a9mkII a little faster more accurate AF and MPs for bird cropping .
Rob.

Is that even possible?

 

[rob-nikon]

So Guys, I was advised to post in here rather than start a separate thread. I am after another lens but am having issues deciding... I started last week wanting more reach so looked at the 200-600mm, then watching the reviews on YouTube they started comparing with the 100-400... Argggh. Then fast forward to this week and I'm also looking at a 135mm lens.

I'm leaning towards the 100-400 and MPB have one reserved for me after I traded my final Fuji Lenses to concentrate on one system. I suppose my pondering is because I've never purchased from them before. I want something with a little reach to capture the wee birds and as I live in Newmarket I want to try and take some Horse pictures. I'm presuming I need something with reach as I don't want to spook them. Any advise would be welcome, I need to purchase something before 1st April as the money currently burning a hole in my pocket will be directed somewhere else if not.

The 200-600 and 100-400 debate really depends on each users specific need.

Need 600mm and don’t care about weight/size = 200-600

Need nearly 600mm and care about weight/size = 100-400 + 1.4TC

Need between 200mm - 400mm and don’t care about weight/size = 200-600 (400-600mm is a bonus)

Need between 200mm - 400mm and care about weight/size = 100-400 (100-200mm is a bonus).


For me the choice was easy as the 200-600 didn’t exist when I bought the 100-400! I’ve thought about getting the 200-600 but for me it doesn’t make sense as the main reason I moved to Sony was a drive to lower weight and size. For me the 100-400 is perfect as I went from an XL ICU to a Small ICU (that size difference is huge). It’s also meant I mainly use a travel tripod for supporting the lenses or even hand hold it so even less weight. I mainly do bigger wildlife so 400mm is plenty. There are times I’d like a slightly longer reach but not enough to buy the 200-600 or a teleconverter. If they did a teleconverter that can be flipped on and off I’d get one and have it permanently attach to the 100-400. I just cant be doing with the faff of taking one on and off or the larger weight of the 200-600.

Have you been down to the paddocks to see how far the horses would be away? It depends how close you can get. I went to Burleigh horse trials once and was photos at 24mm from the bottom of the fence whilst they thundered past only 2-3m away. Made sure I didn’t move and spook them as they went pass. A friend of mine took some horse photos for people and used a 70-200 from inside the paddock.

For small birds the 200-600mm would be better as you need the reach.

 

[nandbytes]

I have learn the lesson the hard way that never use that A on the aperture ring and hope I never knock it. Because if you do accidentally knock it, you are at F/1.8 or F/2.8 at most had you always have it at F/1.4.

Knock it from A, you are at F/16 or F/11.

The latter is much more problematic.

if the lens got knocked to f/16 or f/11 I'd definitely notice the DoF and lack of light.
I wouldn't notice the knock from f1.4 to f1.8 or f2 as easily.

having said all that I always use the aperture ring when its available. I have got it into muscle memory to reset the ring to f1.4 (or widest aperture) as soon as it's mounted or as soon as I turn on the body.
Once I start using it, I have never mistakenly changed the aperture during operation.

 

[snerkler]

if the lens got knocked to f/16 or f/11 I'd definitely notice the DoF and lack of light.
I wouldn't notice the knock from f1.4 to f1.8 or f2 as easily.

having said all that I always use the aperture ring when its available. I have got it into muscle memory to reset the ring to f1.4 (or widest aperture) as soon as it's mounted or as soon as I turn on the body.
Once I start using it, I have never mistakenly changed the aperture during operation.

Having a lock fitted (and a zoom lock on the 100-400mm) seems like such an easy thing to add though

 

[robj20]

Not knocked mine yet either and I stuff my camera in my pocket a lot of the time. It's got just enough resistance, what gets me is it's exactly where i instinctively go to hold it to mount or remove the men's.

 

[nandbytes]

Having a lock fitted (and a zoom lock on the 100-400mm) seems like such an easy thing to add though

yes of course, not rocket science especially for Sony!

 

[Raymond Lin]

if the lens got knocked to f/16 or f/11 I'd definitely notice the DoF and lack of light.
I wouldn't notice the knock from f1.4 to f1.8 or f2 as easily.

having said all that I always use the aperture ring when its available. I have got it into muscle memory to reset the ring to f1.4 (or widest aperture) as soon as it's mounted or as soon as I turn on the body.
Once I start using it, I have never mistakenly changed the aperture during operation.

Sure, if you are shooting landscape or anything slow.

If you are shooting weddings and it's moment to moment. A camera on each shoulder, different lens each. You drop one and pick up the other and continue to shoot, I expect it to be ready in the same setting when i lift it to my eye. If it went to F/16, and even if I notice it and then turn it, the moment is gone.

 

[Stephen L]

Sure, if you are shooting landscape or anything slow.

If you are shooting weddings and it's moment to moment. A camera on each shoulder, different lens each. You drop one and pick up the other and continue to shoot, I expect it to be ready in the same setting when i lift it to my eye. If it went to F/16, and even if I notice it and then turn it, the moment is gone.

How did you manage in the old days of film? Besides, that scenario is as likely to happen if the aperture is set on the body.

 

[Mike.P]

Anyone know where I can download some A9/A9II raw files from? Looking for shots taken with the 200-600mm if possible and ideally wildlife that needs some major cropping.

 

[woof woof]

Bit of a random question, but how noticeable would 2 stops of dynamic range be in general?

I'm thinking perhaps more specifically the difference between ISO12800 @ 9.38Ev and ISO1600 @ 11.56Ev. Ignoring the noise (although still a consideration), I'm only thinking about the dynamic range element.

Any increase in DR would be lovely, obviously and especially when there is both bright areas and deep shadows in the frame. I've posted a lot of pictures of my walk to the shops along a track with trees and bushes on each side, add a low in the sky northern sun and the implications for capturing the wide DR are pretty obvious. At higher ISO's it's much less of an issue for me.

 

[nandbytes]

Sure, if you are shooting landscape or anything slow.

If you are shooting weddings and it's moment to moment. A camera on each shoulder, different lens each. You drop one and pick up the other and continue to shoot, I expect it to be ready in the same setting when i lift it to my eye. If it went to F/16, and even if I notice it and then turn it, the moment is gone.

You are not the first one that's pointed this out to me. I appreciate it can be a problem for professionals.

Seeing that this causes problems for many professionals, Sony should introduce a switch on future models like sigma have started doing.

 

[woof woof]

You are not the first one that's pointed this out to me. I appreciate it can be a problem for professionals.

Seeing that this causes problems for many professionals, Sony should introduce a switch on future models like sigma have started doing.

I wonder what the instances are for the lens aperture ring being knocked v the aperture dial on the camera being knocked.

 

[Raymond Lin]

How did you manage in the old days of film? Besides, that scenario is as likely to happen if the aperture is set on the body.

Perhaps it was why they got rid of it for 30 years during the SLR/DSLR from the 80's? The entire EOS line don't have it.

DSLR got round that problem by not having an aperture ring at all, I did fine with dials on the body. I am happy for them to remove it completely, for me they make the camera to be a 2 hand operation, unless you set it to A and lock...which then comes with knocking it out of position, and then you need 2 hands to fix it.

This was never a problem in the EOS era...I blame Fuji, and the "I want to see all the settings as dials" crowd. Lasted like a few years and then they put a screen back in the X-H1/new Nikon and R5 etc and people loved it and then they love the screen on the high end camera again. Rather than seeing all the settings on 1 single screen, you are now looking all over the camera at different places to check.

 

[ancient_mariner]

I have the 55mm f1.8 and I'm sure I can see those extra 5mm. It may be all in my mind but that's how it seems so I could be interested in a new 50mm f1.8 but the old one never interested me because of reports of issues with the focus. The 50mm f2.8 macro I had for a day was also critised for focus and hunting in some reviews and it was just unusable as an AF lens on my old A7 and that experience has put me off anything where hunting or any other focus issue is even hinted at.

If this new one has a decent focus system not a crappy cost cutting one that probably wont work on my A7 I could be interested.

The 55 is not an ordinary 50, hence I ignored it. I'd be happy with the standard 50 optics with a functional focus system.

 

[snerkler]

Anyone know where I can download some A9/A9II raw files from? Looking for shots taken with the 200-600mm if possible and ideally wildlife that needs some major cropping.

There are raw samples online but not taken with the 200-600mm that I’m aware of. Might be worth looking on Jared’s site/YT channel as he often shares the raws.

 

[G.K.Jnr.]

Just a simple tourist type Snapograph taken off the Kent Coast UK of one of the Border Force boats/ships that patrol the channel.

RX10M4, 1/320 @ F4.5, ISO-100, Handheld.
Border Force (1)-03514 by G.K.Jnr., on Flickr

for looking.,

 

[snerkler]

Just a simple tourist type Snapograph taken off the Kent Coast UK of one of the Border Force boats/ships that patrol the channel.

RX10M4, 1/320 @ F4.5, ISO-100, Handheld.
Border Force (1)-03514 by G.K.Jnr., on Flickr

for looking.,

I’m going to say it one last time, I really do like your B&W processing

 

[G.K.Jnr.]

I’m going to say it one last time, I really do like your B&W processing

Thank you Toby, appreciate your reply.

"Honestly matey I do nothing special, everything is done in "Affinity Photo" manually without any presets. I just mess about with various sliders until it looks about right to me on the screen and that's it job done. I'm not ruled by the histogram etc and more often than not I tend to think & operate outside the box as they say"

 

[f/1.2]

Sure, if you are shooting landscape or anything slow.

If you are shooting weddings and it's moment to moment. A camera on each shoulder, different lens each. You drop one and pick up the other and continue to shoot, I expect it to be ready in the same setting when i lift it to my eye. If it went to F/16, and even if I notice it and then turn it, the moment is gone.

This is why I stuck a little bit of tape on the back of mine to hold the aperture ring.

 

[gman]

Hey Tommy, how are you finding the Sony 35mm f/1.4?

I almost bought the Sigma 35mm 1.2 last night, but there's a niggling feeling that the size will put me off taking the camera out more often than not. Size was a big factor with me shifting from the D750 to the Sony CSC.

When looking at a comparison between the Sigma and the Sony, a 1/3 of a stop for all that bulk doesn't seem logical. With the Sony I'm still getting 3 stops extra over my current f/4 lens, which I figure can be important noise and dynamic range benefits under certain circumstances. Also, the Sony seems to have nicer shaped bokeh and less corrections needed. I can't hardly see the difference between 1.2 and 1.4 anyway.

A used Sigma will be £1,058, but a brand new Sony from Panamoz is only £322 more, which isn't much considering the above (or should I wait until WEX have it in stock?).

 

[snerkler]

Hey Tommy, how are you finding the Sony 35mm f/1.4?

I almost bought the Sigma 35mm 1.2 last night, but there's a niggling feeling that the size will put me off taking the camera out more often than not. Size was a big factor with me shifting from the D750 to the Sony CSC.

When looking at a comparison between the Sigma and the Sony, a 1/3 of a stop for all that bulk doesn't seem logical. With the Sony I'm still getting 3 stops extra over my current f/4 lens, which I figure can be important noise and dynamic range benefits under certain circumstances. Also, the Sony seems to have nicer shaped bokeh and less corrections needed. I can't hardly see the difference between 1.2 and 1.4 anyway.

A used Sigma will be £1,058, but a brand new Sony from Panamoz is only £322 more, which isn't much considering the above (or should I wait until WEX have it in stock?).

I don't think I can see a difference between f1.2 and f1.4 either.

 

[Merlin5]

Just a simple tourist type Snapograph taken off the Kent Coast UK of one of the Border Force boats/ships that patrol the channel.

RX10M4, 1/320 @ F4.5, ISO-100, Handheld.
Border Force (1)-03514 by G.K.Jnr., on Flickr

for looking.,

That's a great photo, George. I agree with snerkler, excellent black and white.

 

[gman]

I don't think I can see a difference between f1.2 and f1.4 either.

It was this article in particular I looked at. The Sony bokeh at 1.4 actually looks nicer to me than the Sigma's 1.2

I suppose now the big question is to Panamoz or not to Panamoz? I've never used them before, so I don't know how they handle import taxes - unless they are using a UK distribution facility or sorts?

 

[G.K.Jnr.]

That's a great photo, George. I agree with snerkler, excellent black and white.

Thank you Lee, appreciate your reply.

 

[nandbytes]

It was this article in particular I looked at. The Sony bokeh at 1.4 actually looks nicer to me than the Sigma's 1.2

I suppose now the big question is to Panamoz or not to Panamoz? I've never used them before, so I don't know how they handle import taxes - unless they are using a UK distribution facility or sorts?

They "handle" import tax by dodging it. And yes it's illegal.

Still waiting for my pre-order
So it might take a while before you get it
But depending on what the new rumoured 40mm turns out to be, I might sell the 35GM

 

[ancient_mariner]

Bit of a random question, but how noticeable would 2 stops of dynamic range be in general?

I'm thinking perhaps more specifically the difference between ISO12800 @ 9.38Ev and ISO1600 @ 11.56Ev. Ignoring the noise (although still a consideration), I'm only thinking about the dynamic range element.

If you have a scene that doesn't go too far away from mid-tones then you'll never notice, but if you've a lot of highlights & shadows then your images will have a nice 'vintage digital' look to them. I'd say 2 stops is quite a lot to lose TBH.

 

[gman]

They "handle" import tax by dodging it. And yes it's illegal.

Still waiting for my pre-order
So it might take a while before you get it
But depending on what the new rumoured 40mm turns out to be, I might sell the 35GM

Ah, I wasn't sure if they had some legal loophole. I guess that the "showing in stock" on their website may not be true then. For a little over £100 compared to WEX it doesn't seem overly appealing all things considered, I might just wait for UK stock to come in.

 

[gman]

If you have a scene that doesn't go too far away from mid-tones then you'll never notice, but if you've a lot of highlights & shadows then your images will have a nice 'vintage digital' look to them. I'd say 2 stops is quite a lot to lose TBH.

Thanks, I'm going through various thought processes in my head and this was one of them. I've now settled on the Sony 35mm f/1.4 GM and it's now just a case of finding one.

 

[f/1.2]

Hey Tommy, how are you finding the Sony 35mm f/1.4?

I almost bought the Sigma 35mm 1.2 last night, but there's a niggling feeling that the size will put me off taking the camera out more often than not. Size was a big factor with me shifting from the D750 to the Sony CSC.

When looking at a comparison between the Sigma and the Sony, a 1/3 of a stop for all that bulk doesn't seem logical. With the Sony I'm still getting 3 stops extra over my current f/4 lens, which I figure can be important noise and dynamic range benefits under certain circumstances. Also, the Sony seems to have nicer shaped bokeh and less corrections needed. I can't hardly see the difference between 1.2 and 1.4 anyway.

A used Sigma will be £1,058, but a brand new Sony from Panamoz is only £322 more, which isn't much considering the above (or should I wait until WEX have it in stock?).

It is ridiculously good I used it a fair bit on a commercial shoot today. Best 35mm I have ever used.

 

[LeeRatters]

Thanks, I'm going through various thought processes in my head and this was one of them. I've now settled on the Sony 35mm f/1.4 GM and it's now just a case of finding one.

Might be better off to phone shops if possible regarding availability. I pre-ordered on the 16th January. I'm 4th on the list with Clifton Cameras.

 

[mav]

Anyone know where I can download some A9/A9II raw files from? Looking for shots taken with the 200-600mm if possible and ideally wildlife that needs some major cropping.

have a look at mark galers web site and youtube channel think he has tested the a1 with the 200-600